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NORTH  CAROLINA  STATE  UNIVERSITY 


S02842968 


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Siui>i-.MS  FKESsiNt.  Cheese. 


Cheese  Making 


CHEDDAR 

SWISS 

BRICK 

LIMBURGER 

EDAM 

COTTAGE 


BY 

JOHN    W.    DECKER 

PROFESSOR     OF     DAIRYING,    OHIO    STATE    UNIVERSITY  ;      INSTRUCTOR    IN 
DAIRYING,     UNIVERSITY     OF     WISCONSIN 

1890-1899 


ILLUSTRATED 


COLUMBUS.    OHIO 

PUBLISHED    BY    THE   AUTHOR 

1905^ 

ALL    RIGHTS    RESERVED 


COPYRIGHTED    BY 

JOHN    W.    DECKER 
1900 


PRESS     OF 

THE    BERLIN    PRINTING    COMPANY 

COLUMBUS,    OHIO 


TO 

STEPHEN  MOULTON  BABCOCK.  Ph.  D. 

CIIIKI-     i:H1  MIST    Ol      Till      WISCONSIN     EM'EKIMENT    STATION 

WHO,  AS   A  TEACHKK,  AND   LATKK  AS  A    CO-WOKKER,  BY    PATIENT    LABOK 

AND  WISE  COUNSEL,   INSIMKED  THE  AUTHOR  WITH    A 

GREATER   LOVE  KOR  THE  I'ROKESSION 

OK   DAIRYING, 

THIS    BOOK    IS     INSCRIBED 


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PREFACE 

The  American  dairy  school  is  of  recent  origin,  the  first  one 
having-  been  started  in  Wisconsin  in  1891. 

With  the  dairy  school  came  the  need  of  pedagogic  state- 
ments of  the  subjects  taught  therein. 

It  fell  to  the  lot  of  the  author  of  this  book  to  make  such  a 
statement  of  cheese  making.  His  first  attempt  was  printed  in 
1893  under  the  title  of  "Cheddar  Cheese  Making."  This  first 
attempt  met  with  an  encouraging  reception  and  was  translated 
into  the  French  language  by  Eniile  Castel  for  the  use  of  the 
Canadians  in  the  Province  of  Quebec.  A  second  and  revised 
edition  under  the  same  name  was  printed  in  1895.  In  1900  the 
book  was  again  revised  and  the  scope  enlarged  to  include  Swiss, 
Brick,  Limburger,  Edam  and  Cottage  cheese,  and  the  title 
changed  to  that  of  "Cheese  Making."  The  edition  printed  at 
that  time  is  now  exhausted  and  our  knowledge  of  the  subject 
has  increased,  requiring  a  number  of  important  changes  to  bring 
the  book  up  to  date. 

Because  of  their  relation  to  the  subject,  milk  testing,  and 
dairy  bacteriology  have  been  touched  upon  briefly.  An  ex- 
haustive treatment  has  not  been  necessary  as  there  are  text- 
books treating-  these  subjects. 

This  is  primarily  a  text-book  and  not  a  reference  volume. 
To  make  the  latter  out  of  it  would  make  it  unwieldly  for  the 
former  purpose.  An  analytical  index,  a  complete  table  of  con- 
tents, and  references  to  original  matter  will,  however,  assist 
the  busy  man,  student  or  instructor  to  look  up  references 
quickly  or  to  find  original  data. 

Columbus,  Ohio,  January  1,  1905. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Chapter  I. — The  Constitution  of  Milk. 

1.  Purpose  of  milk.  2.  Comoosition.  3.  Man's  use  of  milk.  4.  Al- 
buminoids. 5.  Casein.  6.  Albumen.  7.  Albumose.  8.  Ash.  9.  Milk 
sugar.  10.  Fat.  11.  In  emulsion.  12.  Creaming  of  milk.  13.  Effect 
of  fat  on  quality  of  cheese.  14.  Effect  of  fat  on  quantity  of  cheese. 
15.  Colostrum  milk.  16.  Curd.  17.  Whey.  18.  Composition  of  whey.~ 
19.  Losses  of  fat  in  whey.  20.  Whey  from  Swiss  cheese.  21.  Constitu- 
ents recovered  in  cheese. 
Chapter  II.— Secretion  and  Contamination  of  Milk. 

22.  Structure  of  the  udder.  23.  Secretion  of  the  milk.  24.  Time  of 
secretion.  25,  Cause  of  bad  flavors.  26.  From  food  eaten.  27.  Flavors; 
by  absorption.  28.  Bacterial  infection.  29.  Varieties  of  bacteria  in  milk. 
30.  How  milk  is  infected.  31.  The  Wisconsin  curd  test.  32.  Care  of 
milk.  33.  Aeration.  34.  Varieties  of  aerators.  35.  The  barn  air.  36. 
Keep  cows  clean.  37.  Cooling  the  milk.  38.  Covering  the  cans. 
39.  Kinds  of  utensils.  40.  Care  of  utensils.  41.  Factory  cleanliness. 
42.  Rubber  boots.  43.  Scrubbing  the  floor.  44.  Soaps.  45.  Scrubbing 
brushes.  46.  Towels.  47.  Watch  the  corners.  48.  Shelves  for  trinkets, 
49.  How  to  kill  moulds.  60.  Antiseptics.  61.  To  prevent  dust.  52. 
Factory  surroundings. 

Chapter  III. — Milk  Testing. 

53.  Rapid  progress.  54.  The  Babcock  test.  55.  The  bottle.  56  The 
pipette.  57.  The  acid  measure.  58.  The  centrifuge.  59.  To  make  the 
test.  60.  Strength  of  acid.  61.  Speed  of  the  centrifuge.  62.  Reading  the 
fat.  63.  Testing  cheese.  64.  Quevenne  lactometer.  65.  Board  of  health 
lactometer.  66.  Detecting  watered  milk.  67.  Composite  samples.  68. 
Milk  thief.  69.  Sample  jars  should  be  marked  to  prevent  mistakes. 
70.  Milk  samples,  how  preserved. 

Chapter  IV. — Enzymes. 

71.  Two  kinds  of  ferments.  72.  Galactase.  73.  Rennet  extract  and 
pepsin.  74.  Rennets,  how  preserved.  75.  How  rennet  extract  is  made. 
76.  Reliable  brands  to  be  preferred.  77.  Effect  of  heat  on  rennet.  78. 
Rennet  does  not  exhaust  itself.  79.  Effect  of  acidity  on  the  action  of 
rennet.     80.  Rennet  extracts  not  alike.     81.  Rennet  action  dependent  on 


X  Table  of  Contents. 

three  things.  82.  J.  B.  Harris  discovers  the  rennet  test.  83.  Rennet  a 
powerful  agent.  84.  Glass  graduates  for  measuring.  85.  The  Monrad 
rennet  test.  86.  Use  thermometer  to  stir  milk.  87.  The  Marschall 
rennet  test.  88.  How  to  use  the  test.  89.  Marschall  tests  not  alike. 
90.  Errors  to  be  avoided  with  Marschall  apparatus. 

Chapter  V. — The  Deportment  of  Rennet. 

91.  Experiments  in  rennet  action.  92.  Efifect  of  acid  and  alkali.  93. 
Effect  of  water  in  milk.  94.  The  effect  of  salt  (NaCl).  95.  The  effect 
of  temperature.  96.  Effect  of  Anaesthetics.  97.  Thermal  Destruction 
point.  98.  Efifect  of  strength  of  rennet  solution.  99.  Soluble  calcium 
salts  required  for  rennet  action.  100.  Effect  of  milk  preservatives. 
101.  Scale  pepsin  compared  with  rennet. 

Chapter  VI. — Cheddar  Cheese. 

102.  History  of  Cheddar  cheese.  103.  Rise  of  factory  system;  in 
New  York.  104.  In  Ohio.  105.  In  Wisconsin.  106.  Two  processes  of 
manufacture.  107.  Cheddar  system  proper.  108.  Test  for  over-ripe  milk. 
109.  Stir  milk  to  keep  cream  down.  110.  Ripening  the  milk.  111.  How 
to  ripen  milk  to  the  right  point.  112.  Definition  of  a  starter.  113.  What 
to  use  for  a  starter.  114.  Lactic  ferment  starter.  115.  What  not  to  use 
for  a  starter.  116.  Milk  must  not  be  too  ripe.  117.  Adding  the  color. 
118.  Setting  the  milk.  119.  Rennet  should  be  diluted.  120.  The  use  of 
pepsin.     121.  When  the  curd  is  ready  to  cut. 

Chapter  VII. — Cutting  and  Heating  the  Curd. 

122.  Firming  the  curd.  123.  How  to  cut  a  fast  working  curd.  124. 
Use  horizontal  curd-knife.  125.  How  to  insert  the  horizontal  knife. 
126.  How  to  take  the  knife  out.  127.  How  to  insert  the  perpendicular 
knife.  128.  Rapidity  of  stroke  a  factor.  129.  Keep  curd  moving.  130. 
When  to  begin  heating.  131.  Cooking  an  overripe  curd.  132.  Stirring 
the  curd.  133.  Curd  rakes.  134.  McPherson  curd  rake.  135.  How  to 
tell  a  proper  cook. 

Chapter    VIII. — Drawing    the    Whey — Dipping    and    Milling    the 
Curd. 

136.  Measuring  acid.  137.  Threads  due  to  acid.  138.  Use  of  acidi- 
meter.  139.  Result  of  too  much  acid.  140.  Curd  rack.  141.  Racks, 
how  used.  142.  Cutting  the  curd  into  blocks.  143.  Turning  the  curd. 
144.  Pin-holey  curds.  145.  Washing  curds.  146.  Use  of  a  curd  sink. 
147.  Proper  form  of  curd  sink.  148.  How  to  fill  the  curd  sink.  149.  Keep 
the  curd  warm.  150.  Piling  curds.  151.  When  a  curd  is  ready  to  mill. 
152.  Description  of  curd  mills.     153.  Pohl  mill.     154.  Whitlow  mill.     155. 


Table  of  Contents.  xi 

McPherson  mill.  156.  Gosselin  mill.  157.  The  Harris  mill.  158.  The 
Fuller  mill.  159.  The  Barnard  mill.  160.  The  Kasper  mill.  161.  Ad- 
vantages for  and  objections  to  knife  mills.  162.  Stirring  the  curd. 
163.  Time  to  mill.  164.  Effect  of  dry  acid.  165.  How  to  expel  gas.  166. 
Steaming  curds. 
Chapter  IX. — Salting  and  Pressing  the  Curd. 

167.  Condition  of  a  curd  for  salting.  168.  What  salt  is.  109.  Where 
salt  comes  from.  170.  Impurities  in  salt.  ITl.  What  salt  does  to  cheese. 
172.  Effect  of  too  much  salt.  173.  Curds  not  always  salted  the  same 
amount.  174.  Salt  should  be  evenly  distributed.  175.  Application  of 
salt.  176.  Temperature  for  salting.  177.  Conditions  of  salted  curd  for 
pressing.  178.  Removing  fat.  179.  Curd  must  not  be  too  warm. 
180.  Curd  must  not  be  too  cold.  181.  Common  packages  of  cheese. 
182.  Kinds  of  bandage  used.  183.  How  the  bandage  is  put  onto  the 
cheese.  184.  Cheese  must  be  the  same  size.  185.  Tighten  the  press 
slowly.  186.  Dressing  the  cheese.  187.  The  Wilson  hoop.  188.  How 
to  get  cheese  dry.  189.  Do  not  pound  the  hoops.  190.  Greasing  the 
cheese.  191.  Cracks  in  cheese.  192.  Cheese  in  cold  storage.  193.  Clean- 
ing mouldy  cheese.  194.  Cheese  cloth  circles.  195.  Press  cloths.  196. 
Keep  a  daily  record. 
Chapter  X. — Curing  and  Shipping  the  Cheese. 

197.  Changes  in  curing.  198.  Curing  at  different  temperatures.  199. 
Curing  shelves,  how  made.  200.  Arrangement  of  cheese.  201.  Moisture 
in  curing  room.  202.  The  Hygroscope.  203.  The  Psychrometer.  204. 
Condition  of  the  curing  room  air.  205.  Supplying  moisture.  206. 
Shrinkage  in  curing.  207.  Central  curing  rooms.  208.  Paraffining 
cheese.  209.  Cheese,  how  boxed.  210.  Scale  boards.  211.  How  cheese 
are  weighed.  212.  Marking  of  weights.  213.  Buyer's  stencil.  214.  How 
to  sell  cheese. 
Chapter  XI.— Judging  Cheese. 

215.  Ideal  cheese.  216,  Flavor.  217.  Texture.  218.  Salt.  219.  Color. 
220.  Gross  appearance.  221.  Wisconsin  factory  cheese  makers'  scale. 
222.  Corky  cheese.  223.  Hard,  crumbly  or  mealy  cheese.  224.  Weak 
bodied,  pasty  cheese.  225.  Cracked  cheese.  226.  Poison  cheese.  227. 
Rusty  spots  in  cheese. 
Chapter  XII.— Hints  on  the  Construction  and  Operation  of  Cheese 

Factories. 

228.  Independent  factories.  229.  Ontario  cheese  factories.  230.  Good 
foundations.  231.  Dimensions.  232.  Store  room.  233.  Curing  room. 
234.  Sills.     235.  Curing-room   floor.     236.  Vat-room   floor.     237.  Curing- 


xii  Table  of  Contents. 

room  walls.  238.  Doors  and  windows.  239.  Joists.  240.  Stone  cellar. 
241.  Curing  cellars.  242.  Cellar,  how  ventilated.  243.  Sub-earth  ducts. 
244.  Use  of  a  well.  245.*  Number  and  size  of  tiles.  246.  Water  motor 
fans  for  driving  air.  247.  Boiler  room.  248.  Building  should  be  raised. 
249.  Water  supply.  250.  Hot  water.  251.  Septic  tank.  252.  Sewer  trap. 
258.  Whey  tank,  how  built.  254.  Elevating  whey.  255.  Bath  room. 
256.  Equipment.  257.  Water  boxes  of  vats  should  be  lined.  258.  Curd 
sinks.  259.  Pressing  fiats.  260.  Sink,  how  made.  261.  Milk,  how  lifted. 
262.  Milk  testing.  263.  Appliances  needed.  264.  Curing  shelves.  265. 
Cost  of  factory. 

Chapter  XIII. — Organization  of  Cheese  Factory  Association. 

266.  Plans  of  operation.  267.  By-laws  for  a  cheese  factory  associa- 
tion. 268.  Test  committee.  269.  Quorum.  270.  Rates  for  making.  271. 
Figuring  dividends.     272.  Factory  statement. 

Chapter  XIV.— Swiss  Cheese — Its  Characteristics. 

273.  Sweet  curd  cheese.  274.  Switzer,  where  made.  275.  Descrip- 
tion of  Switzer  cheese.  276.  Determining  quality  of  cheese.  277.  Flavor. 
278.  Texture.  279.  Color.  280.  Grades  of  cheese.  281.  How  cheese  is 
tried. 

Chapter  XV. — Swiss  Cheese — From  Milk  to  Curing  Cellar. 

282.  Selection  of  the  milk.  283.  Cause  of  Glaesler  cheese.  284.  Ren- 
net test  should  be  used.  285.  Use  of  a  starter.  286.  Test  of  rennet 
solution  not  correct.  287.  Swiss  kettles.  288.  Filling  the  kettle.  289. 
Setting  the  milk.  290.  Cutting  Swiss  curd.  291.  The  Swiss  harp. 
292.  The  wire  stirrer.  298.  Another  method  of  cutting.  294.  Inserting 
the  wooden  brake.  295.  Cooking  the  curd.  296.  Testing  the  curd  for 
firmness.  297.  Dipping  the  curd.  298.  Pressing  drum  Swiss.  299.  Press- 
ing block  Swiss.  300.  Marking  cheese.  301.  Salting  the  cheese  in  brine. 
302.  Salting  with  dry  salt. 

Chapter  XVI. — Swiss  Cheese— Work  in  the  Cellar. 

303.  Starting  the  eyes.  304.  Reason  for  making  block  Swiss.  305, 
Handling  on  the  shelves.  306.  The  second  cellar.  307.  Handling  block 
Swiss  in  the  cellar.  308.  Length  of  curing  period.  309.  Boxing  drum 
Swiss.    310.  Boxing  block  Swiss.    311.  Whey  butter. 

Chapter  XVII. — Brick  Cheese. 

312.  Characteristics  of  brick  cheese.  313.  Quality  of  milk  required. 
314.  Milk  when  received.  315.  Quantity  of  rennet  required.  816.  How 
cooked.    317.  Testing  curd   for   firmness.    318.  Dipping  the  curd.    319. 


Table  of  Contents.  xiii 

Brick  cheese  molds.  320.  Draining  table.  321.  Draining  boards.  322. 
Filling  the  molds.  323.  Pressing  the  cheese.  324.  Salting  the  cheese. 
325.  Curing  the  cheese.  326.  Appearance  of  gas;  remedy.  327.  Curing 
process.     328.  How  cheese  is  shipped.     329.  Fancy  styles. 

Chapter  XVIII. — Limburger  Cheese. 

330.  Origin  of  Limburger.  331.  Characteristics  of  Limburger.  332. 
Kind  of  milk  required.  333.  Utensils  used.  334.  Setting  the  milk.  335. 
Cooking  Limburger  curd.  336.  Dipping  the  curd.  337.  Limburger 
pressing  table.  338.  Salting  Limburger.  339.  Curing  Li'mburger.  340. 
Shipping  Limburger.     341.  Cause  of  putrefactive  fermentation. 

Chapter  XIX. — Edam  Cheese. 

342.  Characteristics  of  Edam  cheese.  343.  Origin  of  Edam.  344. 
Farming  in  Holland.  345.  Edam  cheese  in  Holland..  346.  Treatment  of 
cheese  for  market.  347.  Description  of  an  Edam  market.  348.  Possi- 
bilities of  manufacture  in  America.  349.  Market  for  Edam  in  America. 
3*50.  Methods  of  manufacture.  351.  Quality  of  milk  required.  352.  Hand- 
ling the  curd  for  Edam.  353.  Edam  molds.  354.  Methods  of  pressing. 
355.  Hooping  the  curd.  356.  Dressing  Edam  cheese.  357.  Salting 
Edam.  358.  Curing  Edam.  359.  Shelves  for  new  cheese.  360.  Length 
of  curing  period.     361.  Preparing  the  cheese  for  market. 

Chapter  XX. — Cottage  Cheese. 

362.  Utilization  of  skim  milk.  363.  Methods  of  manufacture.  364. 
Curdling  power  of  acid.  365.  Effect  of  fat  on  per  cent  of  acid  in  milk. 
366.  Abnormal  fermentations.  367.  Measuring  the  acidity.  368.  Moist- 
ure, how  regulated.  369.  Dipping  the  cheese.  370.  Hydrochloric  acid 
cheese.     371.  Marketing  the  cheese.     372.  Soft  cream  cheese. 


Chapter  I. 
THE  CONSTITUTION  OF  MILK. 


1.  PURPOSE   OF   MILK. 

Cow's  milk  is  given  for  the  primary  purpose  of  nourishing 
the  young  calf  until  it  can  seek  other  food  in  variety. 

2.  COMPOSITION. 

One  might  therefore  expect  to  find  that  it  contains  all  the 
food  elements  necessary  for  the  building  up  of  the  young  animal's 
body.  An  analysis  reveals  the  presence  of  water,  for  the  young 
animal's  body  is  in  the  largest  proportion  composed  of  water; 
ash  for  the  bones ;  nitrogenous  material  in  the  form  of  casein, 
albumose  and  albumen  to  nourish  the  muscles,  hair,  hoofs  and 
horns;  and  carbonaceous  matter  in  the  form  of  sugar  and  fat  to 
maintain  the  heat  of  the  body. 

The  following  table  will  give  a  fair  idea  of  the  average  com- 
position of  milk  as  delivered  to  a  New  York  cheese  factory ;  the 
figures  being  taken  from  Bulletin  82,  December,  1894,  Geneva, 
New  York  Experiment  Station : 

TABLE  SHOWING  AVERAGE  MONTHLY  COMPOSITION  OF  MILK. 


Month. 

II 

IX  o 

o 

0  1 

m 

t6 

li 

IXC/3W 

May 

87.40 

12.60 

3.63 

8.97 

3  14 

2  44 

0  32 

0.38 
0.43 
0  44 

5.83 
5.85 
5.78 
5.66 

87.53 

12.47 

3.55 

8  92 

3  07 

2  35 

0  29 

July 

87.63 

12.37 

3.59 

8.78 

3  00 

2  27 

0  29 

August 

87.51 

12  49 

3.78 

8.71 

3.05 

2.32 

0.31 

0.42 

September  . . . 

87.33 

12.67 

3.75 

8.92 

3.10 

2.41 

0.34 

0.35 

5.82 

October  .... 

86.87  j  13.13 

4.00 

9.13 

3.36 

2.60 

0.36 

0.40 

5.77 

These  samples  were  not  fresh  when  received  by  the  chemist, 
part  of  the  albumen  having  been  changed  to  albumose.     It  is 


Cheese  Making. 


given  in  the  table  as  reported  by  the  chemist,  but  the  albumen 
and  albumose  may  be  thought  of  as  albumen. 

This  table  shows  that  the  total  solids  in  the  milk  varies 
between  13  and  13  per  cent,  and  the  fat  varies  between  3.5  and 
4.7  per  cent.  These  are  averages  for  the  milk  in  the  vat  at  the 
factory.  Individual  cows  or  herds  may  produce  milk  varying 
considerably  from  these  averages.  In  the  table  the  sugar,  ash, 
etc.,  are  combined.  Approximately  speaking  milk  contains  5  per 
cent  of  milk  sugar  and  .7  per  cent  ash. 

The  following  chart  shows  how  the  different  constituents  of 
the  milk  are  usually  grouped  with  an  approximate  relation  to 
their  use  as  food  in  the  animal  economy.  Thousands  of  milk 
analyses  are  on  record,  but  these  vary  some  with  conditions  of 
location,  etc.,  so  that  it  would  be  difificult  to  give  an  absolutely 
correct  average,  but  the  figures  here  given  are  within  the  range 
of  usual  variation. 


in 


M.k 


87' 


Total 
13% 


Solids 
r|ot 


Ash      .7°/}  i- 
CaselnZ.li 


m 


Use 
Animal  eccrxoyy^ 
fWa+er   of 

(IB  ones 


em 


umen 


Trolei 


Fciid.rA 


Hoojs 
Horns 

[Heat 
-s    and 

fat 


3.     MAN'S   USE    OP   MILK. 

Man  has  diverted  milk  from  its  normal  purpose  (the  nour- 
ishment of  the  calf)  and  uses  it  for  a  number  of  food  products 
for  himself.  The  cow  normally  gives  enough  milk  in  quantity 
and  duration  to  nourish  the  calf  until  it  can  care  for  itself  and 
then  dries  up;  but  by  artificial  means  the  cow  has  been  accus- 
tomed to  the  habit  of  giving  milk  in  larger  quantities  and  for  a 


The  Constitution  of  Milk.  3 

longer  period,  and  the  cow  that  has  not  acquired  this  habit  satis- 
factorily is  not  a  financial  success.  Let  us  examine  the  several 
components  of  the  milk. 

4.  ALBUMINOIDS. 

The  albuminoids  or  protein  contain  the  nitrogen  of  the  milk 
and  may  be  divided  into  three  parts ;  namely,  the  casein,  albumen, 
and  albumose. 

5.  CA'EIN. 

The  casein  is  the  part  of  the  milk  that  is  curdled  by  rennet 
or  weak  acids.  Commonly  speaking  it  is  said  to  be  dissolved  in 
the  water  of  the  milk,  but  this  is  not  strictly  true.  If  milk  be 
filtered  through  a  porcelain  filter  it  will  leave  a  gelatinous  mass 
in  the  filter.  This  is  the  casein ;  or,  if  skim  milk  be  revolved  for 
a  long  time  in  a  separator  bowl,  a  layer  of  casein  will  be  de- 
posited on  the  walls  of  the  bowl.  Casein  is  dissolved  in  solutions 
of  borax,  sodium  phosphate,  and  alkalis.  It  is  used  commer- 
cially as  a  sizing  for  paper. 

6.  ALBUMEN. 

By  referring  to  the  preceding  tables  (2)  it  will  be  seen  that 
the  casein  does  not  constitute  all  of  the  protein  of  milk.  When 
milk  has  coagulated  by  rennet  the  casein  is  precipitated.  If  the 
whey  be  heated  to  180°  F.  another  precipitate  will  be  thrown 
down.  This  is  the  albumen.  It  is  much  like  the  white  of  an  egg 
which  is  coagulated  by  heat.  It  is  in  solution  until  the  heat 
precipitates  it.  It  probably  accounts  for  part  of  the  burnt  taste 
of  boiled  milk.  Albumen  cannot  be  incorporated  in  Cheddar 
cheese  without  giving  the  conditions  of  sour  cheese. 

7.  ALBUMOSE. 

The  albumose  is  not  coagulated  by  rennet  heat.  It  is  derived 
from  the  albumen. 

8.  ASH. 

The  ash  is  the  bone-forming  part  of  the  milk  and  consists 
largely  of  phosphates  of  calcium  and  potash,  and  there  are  some 
chlorides.  Although  the  ash  is  in  small  proportions  in  the  milk 
it  is  of  great  importance  in  cheese  making.  Part  of  the  calcium 
salts  are  supposed  to  be  suspended  as  fine  particles  in  the  milk 
or  held  in  combination  with  the  casein,  but  a  part  is  certainly 
held  in  solution  and  on  this  solubility  of  calcium  salts  depends 
the  property  of  coagulation  by  rennet.  If  ammonium  oxalate  be 
added  to  milk  in  sufficient  quantity,  the  soluble  calcium  salts  will 


4  Cheese  Making. 

be  changed  to  insoluble  calcium  oxalate,  and  the  milk  will  not 
curdle  with  rennet.  Similar  results  can  be  obtained  by  heating 
the  milk  to  180°  F.  When  a  soluble  calcium  salt  is  added,  the 
rennet  will  again  act — in  fact  will  operate  faster  as  the  soluble 
calcium  salt  is  increased. 

9.  MIL,K   SUGAR. 

The  sugar  of  milk  crystallizes  in  hard  crystals,  but  is  not  as 
sweet  as  the  common  cane  sugar.  At  high  temperature  it 
caramelizes,  giving  with  the  albumen  to  the  milk,  the  peculiar 
scalded  taste.  It  is  separated  from  milk  by  evaporating  whey  in 
a  vacuum  pan.  Commercial  milk  sugar  is  used  in  lactated  foods 
and  medicines. 

10.  FAT. 

The  fat  of  the  milk  is  a  mixture  of  several  fats,  mainly  of 
stearic,  palmitic  and  oleic  acids,  in  combination  with  glycerine. 
With  these  are  a  number  of  fats  that  are  both  volatile  and  soluble. 
In  this  latter  respect  butter  fat  differs  from  the  fats  used  in 
oleomargarine.  Filled  cheese  is  made  by  introducing  oleo  oils 
into  milk  in  the  place  of  the  butter  fat. 

Jl.     IN   EMULSION. 

The  fat  of  milk  is  in  emulsion — that  is,  it  is  distributed 
through  the  milk  serum  in  the  form  of  very  small  globules, 
which  can  be  seen  by  the  eye  only  by  the  aid  of  a  powerful  micro- 
scope. They  vary  normally  in  size  from  1-40,000  of  an  inch  to 
1-2000  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Being  so  very  small  they  must 
necessarily  be  very  numerous. 

Dr.  Babcock  estimates  that  in  average  milk  there  are  150,- 
000,000  in  a  single  drop.  The  average  production  of  fat  glob- 
ules by  the  cows  in  the  Cornell  Experiment  Station  herd  has 
been  estimated  to  be  38,210,000  per  second. 

13.     CREAMING    OP   MII^K. 

The  fat  globules  being  lighter  than  the  surrounding  serum 
naturally  rise,  and  crowding  close  together  form  a  layer  known 
as  the  cream.  In  the  manufacture  of  cheese  it  is  necessary  to 
get  an  even  distribution  of  the  fat  globules  at  the  time  of  coagu- 
lation by  the  rennet. 

13.  EFFECT  OF  PAT  ON  Q,UAr.ITY  OP  CHEESE. 

Cheese  from  separator  skim  milk  is  hard  and  horny;  and 
though  undoubtedly  possessing  food  value,  is  too  tough  to  be 
eaten. 


G  CiiiiKsi-:  .\l.\Ki.\(;. 

C"1h'(.'S(.-  made  rroin  i)arl  .skim  milk  lhiui<;ii  ratlur  dry,  is 
better  than  this,  and  the  clieese  from  full  cream  milk  mnre  mellow 
and  aj^reeahle  U>  the  taste.  Cheese  made  fmni  exeeptii  inally 
rich  milk  m"  fr<im  milk  fortilied  hy  addition  of  cream  is  still 
softer  and  more  palatable.  This  diiiference  in  (juality  is  recos;- 
nized  on  the  market  as  can  be  seen  by  the  quotations,  full  skims 
ranging-  from  1  to  4  cents  in  value,  and  full  creams  't  to  1.'!  cents 
per  potmd.  Cheese  containing  less  than  ."id  per  cent  of  fat  in  the 
total  solids  has  been  made  from  skimmed  milk. 

14,     I^KKF.r'l"   C»K   KAT  0\   QIAXTITV   OK   Cll KIOSK. 

.About  hve  and  a  half  to  six  ])ounds  of  cheese  can  be  ob- 
taineil  from  one  hundred  ])ounds  of  separator  skim  milk,  the 
amount    obtainable    ile])ending    on    the    amount    of   casein    in    the 


Tlie  fat  frlobules  as  seen  tlirougli  a  niicrosccpe.  'tlie  inntidii  iiiclii(l(<l  in  the 
circle  is  more  liiglily  mapnified.  Tiie  clottinR  is  due  to  ;in  alluiniinous  siili'-i.ince  (the 
fibrin  according  to  Dr.  JJaljcock)  tliat  collects  amund  the  glohiiles  mmiu  after  the  niilk 
is   drawn    from   the   udder. 


cheese.  Perha])s  .").^  lbs.  wDuld  be  the  amount  of  cured  cheese 
obtainable  fnjm  such  milk,  liutter  fat  will  carry  about  a  tenth 
of  its  weight  of  water  with  it  into  the  cheese.  A  rough  wav  of 
estimating  the  probable  yield  of  cheese  from  a  milk  of  a  certain 
test  would  be  to  multi]il\-  the  per  cent  of  fat  b\  1.1,  and  add  '^^  — 
the  result  being  the  ])ouniIs  of  cheese  obtainable.  I"or  instance, 
from   .".  i)er  cent  milk  there   would   be  obtained   ."VX  1  •  1  =•'•■"'   plus 


The  Constitution  of  Milk. 


5.7  equal  to  9  lbs,;  and  from  4  per  cent  milk,  4X1-1=4.4  plus 
5.7  equal  to  10.1  lbs. 

A  little  more  accurate  method  is  as  follows :  Cheese  on  the 
average  contains  37  per  cent  of  water  and  63  per  cent  solids.  By 
dividing  100,  the  total  per  cent  of  solids  and  water,  by  63,  the  per 
cent  of  solids  in  the  cheese,  we  obtain  the  factor  1.58.  Of  the 
solids  not  fat,  the  casein  and  ash  going  into  the  cheese  forms  about 
one-third.  Some  fat  goes  into  the  whey  so  that  on  the  average 
about  91  per  cent  goes  into  the  cheese.  Then  the  following 
formula  will  give  the  pounds  of  cheese  obtainable  from  a  given 
milk : 

1.58  (S°^d  not  Fat  ^    ^j  p^^)  Example  solids  not  Fat  8.92,  fat  4  per  cent. 

8.92-^3=2.74  or  K   solids  not  fat.     .91  of  4=3.64. 
3.64+2.74=6.38  or  the  total  solids  X  1.58=10.08  pounds  of  cheese. 

No  rule  can  give  absolutely  correct  results  on  account  of 
varying  factors  that  will  be  explained  la.ter. 

The  students  of  the  Wisconsin  Dairy  School  who  work  for 
dairy  certificates  are  required  to  report  their  work  each  month 
on  blanks  furnished  them.  From  347  of  these  reports  covering 
40,900,890  pounds  of  milk  made  into  3,800,000  pounds  of  cheese. 
Dr.  Babcock  prepared  the  following  table : 


TABLE    SHOWING    PER    CENT    OF 
DIFFERENT 

FAT    IN    CHEESE    FROM    MILKS    OF 
COMPOSITION. 

Per  cent  Fat  in 
Milk. 

Yield  of  Cheese 

per  100  lb. 

MUk. 

Per  cent  Fat  in 
Cheese 

Pounds  of  Cheese 

for  one  pound 

of  Fat. 

3.18 
3  38 
3  60 
3  84 
4.09 
4.45 

Average 3 .  75 

9.19 
9.24 
9.41 
9.81 
10.30 
10.71 

29.7 
32.3 
34.0 
35.1 
35.8 
37.8 

34.1 

2.94 
2.73 
2.61 
2  56 
2.51 
2.41 

2  63 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  results  with  the  rule  given  above 
correspond  very  closely  to  the  results  in  actual  practice.  It  also 
illustrates  the  difference  in  the  quality  of  the  cheese,  for  as  the 
fat  in  the  milk  increases,  it  also  increases  in  the  cheese,  making 
a  mellower  cheese  which  is  more  pleasing  to  the  consumer. 

The  yield  of  cheese  per  pound  of  fat,  however,  decreases 
with  the  increase  of  fat  in  the  milk.     If  this  were  not  so  the 


8  Cheese  Making. 

cheese  could  not  become  richer  in  fat  with  the  corresponding 
improvement  in  quahty. 

Dr.  Babcock  has  given  a  most  excellent  demonstration  in 
the  Eleventh  Annual  Report  of  the  Wisconsin  Experiment  Sta- 
tion, that  from  market  quotations  the  true  value  of  milk  for 
cheese  is  in  proportion  to  its  fat  content.  He  says,  in  conclusion : 
"It  may  be  stated  as  a  general  rule  that  it  never  pays  to  skim  off 
part  of  the  cream  and  make  both  butter  and  cheese,  and  further 
that  whenever  the  price  of  butter  exceeds  two  and  one-third 
times  the  price  of  cheese  it  will  pay  better  to  make  butter  than 
cheese,  no  account  being  taken  of  the  value  of  skim  milk  and 
whey.  If  the  relative  value  of  skim  milk  and  whey  be  taken 
into  account  butter  should  pay  better  than  cheese  whenever  its 
price  exceeds  two  and  one-quarter  times  the  price  of  cheese. 
Under  other  conditions  cheese  should  pay  better  than  butter." 

As  a  compromise  between  the  pooling  system  and  the  butter 
fat  method  of  paying  dividends,  Prof.  H.  H.  Dean  offers  a  sug- 
gestion of  adding  2  per  cent  to  the  test.  Thus,  if  A's  milk  tested 
3  per  cent,  add  2  and  make  it  5  per  cent.  If  B's  tested  4  per  cent, 
add  2  and  make  it  6,  thus  changing  the  ratio  of  3  :4  to  5  :6.  This 
would  make  either  patron's  butter  fat  more  valuable  if  water  was 
added  to  the  milk.  The  method  puts  a  premium  on  the  poorest 
quality  of  milk. 

In  Chapter  XIII  an  illustration  of  the  method  of  paying  for 
milk  by  fat  test  is  given. 

15.  COLOSTRUM   MIIiK. 

The  first  milk  given  by  a  cow  just  after  parturition  is  called 
colosturm  milk,  and  is  much  more  viscous  than  normal  milk, 
sometimes  being  as  thick  as  syrup,  and  usually  of  a  high  color. 
The  components  of  the  milk  are  not  in  their  normal  proportions, 
the  albuminoids  sometimes  amounting  to  15  per  cent,  and  the 
specific  gravity  may  run  as  high  as  1.085.  Under  the  microscope, 
cells  which  have  scaled  off  from  the  inside  of  the  udder  can  be 
seen  floating  in  the  milk,  and  while  these  dead  particles  are  pres- 
ent the  milk  is  unfit  for  cheese.  After  four  or  five  milkings  the 
milk  will  appear  normal,  but  it  should  not  be  used  for  a  week. 

16.  CURD. 

The  curd,  or  green  cheese,  is  the  coagulated  casein  which 
holds  in  its  meshes  most  of  the  fat,  some  water,  and  small  por- 


The  Constitution  of  Milk. 


tions  of  albumen,  milk  sugar  and  ash,  plus  salt  that  is  added 
artificially  when  finished.  The  water  in  green  cheese  is  about 
one-third  of  its  weight.  Green  cheese  and  curd  are  synonymous, 
for  the  cheese  is  simply  the  curd  pressed  together. 

TABLE   showing   COMPOSITION  OF  GREEN  CHEESE. 


Per  cent 
Water. 

Per  ceut 
SoUds. 

Per  cent 
Solids  - 
not  Fat. 

Per  cent 
Fat. 

Per  cent 

Casein, 

Etc. 

Per  cent 

Sugar, 

Ash,  Etc. 

36.69 

63.51 

29.16 

34.14 

23.44 

5.17 

In  the  above  table,  which  was  compiled  from  the  Geneva 
Experiment  Station  Bulletin  82,  the  sugar,  ash,  etc.,  are  grouped 
together.  Our  own  analyses  showed  the  ash  of  cheese  to  vary 
from  2.38  to  3.85  per  cent,  of  which  ash,  2.38  to  2.68  per  cent, 
was  the  natural  ash  of  the  milk,  the  remainder  being  salt  that  was 
added  artificially.  Over  40  per  cent  water  makes  a  poor  cheese. 
Home  trade  cheese  contains  36  to  37  per  cent  and  export  33  to 
36  per  cent. 

17.     WHEY. 

In  the  manufacture  of  cheese,  the  milk  is  curdled  by  rennet, 
and  the  curd  cut  into  small  pieces  from  which  the  liquid  portion, 
or  whey,  is  expelled.  It  consists  of  the  major  part  of  the  water 
of  the  milk,  which  carries  with  it  nearly  all  the  soluble  portions ; 
namely,  the  albumen,  milk  sugar,  ash,  a.nd  also  a  small  portion 
of  fat,  as  the  globules  break  away  from  the  surface  of  the  curd 
when  it  is  cut. 

IS.     COMPOSITION    OF    AVHEY. 

The  average  of  analyses  of  whey  for  an  entire  season  in  a. 
New  York  State  factory  was  as  follows:  Water  93.12  per  cent, 
total  solids  6.88  per  cent,  fat  .27  per  cent,  nitrogenous  sub- 
stances .81  per  cent,  ash  sugar,  etc.,  5.80  per  cent. 

19.     LOSSES    OF    FAT    IN    WHEY. 

At  the  Minnesota  Experiment  Station  in  1892  cheese  Was 
made  from  normal  milks  of  different  fat  content.  The  following 
table  shows  the  losses  of  fat  from  these  different  milks : 

TABLE  SHOWING  LOSSES  OF  FAT  IN  MILKS  OF  DIFFERENT  FAT  CONTENT. 


Per  cent  fat  in  milk  . 
Per  cent  fat  in  whey 
Number  of  trials  . .  .  . 


5  to  5.5 
.32 
4 


10 


Cheese  Making. 


In  another  series  of  experiments  where  cream  was  added 
to  milk  to  make  it  test  6  per  cent,  the  loss  of  fat  in  the  whey  was 
no  greater  tha.n  in  the  whey  from  normal  milks  like  that  to 
which  the  cream  was  added. 

.  In  all  cases  the  richer  milks  made  more  cheese,  which 
would  of  course  leave  less  whey  from  each  100  pounds  of  milk. 
It  is  easily  seen  from  this  that  the  fat  in  rich  milk  can  be  worked 
into  the  cheese  more  economically  than  the  fat  from  poor  milk. 
Wha.t  effect  could  this  have  in  applying  the  second  rule  given 
in  paragraph  14? 

20.  WHEY   FROM    SWISS   CHEESE. 

As  explained  above  (17)  the  fat  that  goes  into  the  whey  is 
the  fat  globules  that  are  knocked  o&  from  the  surface  of  the 
curd  particles.  By  using  the  kind  of  a  knife  used  in  Cheddar 
cheese  making,  the  fat  loss  can  be  reduced  to  .3  or  .4  per  cent 
instead  of  .7  per  cent  when  the  old  Swiss  harp  is  used. 

By  careful  operation  many  makers  are  reducing  the  fat  test 
of  the  whey  to  .2  per  cent. 

21.  CONSTITUENTS    RECOVERED    IN    CHEESE. 

The  different  parts  of  the  milk  have  been  discussed,  to- 
gether with  their  relation  to  recovery  or  loss  in  cheese  making. 

The  following  table  taken  from  Bulletin  82  of  the  Geneva 
Station  gives  a  very  good  idea  of  where  the  dififerent  parts  of 
the  milk  go  to : 

TABLE  GIVING  GENERAL  SUMMARY  OF  SEASON'S  RESULTS  RELATING  TO 
LOSS  OF  MILK-CONSTITUENTS  IN  CHEESE   MAKING. 


g 

.=1 

1! 

J 

^°i 

•S-sg 

S.s 

h 

IJ 

Solids  in  Milk 

12.52 

6.20 

6.32 

49.52 

50.48 

Fat  in  Milk 

3.66 

0.25 

3.41 

6.83 

93.17 

Nitrogen  Compounds  in  Milk . . 

3.07 

0.73 

2.34 

23.78 

76.22 

In  this  table  it  will  be  seen  that  93.17  per  cent  of  the  fat  of 
the  milk  went  into  the  cheese  and  our  rule  places  the  figure  of 
91  per  cent  low.     (17) 


The  Constitution  of  M'Ilk.  11 

questions  on  chapter  i. 
1.  What  are  the  food  elements  which  enter  into  the  compo- 
sition of  milk?  2.  What  is  the  average  composition  of  milk? 
3.  What  is  meant  by  total  solids?  4.  Of  what  do  the  solids 
not  fat  consist?  5.  How  do  we  distinguish  the  difference  be- 
tween casein,  albumen,  and  albumose?  6.  What  importance  is 
attached  to  the  soluble  calcium  salts?  7.  How  much  milk 
sugar  in  100  pounds  of  milk?  8.  How  does  milk  sugar  differ 
from  cane  sugar?  9.  What  is  the  nature  of  butter  fat?  10. 
In  what  form  is  the  fat  found  in  milk?  11.  What  is  the  size  of 
the  fat  globules?  12.  How  many  fat  globules  in  a  drop  of 
average  milk?  13.  What  can  be  said  about  the  distribution  of 
the  globules  at  the  time  of  adding  the  rennet?  14.  What  is  the 
effect  of  fat  in  the  milk  on  the  quality  of  the  cheese?  15.  What 
is  the  effect  of  the  fat  content  of  milk  on  the  quantity  of  cheese 
obtained  therefrom  ?  16.  How  much  cheese  can  be  made  from 
one  hundred  pounds  of  separator  skim  milk?  17.  How  much 
will  one  pound  of  fat  increase  the  weight  of  cheese  made  from 
the  milk?  18.  Give  first  rule  for  calculating  approximately  the 
yield  of  cheese  from  milk  of  a  given  fat  content.  19.  Give  sec- 
ond rule  for  calculating  yield  of  cheese  when  both  fat  and  solids 
not  fat  in  the  milk  are  known.  20.  What  does  Dr.  Babcock 
say  about  the  practice  of  making  both  cheese  and  butter  from 
the  same  milk?  21.  What  is  colostrum  milk,  and  how  does  it 
differ  from  normal  milk?  22.  What  is  the  chemical  composi- 
tion of  green  cheese?  23.  What  is  the  whey  and  what  elements 
of  the  milk  does  it  contain?  24.  How  do  the  losses  of  fat  in 
rich  and  poor  milk  compare?  25.  How  may  excessive  losses 
of  fat  in  Swiss  cheese  making  be  avoided?  26.  What  propor- 
tion of  the  various  constituents  of  the  milk  go  into  the  curd 
and  into  the  whey? 


Chapter  II. 
SECRETION  AND  CONTAMINATION  OF  MILK. 


22.  STRUCTURE   OP  THE   UDDER. 

The  udder  of  the  cow  where  the  milk  is  secreted,  consists 
of  two  glands  tied  to  each  other  along  the  median  line,  and  to 
the  posterior  part  of  the  abdomen,  by  fibrous  tissue.  Each 
quarter  has  two  openings  or  teats.  The  teat  is  hollow,  having 
an  opening  at  the  lower  end  guarded  by  a  sphincter  muscle. 
The  chamber  of  the  teat  opens  into  another  chamber  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  udder  just  above  the  teat.  From  this  cha.mber 
ducts  diverge,  dividing  and  growing  smaller.  The  twO'  halves 
separated  by  the  fibrous  band  along  the  median  line  are  entirely 
separate.  The  ducts  end  in  httle  chambers  about  a  thirtieth  of 
an  inch  in  diameter.  These  chambers  or  ultimate  follicles  are 
lined  with  cells.  Arteries,  blood  vessels  and  nerves  surround 
them  and  the  blood  brought  by  the  arteries  is  changed  by  the 
cells  into  milk. 

23.  SECRETION    OF   THE    MILK. 

While  some  parts  of  the  blood  may  be  taken  into  the  milk 
without  change,  and  white  blood  corpuscles  have  actually  been 
found  in  milk,  the  blood  is  for  the  most  part  changed  by  the 
cells.  The  fat  globules  are  produced  in  the  cells  and  turned 
loose  into  the  ducts. 

If  samples  of  the  fore  milk  and  strippings  be  analyzed,  the 
solids  not  fat  will  be  found  to  be  the  same.  The  strippings  will, 
however,  be  much  the  richer  in  fat.  This  is  explained  on  the 
ground — first,  that  the  fat  globules  being  lighter  there  is  a  nat- 
ural creaming  in  the  udder,  and  second,  that  the  fat  globules 
being  solids  are  retarded  more  by  friction  in  their  passage 
through  the  ducts. 

24.  TIME    OF    SECRETION. 

Some    authorities   believe   that   milk  ^is    secreted   to   a   large 
extent  at  the  time  of  milking,  for  when  a  cow  is  excited  or 

12 


14  CiiiiKsi-:  Making. 

disturbed  at  that  time,  she  may  tail  to  produce  as  nuich  milk  of 
the  same  (juality  as  usual. 

On  the  other  baud  the  louger  the  period  betweeu  milkings 
the  larger  will  be  the  ([uantity  of  milk  given,  and  if  the  udder 
is  not  emptied  it  will  become  very  much  distended,  and  from 
these  facts  it  is  argued  that  milk  productitju  is  a.  contimious 
process,  though  the  rate  of  secretion  may  vary  at  different  times. 

25.     CWl'aE   OF    II  \  I)    I'l,  A  \  OK^;. 

There  are  three  causes  for  bad  tiavors  in  milk,  namely: 
l'"rom  strong  foods  through  the  blood,  by  absorption  from  the 
air,  and  i)v  bacterial  infection. 

•^*i.     FKO.M    FOOD    K.VTLOV. 

Some  strtnig  lla\ored  foofls  like  onions,  turnips,  cabbages, 
rag  weed,  etc.,  put  a  like  tlavor  into  the  milk  given  by  the  cow. 
The  reailer  may  have  observed  that  when  very  hungry  and  faint, 
a  little  lunch  will  renew  strength  in  a  very  few  minutes.  This 
shows  how  quickly  the  food  is  taken  into  the  blood.  In  like 
manner  when  a  cow  eats  strong  tlavored  foods  the  volatile 
substances  constituting  the  fla.vor  are  taken  into  the  blood  and 
from  the  blood  they  go  into  the  milk.  Aerating  milk  (o:;)  will  in 
a  measure  set  these  volatile  substances  free.  If  strc^ng  Havored 
food  is  given  the  cow  just  before  milking  the  llavor  will  be  sure 
to  be  found  in  the  milk.  If  fed  just  after  milking  the  llavors 
will  proi)al)l\-  i)as>  out  of  the  cow's  swstem  before  the  ne.xt 
milking. 

27.     IM.WOUS    l»V    AH'OHI'TIO.V. 

Milk.  esijecialK-  when  warm,  will  absorb  odors  through  the 
meilium  of  tlu'  surrouiuling  air.  It  should  therefore  be  kept 
awa\  from  the  debasmg  intluence  of  hog  pens,  barnyards,  swill 
barrels,  and  like  oderiferous  sources.  It  is  very  likely  that  the 
lla\'ors  of  food  may  get  into  the  milk  in  this  way. 

2s.    it  \< 'I'lOKiAi.  i\ri:('i'io\. 

I 'poll  stamling.  milk  becomes  soin*.  The  souring  is  caused 
I)\-  the  growth  oi"  nn'nute  organisms,  connnouly  calleil  microbes 
or  bacteria,  The\  are  plants  consisting  of  but  a  single  cell  and 
so  small  thai  tlu'y  can  l)e  seen  only  by  powerful  microscopes. 
The\-  increase  ver\  rapidly  and  b\-  their  growth  proluce  the 
ch.anges  observed  in  the  uu'lk.  .^oine  forms  change  the  milk 
sugar   into  Lactic   acid   and   the   milk  become-;   sour,   ollvr   kin<ls 


SECRiniOX    AND    CoXTA.MlXATlOX    OF    2^1  ILK.  15 

produce  a  ropiness  of  the  milk  without  souring  it,  and  other 
forms  produce  gas  in  the  milk  and  when  made  into  cheese  the 
curd  becomes  filled  with  gas  holes. 

aU.     VAUIIOTIIO.'S    OK    IIVCTKIII A    l\     >III.K. 

1  he  tollowing  are  some  oi'  the  more  conunon  couilitions 
produced  in  milk  i)\   bacterial  growlii : 

.^(.nr  milk;  gassy  milk;  hitler  milk:  slimy  milk:  soapv 
milk,  whicii  comes  irom  a  t^crm  found  on  straw  in  tlie  stable, 
producing  a  soapy  taste  and  froiiiing  of  the  nnlk  :  alcoholic 
fermentation;  red  milk;  i)lne  milk  (not  skinnnedi;  green  milk, 
etc.  .\  bacillus  known  as  coli  connnunis  which  exists  in  the 
col(Mi  or  large  intestine,  thriving  in  the  warm  conditions  there 
hnmd,  finds  its  way  from  manure  into  the  milk  and  causes  a 
large  proportion  of  the  gassy  curds  that  our  cheese  makers 
have  to  deal  with.  .\t  the  Cornell  Kxperiment  Station  this  germ 
was  found  to  exist  in  the  udder  for  a  long  lime.  It  found  its 
way  through  the  opening  in  the  teal,  got  a  lodgement,  and  was 
there  to  grow  and  contaminate  the  milk  unlil  accidentally  dis- 
lodged and  carried  out  with  the  milk.  Rustv  spots  in  cheese 
are  caused  l)\    bacillus  rudensis. 

.{O.     now     >lll,lv    I.S    I.M'IO<  TKO. 

When  the  milk  is  drawn  from  thi-  udder,  i)acteria  lloating 
separately  or  clinging  to  particles  of  dusi  in  the  air  fall  into  ii. 
Il  will  readily  be  seen  that  if  the  stable  is  closed  tight  and  hav 
has  been  l"ed  just  before  milking,  a  great  deal  of  bacleriadaden 
dust  will  i)e  stirred  up  to  l"all  into  the  milk.  If  the  cow  lies 
down  in  the  manure,  or  other  lilth.  ai  milking  time  the  dust  from 
this  is  stirred  up  and  falls  into  the  milk.  Warm  milk  is  a  good 
idace  for  the  germs  to  grow,  and  they  nudiiply  ver\-  rai)idl\.  [f 
the  nnlk  i^  cooled  the  growth  of  the  bacteria  is  checked  for  the 
time,  but  on  wanning  up  the  milk  again  the\  will  grow  and 
nudtii)ly  ra|)i<lly. 

::i.    'rill':  \\is<on<i\   <  i  hd    i-ios'i". 

While  associate.l  in  dairy  work  with  Drs.  P.abcock  and 
Kussell  at  the  Wisconsin  lvx|)erinu-nt  ."Station  we  brought  out 
what  is  knnwn  as  the  Wisconsin  Curd  Test  for  the  detection  of 
injurious  fermentatiMiis.  The  apparatus  consists  of  pint,  or 
smaller  jars,  with  perforated  tops,  which  set  in  a  fr.inie  in  a 
water  t;'.nk.     Sami)les  of  the  milk  to  be  examined  are  taken   in 


16 


Ciii-iiisii  Makim;. 


the  various  jars,  which  arc  then  set  in  warm  water  in  the  water 
tank  and  raised  to  a  temperature  of  Do  to  100'  h".  Ten  drops 
of  rennet  extract  is  added  to  each  sample  and  wdien  the  niiUv 
has  curdK"(h  the  curd  is  I)roken  ui)  with  a  c-i.se  knife.  Care 
should  be  taken  not  to  transfer  the  germs  from  one  sample  to 
another  by  the  case  knife  or  thermometer.  As  soon  as  the 
whey  separates,  it  is  strained  oft'  through  the  strainer  U)\).  leav- 
insf  the   curd  behind   in   the   jar.     The   curd   is   then   under  the 


.\.    Ini 


.\l:inv 


gas    gc 


The  curds  licic  sliow  n  \\< 
sample  of  Rood  milk  was  di\ 
a  starter  of  a  Coli  cuniimiii 
to  C. 


.\    lew    gas    ^'eriiis. 

from  curds  developed  in  the  Wisconsin  Curd  Test.  A 
d  into  three  parts.  .\  was  set  normally.  To  P.  anil  C^ 
germ    was   added,    the   larger   starter    being   added 


a   )i. 


same  conditions  as  a  cur<l  in  the  cheese  val,  and  the  various 
kinds  of  bacteria  will  develop,  giving  their  characteristic  results. 
]f  the  result  be  gas  it  will  show  in  the  curd,  or  if  it  be  a  taint  it 
will  be  manifested.  Common  .\[ason  fruit  jars  and  a  washtul) 
can  be  used  for  this  work,  but  the  regula.r  apparatus  for  the 
purpose  is  much  handier. 

32.     CAKK   OV  .MIMv. 

Having  explained  the  sources  of  bad  flavors  in  milk,  a  few- 
suggestions  about  the  care  of  milk  may  be  in  order.  It  has 
been  seen  that  one  cause  of  such  flavors  is  the  ivcd  that  the 
cows  UKiy  get.  If  it  is  necessary  to  feed  turnips  or  such  foods, 
they  should  not  be  fed  to  excess,  and  just  after  milking,  in  order 


MILK  AERATORS. 


17 


18  Cheese  Making. 

that  the  flavor  may  disappear  from  the  cow's  blood  before  the 
next  milking. 

33.  AERATION. 

Milk  should  be  aerated — that  is,  it  should  be  exposed  in 
thin  films  or  streams  to  the  air,  so  that  these  volatile  substances 
may  escape.  As  milk  will  absorb  odors  from  the  air,  especially 
when  the  milk  is  warm,  great  care  should  be  taken  to  aerate  the 
milk  in  a  place  where  the  air  is  fresh  and  untainted.  The  barn 
is  obviously  a  poor  place  in  which  to  do  this. 

34.  VARIETIES    OP    AERATORS. 

The  common  aerator  is  a  large  tin  vessel  with  fine  holes  in 
the  bottom.  It  is  held  above  the  milk  can  by  an  iron  frame. 
The  milk  is  strained  into  this,  and  while  the  milker  is  busy  milk- 
ing the  next  cow,  the  milk  falls  through  the  air  in  fine  streams. 
The  star  cooler  and  aerator  is  arranged  so  that  the  milk  flows 
in  a  thin  film  over  a  corrugated  surface,  and  water  flowing 
through  the  apparatus  cools  the  milk  rapidly  as  it  is  being  ex- 
posed to  the  air. 

35.  THE  BARN   AIR. 

The  air  in  the  barn  should  be  kept  as  free  as  possible  from 
dust,  for  as  previously  explained  the  particles  of  dust  are  loaded 
with  bacteria.  Danish  farmers  have  a  habit  of  airing  out  the 
stables  before  milking,  and  hay  or  dry  fodder  is  not  fed  until 
after  milking. 

The  stables  should  also  be  kept  clean  to  prevent  the  milk 
from  being  injured  by  foul  odors. 

36.  KEEP    COWS    CLEAN. 

The  cows,  if  dirty,  should  be  carded  the  same  as  a  horse. 
There  is  absolutely  no  excuse  for  having  a  cow's  flanks. plastered 
over  with  filth.  As  previously  explained,  such  filth  is  an  incu- 
bator for  the  kinds  of  bacteria  that  spoil  the  milk.  At  milking 
time  the  dust  is  stirred  up  and  falls  into  the  milk.  Just  before 
milking,  the  cow's  coat  should  be  dampened  with  a  rag  or 
sponge  to  lay  the  dust  and  thus  prevent  its  falling.  The  habit 
of  wetting  the  teats,  however,  is  a  b.a.d  one,  for  with  the  moisture 
dirt  runs  down  into  the  milk. 

While  a  limited  number  of  lactic  acid-producing  germs  in 
milk  may  not  be  detrimental,  the  germs  that  come  from  barn 
filth  are  very  injurious. 


Secretion  and  Contamination  of  Milk.  19 

:j7.   cooling  the  milk. 

As  soon  as  the  milk  has  been  aerated,  it  should  be  cooled 
to  60°  F.  or  less.  At  40°  F.  there  will  be  little,  if  any,  change  in 
the  milk,  a.nd  if  it  has  to  be  kept  a  considerable  length  of  time, 
this  temperature  should  be  approximated  as  near  as  possible. 

38.  COVERING  THE  CANS. 

After  the  milk  has  been  properly  aerated  and  cooled,  it 
should  be  covered  to  prevent  evaporation  from  the  cream  that 
forms  on  the  top.  This  cream  can  be  readily  worked  back  into 
the  milk  if  it  does  not  become  leathery  from  evaporation. 

39.  KIND  OF  UTENSILS. 

Wooden  pails  should  not  be  used  for  milk  for  the  reason 
that  milk  will  soak  into  the  wood  and  ferment,  ready  to  con- 
taminate the  next  lot  of  milk. 

The  seams  of  pails,  cans  and  dippers  should  be  filled  flush 
with  solder  so  that  milk  cannot  collect  and  sour. 

40.  CARE   OF  UTENSILS. 

All  strainers,  pails  and  other  utensils  in  which  the  milk  is 
handled  should  be  rinsed  first  with  lukewarm  water,  and  then 
with  boiling  water,  and  if  possible,  exposed  tO'  a  jet  of  steam  to 
thoroughly  sterilize  them.  Many  germs  are  killed  by  direct 
sunHght,  and  the  utensils  should  be  set  out  in  such  a  position 
that  the  sun  can  shine  into  them.  After  scalding  they  should 
not  be  wiped  out  with  a  dirty  rag. 

41.  FACTORY   CLEANLINESS. 

No  less  important  than  the  matter  of  cleanliness  in  the 
barn  and  manner  of  milking,  is  the  matter  of  cleanliness  in  the 
factory.  Milk  may  be  spoiled  in  an  untidy  factory  after  its 
delivery  there.  A  few  suggestions  at  this  time  regarding  the 
care  of  the  factory  will  be  pertinent. 

Almost  every  cheese-maker  will  keep  the  inside  of  the 
weigh-can  and  cheese  vats  clean,  but  the  outside  is  often  sorely 
neglected.  Milk  may  be  spilled  on  the  floor,  and  not  properly 
cleaned  up.  Water  is  slopped  on  the  floor,  and  the  maker 
wades  through  it  without  drying  it  up ;  when  the  whey  is  drawn 
from  the  vat,  it  often  goes  on  the  floor,  and  in  order  to  keep  his 
feet  dry,  he  wears  rubber  boots. 


20  Cheese  Making. 

43.     RUBBER   BOOTS 

The  rubber  boots  are  an  injury  to  his  health  and  the  slop 
unnecessary,  to  say  nothing  about  the  wear  on  the  floor  and  its 
nasty  appearance.  One  would  think  a  woman  who  kept  her 
kitchen  floor  in  such  condition,  a  very  untidy  housewife,  and 
there  is  no  reason  why  a  fa.ctory  floor  should  be  slopped  over 
any  more  than  a  kitchen  floor.  If  any  water  accidentally  gets 
onto  the  floor,  it  should  be  mopped  up  at  once.  Rotten  floors 
which  have  to  be  renewed  often,  and  rheumatism  and  ill  health 
for  the  operator,  is  the  price  paid  for  the  doubtful  privilege  of 
making  a  mill  pond  of  the  make-room  floor.  The  old  saying 
that  "a.  penny  earned  is  a  penny  saved"  applies  in  a  modified 
form  to  work  in  a  fa.ctory,  viz.:  Care  in  preventing  dirt  will 
save  the  labor  of  cleaning  it  up. 

43.     SCRUBBING  THE   FLOOR. 

At  the  close  of  the  day's  work,  the  floor  can  be  scrubbed, 
first  with  lukewarm,  and  then  with  hot  water,  and  then  dried  off 
with  a  rubber  mop.     Hot  water  will  make  the  floor  dry  quickly, 


Rubber   Mnp.  Floor   Scrub. 

but  it  should  never  be  used  where  milk  has  been  spilled,  or 
where  milk  or  whey  is  on  tinware,  for  hea.t  will  scald  the 
milk  on. 

44.     SOAPS. 

Powdered  soap,  such  as  "Gold  Dust,"  is  very  effective  in 
taking  out  dirt,  but  it  is  too  expensive  a  form  in  which  to  use 
soap,  as  it  dissolves  readily  and  runs  away.  Salsoda  is  much 
cheaper  a,nd  just  as  effective  for  a  great  many  things,  such  as 
cleaning  the  floor.  A  mixture  of  cheap  soap  and  salsoda  can 
be  dissolved  in  hot  water  and  used  hot  for  scrubbing,  and  then 
afterward  rinsed  off  with  hot  water. 

Sapolio  is  a  soap  mixed  with  infusorial  earth,  which  may 
be  used  for  scouring  tinware. 


Secretion  and  Contamination  of  Milk.  21 

45.  scrubbing  brushes. 

Several  g^ood  stiff  scrubbing  brushes  are  needed  for  getting 
into  corners.  Brushes  are  now  made  in  a  number  of  different 
forms  so  as  to  apply  to  all  conditions.  There  are  round 
brushes  on  long  handles  for  getting  into  pipes  and  tubes,  strong 
brushes  with  sharp  corners  and  round  ends,  and  extra  heavy 
floor  scrubs.     All  these  things  make  the  work  easier. 

46.  TOWELS. 

Clean  towels  and  clean  cloths  for  wiping  the  hands  and 
utensils,  it  would  seem,  are  so  evident  a  need  that  it  may  be 
thought  unnecessary  to  mention  the  fact,  but  the  author's 
experience  in  finding  an  absence  of  them  in  a  large  number  of 
factories  compels  mention  to  be  made. 

47.  WATCH   THE   CORNERS. 

In  scrubbing  the  floor,  the  mop  board  should  not  be  forgot- 
ten, nor  the  doors  and  other  wood  work.  If  the  rnaker  is  care- 
ful in  scrubbing  the  floor  every  day,  a  general  scrubbing  once  a 
week  will  keep  things  looking  bright. 

4S.     SHELVES    FOR   TRINKETS. 

The  windows  should  be  kept  as  clean  as  those  in  a  dwelling 
house,  nor  should  tools  and  little  trinkets  be  laid  on  the  window- 
sills.     There  should  be  shelves  for  all  such  things. 

The  curing  room  should  likewise  be  kept  in  order.  It 
should  not  be  a  dumping  place  for  all  sorts  of  material,  which 
properly  goes  into  the  store  room  above. 

49.     HOW    TO    KILL    MOULDS. 

If  at  the  beginning  of  the  season,  the  walls  are  sprinkled 
with  water,  and  the  room  closed  tight  while  two  or  three 
pounds  of  sulphur  is  burned  in  it,  moulds  will  be  killed. 

60.    ANTISEPTICS. 

A  still  better  way  is  to  wash  the  walls  with  limewater. 
Limewater  is  a  disinfectant,  and  should  be  used  wherever  it  can 
be  applied.  Commercial  sulphate  of  iron,  or  copperas  or  green 
vitriol,  a.s  it  is  commonly  called,  is  also  a  disinfectant,  and 
should  be  put  into  drains  and  places  that  are  likely  to  smell  bad. 

51.     TO   PREVENT   DUST. 

The  boiler  room  must  not  be  neglected.  If  coal  is  used, 
coal  dust  can  be  prevented  by  sprinkling  the  coal  with  water. 


?2  Cheese  Making. 

The  floor  should  be  kept  cleanly  swept,  and  should  be  mopped 
twice  a  week,  or  as  oiten  as  needed.  Tools  should  have  their 
regular  places  and  be  kept  there. 

The  reader  may  think  it  a  waste  of  space  to  talk  about  all 
these  little  matters,  but  experience  has  taught  the  writer  that 
they  are  the  foundation  of  the  business  of  cheese-making;  and 
makers  often  fail,  because  they  do  not  recognize  the  fact. 

It  is  much  easier  to  keep  a  clean  factory  than  a.  dirty  one, 
for  the  old  saying  that  "an  ounce  of  prevention  is  worth  a  pound 
of  cure"  is  true  here,  as  well  as  in  other  cases. 

53.     FACTORY  SURROUNDINGS. 

Having  got  the  inside  of  the  factory  clean,  why  not  make 
the  outside  of  it  to  match?  Plant  some  trees,  and  in  painting 
the  factory,  choose  white  or  some  light  color,  that  will  not 
absorb  but  reflect,  the  heat.  A  little  extra  effort  may  be  put 
into  graveling-  the  roadways,  to  prevent  them  being  cut  up  in 
wet  wea.ther.  Level  off  the  ground  for  a  little  space,  seed  it 
down,  and  cut  the  grass  with  a  lawn-mower.  If  a  dry  spell 
comes  we  have  plenty  of  water  in  our  well,  and  can  sprinkle 
the  lawn  with  our  steam  pump.  These  things  would  take  but 
little  extra  effort,  and  all  will  agree,  that  the  result  would  fully 
repay  the  effort. 

Why  should  it  not  be  the  rule  that  a  cheese  factory  is  to  be 
kept  not  only  clean,  but  attractive  as  well? 

QUESTIONS    ON    CHAPTER    IT. 

1.  Describe  the  structure  of  the  udder.  2.  What  can  be 
said  about  the  secretion  of  the  milk  in  the  udder?  3.  How  do 
samples  of  the  fore  milk  and  strippings  compare  as  to  fat  con- 
tent? 4.  How  is  the  greater  fat  content  of  the  strippings  ex- 
plained? 5.  At  what  time  is  the  milk  secreted?  6.  What  are 
the  three  sources  of  bad  flavors  in  milk?  7.  How  does  the 
flavor  of  food  get  into  the  milk?  8.  Will  warm  milk  absorb 
odors?  9.  What  are  microbes  or  bacteria?  10.  What  can  be 
said  about  the  effect  of  different  germs  on  milk?  11.  What  can  be 
said  about  the  bacillus  known  as  coli  communis?  12.  How 
is  milk  infected?  13.  What  is  the  Wisconsin  Curd  Test  and 
how  is  it  used?  14.  What  is  the  value  of  the  aeration  of  milk? 
15.  Describe  some  of  the  common  aerators.  16.  Wha.t  can  be 
said  of  the  barn  air  at  milking  time?     17.  Why  should  the  cows 


Secretion  and  Contamination  of  Milk.  23 

be  kept  clean?  18.  Why  should  a  cow's  coat  be  dampened  just 
before  milking?  19.  Why  should  milk  be  cooled  after  aerat- 
ing? 20.  Why  should  the  milk  cans  be  covered  over  night? 
21.  Why  should  wooden  milking  pails  not  be  used?  22.  How 
should  utensils  be  washed?  23.  What  is  the  efifect  of  wet  floors 
and  rubber  boots  on  a  maker's  health  ?  24.  How  should  the 
fioor  be  scrubbed?  25.  Why  is  a  clean  towel  needed  in  a  fac- 
tory ? 


Chapter  III. 
MILK  TESTING. 


53.  RAPID   PROGRBSS. 

When  one  stops  to-  think  that  only  fifteen  years  ago,  or  even 
less,  the  only  means  that  a  cheese-maker  had  of  determining 
the  quality  of  milk  was  the  crude  test  tube,  where  the  milk  was 
set  for  the  cream  to  rise,  and  a  lactometer  that  would  read 
good  milk  when  both  skimmed  and  watered,  he  begins  to 
realize  what  great  progress  has  been  made  in  milk  testing  in  so 
short  a  time.  This  great  change  has  been  brought  about  by 
work  done  at  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Stations,  and  this 
one  hne  of  progress  is  paying  large  dividends  on  all  the  money 
that  h,a,s  been  invested  in  them. 

As  indicated  in  Chapter  I  (14)  the  value  of  milk  for  cheese 
making  is  dependent  on  its  fat  content.  "New  coins  are 
handled  with  suspicion,"  and  when  the  new  method  of  paying 
for  milk  according  to  test  came  to  be  advocated,  tarmers  and 
dairymen  were  slow  to  adopt  it  until  they  understood  it.  At 
the  present  time,  probably  70  per  cent  of  the  Cheddar  cheese 
factories  in  Wisconsin  are  paying  for  milk  in  this  way. 

54.  THE   BABCOCK  TEST. 

The  Babcock  test  w.as  invented  by  Dr.  S.  M.  Babcock  of 
the  Wisconsin  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  and  published 
in  Bulletin  No.  24,  July,  1890,  and  is  now  not  only  in  general 
use  in  this  country,  but  is  also  used  in  the  different  countries  of 
Europe,  and  India,  New  Zealand  and  Australia.  It  has  literally 
"gone  round  the  world." 

It  consists  of  four  parts : 

55.  THE   BOTTLE. 

A  bottle  holding  about  two  ounces  and  having  a  long, 
narrow  neck,  about  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil.  On  this  neck  is  a 
scale  covering  a  volume  of  two  cubic  centimeters  marked  off 
into  fifty  divisions.  Every  live  divisions  marks  one  per  cent 
and  each  division  is  therefore  two-tenths  of  one  per  cent. 

24 


'S — 7 


fUcff. 


)t5cfi 


\/ 


I 


Milk  Bottle.  Pipette.  Acid  Measure. 

Babcock  Test  Glassware. 


25 


36  Cheese  Making. 

56.  the  pipette. 

The  pipette  is  a  glass  tube  with  a  bulb  in  the  middle  for 
measuring  the  milk.  There  is  a  mark  on  the  upper  narrow- 
stem  indicating  17.6  c.  c.  which  volume  of  average  milk  would 
weigh  eighteen  grams. 

57.  THE  ACID   MEASURE. 

This  is  a  glass  cylinder  with  a  17.5  c.  c.  mark  on  it  for  meas- 
uring the  sulphuric  acid  used  in  making  the  test. 

58.  THE   CENTRIFUGE. 

This  is  a  machine  for  whorling  the  bottles.  It  consists  of  a 
drum  about  twenty  inches  in  diameter  with  sockets  on  the 
circumference  for  holding  the  bottles.  The  drum  is  encased 
in  a  jacket  and  is  driven  by  a  crank  or  pulley  and  gear,  or  by  a 
steam  motor. 

59.  TO  MAKE  THE  TEST. 

The  milk  to  be  tested  must  be  thoroughly  stirred  to  get  the 
fat  gloubles  evenly  distributed.  This  can  be  done  by  pouring 
from  one  vessel  to  another  several  times.  If  in  the  composite 
test  the  cream  is  somewhat  hardened,  it  can  be  dissolved  by 
warming  the  milk  a  little,  but  this  must  be  done  with  care  as 
the  milk  will  then  churn  easily.  After  the  milk  is  thoroughly 
mixed  draw  it  up  into  the  pipette  by  suction  with  the  mouth, 
and  then  quickly  place  the  finger  over  the  upper  end  of  it.  By 
letting  air  in  slowly  under  the  finger  the  milk  will  run  out  till  it 
comes  down  to  the  17.6  c.  c.  mark.  Then  deliver  the  contents 
into  the  bottle.  Next  measure  17.5  c.  c.  sulphuric  a.cid  into  the 
bottle,  and  by  a  circular  motion  mix  the  acid  and  milk  thor- 
oughly till  the  milk  is  all  dissolved,  that  is,  till  no  clots  are  left. 

Then  put  the  bottle  in  the  centrifuge  and  whorl  five  min- 
utes. At  the  end  of  this  time  the  fat  will  all  be  on  the  top  of  the 
liquid.  Hot  water  is  filled  in  to  bring  the  fat  up  into  the  neck 
where  the  amount  can  be  read  on  the  scale.  It  is  whorled  an- 
other minute  to  bring  the  fat  all  into  the  neck  in  a  solid  mass. 
It  must  be  read  before  it  gets  cold  or  in  a  perfectly  liquid  condi- 
tion. The  bulletin  describing  the  test  says  140°  F.  Better 
results  may  be  obtained  by  first  filling  to  the  neck  and  whorHng, 
and  then  filling  into  the  neck  for  the  final  whorling. 

Several  points  of  caution  should  be  observed  to  get  uni- 
formly clear  readings  and  reliable  tests. 


Hand  power  Centrifuge,  covered 


Hand  power  Centrifuge,  uncovered, 

showing  position  of  bottles 

in  pockets. 


Troemiier's   Balance,   for   testing 
cheese. 


Steam   Turbine  Test,   with   steam 

gauge  and  hot  water 

attachment. 


27 


28  Cheese  Making. 

60.  strength  of  acid. 

First  the  acid  should  be  commercial  sulphuric  acid  of  a 
specific  gravity  of  1.82  to  1.83.  If  too  strong  the  fat  will  be 
charred  and  there  will  be  black  specks  in  the  fat.  If  too  weak, 
there  will  be  either  white  curdy  matter  with  the  fat  or  a  clear 
test  and  not  all  of  the  fat.  Dairy  supply  houses  now  furnish  a 
hydrometer  for  testing  the  specific  gravity  of  the  acid.  If  it  is 
1.81  it  is  too  weak,  and  if  over  1.83  too  strong.  If  the  acid  is 
not  too  much  too  strong  or  too  weak  the  difficulty  can  be 
obviated  by  using  a  little  more  or  less  as  the  case  may  require. 
One  should  observe  the  color  of  the  fat.  It  ought  to  be  a  deep 
straw  or  yellow  color.  If  white  or  light  colored  the  acid  is 
weak,  if  black  it  is  too  strong.  As  a  general  thing  there  is 
little  difficulty  in  getting  good  acid. 

Dr.  Babcock  has  invented  an  automatic  acid  measure  which 
will  fill  the  bottles  with  the  right  amount  directly  from  the  acid 
bottle  as  fast  as  the  bottles  can  be  shaken.  They  should  be 
shaken  one  at  a  time  and  not  in  a  tray  or  in  the  machine, 
together,  as  in  that  case  the  milk  in  some  bottles  is  not  thor- 
oughly dissolved. 

The  acid  should  go  to  the  bottom  of  the  bottle  without 
mixing  with  the  milk  til)  the  final  shaking.  If  it  mixes  par- 
tially and  then  is  allowed  to  stand,  part  of  milk  will  get  the 
effect  of  the  acid  too  strongly,  will  be  charred,  and  appear  in  the 
fat  as  black  specks. 

61.  SPEED   OF    THE    CENTRIFUGE. 

The  speed  of  the  ordinary  tester,  which  is  about  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter,  should  be  about  one  thousand  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  fat  is  forced  to  the  top  of  the  liquid  by  the 
centrifugal  pressure,  and  unless  this  pressure  is  sufficient  all 
the  fat  will  not  be  separated.  If  the  speed  is  too  great  the 
bottles  will  fly  to  pieces.  Dr.  Babcock  does  not  recommend  a 
steam  turbine  test  unless  there  is  a  speed  indicator  attached. 
A  good  many  of  these  machines  are  supplied  with  steam  gauges, 
but  a  steam  gauge  only  indicates  the  pressure  applied  to  the 
drum,  and  does  not  tell  the  speed. 

62.  READING  THE   FAT. 

The  column  of  fat  should  be  read  from  the  bottom  line, 
where  it  meets  the  water,  to  the  highest  point  where  it  joins  the 


Milk  Testing.  29 

glass.  The  upper  surface  is  curved,  and  quite  often  the  test  is 
read  low  by  reading  only  to  the  lower  part  of  the  curve.  It 
should  be  read  as  high  as  the  fat  goes.  The  same  thing  .applies 
when  reading  tests  of  whey.  It  is  quite  often  read  two-tenths 
when  four-tenths  is  the  amount  present.  A  pair  of  dividers  will 
aid  greatly.  Open  them  to  the  full  length  of  the  fat  column, 
then  place  the  lower  point  on  the  zero  line,  and  the  upper  point 
will  show  the  per  cent  present  at  a  gla.nce.  When  reading  with- 
out dividers  errors  in  subtraction  may  occur. 

Skim  milk  test  bottles  with  specially  norrow  necks  may  be 
used. 

C3.     TESTING  CHEESE. 

Cheese  may  be  tested  by  the  Babcock  lest  for  fat  as  well  as 
milk.  In  making  a  milk  test  we  take  17. C  c.  c,  or  18  grams. 
Cheese  contains  about  one-third  fat,  so  tha.t  we  cannot  take  18 
grams;  but  if  we  balance  the  bottle  on  a  small  scale,  such  as 
druggists  use  for  prescriptions,  and  weigh  in  four  or  five  grams 
of  cheese,  there  will  be  a  convenient  amount  for  the  test.  The 
cheese  can  be  cut  into  small  strips  which  will  drop  down  the 
neck  of  the  bottle.  Then  add  fifteen  cubic  centimeters  of  boil- 
ing water  and  a  few  drops  of  ammonia,  and  shake  till  the  cheese 
is  dissolved  into  a  creamy  consistency.  When  the  bottle  is 
cold  add  acid,  and  test  as  though  it  were  milk.  The  reading  of 
the  fat  IS  then  multipHed  by  ^^  ,  a  being  the  weight  of  the 
cheese  taken.  The  quotient  will  be  the  per  cent  of  f,a.t  in  the 
cheese.  If  we  weighed  out  five  grams  of  cheese,  and  the  read- 
ing of  the  fat  is  7.1,  we  have  (7.1  X  18)  -^  5,  or  25.5%  fat  in  the 
cheese. 

A  little  balance  with  weights  and  a  bar,  reading  to  one- 
tenth  of  a  gram,  known  as  Troemner's  balance,  is  sold  by 
chemical  supply  houses  for  about  eight  dollars. 

64.     aUEVENNE    LACTOMETER. 

As  has  been  stated,  the  Quevenne  Lactometer  reads  spe- 
cific gravities  directly.  On  the  scale  are  a  set  of  figures  reading 
from  15  down  to  40.  These  figures  mean  thousandths,  that  is, 
30  means  1.030  specific  gravity.  If  we  have  a  barrel  that  will 
hold  1,000  lbs.  of  water  at  60°  F.,  and  fill  it  with  milk  that  reads 
30  on  our  lactometer,  we  would  have  1,030  lt)s.  of  milk  in  the 
barrel.  Now,  if  the  milk  is  heated  up  above  60°,  one-tenth  of 
a  pound  will  flow  over  the  top  for  each  degree  above  60°  F.,  an*l 


30  Cheese  Making. 

likewise  for  every  degree  the  milk  is  lowered,  a  tenth  of  a  pound 
more  can  be  put  into  the  barrel.  Sixty  has  been  taken  as  an 
arbitrary  standard  of  temperature  for  specific  gravity  of  milk, 
and  we  must  temper  the  milk  near  to  that  point.  If  it  varies  a 
few  degrees,  the  reading  can  be  corrected  by  adding  or  sub- 
tracting one-tenth  to  the  reading  of  the  lactometer  for  every 
degree  of  variation  in  temperature.  Thus :  if  the  lactometer 
reading  is  32,  and  the  temperature  65°,  add  .5  to  32,  which 
would  make  the  corrected  reading  for  60°  32.5.  The  best  lac- 
tometers have  a  thermometer  connected,  and  it  is  not  advisable 
to  use  any  other. 

65.  BOARD   OF  HEALTH   LACTOMETER. 

The  Board  of  Health  Lactometer  has  an  arbitrary  scale 
reading  from  0  to  120;  100  is  a  specific  gravity  of  1.029,  which 
corresponds  to  29  on  the  Quevenne  scale.  This  is  the  lowest 
specific  gravity  known  for  pure  milk,  the  average  being  about 
1.032  sp.  g.  This  scale  can  be  converted  into  the  Quevenne 
scale  by  multiplying  the  reading  by -.29.  By  so  doing  one  can 
use  the  Board  of  Health  instrument  if  a  Quevenne  is  not  avail- 
able. 

66.  DETECTING  WATERED  MILK. 

The  solids  other  than  fat  make  the  milk  denser  and  raise 
the  l,a.ctometer,  while  the  fat  makes  it  lighter  and  lowers  the 
instrument.  Each  per  cent  of  fat  lowers  it  seven-tenths  of  a 
degree.  If  we  multiply  the  per  cent  of  fat  found  by  the  Bab- 
cock  test  and  add  the  product  to  the  lactometer  reading  it  will 
give  the  reading  of  the  milk  if  the  fat  were  not  present.  This  is 
the  way  to  eliminate  the  eflfect  of  the  fat.  If  the  specific  gravity 
of  the  other  solids  is  divided  by  3.8,  the  result  will  be  per  cent 
of  solids  not  fat. 

For  instance,  the  lactometer  reading  is  31.5,  the  tempera- 
ture 65°,  and  the  fat  4  per  cent,  what  is  the  per  cent  of  solids  not 
fat? 

31.5  4-  .5  =  32  +  (4  X  .7  =  2.8)  =  34.8  ^  3.8  =  9.10% 
solids  not  fat. 

If  the  solids  not  fat  run  below  8.5  per  cent  fat  it  is  ver} 
poor  milk  and  may  be  watered. 


Milk  Testing. 


31 


If  8.5  per  cent  solids  not  fat  be  taken  as  a  basis  for  pure 
milk,  and  we  find  but  7.00  per  cent,  the  way  to  get  the  amount 
of  water  added  is  readily  found  by  proportion : 
7.0 :8.5  :  \x  :  100 
8.5a- =  700 
;ir=:.832+ 
From  which  82.3+%  is  the  milk  found  to  be  present  in  the 
sample  or  17.7  per  cent  water  has  been  added. 

When  patrons  are  paid  by  the  fat- test  it  does  not  pay  to  go 
to  the  trouble  of  hauling  water  to  the  factory. 

In  paying  for  milk  by  test,  composite  samples  are  tested  as 
follows : 

67.  COMPOSITE   SAMPLES. 

The  samples  should  be  saved  from  each  patron's  milk  every 
morning  by  stirring  up  the  milk  in  the  weigh  can  with  a  dipper. 
An  ounce  cup  is  then  filled  with  the  milk,  and  turned  into  the 
sample  jar. 

68.  MILK    THIEF. 

A  still  better  way  is  to  take  the  sample  with  a  milk  thief, 
which  is  a  long  tube  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  with 
a  valve  in  the  bottom.  By  lowering  this  into  the 
weigh  can  a  sample  of  the  milk  all  the  way  down 
runs  in  at  the  bottom  and  the  valve  is  closed  by 
striking  the  bottom  of  the  can.  The  tube  is  then 
drawn  out  and  emptied  through  the  upper  end  into 
the  sample  jar. 

G9.     SAMPLE    JARS     SHOULD    BE    MARKED    TO     PRE- 
VENT   MISTAKES. 

Each  jar  has  the  number  of  the  patron  marked 
on  it  with  asphalt  paint,  or  in  some  other  substan- 
tial way. 


70.     MILK   SAMPLES,  HOW  PRESERVED. 

A    small    quantity   of  potassium   bichromate, 
enough  to  color  a  jar  of  milk  a  bright  yellow,  is 
put  into  the  jar,  before  any  milk  is  put  into  it,  and 
this  chemical  will  preserve  the  milk  for  a  week  or 
,      ^     more, 
^^"'s  Milk  Thief         Corrosivc  sublima.te  tablets  sold  by  dealers  in 

used  at  World  s        ,  ■' 

Fair.  dairy   supplies   may   possibly   give   more   satisfac- 

tory results,  but  are  very  poisonous  and  must  be  handled  with  care. 


32 


Cheese  Making. 


At  the  end  of  a  week  the  composite  sample  of  each  patron's 
milk  is  tested,  and  the  reading  of  the  Babcock  test  is  the  per- 
centage of  fat  in  the  whole  of  the  week's  milk. 

For  method  of  making  dividends  according  to  test,  see 
Chapter  XIII. 


Weigh    Can. 
QUESTIONS    ON    CHAPTER    III. 

1..  When  and  by  whom  was  the  Babcock  milk  test  invented? 
2.  Describe  the  test  bottle.  3.  What  is  the  volume  included  in 
the  scale  of  the  milk  bottle  and  how  is  it  divided?  4.  What 
is  the  volume  of  the  pipette  and  what  weight  of  milk  will  it  hold  ? 
5.  What  is  the  volume  of  the  acid  measure?  6.  What,  is  the 
diameter  of  the  centrifuge  drum?  7.  How  is  a  test  made? 
8.  What  kind  and  how  strong  is  the  acid  used?  9.  At  what 
speed  should  the  centrifuge  be  run?  10.  Describe  how  the  fat 
reading  should  be  done.  11.  How  can  cheese  be  tested  with 
the  Babcock  test?  12.  Describe  the  Quevenne  lactometer. 
13.  Describe  the  Board  of  Health  lactometer  and  state  its  rela- 
tion to  the  Quevenne.  14.  How  much  does  each  per  cent  of  fat 
lower  the  lactometer  reading?  15.  Give  method  and  rule  for 
detecting  watered  milk?  16.  What  is  a  composite  sample? 
17.  Describe  the  Scovell  milk-sampling  tube.  18.  How  can 
composite  samples  be  preserved? 


Chapter  IV. 
ENZYMES 


71.     TWO   KIA'DS   OF  FERMENTS. 

As  has  been  previously  described,  bacteria  are  the  cause  of 
the  breaking  up  of  organic  compounds  into  still  other  com- 
pounds; as  for  example,  milk  sugar  into  lactic  acid,  or  into 
alcohol  and  gas.  Such  changes  or  fermentations  are  termed 
organized  ferments  because  they  .axe  the  result  of  the  growth  of 
organisms. 

There  is  another  class  of  changes  which  take  place  as  a 
result,  not  of  bacterial  growth,  but  of  the  action  of  a  chemical 
substance  known  in  contradistinction  to  the  organized  ferments, 
as  unorganized  ferments  or  enzymes.  Such  for  instance  is  a 
substance  found  in  the  saliva  known  as  ptyalin,  which  has  the 
property  of  changing  starch  to  sugar.  In  the  stomach  is  found 
pepsin  which  has  the  property  of  changing  solid  proteids  to 
soluble  peptones,  and  in  the  pancreatic  juices  is  found  trypsin, 
another  enzyme  with  properties  similar  to  pepsin.  These 
enzymes  are  secreted  by  the  protoplasm  of  cells  which  make  up 
the  particular  glands  where  these  enzymes  are  usually  found. 
Bacteria  ha.ve  this  property  of  secreting  enzymes,  and  as  our 
knowledge  of  fermentations  increases  it  may  be  found  that  the 
changes  we  now  suppose  to  be  due  to  the  direct  action  of  the 
living  protoplasm  in  the  cells  of  plants  and  animals,  are  really 
due  to  enzymes  secreted  by  the  protoplasm.  Enzymes  have 
some  characteristics  in  common  in  the  way  they  behave  under 
changes  of  temperature.  They  are  most  active  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  blood  heat  (100°  F.)  and  cease  to  act  at  low  tem- 
peratures, while  at  high  temperatures  (150°  to  200°)  they  are 
destroyed.  The  enzymes  do  not  seem  to  be  used  up  in  their 
action,  but  will  work  over  and  over  again. 

72.     GALACTASE. 

Babcock  and  Russell  have  recently  discovered  the  presence 
of  an  enzyme  in  milk  to  which  they  have  given  the  name  galac- 

33 


34  Cheese  Making. 

tase.  When  milk  was  rendered  sterile  by  chloroform,  upon 
standing-  it  would  curdle  as  though  it  contained  rennet,  and  then 
the  casein  was  digested,  that  is,  it  was  changed  to  soluble  pep- 
tones. Gala.ctase  is  killed  at  a  temperature  of  180°  F.  Its 
optimum  temperature  is  about  100°  F.  They  have  proved  that 
it  is  at  least  the  major  cause  of  the  breaking  down  of  the  casein 
in  cheese  and  its  change  into  soluble  peptones ;  that  is,  it  is  the 
main  cause  of  the  ripening  of  the  cheese. 

73.  RENNET  EXTRACT  AND  PEPSIN. 

Since  very  early  times  an  extract  from  the  calf's  stomach 
has  been  used  to  curdle  milk  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese. 
Such  an  extract  is  supposed  to  contain  two  enzymes,  one  rennin, 
or  the  lab  of  Hammersten,  having  the  property  of  coagulating 
the  milk,  and  the  other,  pepsin,  which  afterward  digests  the  curd. 

The  city  of  Copenhagen,  Denmark,  produces  large  quanti- 
ties of  rennet.  It  is  said  that  5,000,000  rennets  are  annually 
consumed  in  that  city.  Prof.  Alfred  Vivian  and  Mr.  Burt  B. 
Herrick,  instructors  in  the  Ohio  Dairy  School,  have  used  scale 
pepsin  in  cheese  making.  Scale  pepsin  is  made  by  Armour  & 
Co.  of  Chicago  from  stomachs  of  sheep.  It  both  curdles  and 
digests  milk  and  so  raises  the  question  whether  the  curdling 
and  digesting  are  not  really  after  all  two  properties  of  one  fer- 
ment. Scale  pepsin  solutions  do  not  curdle  very  sweet  milk  as 
readily  as  the  rennet  extracts.  Experimentation  will  probably 
reveal  the  cause.  In  milk  containing  2  per  cent  acid  no  dififer- 
ence  can  be  observed.  In  such  milk  five  grams  or  75  grains  of 
the  scale  pepsin  is  equal  to  four  ounces  of  Hansen's  rennet 
extract.  Pepsin  makes  cheese  of  excellent  flavor  and  texture. 
Enough  cheese  has  been  made  to  establish  its  value.  At  the 
time  of  the  revision  of  this  book  experiment  stations  are  at  work 
with  it. 

74.  RENNET— HOW   PRESERVED. 

The  commercial  rennet  is  a  calf's  stomach  which  was  taken 
from  the  calf  at  the  time  it  was  slaughtered,  and  cleaned,  and 
dried. 

The  best  rennets  come  from  Bavaria.  Cheese  makers  used 
to  buy  the  rennets  and  make  their  own  extracts-  as  needed,  and 
the  majority  of  Swiss  cheese  makers  do  so  now,  but  extracts, 
powders   and   tablets   are  now  manufactured  on  an   extensive 


Enzymes  35 

scale,  and  are  much  more  uniform  and  reliable  than  the  old 
homemade  extracts,  as  each  new  lot  of  the  latter  must  neces- 
sarily be  different  in  strength  from  the  last. 

The  prepara.tion  of  rennet  powder  is  too  complicated  a 
process  for  a  cheese  maker  to  follow,  but  one  can  make  his  own 
extract  for  the  season,  if  he  wishes,  as  follows: 

75.  HOW  RENNET  EXTRACT  IS  MADE. 

Prepare  a  sufficient  number  of  rennets,  say  five  hundred, 
by  splitting  them  open  so  that  the  water  can  get  into  them. 
Then  take  an  oak  barrel  and  put  the  rennets  into  it,  and  fill  with 
water  until  they  are  well  covered. 

Possibly  the  barrel  might  be  nearly  filled  with  water,  but 
one  should  not  have  more  water  than  is  necessary  to  dissolve 
the  ferment. 

A  little  salt  should  be  added  to  the  water,  say  three  pounds 
of  salt  to  one  bundled  pounds  of  water.  The  rennets  should 
be  stirred  up  and  pounded  every  day,  to  facilitate  the  solution 
of  the  ferm'ent,  and  at  the  end  of  a  week  the  liquid  should  be 
drawn  off  and  the  rennets  wrung  out  with  a  clothes-wringer. 
They  should  be  put  into  water  again  and  soaked  for  another 
week,  and  the  same  operation  gone  through  with.  As  a.  usual 
thing,  the  ferment  has  not  all  been  extracted  from  the  stomachs 
till  they  have  been  soaked  for  four  weeks.  The  liquid  that  has 
been  obtained  by  soaking  the  rennets  should  be  filtered  through 
clean  straw,  charcoal  and  sand,  and  then  an  excess  of  salt  added 
to  preserve  it. 

The  extract  should  be  clear  though  of  a  dark  color.  The 
first  sign  of  the  decomposition  of  rennet  extract  is  a  muddy 
appearance. 

If  extract  is  ever  prepared  by  the  cheese-maker,  enough  to 
last  the  whole  season  should  be  made  in  the  spring  when  the 
weather  is  cool,  and  then  it  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  place. 

76.     RELIABLE    BRANDS    TO    BE   PREFERRED. 

The  surest  way  of  getting  extract  that  can  be  depended  on, 
is  to  buy  some  reliable  brand. 

The  practice  of  preparing  extract  every  few  days  is  wrong, 
as  the  strength  of  each  new  lot  will  not  be  like  the  last,  and  if 
used  in  about  the  same  quantities  the  cheese  will  not  cure 
evenly.     The  use  of  whey  as  a  solvent  for  the  rennet  is  wrong 


36  Cheese  Making. 

for  reasons  that  are  obvious  after  considering  the  subject  of 
organized  ferments. 

A  comparison  of  extracts  and  their  relative  value  will  be 
taken  up  after  the  rennet  test  has  been  explained. 

We  will  now  enter  upon  a  study  of  the  properties  of  rennin, 
the  curdling-  ferment  of  milk. 

77.  EFFECT  OP  HEAT  ON  RENNET. 

Rennet  will  not  curdle  milk  at  a  very  low  temperature,  but 
as  the  temperature  is  raised  it  will  begin  to  work  and  act  with 
increasing  rapidity  until  at  a  point  above  100°  F.  it  is  injured. 
By  putting  cold  rennet  into  warm  milk  it  may  work  faster  up 
to  120°  or  130°  F.,  but  when  the  rennet  in  weak  solutions  is 
heated  to  105°  F.  it  begins  to  be  injured.  A  strong  solution 
may  be  held  at  150°  for  fifteen  minutes  without  being  entirely 
destroyed,  but  it  will  be  rendered  much  weaker.  These  high 
temperatures  do  not  destroy  the  power  of  the  rennet  insta.ntly 
but  gradually. 

7S.     RENNET   DOES   NOT   EXHAUST   ITSELF. 

As  has  been  said  concerning  enzymes,  rennet  does  not  seem 
to  spend  its  energy,  but  will  act  over  and  over  again.  If  a 
quantity  of  milk  is  coagulated  and  the  whey  applied  to  a  like 
quantity  of  milk,  the  milk  will  be  coagulated ;  this  could  be  done 
indefinitely,  if  it  were  not  for  getting  a  larger  volume  of  whey 
than  we  have  of  milk. 

79.  EFFECT   OF   ACIDITY   ON   THE  ACTION   OF   RENNET. 

It  has  been  said  that  the  rapidity  in  the  action  of  rennet  is 
greatly  afifected  by  the  temperature  of  the  milk,  but  we  will  find, 
if  the  temperature  of  the  milk  is  held  constant,  the  more  lactic 
acid  there  is  in  the  milk  the  faster  the  rennet  will  act,  or  if  any 
acid  be  artificially  added  to  the  milk  in  quantities  not  sufficient 
to  coagulate  it,  the  action  of  the  rennet  will  be  hastened,  and 
on  the  other  hand  if  alkali  be  added  to  the  milk,  the  action  of 
the  rennet  will  be  retarded. 

80.  RENNET   EXTRACTS   NOT   ALIKE. 

Another  cause  for  varying  rapidity  of  action  is  the  differ- 
ence in  the  strength  of  the  rennet  extract  used.  Rennets  vary 
as  to  the  amount  of  ferment  contained  in  them,  and  it  is  very 
unlikely  that  two  lots  of  extracts  will  be  exactly  alike. 


Enzymes. 


37 


81.  RENNET  ACTION  DEPENDENT  ON  THREE  THINGS. 

It  has  been  shown  that  the  rapidity  with  which  rennet 
coagulates  milk  is  dependent  on: 

1.  The  strength  of  the  rennet  extract. 

2.  The  temperature  of  the  milk. 

3.  The  acidity  of  the  milk. 

Now  if  the  same  rennet  is  used  at  the  same  temperature  of 
the  milk  each  time,  the  variation  in  the  rapidity  with  which  it 
coagulates  the  milk,  must  be  due  solely  to  the  acidity  or  ripeness 
of  the  milk. 

82.  J.   B,   HARRIS  DISCOVERS   THE   RENNET  TEST. 

About  ten  years  ago  J.  B.  Harris  conceived  this  idea,  and 
used  a  tea.cupful  of  milk  from  the  vat,  tO'  which  he  added  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  rennet  and  noted  the  number  of  seconds  required 
to  coagulate  the  m.ilk.  When  the  milk  was  ripened  down  to  a 
certain  number  of  seconds,  he  found  that  he  could  foretell 
approximately  the  time  that  it  would  take  for  acid  to  develop. 


_,  '  0  cz. 

Glass  Graduates. 


83.     RENNET  A   POWERFUL,  AGENT. 

But  if  one  stops  a  moment  to  figure  on  it,  he  will  see  that 
rennet  is  a  very  powerful  agent.  If  one  uses  four  ounces  of 
extract  to  one  thousand  pounds  of  milk,  it  is  one  part  of  rennet 


38  Cheese  Making. 

to  four  thousand  of  milk,  and  sometimes  the  proportion  will 
be  as  wide  as  one  to  sixteen  thousand.  It  will  be  easily  seen 
that  since  the  rennet  is  such  a  powerful  agent,  it  is  not  Hkely 
to  be  an  entirely  accurate  test  where  a  teaspoon  is  used  for 
measuring  the  rennet,  for  then  it  would  be  difficult  to  measure 
exactly  twice  alike.  Therefore,  in  place  of  the  teaspoon,  a 
minim  or  dram  graduate  was  substituted,  and  for  the  teacup 
an  eight- ounce  glass  graduate  such  as  druggists  use.  This  was 
much  better  than  the  other  crude  apparatus  for  making  the  test. 

84.  GLASS   GRADUATES   FOR  MEASURING. 

But  the  minim  graduate  is  funnel  shaped,  and  the  top  being 
broad  in  proportion  to  its  volume,  the  chances  for  error  are  still 
too  great  in  measuring.  Tn  actual  practice  through  haste  in 
making  the  test,  two  or  three  drops  of  extract  were  likely  to  be 
left  in  the  narrow  bottom  of  the  minim  graduate,  and  the  maker 
would  be  confused  in  not  getting  the  results  he  expected  by 
depending  on  it. 

J.  H.  Monrad  then  proposed  a  new  set  of  apparatus,  which, 
though  not  so  simple,  leaves  less  chance  for  error. 

85.  THE  MONRAD  RENNET  TEST. 

The  apparatus  for  the  Monrad  test  consists  of  a  160  c.  c.  tin 
cyHnder  for  measuring  the  milk,  a  5  c.c.  pipette,  a.  50  c.  c.  glass 
flask,  and  a  half  pint  tin  basin.  By  filling  the  tin  cyhnder  full  it 
always  gives  the  right  measure  of  milk  quickly.  Measuring  the 
milk  in  a  glass  graduate  is  difficult,  as  it  is  hard  to  get  the  milk 
just  to  the  mark,  and  if  the  glass  is  covered  with  white  milk  it  is 
difficult  to  see  the  mark. 

The  rennet  is  first  measured  with  the  5  c.  c.  pipette.  A 
pipette  (as  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  illustration)  is  a 
glass  tube  with  a  mark  on  it  indicating  the  volume  of  5  c.  c, 
and  the  rennet  can  very  easily  be  measured  to  the  mark,  and  the 
tube  being  narrow  makes  the  measurement  accurate.  The  ren- 
net in  the  pipette  is  delivered  into  the  50  c.  c.  flask,  and  what 
little  rennet  adheres  to  the  inside  of  the  pipette  is  rinsed  into 
the  flask.  This  is  then  filled  with  water  to  the  50  c.  c.  mark  on 
the  neck,  and  the  solution  mixed  by  shaking.  The  milk,  the 
temperature  of  which  should  be  86°  F.,  measured  in  the  tin 
cylinder,  is  emptied  into  the  half  pint  basin,  and  5  c.  c.  of  the 
dilute  extract  is  measured  into  the  160  c.  c.  of  milk,  and  the 


ExZVMliS. 


39 


number  of  seconds  require.l  b.  cnr.lle  it  noiol.  ll  a  lew  specks 
of  charcoal  are  scattered  ..n  die  milk  and  the  nnlk  started  mto 
„i,,li..n  around  the  .lish  with  a  thermometer,  the  instant  of 
curdling  can  Ix-  n..trd  l.y  the  stopping  of  the  specks.  TlK-y  will 
stop  so  su.ldenly  as  to  seem  to  start  back  in  the  opposite  dn-ec- 


Monrad  Rennet  Test. 

.s({.    rsE  TiiERMO^ir/rKu  TO  srilt   mii.k. 

Hv    using   a    thermometer,    the    temi)er; 
stamly    watched;    and    it    the    tenn>erature 
quickly  be  In'oughl  back  to  SC,     \- .  by  seltin-. 
of  warm  water  for  fi\e  seconds. 

.ST.     Tin:    M AI«S«  II  \I,I,    ur.WKT    TIOST. 

.\nother  mgenious  form  of  rennet  te>t 
great  manv  factories  is  the  Marscliail  test, 
time.  It  consists  of  an  ounce  bottle  with  a 
cate  '20  c.  c;  and  a  spatula  for  stirring  the  ir 
is  used  for  measuring  rennet  into  the  bottle  i 
up  to  the  mark  r.n  the  bottle:  a  tes^  basin,  w 
little  over  a  pint   capacity,  on  the   inner  su 


lur 

•    I. 

an 

be 

con- 

hoi 

1.1 

fall 

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can 

llK 

b; 

isin 

in  ; 

I  j)ail 

wliich 

is   nsi 

'd 

m  a 

as  it   k 

eeps  i 

is 

own 

mark 

m  it  t 

<» 

indi- 

lilk  :  a 

1   C.C. 

pi 

pette 

n  whic 

h  it  is 

.li 

luted 

hich  i.s 

a  ves 

of  a 

rface  . 

)f  whi 

ch 

IS  a 

40 


Cheese  Making. 


scale  beginning  with  0  at  the  top  and  numbering  by  hah'  divi- 
sions to  7  near  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  A  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel  is  fitted  with  a  cork  in  which  is  inserted  a  glass 
tube  of  very  fine  bore. 

SS.     HOW  TO  U.SE  THE  TEST. 

To  make  a  test  the  vessel  is  filled  with  milk  at  the  desired 
temperature,  and  when  the  milk  lias  drained  through  the  little 
glass  tube  until  the  top  is  at  the  0  mark,  the  diluted  rennet  is 
stirred  in  with  the  spatula.  When  the  rennet  thickens  the 
milk   sufficiently  no   more  milk   will  run   out  and  the  operator 


A — firadiKitod    Lup. 

B— 1  c.  c.   Pipette. 

C — Glass  in   which  to  dilute  the  rennet. 

D— Spatula   for   stirring   tlic   milk. 


notes  the  point  on  tlu'  scale  down  t(-)  which  the  milk  has  run. 
The  riper  the  milk  the  t|uicker  will  the  milk  thicken  with  a 
corresponding  less  rcadiui;-  on  the  .^cale. 

SJK     MAR.SCHAI-I.   TE.STS    XOT   ALIKE. 

Unfortunately  the  caliber  of  the  glass  tubes  in  the  bottom 
of  these  tests  varies  so  that  var\-ing  amounts  of  milk  will  run 
out  from  dififerent  Marschall  tests.  One  may  compare  results 
with  the  same  test  from  one  day  to  another,  but  a  great  deal  of 
confusion  results  from  comparing  dififerent  Marschall  tests. 


Enzymes.  41 

so.  errors  to  be  avoided  with  marschajll,  apparatus. 

1.  As  there  is  no  thermometer  included  in  the  Marschall 
apparatus  the  operator  is  Hkely  to  forget  that  temperature 
affects  the  rennet  action.  One  should  always  temper  the  vessel 
before  using  in  cold  weather,  and  should  carefully  observe  the 
temperature  of  the  milk,  both  when  starting  the  test  and  at  the 
time  of  coagulation.  A  few  degrees  in  temperature  will  modify 
the  results  very  materially. 

2.  One  should  exercise  great  care  in  running  the  milk  into 
the  milk  in  the  vat.  Where  a  large  number  of  tests  are  made 
the  rennet  in  the  vat  may  coagulate  the  milk. 

3.  Do  not  compare  the  results  with  two  pieces  of  apparatus 
without  first  testing  them  on  the  sa.me  milk. 

QUESTIONS  ON  CHAPTER  IV. 

1.  What  are  the  two  general  classes  of  ferments.?  2.  What 
are  enzymes  and  where  do  they  originate?  3.  What  is  the 
effect  of  temperature  on  enzymes?  4.  Who  discovered  galac- 
tase  and  where  is  it  found  ?  5.  Describe  galactase.  6.  What  is 
a  rennet?  7.  How  are  rennets  preserved?  8.  What  is  rennet 
extract?  9.  Where  do  the  best  rennets  come  from?  10.  What 
is  scale  pepsin?  11.  What  is  the  effect  of  acidity  of  milk  upon 
the  curdling  power  of  pepsin?  12.  How  does  Armour's  scale 
pepsin  compare  in  strength  with  Hansen's  rennet  extract?  13. 
How  is  rennet  extract  made?  14.  Why  are  reliable  brands  of 
extract  to  be  preferred?  IS.  What  is  the  effect  of  heat  on  ren- 
net action?  16.  What  is  the  effect  of  acidity  on  rennet  action? 
3  7.  On  what  three  factors  is  the  rapidity  of  rennet  action  de- 
pendent? 18.  Who  invented  the  rennet  test?  19.  Why  are 
glass  graduates  used  in  a  rennet  test  inaccurate?  20.  Describe 
the  Monrad  test.  21.  Describe  the  Marschall  rennet  test.  22. 
In  what  respect  are  Marschall  tests  not  alike  ?  23.  What  errors 
are  to  be  avoided  in  using  a  Marschall  test? 


Chapter  V. 
THE   DEPORTMENT   OF  RENNET. 


91.  EXPERIMENTS   IN   RENNET   ACTION. 

That  the  student  may  better  comprehend  the  deportment 
of  rennet  under  different  conditions,  a  few  statements  are  made 
about  the  effect  of  the  various  conditions  to  which  it  may  be 
subjected,  together  with  experiments  suggested  with  the  appa- 
ratus used  in  the  Monrad  test,  for  demonstrating  the  truth  of 
the  statements  made. 

92.  EFFECT  OF  ACID  AND   ALKALI. 

Acid  in  the  milk  accelerates  and  alkali  retards  coagulation. 

Experiment  (a).  Make  a  test  of  a  sample  of  milk,  observing 
carefully  all  conditions  as  to  temperature,  strength  of  rennet, 
etc.  Mark  down  in  a  notebook  the  result.  Now  add  a  small 
quantity  of  dilute  hydrochloric  acid  to  the  milk,  being  careful 
to  stir  it  constantly  while  slowly  adding  the  acid.  If  in  a  labor- 
atory where  decinormal  solutions  of  acid  and  alkali  are  available, 
use  about  25  c.  c.  of  acid  to  a  quart  of  milk,  and  note  the  number 
of  seconds  required  to  coagulate  when  a  test  is  made,  carefully 
observing  all  of  the  conditions  for  making  a  test  properly. 

Experiment  (b).  Repeat  the  experiment  with  an  increased 
quantity  of  acid  added  to  the  milk. 

Experiment  (c).  Add  slowly  a  small  quantity  of  dilute 
soda  lye,  being  careful  to  stir  the  milk  while  adding  it,  and  then 
make  a  test  as  before.    Keep  careful  notes  in  your  note  book. 

Experiment  (d).  Make  a  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of  milk 
and  set  it  where  it  will  remain  warm.  Make  tests  half  an  hour 
or  an  hour  later  and  note  that  less  time  is  required  for  coagula- 
tion. This  is  due  to  the  ripening  of  the  milk — or  a.s  the  scientist 
looks  at  it,  the  bacteria  present  have  been  turning  the  milk 
sugar  into  lactic  acid. 

93.  EFFECT   OF   WATER  IN  MILK. 

Diluting  milk  with  water  retards  coagulation. 
Experiment  (a).     Make  a  careful  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of 
milk.     Next  take  one  part  of  water  and  three  parts  of  the  milk 

42 


The  Deportment  of  Rennet.  43 

in  question.  Mix  them  and  then  make  a  rennet  test  of  the 
mixture. 

Experiment  (b).  Repeat  the  experiment  with  one  part  of 
water  and  two  parts  of  milk. 

Experiment  (c).  Repeat  the  experiment  with  one  part  of 
water  and  one  part  of  milk.  Can  you  determine  any  law  gov- 
erning the  rate  of  coagulation  in  relation  to  the  amount  of  water 
present?     Try  these  experiments  with  milks  of  different  acidity. 

04.    THE   EFFECT  OF   SALT   (NaCl). 

Salt  in  the  milk  checks  the  action  of  rennet,  five  per  cent 
stopping  it  altogeter. 

Experiment  (a).  Make  a  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of  milk, 
and  make  a  careful  note  of  the  result.  Now  .a.dd  by  weight  one 
per  cent  of  salt  and  make  a  careful  rennet  test.  How  does  the 
salt  afTect  the  test?  Try  the  same  experiment  with  two,  three, 
four  and  five  per  cent  of  salt  in  the  milk. 

95.  THE    EFFECT    OF    TEMPERATURE. 

Raising  the  temperature  hastens,  and  lowering  it  retards 
rennet  action. 

Experiment  (a).  Make  a  rennet  test  at  the  standard  tem- 
perature of  86°  F.,  and  write  it  down  in  your  notebook.  Now 
make  tests  at  95°,  100°,  110°,  120°,  130°  and  140°. 

Experiment  (b).  Make  a  test  at  86°  a.nd  then  try  tests  at 
80°,  70°,  60°,  50°  and  40°.  If  much  time  is  consumed  in  making 
the  tests,  the  student  should  make  occasional  tests  at  86°  F.  to 
detect  the  rate  of  ripening  of  the  milk. 

96.  EFFECT    OF    ANAESTHETICS. 

Anaesthetics,  like  chloroform  and  ether,  suspend  proto- 
plasmic action  but  do  not  afifect  enzymes.  In  this  way  it  is 
possible  to  distinguish  between  organized  and  unorganized 
ferments. 

Experiment  (a).  Make  a  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of  milk 
and  note  the  number  of  seconds  required.  Now  add  about 
3  per  cent  of  chloroform  to  the  sample  and  sha.ke  it  in  a  bottle 
or  cylinder.  Next  make  a  test  of  it.  It  curdles  the  milk  and 
rennet  is  therefore  an  enzvme. 


44  Cheese  Making. 

07.  thermal,  destruction  point. 

At  about  104°  or  105°  F.  rennet  in  weak  solutions  is  di'- 
stroyed. 

Experiment  (a).  Make  a  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of  milk 
and  note  the  number  of  seconds  required.  Next  heat  the  rennet 
test  solution  of  rennet  to  100°  for  ten  minutes  a.nd  try  a  test 
with  it  on  the  same  milk.  Try  heating  it  to  105°,  110°,  115° 
and  130°  for  five  minutes  and  make  tests  after  each  heating. 
Do  not  forget  to  record  results  in  your  notebook. 

Experiment  (b).  Note  the  length  of  time  required  to 
coagulate  160  c.  c.  of  milk  at  86°  F.  with  5  c.  c.  of  strong  com- 
mercial rennet  extract.  Next  heat  a  portion  of  this  strong 
rennet  to  150°  F.  for  five  minutes  and  then  note  the  length  of 
time  required  for  coagulating  160  c.  c.  of  milk  at  86°  F.  with 
5  c.  c.  of  it. 

98.  EFFECT   OF   STRENGTH  OF  RENNET   SOLUTION. 

For  a  long  time  it  was  supposed  that  as  the  strength  of  the 
rennet  solution  was  increased,  the  length  of  time  required  for 
coagulation  was  inversely  shortened.  This,  however,  is  not 
true. 

Experiment  (a).     Make  a  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of  milk. 

1.  Make  up  a  new  solution  of  rennet,  using  two  5  c.  c. 
pipettes  of  rennet  in  the  50  c.  c.  fla.sk.  This  makes  the  rennet 
solutioti  double  in  strength,  but  the  time  required  for  coagula- 
tion in  a  test  is  what  ? 

2.  Make  up  a  solution  with  three  pipettes  or  15  c.  c.  of 
rennet  in  the  50  c.  c.  and  make  a  test. 

3.  Make  up  a  solution  with  four  pipettes  or  20  c.  c.  in  the 
50  c.  c.     W'hat  are  the  results? 

4.  Try  it  with  25  c.  c.  of  strong  rennet  diluted  to  50  c.  c. 
It  is  suggested  that  the  student  secure  a  piece  of  charting  paper 
and  chart  out  the  results  here  obtained.  If  the  rate  of  coagula- 
tion was  diminished  inversely  in  proportion  to  the  increase  in 
strength  the  results  of  these  tests  would  when  recorded,  make 
a  diagonal  straight  line  a.cross  the  chart,  whereas  they  really 
make  a  curved  line. 

99.  SOLUBLE   CALCIUM  SALTS   REaUIRBD   FOR  RENNET  ACTION. 

It  has  been  previously  stated  (8)  that  the  soluble  salts  of 
calcium  must  be  present  in  the  milk  or  the  rennet  will  not  act. 


The  Deportment  of  Rennet.  46 

Take  a.  Babcock  pipette  of  the  pepsin  solution,  add  three 
or  four  drops  of  phenolphtalein  solution  and  titrate  with  -^- 
alkali.     Do  the  same  with  rennet  extract. 

Experiment  (a).  Make  a  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of  milk. 
Add  a  small  quantity  of  a  dilute  solution  of  calcium  chloride. 
(Ca  CI2)  to  the  milk  and  make  another  test.  The  coagulation 
will  be  accelerated.     How  much? 

Experiment  (b).  Heat  a  portion  of  the  sample  of  milk  to 
190°  F.  for  ten  minutes,  cool  it  down  and  make  a.  test.  It  will 
not  coagulate  for  the  calcium  salts  have  been  rendered  insoluble 
by  the  heat. 

Experiment  (c).  To  a  pint  of  the  original  sample  of  milk 
add  25  c.  c.  of  a  strong  solution  of  ammonium  oxalate,  a.nd  make 
a  rennet  test.  It  will  not  coagulate  because  the  soluble  calcium 
salts  have  been  changed  to  insoluble  calcium  oxalate. 

100.  EFFECT    OP    AIIIiK    PRESERVATIVES. 

There  is  a  very  pernicious  practice  among  dairymen  of 
using  antiseptics  to  keep  milk  from  souring.  Among  them  are 
preservaline  (boracic  acid)  and  formaldehyde  solution  sold  under 
the  name  of  freezene,  etc.  These  substances  not  only  check 
the  necessary  bacterial  fermentations  in  the  manufacture  of  the 
cheese,  but  affect  the  rennet  action. 

Experiment  (a).  Make  a  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of  milk. 
Then  add  1  per  cent  of  boracic  acid  to  the  sample  and  make  a 
rennet  test.     Try  varying  quantities  of  the  boracic  acid. 

Experiment  (b).  Make  a  rennet  test  of  a  sample  of  milk 
and  then  add  1  per  cent  of  formalfne  (formaldehyde  solution) 
to  the  milk  and  make  a  test.  Try  it  with  one-tenth  of  1  per  cent 
of  formaline  in  the  milk. 

Question :     Should    milk    doctored    with    preservatives    be 
received  at  a  cheese  factory? 
101.     Scale  pQpsin  compared  with  rennet. 

101.  SCALE   PEPSIN   COMPARED   WITH   REIVWET. 

Dissolve  four  grams  of  Armour's  scale  pepsin  in  100  c.  c.  of 
cold  water.  Now  make  rennet  tests  with  this  on  milks  of  vary- 
ing acidity,  at  the  same  time  making  tests  with  rennet  extract 
on  the  same  milks  for  comparison. 


46  Cheese  Making. 

QUESTIONS  ON   CHAPTER   V. 

1.  What  is  the  effect  of  add  in  the  milk  on  rennet  action? 
2.  What  is  the  effect  of  alkali  on  rennet  action?  3.  What  is 
the  effect  of  water  in  the  milk  on  rennet  action?  4.  What  is  the 
effect  of  salt  in  the  milk  on  rennet  action?  5.  What  is  the  effect 
of  temperature  on  rennet  action?  6.  At  what  temperature  is 
rennet  destroyed?  7.  What  is  the  effect  of  anaesthetics  on  ren- 
net? 8.  Is  the  time  of  curdling  milk  inversely  proportional  to 
the  strength  of  the  rennet  solution?  9,  Wha.t  part  of  the  ash 
of  the  milk  is  required  for  rennet  action?  10.  What  is  the  effect 
of  boracic  acid  on  rennet  action?  11.  What  is  the  effect  of 
formaline  on  rennet  action?  13.  What  is  the  effect  of  acidity 
of  milk  on  the  curdling  power  of  the  pepsin  solution  ?  13.  What 
do  you  find  the  chemical  reaction  of  the  pepsin  solution  and 
rennet  extract  to  be  ? 


Chapter  VI. 
CHEDDAR   CHEESE. 


102     HISTORY  OF  CHEDDAR  CHEESE. 

For  some  centuries  cheese  has  been  made  in  the  farm  dairies 
in  England  arid  Scotland,  and  the  people  that  came  to  America 
continued  the  manufacture  at  home  of  their  surplus  milk  into 
cheese.  The  process  varied  in  different  dairies  and  our  British 
cousins  have  been  particularly  jealous  of  their  way  of  making, 
being  careful  not  to  give  away  any  of  their  secrets  as  they 
believed  them  to  be.  The  term  Cheddar  came  from  a  town  of 
that  name  near  Bristol. 

103.  RISE    OP   FACTORY   SYSTEM   IN   NEW   YORK. 

The  factory  system  started  in  America.  Jesse  WiUiams, 
of  Oneida  County,  New  York,  was  the  first  factory  operator. 
In  1851  he  and  his  sons,  located  on  different  farms,  brought 
their  milk  together  and  it  was  made  into  cheese  under  his  super- 
vision. From  this  start  the  factory  system  developed  in  New 
York  and  was  carried  into  other  states  and  Canada. 

104.  IN    OHIO. 

In  Ohio  the  first  factory  was  built  by  Mr.  Budlong,  at 
Chardon,  Geauga  County,  in  1800.  The  second  one  was  built 
by  Mr.  Bartlett  at  Munson,  Geauga  County,  in  1861.  In  1862 
John  I.  Eldridge  built  the  third  one  in  Aurora  Township, 
Portage  County.  The  building  is  yet  standing,  but  is  not  in  use 
at  this  time  as  a  new  building  close  by  has  taken  its  place.  In 
1863  Hurd  Bros,  built  a  factory  at  Aurora  Station,  which  has 
been  in  continual  operation  to  the  present  time.  After  1863 
the  factories  multiplied  in  Ohio  very  rapidly. 

105.  IN    WISCONSIN. 

In  Wisconsin  the  factory  system  started  in  about  1864, 
when  Chester  Hazen  started  a  factory  at  Ladoga,  Fond  du  Lac 
County,  and  Steven  Faville  started  one  near  Wa.tertown.  At 
the  present  time  there  are  about  sixteen  hundred  factories  in 
the  state,  of  which  number  probably  about  eleven  hundred  make 
Cheddar  cheese,  the  others  being  brick,  Swiss  and  Limburger. 

47 


48 


Cheese  Making. 


106.     TWO    PROCESSES    OF   MANUFACTURE. 

There  are  two  processes  of  manufacture,  one  being  the 
granular  system,  in  which  the  curd  is  kept  in  the  granular  form 
from  the  time  the  whey  is  drawn  until  put  to  press;  and  the 
matting  system,  in  which  the  curd  is  allowed  to  mat  into  a  solid 
mass  as  soon  as  the  whey  is  removed,  and  is  afterward  milled  to 
get  it  into  a  condition  for  salting  before  pressing. 


'1^  50unce"BoUle."Measur« 

Farrington's    apparatus   for   determining   quickly   milk   of   .2   per   cent   acidity. 

107.  CHEDDAR   SYSTEM    PROPER. 

The  latter  system  in  which  the  curd  is  matted  is  termed 
the  Cheddar  System.  It  produces  a  more  meaty  texture  and 
uniform  grade  of  cheese  and  is  superseding  the  granular  system. 

The  Cheddar  system  as  improved  in  the  United  States  and 
Canada  has  been  introduced  into  Scotland  and  England  through 
Mr,  Drummond,  an  American,  in  charge  of  the  Kilmarnock 
dairy  school. 

The  following  pages  will  treat  of  the  best  methods  as  we 
know  them  today  for  making  Cheddar  cheese.  . 

FIRST  STEPS  IN  CHEESE  MAKING. 

108.  TEST  FOR  OVER-RIPE   MILK. 

Milk  that  has  more  than  two-tenths  of  1  per  cent  of  lactic 
acid  should  not  be  received  for  cheese  making.  But  as  milk 
will  not  t.a.ste  sour  until  there  is  three-tenths  of  1  per  cent  of  acid 
in  it,  it  is  difficult  to  know  by  the  taste  when  to  reject  such  milk. 


Cheddar  Cheese.  49 

The  Farrington  acid  test  can  here  be  brought  into  use  and 
the  discrimination  quickly  made.  The  apparatus  consists  of  a 
white  teacup,  an  eight-ounce  salt  mouthed  bottle  with  a  cork 
in  it,  and  a.  measure  made  by  soldering  a  wire  handle  onto  a 
No.  10  brass  cartridge  shell.  Eight  Farrington  alkaline  tablets 
are  dissolved  in  the  eight-ounce  bottle  of  water,  which  makes 
a  red  liquid.  A  measure  of  the  suspected  milk  is  put  into  the 
teacup  and  then  two  measures  of  the  red  liquid  added.  If  on 
stirring  it,  the  pink  shade  remains,  there  is  not  two-tenths  of  a 
per  cent  of  acid  present  and  the  milk  can  be  accepted.  If  on  the 
other  hand  the  pink  color  disappears  there  is  too  much  acid 
present  and  the  milk  should  be  rejected. 

109.     STIR  MIIK  TO  KEEP  CREAM  DOWN. 

While  the  milk  is  being  received  it  should  be  stirred  in  the 
vat  to  keep  the  cream  down.  As  soon  as  the  milk  has  all  been 
received  and  the  qua.ntity  figured  up,  the  steam  should  be 
turned  on  and  the  milk  heated  to  86°  F.,  and  a  rennet  test  made. 
If  the  cheese  maker  is  suspicious  that  the  milk  may  be  over- 
ripe, he  should'  make  a  rennet  test  before  the  milk  in  the  vat  is 
heated  up  to  86°  F.,  by  taking  his  sample  for  the  rennet  test  in 
the  basin  in  which  the  test  is  made  and  warming  it  up  in  a  pail 
of  warm  water. 

If  the  milk  is  found  to  be  over-ripe,  he  will  have  to  hurry 
the  process  to  keep  ahead  of  the  fermenta.tion.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  he  finds  the  milk  very  sweet,  and  that  he  will  have  to 
wait  an  hour  or  more  for  it  to  ripen  down,  he  should  use  a 
starter. 

110.     RIPENING  THE  MILK. 

Jf  the  milk  is  ripened  so  as  to  coagulate  in  the  same  num- 
ber of  seconds  each  day,  one  can  tell  very  closely  the  time  when 
the  whey  can  be  drawn  ofi  from  the  curd.  It  should  be  ripened 
to  a  point  where  in  two  hours  from  the  time  the  rennet  is  added 
to  the  milk  there  will  be  "one-eighth  of  an  inch  of  acid"  on  the 
curd,  as  we  shall  see  later  on. 

With  the  rennet  extract  we  have  been  using  at  the  D,airy 
School,  the  milk  when  ripened  to  thirty  seconds  works  off  in 
about  the  right  lime,  but  the  extract  is  very  strong,  one  ounce 
being  sufficient  to  coagulate  one  thousand  pounds  of  milk  in 
twenty  minutes.     If,  however,  our  rennet  extract  was  so  weak 


50  Cheese  Making. 

that  it  would  take  four  ounces  of  it  to  coagulate  one  thousand 
pounds  of  the  same  milk  in  twenty  minutes,  it  would  be  only 
one-fourth  as  strong  as  the  rennet  we  have  been  using,  and 
the  milk  would  then  have  to  be  ripened  so  as  to  coagulate  in 
one  hundred  and  twenty  seconds  instead  of  thirty. 

111.  HOW   TO   RIPEN  MILK  TO   THE  RIGHT   POINT. 

Starting  in  with  the  season's  work  the  cheese  maker  has 
nothing  to  guide  him  as  to  the  ripeness  of  the  milk,  simply 
because  he  does  not  know  the  strength  of  the  rennet  extract  at 
his  disposal.  The  first  day  he  makes  cheese,  he  must  make 
a  rennet  test  of  his  milk  at  the  time  he  sets  it  and  then  observe 
how  the  milk  acts.  If  the  milk  is  too  sweet,  he  can  calculate 
about  how  much  riper  it  must  be  to  work  just  right,  and  in  a 
few  days  he  will  have  the  matter  entirely  under  his  control. 
Cheese  makers  should  never  neglect  to  use  the  rennet  test,  for 
it  enables  them  to  judge  definitely  the  condition  of  their  milk. 

W'hen  a  maker  is  troubled  with  tainted  milk  it  is  often 
necessary  to  ripen  a  little  lower  than  with  good  milk,  for  the 
bad  flavor,  as  we  have  already  learned,  is  due  to  some  harmful 
variety  of  bacteria  which  choke  out  the  lactic  ferments. 

112.  DEFINITION  OF  A   STARTER. 

A  starter  is  simply  a  small  quantity  of  milk  in  which  the 
lactic  fermentation -has  been  allowed  to  develop,  and  there  are 
therefore  millions  upon  millions  of  the  desired  kinds  of  bacteria 
in  it,  and  when  these  are  put  into  the  milk  in  the  vat,  they  in- 
crease very  rapidly  and  hasten  the  ripening  of  the  milk. 

113.  WHAT  TO   USE  FOR  A  STARTER. 

The  starter  should  be  saved  from  some  patron's  milk  from 
the  morning  or  evening  before,  and  should  always  be  the  best 
flavored  milk,  for  the  whole  vat  will  be  made  like  it. 

By  adding  about  half  water  to  the  starter  milk  in  the  even- 
ing it  will  not  curdle  so  but  that  it  will  mix  nicely  in  the  vat. 

From  what  has  been  previously  said  (30)  it  will  be  ob- 
served that  the  milk  selected  as  above  is  not  sure  to  be  the  kind 
of  milk  desired.  If  the  Wisconsin  curd  test  is  used  the  milk 
that  habitually  gives  good  curds  can  be  selected.  Even  in  that 
case  a  bad  fermentation  may  get  in.  The  surest  way  of  getting 
a  good  starter  is  to  use  a  lactic  ferment  culture. 


CllliiUDAK    CllEESli.  51 

114.     LACTIC    FERMENT    STAUTIOK. 

Lactic  ferment  is  a  culture  placed  on  the  market  by  Chr. 
Hansen's  Laboratory,  Little  Falls,  X.  Y.  It  is  sold  in  large  ami 
small  bottles.  The  small  bottles  cost  less  and  are  just  as  good 
as  the  large  ones,  tor  we  can  grow  tiie  culture  ourselves  if  we 
once  get  a  start.  One  or  two  i|uarts  (jf  milk  should  be  selected 
a^  above  and  heated  to  •2tMi  K.  fijr  hfteen  minutes  and  then 
cooled  to  TO'  V.  The  contents  of  the  bottle  should  be  added  to 
the  pasteurized  milk.  In  twenty-four  hours,  if  kept  warm,  the 
milk  will  1)1'  sour  and  just  al  the  curdling  point. 

.\n()llier  lot  of  milk',  in  (|uantity  as  much  as  reciuired  for  a 
2  per  cent  starter  in  our  vat,  should  be  selected  as  before  and 
heated  to  -iiMi  I'",  for  lificen  minutes,  and  then  cooled  to  70"  F. 
and  the  startaline  added.  In  iwenty-iour  liours  it  will  be  ready 
to  use.  A  little  is  saved  each  day  to  make  new  starter.  The 
starter  should  alwa\s  be  handled  in  sterile  vessels.  If  care  is 
taken  not  to  contaminate  the  starter,  it  can  be  propagated  in  a 
ver\-  i)ure  state  through  a  whole  season.  Carelessness  in  hand- 
ling it  will  infect  it  with  other  germs,  which  will  spoil  it  and  it 
will  bo  lu-cessarv  to  start  over  again. 

113.     WII.VT   XOT   TO   ISE   FOU    X    .ST.VHTIOIl. 

A  starter  should  not  be  saved  from  the  vat  oi  milk  nor  the 
whey,  for  the  starter  will  then  be  likely  to  contain  all  sorts  of 
germs,  good,  bad  and  indifferent,  and  these  will  all  be  trans- 
mitted from  OIK'  da\'s  milk-  to  the  next:  in  fact,  a  bad  disi-ase 
might  be  carried  through  the  milk  in  this  way  for  a  whole  sea- 
son. Thick  milk  may  be  used  for  a  starter,  if  one  is  hard 
pressed,  but  it  is  belter  not  to  let  the  starter  get  quite  thick.  If 
the  starter  is  thick,  it  should  be  strained  carefully  through  a, 
cloth  strainer,  for  if  clots  of  thick  starter  get  into  the  vat  of  milk, 
they  will  not  be  colored  and  nia\-  Ie,-i\e  white  specks  in  the  curd. 

Milk  should  be  ripened  to  a  point  where  in  two  hours  from 
the   time   the   rennet    is   added   to   the   milk,  there   will   be  one^ 
ei.ghth  (')f  an  inch  of  acid  on  the  curd.     What  is  meant  l)y  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  of  acid  will  be  explained  further  on. 
ii<;.    >iii,i\:  Ml"'!'  \(>'i'  hi:  TOO  kiim:. 

Milk  should  never  be  allowed  t(:)  ripen  to  a  point  where  it 
will  wiirk  too  fast.  Tn  such  ca.ses  there  will  be  too  great  a  loss 
of  fat  in  the  whe\-.  and  a  sn'all  \  ii'ld  of  cheese. 


52  CriKiisii;  Making. 

117.    Anni.\<;  thk  coi.ou. 

L'lUil  lately  cheese  color  has  been  made  from  the  annatto 
seed  grown  in  South  America.  Cheaper  and  stronger  color  is 
now  bemg  made  from  aniline,  a  coal  tar  product.  The  public 
seems  to  be  prejudiced  against  mineral  coloring,  but  there  is  so 
little  of  it  in  the  cheese  that  we  doubt  if  it  is  injurious  to  health. 
Personally  we  like  the  looks  of  an  uncolored  cheese  best. 

DifTercnt  markets  require  different  shades.  It  sc.'nis  to  be 
a  genera.l  rule  that  the  further  south  we  go  the  higlier  the  color 
that  is  re(|uired.  Chicago  calls  for  a  straw  color.  St.  Louis 
wants  it  higher,  and  Xew  Orleans  higher  still. 

The  color  should  be  added  before  the  rennet.  It  should 
be  diluted  with  water  and  stirred  in  thoroughly  In  tiic  cheese 
it  shoulil  not  be  of  a  reddish  hue. 


BRANCH  OF  ANNATTO  TREE. 


lis.     SETTING   THE   .MILK. 

Having  gotten  our  milk  into  the  proper  condition  we  are 
now  ready  to  set  it.  It  should  be  set  at  8G^  F.  As  sometimes 
happens,  the  milk  may  have  accidentally  been  warmed  up  to 


Cheddar  Cheese.  53 

90°.  We  would  rather  set  the  milk  at  that  temperature  than 
wait  to  cool  it  down,  for  the  milk  will  be  ripening  while  we  delay 
setting  it.  The  only  objection  to  setting  milk  at  90°  is  that 
the  curd  hardens  too  fast  to  cut  it  conveniently.  If  it  were  not 
for  that  fact  there  would  be  no  objection  to  setting  it  at  98°. 

There  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  setting  milk  at  82°  and 
waiting  for  it  to  curdle.  If  milk  is  over-ripe  time  can  be  gained 
by  setting  it  at  as  high  a  temperature  as  it  can  be  readily 
handled. 

For  a  fast  curing  cheese  we  should  use  enough  rennet  to 
curdle  the  milk  m  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes ;  and  for  a  slow 
curing  cheese  enough  to  curdle  in  thirty  to  forty  minutes. 

119.  RENNET  SHOULD  BE  DILUTED. 

The  rennet  should  be  diluted,  not  with  milk  (why?)  but 
with  a  dipperful  or  pailful  of  water,  and  then  poured  into  the 
vat  evenly  from  one  end  to  the  other.  The  water  should  be 
about  90°  F.  If  above  100°  F.  the  rennet  will  be  weakened. 
The  milk  should  have  been  thoroughly  stirred  just  previous  to 
adding  the  rennet,  and  then  the  rennet  should  be  thoroughly 
mixed  with  the  milk.  The  stirring  should  be  done  gently  so 
tha.t  the  fat  will  not  separate  from  the  milk. 

The  milk  should  be  kept  in  motion  for  several  minutes; 
the  surface  should  then  be  stirred  gently  with  the  bottom  of 
the  dipper  so  that  the  cream  will  not  rise  on  the  surface,  and 
the  milk  will  set,  or  coagulate,  and  hold  it  down.  The  move- 
ment of  the  dipper  should  be  kept  up  for  about  half  the  time  it 
takes  the  milk  to  coagulate,  and  then  a  cover  should  be  put  over 
the  va.t  to  keep  the  surface  of  the  milk  from  cooling  ofT. 

120.  THE    USE    OF   PEPSIN. 

In  substituting  pepsin  for  rennet,  only  scale  pepsin  strength 
1-3000  should  be  used.  Weigh  out  at  the  rate  of  .5  gram  for 
every  hundred  pounds  of  milk  in  the  vat,  or  for  a  slow  curing 
cheese  at  the  rate  of  .4  gram.  Dissolve  in  cold  water  before 
adding  to  the  milk.  It  can  be  obtained  in  1  pound  or  smaller 
bottles  from  Armour  &  Co.,  Chicago,  or  any  dairy  supply  house. 
A  pound  is  enough  for  100,000  pounds  of  milk. 

121.  WHEN  THE  CURD  IS  READY  TO  CUT. 

The  curd  is  ready  to  cut  when  it  will  break  clean  before  the 
finger.     The  index  finger  is  thrust  into  the   curd  and  pushed 


54  '  Cheese  Making. 

along  through  it  about  half  an  inch  below  the  surface.  The 
curd  is  first  split  by  the  thumb,  and  when  the  proper  firm'ness 
is  reached  it  will  break  as  the  finger  is  pushed  along.  If  the 
break  is  clean,  that  is,  does  not  leave  milky  but  clear  whey 
in  the  break,  the  curd  is  ready  to  be  cut. 

QUESTIONS    ON    CHAPTER    VI. 

1.  State  the  history  of  Cheddar  cheese.  2.  Where  and  by 
whom  was  the  first  cheese  factory  operated?  3.  When  and  by 
whom  were  the  first  factories  in  Ohio  built?  4.  When  and  by 
whom  were  the  first  factories  in  Wisconsin  built?  5.  What  are 
the  two  processes  of  manufacture?  6.  What  is  the  Cheddar 
system?  7.  How  much  acid  is  allowable  in  milk  for  Cheddar 
cheese?  8.  Describe  Farrington's  rapid  acid  test.  9.  To  what 
point  by  the  rennet  test  should  milk  be  ripened?  10.  How 
shall  a  maker  determine  at  what  point  to  set  his  milk?  11.  What 
is  a  starter?     12.  How  should  milk  for  a  starter  be  selected? 

13.  What  is  a  lactic  ferment  starter,  and  how  is  it  prepared? 

14.  Why  should  not  whey  or  milk  from  the  v,at  be  used  for  a 
starter?  15.  From  what  is  cheese  color  made?  16.  Describe 
the  different  shades  of  color  required  by  different  markets. 
17.  At  what  temperature  should  milk  be  set,  and  why?  ,  18.  Why 
should  over-ripe  milk  be  set  at  a  high  temperature?  19.  Why 
should  rennet  be  diluted  before  adding  it  to  the  milk?  20.  In 
the  use  of  pepsin,  what  kind  should  be  used?  21.  How  does 
pepsin  compare  in  strength  with  Hansen's  rennet  extract?  23. 
When  is  the  curd  ready  to  cut? 


Chapter  VII, 
CUTTING  AND  HEATING  THE  CURD. 


123.    FIRMING   THE    CURD. 

Through  the  work  of  heat  and  rennet  the  curd  contracts 
and  expels  the  whey.  In  order  that  this  may  be  more  readily 
done,  we  cut  the  curd  into  small  cubes  and  raise  the  temperature. 
The  pieces  of  curd  must  be  of  the  same  size  and  shape,  so  that 
they  may  expel  the  whey  evenly. 

The  term  "cook"'  in  use  for  the  change  brought  about  in  the 
condition  of  a  curd  is  not  strictly  correct,  as  the  curd  is  not 
heated  hot  enough  to  induce  the  change  ordinarily  known  as 
cooking.  The  term  has,  however,  come  into  general  use  by 
cheese  makers  and  when  used  by  us  the  firming  of  the  curd  by 
heat  is  meant. 

133.  HOW  TO   CUT  A  FAST  AVORKING  CURD. 

When  we  have  a  fast  working  or  over-ripe  curd  it  should  be 
cut  finer  and  heated  faster  than  a  normal  working  curd. 

The  English  cheese-makers  used  to  break  the  curd,  first 
with  their  hands,  and  then  with  wires,  but  the  curd-knife  has 
entirely  superseded  that  method.  There  are  two  forms  of  knives 
used  in  the  operation. 

134.  USE  OF   HORIZONTAL,   CURD-KNIFE. 

The  first  is  the  horizontal  knife,  which  has  eighteen  or 
twenty  blades.  When  it  is  drawn  through  the  length  of  the 
vat,  it  will  cut  the  curd  into  layers  or  blankets  one-half  inch 
thick,  by  six  inches  wide,  by  the  length  of  the  vat  long.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  jam  the  curd,  for  if  it  is  jammed  it  will  be 
lost  in  the  whey.  The  flat  sides  of  the  blades  should  not  be 
forced  into  the  curd  to  get  the  knife  into  a  position  to  cut  it, 
for  they  will  jam  the  curd  in  so  doing. 

125.     HOIV   TO    INSERT    THE   HORIZONTAL.    KNIFE. 

The  length  of  the  knife  is  therefore  held  in  a  horizontal 
position,  the  upper  end  of  the  knife  near  the  handle  resting 
on  the  top  of  the  end  of  the  vat.     The  knife  is  then  swung 

55 


50 


Cheese  Making. 


down  into  the  curd,  the  edges  of  the  blades  cutting-  into  the 
curd  and  taking  a  circular  course  till  the  knife  has  assumed  a 
vertical  position  parallel  with  the  end  of  the  vat,  the  lower  end 
of  the  knife  resting  on  the  bottom  of  the  vat.  In  this  move- 
ment we  have  not  jammed  the  curd,  but  have  the  knife  in  a: 
position  to  move  it  through  the  length  of  the  vat  and  cut  the 
curd  into  the  layers.  But  these  layers  are  only  six  inches  wide 
and  we  will  have  to  cut  the  whole  vat  of  curd  into  these  layers. 
Then  keeping  the  knife  in  the  curd  we  must  turn  it  without 
breaking  the  curd,  so  that  we  can  run  the  knife  to  the  other 
end  of  the  vat.  Using  the  side  of  the  knife  next  to  the  uncut 
curd  as  a  center,  we  turn  the  knife  around  through  180°  of  a 
circle,  and  we  are  ready  to  carry  the  knife  to  the  other  end  of 
the  vat. 

126.     HOW  TO   TAKE   THE   KNIFE   OUT. 

W|hen  we  have  cut  the  vat  of  curd  all  up  into  blankets,  the 
knife  is  taken  out  in  the  reverse  order  to  which  it  went  in. 


Horizontal    Knife. 


Pcipcxidicular    Knife. 


The  horizontal  knife  is  now  laid  aside  and  the  operation 
finished  with  the  perpendicular  knife.  The  blades  in  this  knife 
run  in  the  direction  of  the  longest  dimension  of  the  knife. 

Unlike  some  cheese-makers,  the  maker  should  not  wait 
here  for  the  whey  to  rise  over  the  curd  before  finishing  the 


Cutting  and  Heating  the  Curd.  57 

operation,  for  the  pieces  of  curd  will  get  out  of  place,  and  the 
curd  being  harder  will  not  be  so  easily  cut. 

127.     HOW    TO    INSERT   THE    PERPENDICULAR    KNIFE. 

One  should  next  start  cutting  in  the  same  place  as  with 
the  other  knife,  inserting  it  in  the  curd  in  the  same  way,  for  it 
has  cross  braces  which  are  really  horizontal  blades,  and  one 
must  avoid  jamming  the  curd  with  them.  Next  draw  the  knife 
over  the  same  course  that  the  other  knife  went,  and  we  have  the 
curd  cut  into  strips  one-half  inch  square  and  the  length  of  the 
Yat  long. 

Next  cut  crosswise  of  the  vat,  being  careful  not  to  jam  the 
curd,  and  we  then  have  it  cut  into  half-inch  cubes. 

If  we  are  making  up  slow  working  milk,  this  amount  of 
cutting  may  be  enough,  but  if  it  is  necessary  to  cut  finer,  it  can 
be  done  by  cutting  alternately  lengthwise  and  crosswise.  The 
strokes  should  be  much  quicker  now,  as  the  curd  has  been 
getting  harder  and  finer  and  will  pass  between  the  blades,  and 
a  quick  stroke  is  therefore  necessary  to  cut  it. 

3  38.     RAPIDITY   OF  STROKE  A  FACTOR. 

When  a  cheese  maker  says  he  cuts  a  curd  a.  certain  number 
of  times,  he  does  not  convey  the  proper  idea,  for  the  rapidity 
of  his  strokes  is  a  great  factor,  and  if  he  cuts  lengthwise  of  the 
vat  six  times  and  crosswise  six  times,  and  cuts  with  a  slow 
motion,  the  curd  may  not  be  cut  any  finer  than  if  it  had  been 
cut  only  four  times  each  way  with  a  quick  stroke. 

heating  the  curd. 
139.   keep  curd  moving. 

As  has  been  said,  the  curd  was  cut  to  allow  the  whey  to 
escape,  but  if  the  curd  is  not  kept  moving  it  will  settle  to  the 
bottom  of  the  vat  and  mat  together  again.  Therefore,  as  soon 
35  the  curd  has  been  cut,  begin  stirring  the  curd  by  hand  or 
with  a  wire  basket  made  for  the  purpose. 

Do  not  allow  the  curd  to  collect  in  the  corners  of  the  vat, 
and  be  sure  and  rub  it  off  from  the  sides  of  the  vat  or  it  will 
scald  on.  The  whey  should  look  clear,  and  be  as  free  as  pos- 
sible from  specks  of  curd  floating  in  it. 

1.30.     WHEN  TO  BEGIN  HEATING. 

Curd  being  a  poor  conductor  of  heat,  one  degree  in  five 
minutes  is  fast  enough  to  heat  normal  morking  milk.     If  it  is 


58 


Cheese  Making. 


heated  too  fast,  it  will  cook  the  particles  on  the  outside  and 
hold  the  whey  inside  of  them;  and  the  result  will  be  a  mottled 
whey-soaked  cheese.  The  cdrd  does  not  expel  the  whey  as  fast 
at  86°  F.  to  90°  F.  as  it  does  at  a  little  higher  temperature,  so 
that  the  temperature  should  be  applied  slowly  at  first. 

131.     COOKING   AN   OVER-RIPE   CURD 

If  the  milk  is  over-ripe,  however,  it  expels  the  whey  faster, 
and  the  curd  must  be  heated  faster  and  higher  than  normal 
working  curd,  or  there  will  be  the  required  amount  of  acid  on 
the  curd  before  it  is  hard  enough  to  remove  it  from  the  whey. 
As  a  usual  thing  it  is  not  necessary  to  cook  a  curd  above  ninety- 


Vlc.Fherson  Caret  Rake. 


eight  degrees,  but  a  curd  must  be  cooked  before  drawing  the 
whey,  no  matter  if  the  temperature  has  to  be  raised  to  one 
hundred  and  ten  degrees  to  do  it.  (For  definition  of  cooked 
curd,  see  paragraph  135.)  It  is  necessary  to  cook  a  fast  work- 
ing curd  in  that  way,  and  if  the  curd  is  taking  acid  too  rapidly 
for  the  heating  in  the  whey  to  be  sufficient  to  firm  the  curd 
before  the  acid  is  too  great,  the  whey  can  be  drawn  and  the 


Cutting  and  Heating  the  Curd.  59 

remainder  of  the  firming  done  in  warm  water,  which  is  run  into 
the  vat  in  place  of  the  whey.  (See,  however,  paragraph  145 
regarding  this.) 

132.  STIRRING   THE    CURD. 

To  assist  the  curd  in  heating  evenly  and  keep  it  from  mat- 
ting together,  it  should  be  stirred  from  the  time  it  is  cut  till  it 
is  cooked.  Some  Canadian  factories  ha.ve  a  steam  stirring 
apparatus  which  is  very  handy,  but  in  most  factories  it  is  done 
with  a  rake. 

133.  CURD   RAKES. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  curd  rakes  in  use,  the  common 
wooden  hay  rake  and  the  McPherson  curd  rake. 

The  rake  is  put  into  the  whey  as  soon  as  the  steam  is 
turned  on,  and  the  curd  is  started  into  a  rolling  motion  as 
though  it  were  boiling.  The  stirring  is  commenced  with  the 
rake,  teeth  up,  at  one  end  of  the  vat,  and  the  rake  is  worked 
down  the  length  of  the  va.t,  making  the  curd  roll  on  the  side 
of  the  vat  opposite  the  operator;  then  back  again,  making  it 
roll  on  the  side  toward  him.  Care  should  be  taken  that  curd 
does  not  collect  in  the  corners  of  the  vat;  nor  should  it  be 
allowed  to  roll  up  into  little  balls.  On  the  other  hand  it  must 
not  be  jammed,  or  fat  will  be  lost  in  the  whey  at  the  expense 
of  the  yield  of  cheese. 

134.  Mcpherson  curd  rake. 

The  McPherson  curd  rake  has  large  triangular  teeth  with 
the  base  of  the  triangle  forming  the  end  of  the  tooth.  This 
form  of  rake  makes  it  much  easier  to  give  the  curd  a  rolling 
motion.  Some  rakes  have  only  two  large  teeth,  and  others 
several,  but  smaller  ones.  It  is  well  to  have  two  short  wooden 
pins  about  a  h^lf  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch  long,  in  the  back 
of  the  rake,  to  prevent  its  jamming  the  curd  on  the  bottom 
of  the  vat. 

135.  HOW    TO    TELL    A    PROPER    COOK. 

One  of  the  most  important  steps  in  the  process  is  to  know 
when  a  curd  is  cooked  enough.  There  should  be  one-eighth 
of  an  inch  of  acid  on  the  curd,  and  then  the  whey  should  bie 
drawn.  Here  it  will  be  seen  that  our  judgment  comes  into  play 
to  know  how  fast  to  heat  a  curd,  to  have  it  just  firm  enough 
when  the  acid  comes.     The  rennet  test  will  help  us  to  regulate 


60  Cheese  Making. 

this,  but  if  the  rennet  test  indicates  that  we  have  a  fast  working 
milk  it  will  be  necessary  to  cook  faster,  and  perhaps  higher. 
When  the  whey  is  drawn  the  curd  must  not  be  salvy  and  soft, 
but  when  a  big  double  hanclful  is  pressed  together  in  the  hands, 
and  one  hand  removed,  it  should  not  remain  in  a.  mashed-up 
mass,  but  should  fall  apart  readily.  The  particles  of  curd  should 
be  examined  from  time  to  time,  to  see  that  they  are  cooking 
on  the  inside  as  well  as  the  outside. 

An  overcooked  curd  will  give  a  "corky"  cheese,  while  on 
the  other  hand,  an  undercook  will  give  a  salvy,  weak  bodied 
cheese  that  is  in  danger  of  souring. 

QUESTIONS    ON    CHAPTER    VII. 

1.  What  is  meant  by  firming  or  cooking  a  curd?  2.  How 
should  a  fast  working  curd  be  cut?  3.  Describe  the  use  of  the 
horizontal  and  perpendicular  knives.  4.  What  effect  has  the 
rapidity  of  stroke  on  the  fineness  to  which  a  curd  can  be  cut? 
5.  Why  do  we  cut  a  curd?  6.  Why  do  we  heat  a  curd?  7.  How 
soon  after  cutting  should  a  maker  begin  heating  a  curd?  8.  How 
should  an  over-ripe  curd  be  heated?  9.  Why  do  we  stir  a  curd? 
10.  Describe  the  McPherson  curd  rake?  11.  How  can  one  tell 
when  a  curd  is  properly  cooked?  13.  What  is  the  effect  in  the 
cheese  of  an  overcook?  13.  What  is  the  effect  in  the  cheese 
of  an  undercook? 


Chapter  VIII. 

DRAWING  THE  WHEY     DIPPING  AND  MILLING 
THE  CURD. 


i:ir,.    mi:  vsi  ui\(i  .\<io. 

\\  ln-n  tluTc  is  an  eighth  of  an  inch  of  acid  on  the  curd,  the 
whey  shoukl  be  dra.vvn  ofif. 

Strictly  speaking,  acid  cannot  be  measured  by  the  inch,  but 
the  acid  seems  to  act  on  tlie  curd  in  some  way.  so  tiial  when 
a  piece  is  touched  to  a  iiot  iron  and  (h'awn  away,  it  will  leave 
tine,  silkv  threads  ])ehind.  sticking  to  the  iron.  With  normal 
workin;;'  milk,  when  the  curd  is  first  cooked  uj),  it  will  not  string 
al  all:  but  when  the  acid  has  reached  a  certain  strength,  it  will 
begin  to  string,  at  tirst  barely  sticking  to  the  iron,  and  as  the 
acid  increases,  the  strings  will  get  longer,  till  the\  may  be  sev- 
eral inches  in  length. 
i:t7.    'riiuio  \i)s  ni  lo  to  a  (in. 

Thai  the  threads  are  in  no  way  due  to  the  rennet,  but  are 
(lei)endent  on  the  acid,  is  shown  when  milk  sours  naturally, 
.^uch  a  sour  milk  curd  will  usually  string  on  a  hot  iron.  If  acid 
is  imroduced  into  the  milk  in  sufficient  ([uantily  to  cunlle  it.  the 
curd  will  likeh  string,  in  fact,  strings  of  any  desired  length  can 
be  proiluced.  bv  adding  the  right  (|uantity  of  acid  to  the  milk. 
However,  if  too  luucli  acid  is  added,  it  will  make  a  S(ift.  mushy 
curd,  which   will  not   string. 

The  acid  softens  the  cur<l  so  that  it  readily  sticks  to  the 
hot  iron,  .\boul  Iwn-lenths  of  1  per  cent  of  acid  in  the  whey 
uuist  be  present  to  make  it  string  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  .\s 
the  aci<l  increases  the  strings  get  longer.  .\ny  solvent  ni  the 
casein  will  produce  this  result  on  the  hot  iron.  T'.ora.x,  which  is 
alkaline  in  reaction,  will  bring  about  this  result. 
i::.s.    I  SI',  or  AnnmiOTKR. 

Trof.  11.  11.  Dean  of  the  <  iuelph  Dairy  School  favors  the 
use  of  the  acidimeler.  This  is  the  Afanns"  acid  test  The 
appar.atus  consists  of  a  .■■)ii  c.  c.  burette,  a  solution  of  phenolph- 

61 


Drawing  the  Whey.  63 

talein,  a  Babcock  pipette  and  a  tenth  normal  alkali  solution. 
When  a  pipette  of  milk  or  whey  is  used  1  c.  c.  of  the  alkali  used 
is  equal  to  .05  per  cent  of  lactic  acid.  The  Farrington  tablet 
solution  may  be  substituted  for  the  alkali.  Use  19.5  c.  c.  of 
water  for  each  tablet.  Each  c.  c.  of  the  solution  used  will  be 
equal  to  .01  per  cent  of  lactic  acid. 

139.  RESULT   OF   TOO  MUCH  ACID. 

When  too  much  acid  is  developed  in  the  whey,  there  is  also 
a  great  loss  of  fat,  as  well  as  of  casein.  Experience  has  taught 
us,  that  as  a  usual  thing  we  cannot  let  the  curd  take  more 
than  one-eighth  of  an  inch  of  acid  in  the  whey  without  disas- 
trous results.  If  we  were  to  wait  but  a  short  time  after  there 
are  strings  an  eighth  of  an  inch  long,  we  would  find  perhaps, 
that  they  had  increased  to  an  inch  in  length,  and  our  curd  would 
be  ruined.  It  is  therefore  necessary  that  one  should  work 
nimbly  at  this  stage  of  the  process.  Not  only  should  the  whey 
be  drawn  ofif  from  the  curd,  but  the  curd  must  also  be  thor- 
oughly drained,  for  whey  in  the  curd  will  have  the  same  effect 
as  though  the  curd  were  still  in  the  whey.  Of  course  the  curd 
must  contain  its  natural  amount  of  moisture,  but  there  must 
be  no  pools  of  free  whey  in  or  on  the  curd. 

Dr.  Van  Slyke  has  shown  that  lactic  acid  acting  upon  the 
curd  forms  a  substance  which  he  calls  mono-lactic-acid-para- 
casein.  This  is  dissolved  out  of  the  curd  by  strong  brine.  This 
is  the  substance  which  makes  the  curd  cement  and  string. 
When  a  double  amount  of  acid  unites  with  the  curd  it  forms 
di-lactic-acid-paracasein  which  gives  it  the  characteristics  of 
high  acid  or  sour  cheese.  The  formation  of  mono-lactic-acid- 
paracasein  aftects  the  subsequent  changes  in  the  curing  of  the 
cheese. 

In  the  old  system  of  granular  cheese  making,  the  curd 
was  stirred  over  in  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  and  then  a  ditch 
made  in  the  middle  for  it  to  drain.  In  this  stirring,  consider- 
able fat  was  lost,  and  the  curds  were  not  uniform  in  moisture. 
The  reason  of  this  was,  that  they  were  stirred  drier  one  day  than 
another. 

140.  CURD  RACK. 

In  the  Cheddar  system,  which  we  follow,  the  curd  is  drained 
on  racks,  which  are  placed  either  in  the  bottom  of  the  vat  or 


64 


Cheese  Making. 


in  a  curd  sink.  The  racks  are  made  of  hard  wood,  preferably- 
maple.  They  are  constructed  of  strips  rounded  on  the  top, 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick,  two  inches  wide,  screwed  onto 
two  other  pieces  two  inches  high,  three-fourths  of 'an  inch  thick, 
and  four  feet  long.  The  slats  are  three-eighths  of  an  inch  apart, 
and  extend  crosswise  of  the  vat,  and  are  long  enough,  so  that 
not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  space  is  left  between  each 
end  and  the  sides  of  the  vat.  The  racks  are  usually  in  two 
four-foot  sections. 

141.     RACKS— HOW   USED. 

When  the  whey  is  drawn  down,  so  that  there  is  but  very 
little  whey  left  in  the  vat  to  interfere  with  operations,  the  vat  is 
tipped  so  that  one  end  is  five  or  six  inches  lower  than  the 

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other,  and  the  curd  is  shoved  down  to  the  lower-  end  till  about 
five  feet  of  the  upper  end  is  cleared.  The  first  section  of  the 
rack  is  then  put  in,  and  a  linen  strainer  cloth  thrown  over  it. 
This  strainer  cloth  should  be  about  twelve  feet  long,  and  wide 
enough  (60  inches)  to  come  up  over  the  sides  of  the  vat.  The 
surplus  cloth  is  then  tucked  under  the  lower  end  of  the  rack, 
and  the  curd  piled  onto  it  and  broken  apart  to  allow  the  whey 
to  escape. 

It  should  be  stirred  over  several  times,  and  then  left  to 
mat  evenly  about  six  inches  deep.  The  space,  formerly  occu- 
pied by  the  curd  that  has  been  put  onto  the  racks,  is  now  clear, 
and  the  second  section  of  the  rack  can  be  placed  in  the  vat. 
This  is  put  in  close  to  the  first  section,  and  the  cloth  that  had 


Drawing  the  Whey.  '  65 

been  tucked  out  of  the  way,  is  drawn  over  it  and  covered  with 
curd,  care  being  taken,  as  on  the  first  section,  to  stir  out  the 
whey.  The  sides  and  ends  of  the  strainer  cloth  are  then 
wrapped  over  the  curd,  and  the  vat  covered  with  a  heavy  cloth 
cover  to  keep  the  curd  warm.  The  temperature  must  be  main- 
tained, to  keep  fermentation  going  on. 

142.     CUTTING  THE   CURD   INTO   BLOCKS. 

After  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  the  curd  will  have  matted 
together,  and  can  be  cut  into  large  blocks,  which  are  turned 
over. 

The  best  instrument  for  cutting  the  curd  that  the  author 
has  seen  is  an  instrument  invented  by  Mr.  B.  B.  Herrick,  assist- 
ant in  cheese  making  in  the  Ohio  Dairy  School.     It  is  a  trun- 


Herrick's  Curd   Knife. 

cated  piece  of  heavy  tin  or  galvanized  iron  ten  inches  wide  by 
sixteen  inches  long.  It  is  folded  at  the  ends  and  has  a  bead 
turned  on  the  back  to  stiffen  it.  By  taking  this  in  both  hands 
it  can  be  pressed  down  into  the  curd  cutting  it  quickly  without 
damage  to  the  strainer  cloth. 

The  curd  can  be  cut  once  or  twice  down  the  length  of  the 
vat,  and  across  the  vat  into  pieces  eight  inches  wide. 

143.     TURNING  THE  CURD. 

Begin  at  the  lower  end  to  turn  the  curd,  for  it  will  be  more 
convenient  to  place  the  hands  under  the  curd  on  the  side 
toward  the  upper  end  of  the  vat,  and  roll  it  over.  In  so  doing, 
it  is  not  necessary  to  lift  the  piece,  thereby  breaking  it.  Con- 
tinue turning  the  other  pieces  in  the  same  manner,  till  the  last 
piece  at  the  upper  end  of  the  vat  is  reached,  then,  by  a  pull  of 
the  cloth,  it  is  turned  over.     Cover  it  up  and  let  it  stand  to  mat 


66  Cheese  Making. 

still  closer.  By  using  racks,  the  whey  runs  through  when  the 
curd  is  turned  over.  Watch  the  curd,  and  if  whey  should  col- 
lect between  the  pieces,  turn  them  over  and  let  it  run  off.  The 
curd  should  be  turned  from  time  to  time,  but  much  oftener  at 
first,  to  facilitate  the  expulsion  of  the  whey.  After  a  while  the 
curd  will  begin  to  get  a  grain  to  it,  and  will  tear  like  the  meat 
on  a  chicken's  breast. 

144.  PIN-HOLEY    CURDS. 

If  we  have  what  is  called  a  "gassy"  or  "pin-holey"  curd,  the 
gas  will  begin  to  form  in  little  holes  about  the  size  of  a  pin  head. 
Through  the  flattenmg  of  the  curd,  these  holes  are  flattened  and 
the  gas  escapes.  Sometimes  these  pin  holes  appear  before  the 
curd  is  taken  out  of  the  whey,  and,  if  they  are  plentiful  enough, 
the  curd  will  float  on  the  surface  of  the  whey,  and  we  have 
what  is  called  a  "floater."  But  this  does  not  occur  very  often, 
if  we  draw  the  whey  in  time.  It  used  to  occur  quite  often  with 
bad  milk,  when  the  curd  was  left  in  the  granular  form,  and  more 
acid  was  run  in  the  whey.  The  pin  holes  were  not  flattened, 
and  consequently  appeared  in  the  cheese.  Such  curds  are  often 
accompanied  by  a  bad  flavor.  They  are  probably  caused  from 
bad  ferments,  but  may  be  due  to  bad  flavored  food.  Clover 
and  watercress,  when  eaten  by  the  cows,  have  been  known  to 
give  a  curd  with  pin  holes. 

Some' of  the  taints  are  much  more  persistent  than  others. 
As  a  usual  thing,  a  taint  cannot  be  gotten  entirely  out  of  the 
cheese. 

145.  AVASHI3VG   CURDS. 

A  curd  can  be  greatly  improved  by  washing  it.  When  put 
onto  the  racks,  and  before  it  has  had  time  to  mat,  a  few  pails  of 
water  at  a  temperature  of  105"  F.  will  wash  out  a  great  deal  of 
the  taint. 

The  author  is  not  now  as  much  in  favor  of  washing  curds 
as  he  was  several  years  ago.  A  light  washing  may  improve  a 
curd,  but  with  other  substances  the  lactic  acid  is  washed  out 
and  without  lactic  acid  a  fine  Cheddar  flavor  cannot  be  obtained. 

We  have  carried  on  extensive  experiments  with  this  in  view. 
Sweet  curd  cheese,  made  from  very  sweet  milk  never  develops 
the  characteristic  Cheddar  flavor.  Unless  two-tenths  of  a  per 
cent  of  lactic  acid  in  the  whey  is  developed,  this  flavor  will  be 


Drawing  the  Whey.  07 

lacking  in  the  cheese.  Curds  that  have  an  over  amount  of  acid 
in  the  whey  may  appear  for  the  first  month  to  be  improved  in 
quality  by  washing,  but  after  that  time,  when  it  is  usually  be- 
vond  the  maker's  observation  and  in  the  wholesale  dealer's 
hands,  it  will  develop  a  ragged  texture  and  bad  flavor  like  a 
sweet  curd  cheese  which  has  been  exposed  to  a  high  tempera- 
ture. 

At  the  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station  it  has  been  shown 
that  the  lactic  acid  and  milk  sugar  holds  the  gas  germs  in  check. 
If  it  is  necessary  to  wash  the  curd  very  much  cane  sugar  applied 
at  the  rate  of  two  and  a  half  pounds  to  the  hundred  pounds  of 
curd  will  keep  the  undesirable  fermentations  in  check. 

146.  USE   OF   A   CURD    SINK. 

It  is  much  easier  to  get  the  curd  onto  the  racks  and  expel 
the  whey,  by  using  a  curd  sink.  Nor  is  as  much  fat  lost  in  the 
operation,  for  where  the  curd  mats  together  in  the  vat  before  it 
can  be  gotten  onto  the  racks,  it  is  necessary^  to  break  it  apart  to 
let  the  whey  out,  and  the  necessary  bruising  forces  the  fat  out 
of  it. 

147.  PROPER   FORM    OF   CURD    SINK. 

The  common  form  ot  curd  sink,  with  an  opening  along  the 
whole  length  of  the  bottom,  is  to  be  avoided.  The  sink  should 
be  a  tin  lined-  box  with  a  channel  bottom.  There  should  be 
racks  in  it,  and  the  channel  under  the  racks  will  leave  a  place 
for  hot  water,  to  keep  the  curd  warm.  There  should  be  a  faucet 
at  the  lower  end  that  can  be  opened  to  let  the  whey  drain  ofif, 
and  then  closed  to  keep  the  water  under  the  curd.  If  the  racks 
are  not  used,  the  curd  will  not  drain  sufficiently ;  and  if  there  is 
an  opening  along  the  bottom,  there  will  be  a  current  of  air 
started  up  around  the  curd  which  will  be  cooled.  Of  course 
this  is  just  what  must  be  avoided,  because  the  fermentation  will 
be  checked,  if  the  curd  cools  down. 

148.  HOW  TO   FILL  THE   CURD   SINK. 

When  the  curd  smk  is  used,  the  whey  should  be  drawn  down 
in  the  vat  till  it  just  barely  covers  the  curd ;  for  while  it  is  cov- 
ered with  whey,  it  will  not  mat.  The  curd  sink  is  then  run  to 
the  lower  end  of  the  vat,  and  the  curd  dipped  over  onto  the  racks 
in  the  curd  sink.  All  the  whey  runs  through,  and  the  curd  is 
left  dry  to  mat  properly.     If  the  curd  is  tainted,  it  can  be  more 


68  Cheese  Making. 

thoroughly  washed,  as  the  curd,  is  not  matted  together,  and  the 
water  will  wash  all  around  the  particles.  As  the  curd  is  filled 
into  the  sink,  this  can  be  moved  along,  and  the  curd  filled  into 
it  evenly. 


After  the  curd  has  been  turned  several  times,  the  maker 
can  begin  piling  it.     He  can  pile  it  two,  three,  or  five  or  six 


Curd  Scoop. 


layers  deep,  but  he  should  keep  the  pieces  pretty  well  together, 
so  that  the  curd  will  not  spread  too  much  at  first. 


Drawing  the  Whey.  69 

149.  KEEP    THE    CURD   WARM. 

The  pieces  that  .have  been  on  the  outside  of  the  pile  should 
be  placed  on  the  inside,  so  that  the  temperature  may  be  kept 
even.  We  must  not  forget  the  fact,  that  cheese-making-  is  a 
process  of  fermentation,  and  that  heat  is  a  great  factor  in  it. 

150.  PILING  CURDS. 

Piling  the  curd  has  a  tendency  to  make  a  fast-curing,  soft 
or  "weak-bodied,"  cheese.  If  a  fast-curing,  soft  cheese  is  de- 
sired, then  the  curd  should  be  piled,  but  if  a  slow-curing,  firm- 
bodied  cheese  is  desired,  we  should  pile  the  curd  very  little  or 
not  at  all.  In  many  of  the  best  Canadian  factories,  the  curd  is 
not  piled  at  all,  but  is  turned  over  and  over.  A  curd,  from  over- 
ripe milk,  should  not  be  piled  very  much,  as  such  a  curd  is  likely 
to  produce  a  "salvy"  cheese. 

MILLING  THE   CURD. 

151.  WHEN  A   CURD   IS    READY   TO   MILL. 

In  the  course  of  an  hour  and  a  half  from  the  time  the  curd 
has  been  dipped  onto  the  racks,  it  will  have  matted  down,  and 
assumed  a  meaty  texture.  It  will  not  tear  out  in  chunks,  but  in 
strips  like  the  meat  on  a  chicken's  breast.  There  will  also 
probably  be  half  an  inch  or  more,  likely  an  inch,  of  fine  strings, 
when  tried  on  a  hot  iron.  It  is  then  ready  to  grind  or  mill,  that 
is,  it  is  put  into  a  curd  mill  and  cut  into  small  pieces.  The  acid 
should  be  developing  well  at  this  stage  of  the  process,  but  the 
amount  of  acid  is  not  so  important  as  that  the  curd  shall  be 
meaty  in  texture. 

152.  DfiSCRIPTION    OF    CURD    3IILL.S. 

The  first  curd  mills  were  used  in  England.  They  con- 
sisted of  a  hopper,  in  the  bottom  of  which  was  a  roller  with  iron 
pegs  in  it.  Sometimes  there  were  two  rollers.  On  the  side  of 
the  hopper  were  iron  pegs,  and  when  the  curd  was  thrown  into 
it,  the  pegs  in  the  roller  would  catch  it,  and  carry  it-against  the 
pegs,  and  tear  and  squeeze  it  to  pieces. 

The  old  Roe  mill  is  made  on  this  principle.  The  old  Elgin 
mill  was  also  on  the  same  plan,  only  there  was  less  room  for 
the  curd  to  get  between  the  pegs,  and  the  curd  was  badly 
smashed  and  jammed.  It  helped  to  get  rid  of  the  fat,  and  such 
a  mill  ought  never  to  have  been  used. 


Peg  Mill. 


Pohl   Mill. 


McPherson    Curd    Mill 


Common   Knife  Curd   Mill 


70 


Drawing  the  Whey 


71 


153.     POHL  MILL,. 


The  next  form  of  peg  mill  is  the  Pohl  mill,  which  has  sharp 
teeth  on  two  cylinders,  revolving  at  different  velocities,  which 
pick  the  curd  to  pieces.  The  objection  to  this  mill  is,  that  it 
does  not  leave  the  curd  in  the  same  size  pieces.  Some  of  the 
pieces  will  be  quite  large,  while  others  are  small,  and  when  salted 
the  salt  will  not  be  evenly  distributed.  There  is  a  self-salting 
attachment  to  the  mill,  but  it  is  useless,  as  a  curd  is  never  ready 
to  salt  when  milled. 


Fuller   Hand-Power   Cuid   Mill. 


[FULLERS  i 

flJUD   MIIL  1 

\m  fioLvcRsripS'i ''    ' 


Fufier   Power   Curd   Mill. 


154.     WHITLOW   MILL. 

A  knife-mill  does  not  jam  the  curd  as  much  as  a  peg  mill 
does.  It  simply  cuts  it.  One  of  the  earliest  forms  of  knife- 
mills  was  built  after  the  form  of  peg-mills,  as  is  seen  in  the 
Whitlow  mill  of  Canada.  There  are  a  number  of  knives  on  a 
shaft  which  play  between  knives  in  the  side  of  the  hopper. 
When  the  curd  is  put  into  the  hopper,  it  is  caught  between  the 
knives  and  cut  into  small  pieces.  The  B.  &  W.  mill  is  practi- 
cally the  same  mill. 


Harris   Curd   Mill 


Barnard  Hand  Power  Curd  Mill. 


72 


Drawing  the  W'liiiv.  73 

155.     Mcl'lIICKSON    .MILL. 

Till'  McPherson  mill,  invented  in  Eastern  Ontario,  consists 
of  a  wheel  with  knives  in  it  similar  to  the  blade  ot  a  plane.  A 
hopper  feeds  the  curd  down  against  the  wheel,  and  as  it  turns, 
slices  of  curd  are  sha\'ed  off.  The  wheel  is  apt  to  make  the 
curd  fly. 
tr,ii.    <;(»s.sioLi.\  MILL. 

The  ( iosselin  mill  is  similar  Uj  the  .Mcl'herson,  the  blade 
being-  placed  in  a  cyhnder.  The  curd  placed  in  a  hopper  rubs 
ag-ainst  the  blades  and  drops  into  the  c\linder,  which  being  open 
at  the  ends,  allows  the  curd  to  fall  out. 

157.     TIIK    II.VRItIS    MILL. 

The  Harris  mill  has  a  network  of  knives  at  the  bottom  of  a 
hopper.  .\  plunger  works  by  a  lever  into  this  hopper,  and 
when  a  chunk  of  curd  is  dropped  into  this,  the  plunger  forces 
it  through  the  knives,  leaving  the  curd  in  pieces  one-half  inch 
square,  anrl  as  long  as  the  ]jiece  of  curd  dropped  into  the  hopper. 

15S,     TIIK    riLLBR    .MILL. 

The  Fuller  mill  has  two  knives  with  a  smaller  number  of 
blades  than  the  Harris,  placed  one  on  either  side  of  the  hopper 
and  the  curd  is  pressed  through  the  knives  by  a  plunger  that 
works  back  and  forth  across  the  bottom  of  the  hopper. 

15!).     Tin:    n.VKN.VIll)    MILL. 

The  I'.arnard  is  similar  to  the  Fuller  mill. 

l«;o.      rilK   K  ASIMOIl   MILL. 

The  Kasper  mill  is  like  the  Pohl  except  that  the  pegs  on 
the  rollers  are  replaced  by  a  cylinder  of  knives.  The  curd  is 
pressed  through  the  knives  by  means  of  a  wooden  roller.  The 
cylinder  is  in  three  sections  which  open  automatically  and  let 
the  curd  fall  out. 

KM.    vn\ WT A«ii:s  AM)  oii.ii:< 'i'i()>s    ro   kmim",  mills. 

Tlu'  other  advantage  of  a  knife-mill,  besides  saving  the  fat 
in  the  curd,  is  that  the  curd  will  not  mat  together  on  the  racks, 
but  can  ea>il\  be  torn  to  pieces  by  hand.  An  objection  offered 
to  such  mills  i.s.  thai  the  curd  will  not  press  together  well.  It 
may  perhaps  be  tlii'licult  at  times,  but  the  trouble  in  closing  the 
cheese  lies  somewhere  else.     It  must  be  remembered  that  knife- 


74 


CriiiiiiSE  Making 


mills  are  used,  hardly  without  exception,  in  factories  where  the 
best  Canadian  cheese  is  made,  and  this  cheese  is  shipped  to 
England,  where  the  bandages  are  often  strip])ed  off  from  ilu-m, 
and  they  must  necessarily  be  closed. 

If  the  trouble  in  closing  the  cheese  be  carefully  investigated 
it  will  1)0  found  to  be  in  the  bandage  used,  or  the  temperature 
of   the   curd.     Some   makers   let    the   curd   mat   together   again. 


KASPER    ROTARY    CURD    MILL. 


and  grind  a  second  '"^r  third   lime,  bul    we  do  nol   like  >o  ninch 
hacking  of  the  curd.      Thr  curd  should  be  piled  up  to  ilattrn  the 
pinholes,  and  then  stirred  ever\   tifleeu  minutes  to  give  it  air. 
102.   STinRiN*;  THE  frun. 

.\  five-lined  fork,  with  the  points  nuMied  into  litlle  loops  to 
prevent  catching  into  the  chnh,  or  slicking  into  the  sink,  is  a 
very  handy  t(jol  with  which  to  stir  the  curd,  li  docs  tlu'  work 
thorousfhlv.  and  with  nuich  less  labor  than  with  the  hands  alone. 


n>:{.    ri:tiLO  to  him.. 

The  grinding  should  conic  about  hah'  way  in  time  from 
(h])])ing  the  curd  to  salting  it.  It  therefore  should  be  an  hour 
ami  a  iialt"  from  grinding  to  salting.  During  all  this  time  the 
temperature  should  be  kept  up.     (Why  ?) 

The  curd  shcDuid  take  all  the  acid  it  will  before  salting,  which 
is  indicated  by  strings  about  two  inches  long  on  the  hoi  iron. 

101.     KFFECT    OF    DUY    ACID. 

If  a  fast-curing  cheese  is  wanted,  there  is  all  the  greater 
reason  for  giving  it  all  the  acid  it  will  take. 

Do  not  be  afraid  of  getting  a  sour  cheese  by  giving  it  all  the 
drv  acid  it  will  take,      [f  one  has  not  all  the  whev  out  of  the 


k 


KtTtcl  ul  dcvclupiii^c  II. I  acnl  <<n  ciir.l  before  pressing.  The  cheese  marked  L  was 
cut  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  press.  The  cliecse  V  was  cut  after  standinR  fur  a  week. 
The  small-  crevices  left  between  the  unceniented  particles  of  cunl  in  I.  had  been 
expanded   by  the  development   of  gas,   thus  making  the  clieese   luilT. 


curd,  there  is  no  danger  of  a  sour  cheese.     It  is  acid  in  the  whey 
that   makes  a  smir  clieese. 

.\  tallowy  cheese  may  possibh'  result  from  a  i)rolongeil  mat- 
ting, but  this  is  seldom  the  case.  If  the  ciu"ing  ro(3m  is  not 
under  control  in  hot  weather  the  cheese  is  safer  if  well  developed 
on  the  racks,  li  the  curing  room  temperature  can  be  held  down 
to  (J")  I-".  ii  will  not  be  necessarv  to  develop  so  much  acid  on  the 
racks. 


a 


76  CiiEESi;  Making. 

H!o.     now    TO    K.Vl'KL    fJAS. 

it  the  pin  holes  are  not  all  llaliened  oul  b}'  the  lime  the 
maker  is  ready  to  salt  the  curd,  it  can  be  put  into  the  hoops  and 
pressed  up  for  fifteen  niinutes.  Then  take  it  out  and  pull  to 
pieces  by  hand  or  with  the  fork.  This,  however,  is  not  neces- 
sary except  in  very  stubborn  cases.  The  gas  can  usually  be 
expelled  by  thorough  airing  and  piling. 

!<»>.     STEA>II\t;    ClUDS. 

The  vat  or  curd  sinks  shcmld  be  covered  with  a  heavy  can- 
vas cover.  A  steam  hose  can  be  inserted  under  it  in  such 
position  that  the  liot  steam  will  not  strike  the  curd  directly.  A 
gentle  stream  of  steam  will  keep  the  curd  warm  and  the  moisture 
seems  to  dispose  oi  taints  in  the  curd. 

QUESTIONS    ON-    CII.M'TER     VHI. 

1.  What  is  meant  by  an  eighth  of  an  inch  of  acid  on  a  curd? 
2.  Why  (h)  the  threads  string  out  on  the  hot  iron?  3.  How 
much  acid  must  be  present  in  the  whey  to  cause  strings  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  length?  -L.  What  is  the  effect  of  too  much 
acid  in  the  whey?  5.  How  are  ciu'd  racks  useil  in  the  vat?  6. 
Describe  the  Herrick  curd  knife.  T.  Wdiy  and  how^  should  the 
curd  on  the  racks  be  turned?  S.  What  are  ''pinholey"  curds 
and  how  should  they  be  handled?  '.).  What  can  be  said  in  fav<ir 
of  and  against  washing  curds?  10.  tEow  may  curds  be  treated 
to  prevent  bad  fermentations  due  to  too  much  washing?  II. 
What  is  the  advaiUage  of  a  curd  siid«:?  Vi.  IImw  should  a  curd 
sink  be  constructed?  1-"..  How  sIkuiM  the  curd  sink  I)e  tilled? 
14.  Why  should  a  curd  be  kept  warm  and  how  ma\-  it  be  piled 
to  accomplish  this?  1.").  What  is  the  effect  of  high  anl  low 
piling?  Hi.  W'lien  is  a  curd  ready  to  mill?  \'..  Describe  the 
old  peg  mill>  and  what  is  the  object i^m  to  ihem?  is.  r)escribe 
the  Poll!  null?  10.  Describe  the  Whitlow  anl  I"..  .\;  W.  nulls. 
20.  Describe  the  Mcl^herson  mill.  -.'L.  Describe  the  ( iosslein 
mill.  22.  Describe  the  Harris  mill.  -13.  Describe  the  Fuller 
mill  and  the  Barnard  mill.  'M.  Describe  th.e  [\as|)er  mill.  35. 
What  are  the  advantages  for  and  objection  to  knifr  mills,  ^(i. 
How  should  a  hve-tined  steel  f«^rk  he  fixed  to  stir  th,^  curd? 
27.  What  is  the  effect  of  dry  acid  on  a  curd?  '^S.  How  may  a 
tallowy  cheese  possibly  result?  29.  How  may  gas  he  expelled 
from  the  curd?     30.  What  can  be  said  about  steaming  curds? 


Chapter  IX. 
SALTING  AND   PRESSING  THE  CURD. 


167.  CONDITION    OF    A    CURD    FOR    SALTING. 

The  curd,  when  ready  to  salt,  should,  when  rubbed  on  the 
hot  iron,  not  smell  like  burnt  hair,  but  like  toasted  cheese.  It 
should  not  feel  harsh,  but  soft  and  silky,  and  when  squeezed  in 
the  hand,  a  mixture  of  half  fat  and  half  whey  should  run  between 
the  lingers. 

If  it  is  clear  whey  that  runs  out,  the  curd  is  not 'ready  to 
salt.  White  whey  should  not  run  from  a  curd  before  salting. 
In  that  case  it  has  not  been  fully  freed  from  whey,  and  there 
is  a  heavy  loss  of  fat.  Of  course,  if  the  whey  is  in  the  curd,  it 
should  be  gotten  rid  of,  but  it  ought  not  to  be  there.  When 
salted,  a  clear  brine  should  run  from  the  curd. 

Few  cheese-makers  reaHze  how  important  a  step  in  the 
process  of  cheese  making  the  salting  of  thfe  curd  is,  and  they 
salt  all  their  curds  according  to  some  fixed  rule,  learned,  from 
their  predecessors,  without  knowing  what  the  salt  does. 

168.  WHAT   SALT  IS.-^ 

Salt  is  known  to  chemists  by  the  name  of  sodium  chloride. 
It  is  a  chemical  combination  of  the  metal  sodium  and  chlorine 
gas,  in  the  proportion  by  weight,  of  twenty-three  pai'ts  sodium 
to  thirty-five  and  a  half  parts  chlorine. 

160.    WHERE  SALT  COMES  FROM. 

It  occurs  in  beds  in  the  earth,  and  is  either  mined,  or  more 
commonly  obtained  from  salt  wells,  in  which  the  salt  is  dis- 
solved by  the  water,  pumped  up  to  the  surface,  and  evaporated, 
leaving  the  salt.     But  salt  does  not  occur  pure  in  these  beds. 

170.    IMPURITIES   IN  SALT. 

There  are  associated  with  it  potassium  chloride,  calcium 
chloride  and  sulphates  of  magnesia  and  lime.  The  presence 
of  calcium  and  magnesium  chloride  in  the  salt  makes  it  lumpy 
and  damp,  for  these  chlorides  have  a  great  attraction  for  water, 
and  will  take  it  from  the  air.  Calcium  chloride  and  magnesium 
give  the  salt  a  bitter  taste. 

These  impurities,  however,  as  well  as  the  water  .contained 
in  salt,  are  a  verv  low  percentage  of  the  whole,  and  when  a  salt 

77 


78 


Cheese -Makinc;. 


dealer  talks  about  his  salt  being  so  much  stronger  or  purer 
than  any  other  high  grade  salt,  it  is  not  so.  Do  not  understand, 
however,  that  common  barrel  salt  is  just  as  good  as  the  best  salt 
for  cheese  making,  lor  it  is  not.  Common  barrel  salt  contains 
a  great  deal  of  dirt,  and  salt  may  take  up  bad  odors,  which  will 
be  imparted  to  the  cheese. 

Fine  salt  that  has  probably  been  ground,  and  the  crystals 
broken,  will  dissolve  faster  than  a  coarser  salt,  in  the  natural 
crystalline  form. 

Salts  can  easily  be  tested  as  to  quality,  by  dissolving  them 
in  pure  water,  in  a  glass  cylinder,  and  shaking  up  to  dissolve. 
Use  more  salt  than  will  dissolve.  The  best  salt  is  that  which 
leaves  a  clear  brine  with  no  scum  or  dirt  on  the  top,  nor  dirt  in 
the  bottom  of  the  solutions.  Cheese  is  an  article  of  food  and 
we  do  not  want  any  dirt  in  it,  so  we  should  avoid  dirty  salt.  If  a 
few  drops  of  a  solution  of  ammonium  oxalate  is  poured  into  the 
salt  solution,  any  lime  that  may  be  in  the  salt  will  be  thrown 
down  in  the  form  of  a  white  precipitate  of  calcium  oxalate.  By 
this  means  we  can  form  an  idea  of  the  amount  of  lime  in  the 
salt.  We  doubt  if  a  little  lime  (calcium  oxide)  is  harmful  in  the 
salt,  but  if  the  calcium  is  in  the  form  of  chloride,  it  will  attract 
moisture  and  make  the  salt  lump.  Lumpy  salt  will  not  be 
evenly  distributed  in  the  cheese. 

AVERAGE  COMPOSITION  OF  AMERICAN  DAIRY  SALTS. 
Analyses  by  F.  W.  WoU,  Wis.  Exp.  Station. 


NAME  OF  BRAND. 

i 

11 

si 

II 

OC/3 

11 

E 

11 

So 

3  c 

"5 

Anchor •  •  •  • 

3 

97.79 

1.48 

.28 

.C8 

06 

.31 

3 

98  01 

1.42 

.20 

.16 

.03 

.18 

Canfield  &  Wheeler 

98  18 

1  21 

.22 

.12 

.04 

.23 

Diamond  Crystal     

99.18 

54 

.19 

.05 

03 

.01 

Genessee 

98.27 

1.11 

.24 

.07 

.04 

.16 

Kansas 

97.87 

1  50 

.31 

.07 

.05 

.20 

LeRoy 

Vacuum  Pan 

98  15 

1  31 

.39 

.08 

.01 

.06 

98  00 

1  15 

.36 

15 

.03 

.31 

98.43 

.96 

40 

.06 

.03 

.12 

Worcester 

98.57 

.92 

.25 

.07 

.02 

.17 

Salting  and  Pressing  the  Curd.  79 

171.  what  salt  dobs  to  chebse. 

In  the  first  place,  salt  gives  taste  to  a  cheese.  A  cheese 
without  salt  has  an  insipid  fresh  taste.  Salt  also  takes  out  the 
moisture,  so  that  fermentation  is  checked.  A  cheese  without 
salt  will  cure  very  fast,  in  fact  fermentation  goes  on  so  rapidly 
that  gas  holes  are  formed. 

The  same  thing  is  seen  in  brick  and  Swiss  cheese,  in  which 
the  fermentation  starts  in  the  imsalted  state,  but  the  salt,  which 
is  applied  to  the  outside,  works  its  way  into  the  cheese  before 
it  gets  bad.  It  should  be  noted,  that  such  cheese  has  to  be 
cured  in  a  cellar,  where  there  is  a  constant  low  temperature.  It 
would  otherwise  spoil. 

172.  EFFECT    OF    TOO    MUCH   SALT. 

If  a  cheese  is  salted  too  heavy,  it  becomes  dry  and  mealy, 
and  cures  very  slowly.  The  flavor  is  also  injured.  If  we  have 
bad  milk,  we  should  salt  higher  to  improve  the  flavor,  for  up  to 
a  certain  point,  this  is  accomplished  by  heavier  salting.  We 
believe  this  to  be  due  to  the  fact,  that  as  the  fermentation  is 
checked  by  more  salt,  the  gases  formed  have  a  chance  to  diffuse, 
and  get  out  of  the  cheese,  without  filling  it  with  holes,  and  the 
odor  of  the  gases.  Salt  may  also  check  the  action  of  the 
enzymes  in  their  work  of  digesting  the  casein.     (94.) 

We  would,  therefore,  if  we  wanted  to  make  a  fine  flavored 
cheese,  salt  it  pretty  heavy,  say  three  pounds  of  salt  per  one 
hundred  of  curd.  It  must  be  expected,  however,  that  such  a 
curd  will  cure  slowly.  We  cannot  make  the  best  kind  of  cheese 
in  a  day,  a  week,  nor  a  month.  If  one  wants  a  fast-curing 
cheese,  he  uses  more  rennet  and  less  salt,  but  the  product  will 
not  be  as  good  a  cheese.  It  will  not  be  as  c.lose,  nor  as  fine 
flavored,  for  the  gases  will  not  have  had  time  to  escape  from  the 
cheese.  If. one  is  making  a  fine,  slow-curing  cheese,  he  need 
not  expect  to  get  as  much  cheese  per  hundred  weight  of  milk,  as 
if  he  were  making  fast-curing  cheese,  for  the  salt  expels  the 
moisture  and  leaves  less  weight. 

In  an  experiment  in  the  Wisconsin  Dairy  School,  a  curd 
was  divided  into  three  equal  parts.  The  _  first  lot  received  no 
salt ;  the  second  lot  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  salt  per  hundred  ; 


80  Cheese  Making. 

and  the  third  lot  three  pounds  per  hundred.     The  curds  were 

then   pressed    separately,    and    the    green   cheese    weighed    as 

follows : 

The  cheese  with  no  salt 10        tbs. 

The  cheese  with  one  and  a  half  tbs.  of  salt.  . . .     9.75  lbs. 
The  cheese  with  three  pounds  of  salt 9.50  lbs. 

As    the    cheese    cured,    they    kept    their    relative    weights. 

Other  experiments  have  borne  out  this  result. 

173.  CURDS   NOT   ALWAYS    SALTED   THE    SAME   AMOUNT. 

But  curds  should  not  always  be  salted  at  the  same  rate, 
from  day  to  day. 

A  moist  curd  needs  more  salt  than  a  dry  one,  for  two 
reasons :  First,  the  excess  of  moisture  must  be  expelled  by  the 
addition  of  salt ;  .and  second,  as  the  expulsion  of  moisture  takes 
salt  with  it  in  solution,  enough  must  be  applied  to  leave  the 
proper  amount  in  the  cheese. 

174.  SA.LT    SHOULD   BE   EVENLY    DISTRIBUTED. 

It  is  also  essential,  that  the  salt  should  be  evenly  distributed 
through  the  cheese.  If  there  is  too  much  salt  in  the  curd  that 
is  put  into  the  hoop  last,  it  will  crack  the  rind  of  the  cheese. 

175.  APPLICATION   OF   SALT. 

The  curd  should  be  spread  out  evenly  in  the  curd  sink,  and 
a  part  of  the  salt  scattered  evenly  over  it.  The  curd  should 
then  be  stirred  thoroughly,  and  again ,  spread  out,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  salt  applied.  It  ought  to  be  stirred  every  ten 
minutes,  to  keep  the  salt  from  settling  to  the  bottom  of  the  pile 
in  the  brine. 

176.  TEMPERATURE   OF    SALTING. 

Before  salting-,  it  should  have  been  cooled  to  90°  F.,  for  if 
too  warm,  the  fat  may  be  expelled  in  large  quantities  with  the 
brine.  The  curd  should  not  be  put  to  press,  till  the  salt  has 
been  thoroughly  dissolved  and  worked  into  it. 

177.  CONDITION    OF    SALTED    CURD   FOR   PRESSING. 

It  will  have  a  harsh  feeling,  due  to  the  undissolved  salt 
crystals,  and  the  outside  of  the  pieces  of  curd  are  hardened,  so 
that  they  will  not  press  together  readily ;  but  as  the  salt  works 
into  the  curd,  it  will  regain  its  velvety  feeling.  When  this  con- 
dition has  been  reached,  which  is  usually  in  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes,  it  is  ready  for  the  press. 


Salting  and  Pressing  the  Curd.  81 

178.  removing  fat. 

As  indicated  in  paragraph  176  the  fat  may  run  over  the 
surface  of  the  curd  and  prevent  the  particles  cemeting.  This 
is  especially  true  of  a  curd  from  tainted  milk.  By  throwing  two 
or  three  pails  of  warm  water  (110°)  over  the  curd  this  fat  will 
be  washed  off,  and  then  ^  pail  of  cold  water  will  harden  the  curd 
so  that  the  fat  will  not  run.  Of  course  a  little  fat  is  lost  in  this 
way.  If  the  curing  room  is  cool  enough  to  permit,  salting  the 
curd  a  little  earlier  will  prevent  this. 

PRESSING  THE  CHEESE. 

179.  CURD    MUST    NOT    BE    TOO   WARM. 

Before  pressing,  the  curd  should  be  cooled  to  between 
eighty  and  eighty-five  degrees.  If  put  to  press  warmer,  the  fat 
runs,  and  large  quantities  of  it  are  lost.  It  also  runs  between 
the  pieces  of  curd  so  that  they  will  not  close  together,  and  under 
the  bandage,  preventing  it  from  sticking.  Poorly  closed  cheese 
has  often  been  blamed  to  the  curd  mill,  when  the  trouble  really 
lay  in  the  temperature  at  which  it  was  put  to  press. 

ISO.  CURD  MUST  XOT  BE  TOO  COLD. 

Of  course,  when  the  curd  is  much  below  80°,  it  will  not 
close  together,  but  there  is  a  happy  medium.  This  happy 
medium  varies  according  to  the  temperature  of  the  press  room. 
If  the  room  is  cold,  the  curd  will  cool  down.  A  cheese-maker 
must  have  some  brains  in  his  head,  and  use  them,  for  he  is  more 
than  a  mere  machine  to  be  wound  up  and  run  down.  A  proper 
temperature  for  the  press  room  is  about  70°. 

181.     COMMON  PACKAGES   OP  CHEESE 

There  are  four  common  packages,  into  which  American 
cheese  is  pressed,  namely,  Young  Americas,  weighing  nine  or 
ten  pounds,  flats  and  Cheddars,  weighing  respectively  thirty  and 
sixty  pounds,  and  daisies  weighing  twenty  pounds. 

The  common  diameter  of  flats  or  Cheddar  cheese  is  four- 
teen and  a  half  inches,  and  a  fiat  is  half  the  height  of  a  Cheddar. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  presses  used,  the  gang  and  the  up- 
right. The  upright  press  has  the  screws  in  an  upright  position, 
and  but  one  screw  to  a  cheese.  The  gang  press  has  one  hori- 
zontal   screw,   which    presses    anywhere    from    one    to    twenty 


82  Cheese  Making. 

cheese.  The  hoops  (Fraser)  are  made  a  httle  smaller  at  the 
bottom  than  the  top,  so  that  each  hoop  will  fit  over  the  next 
one  in  front  of  it. 

It  is  sometimes  claimed  for  upright  presses  that  the  pressure 
is  kept  up  better,  as  there  is  but  one  cheese  under  a  screw,  but 
they  are  hard  to  keep  clean  and  take  up  a  great  deal  of  room. 

The  Sprague  automatic  adjustable  gang  press  can  be  ad- 
justed to  fit  hoops  of  different  diameters.     This  press  as  well  as 


upright  Press. 

the  Helmer  is  arranged  so  that  a  continuous  pressure  is  kept 
on  the  cheese.  A  new  factory  should  certainly  be  equipped 
with  one  of  these  presses. 

In  the  Fraser  gang  hoop,  the  bandage  is  held  by  an  iron 
band,  which  slips  into  the  top  of  the  hoop.  This  iron  band  is 
called  the  "bandager." 

In  pressing  the  cheese,  the  maker  should  aim  to  turn  out 
a  perfect  cheese.     He  should  be  an  artist,  and  produce  an  ob- 


Salting  and  Pressing  the  Curd. 


83 


ject  of  beauty.  The  ends  should  be  square  with  its  height,  clean, 
and  the  bandage  turned  down  evenly  at  the  ends,  and  closed 
well  on  the  sides. 

182.     KIND  OF  BANDAGE  USED. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  bandages  used,  starched  and  seam- 
less. The  starched  bandage  is  made  from  the  starched  cloth, 
by  the  cheese  maker.  The  seamless  bandage  comes  in  the  form 
of  a  long  tube,  from  which  the  required  length  for  the  cheese  is 
cut.  But  the  starched  bandage  will  not  let  the  whey  out  prop- 
erly, and  consequently  the  cheese  does  not  close  on  the  sides. 
The  cheese  closes  much  better  with  the  unstarched,  seamless 
bandage. 

Ready-made  unstarched  bandages  of  better  quahty  than  the 
seamless  bandage  and  about  the  same  cost  are  now  in  the 
market. 


The    Helmer    Patent   Continuous    Pressure    Press. 
183.     HOW  THE   BANDAGE   IS   PUT   ONTO   THE    CHEESE. 

When  the  bandage  is  put  into  the  hoop,  the  edge  should 
be  turned  in  evenly,  for  about  an  inch  and  a  half  on  the  bottom, 
and  perhaps  dampened  to  hold  its  place. 

Before  putting  the  bandage  in,  the  bottom  cap  cloth  should 
be  put  in.  It  should  be  round,  and  as  large  as  the  bottom  of  the 
hoop  (fourteen  and  a  half  inches),  and  should  be  soaked  in  hot 
water.  Square  cap  cloth'l  lap  over  onto  the  sides  of  the  cheese, 
and  make  bad  looking  scars.  • 

J  84.     CHEESE   MUST  BE   THE   SAME   SIZE. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  put  the  same  amount  of  curd  into 
each  hoop,  so  that  the  cheese  will  all  be  the  same  height. 


84 


Cheese  Making. 


The  hoops  should  not  be  filled  so  full  that  the  cheese  comes 
above  the  junction  between  the  bandage  and  the  hoop,  for  in 
such  cases,  there  will  be  a  Httle  ridge  left  at  the  junction,  which 
will  disfigure  the  cheese. 

When  the  curd  has  been  filled  into  the  hoop,  the  top  cap 
cloth  is  put  on,  and  the  fibrous  ring  laid  around  the  edge,  to 
keep  the  curd  from  pushing  out,  and  then  the  follower  put  in. 
Usually  the  fibrous  ring  is  tacked  onto  the  follower,  and  while  it 


Pressure  block  in  position  in  the  press. 

may  fit  well,  it  quite  often  happens  that  it  does  not ;  and  the  curd 
will  push  out  at  the  places  where  the  ring  does  not  come  tight 
against  the  hoop.  There  is  another  point  in  having  the  fibrous 
ring  separate  from  the  follower,  which  will  be  noticed  when  we 
come  to  it  later  on.     (188.) 

185.     TIGHTEN    THE   PRESS    SLOWLY. 

After  the  hoops  have  been  slipped  into  place,  the  screw 
should  be  tightened  slowly,  to  let  the  whey  out  gradually.     A 


Salting  and  Pressing  the  Curd. 


85 


small  stream  of  brine  should  be  kept  flowing.  If  too  great 
pressure  is  applied  at  first,  the  fat  will  be  forced  out.  Curd 
closes  together  slowly,  as  will  be  seen  by  squeezing  it  in  the 
hand.  If  it  be  squeezed  suddenly,  and  then,  the  pressure  re- 
leased, it  will  fall  apart,  but  if  pressed  up  slowly  in  the  hand,  it 
will  stick  together.  The  full  pressure  should  not  be  reached 
for  about  fifteen  minutes. 

In  about  an  hour,  the  curd  will  be  pressed  together,  and 
then  the  bandage  should  be  turned  down  around  the  top  of  the 
cheese.  This  operation  is  generally  called  "dressing"  the  cheese. 


Eraser  Gang  Hoop. 
A,  Hoop.     B,   Bandager.     C,  Follower.     D,  Fibrous  ring. 
186.    DRESSING    THE    CHEESE. 

Set  the  hoops  in  an  upright  position,  and  take  out  the  fol- 
lowers, cap  cloths,  and  bandagers.  Pull  the  banadage  gently, 
to  be  sure  there  are  no  wrinkles  in  it,  and  then  trim  ofif  evenly 
all  around,  so  that  it  will  lap  over  onto  the  end  of  the  cheese 
about  an  inch  and  a  half.  Soak  it  down  into  position  with 
warm  water,  and  put  on  the  cap,  after  having  wrung  it  out  in 
warm  water.  Be  sure  there  are  no  wrinkles  in  the  cap,  for  they 
will  leave  bad  looking  marks  on  the  rind  of  the  cheese. 

Then  put  in  the  bandagers  to  keep  the  hoops  straight  in  the 
press,  and  the  fibrous  ring  and  follower,  and  close  up  the  press, 
putting  on  full  pressure.  Young  Americas,  however,  will  not 
stand  as  much  pressure,  for  they  do  not  have  as  much  surface 
as  larg-cr  cnee?c.  id  resist  It. 


Wilson  Cheese  Hoop. 


86  Cheese  Making. 

187.  the  wilson  hoop. 

Another  form  of  hoop  used  largely  in  Ohio  is  the  Wilson 
hoop  here  described. 

DIRECTIONS   FOR   USING  THE  WILSON    HOOPS. 

Each  hoop  consists  of  four  pieces,  as  follows : 

B.  The  bottom  cover,  with  the  widest  flange  or  rim. 
E.  The  open  wide  hoop. 

D.  The  closed  or  tight  wide  hoop. 

C.  The  top  cover  with  narrow  flange  or  rim. 

First — Place  the  cover  with  the  widest  rim  {B)  on  the 
ways  in  the  bottom  of  the  press. 

Second — Place  the  Cap  Cloth  on  the  bottom  of  the  cover 
{B).  Said  Cap  Cloth  should  be  as  large  as  the  bottom  of  the 
cover. 

Thikd^ — Place  within  the  bottom  of  cover  {A)  the  open 
hoop  or  bandage  (£). 

Fourth — Wet  one  edge  of  the  bandage,  adjust  with  the 
open  hoop  and  turn  the  wet  edge  over  the  top  of  the  hoop. 

Fifth — Put  the  closed  wide  hoop  (D)  on  top  of  the  open 
one,  letting  it  lap  over  about  one  inch,  and  fasten  the  hooks 
which  are  provided  to  keep  same  from  slipping  down. 

Sixth — Put  in  the  cheese  curd  as  may  be  desired,  for  any 
thickness  the  cheese  are  to  be  made,  but  always  put  in  enough 
so  that  the  outer  or  tight  hoop  in  slipping  over  the  open  one 
when  pressing  shall  not  quite  be  forced  down  to  meet  the  edge 
of  the  lower  cover. 

Seventh — Put  on  the  top  cover  (C),  then  unfasten  the 
hooks  under  the  handles,  then  turn  the  cheese  over,  placing  the 
top  cover  up  snug  against  the  head  of  the  press.  Proceed  in 
the  same  manner  with  the  balance  of  the  hoops  until  all  are 
filled,  placing  the  top  cover  against  the  bottom  of  the  previous 
one,  etc.     Then  proceed  to  pressing. 

Eighth — After  pressing  as  usual,  or  until  the  time  when 
the  bandage  is  to  be  turned  in  or  lapped  over  the  edge  of  the 
cheese  in  order  to  press  the  bandage  down,  it  is  well  to  remove 
the  cheese  from  the  hoop,  and  having  turned  it  over,  put  it  back 
in  the  hoop  with  the  other  face  up,  and  put  to  press  again.  ,  This 
will  be  found  to  remove  any  wrinkles  that  may  have  formed  in 
the  bandage. 


Salting  and  Pressing  the  Curd.  87 

188.    HOW  TO   GET   CHEESE  DRY. 

The  idea  that  we  make  a  cheese  dry  by  pressing  it  is  an 
erroneous  one.  The  whey  has  to  be  gotten  out  of  the  curd 
while  it  is  in  the  vat,  and  if  it  is  not  gotten  out  there,  no  amount 
of  squeezing  in  the  press  will  expel  it,  and  the  cheese  will  get 
sour. 

If  the  press  is  not  a  continuous  pressure  one,  as  is  likely 
the  case,  the  maker  should  tighten  the  press  the  last  thing  at 
night,  and  the  first  thing  in  the  morning. 

In  the  morning,  the  cheese  should  be  taken  out  of  the  hoops 
and  examined,  to  see  if  they  are  perfect  in  shape,  and  all  defects 
remedied.  If  the  bandage  does  not  stick,  the  cheese  should  be 
washed  with  warm  water,  and  after  being  tightened  in  the  press, 
hot  water  turned  on  to  warm  it  up.  If  the  edge  of  the  upper  end 
of  the  cheese  is  rough,  it  should  be  turned  end  for  end  in  the 
hoop.  In  either  case,  the  fibrous  ring  should  be  left  out,  so  that 
the  edge  of  the  cheese  will  come  out  on  the  hoop  square.  Of 
course,  it  must  be  watched,  to  see  that  the  cheese  does  not  push 
out  beyond  the  follower,  and  its  last  state  be  worse  than  the 
first;  but  if  the  pressure  is  carefully  apphed,  a  nice  square  edge 
can  be  put  onto  a  cheese  in  this  way, 

189.     DO   NOT   POUND   THE  HOOPS. 

The  cheese  should  slip  out  of  the  hoop  with  very  little 
pounding.  Pounding  loosens  the  rivets,  and  thereby  gets  the 
hoops  into  bad  repair,  as  well  as  loosens  the  bandage  on  the 
cheese,  and  sometimes  breaks  the  cheese. 

Where  a  knife  is  used  to  loosen  the  cheese,  the  bandage 
is  also  often  loosened.  If  the  cheese  does  not  slip  out  easily, 
grease  the  hoops.  The  hoops  should,  of  course,  be  kept  clean, 
and  if  it  is  necessary  to  grease  them,  clean  grease  can  be  applied. 

Cheese  should  never  be  taken  out  on  the  floor,  but  on  a 
press  board.  We  must  remember  that  cheese  is  an  article  of 
human  food.  Most  people  like  to  have  clean  food  to  eat,  and 
we  should  aim  to  be  just  as  clean  in  making  the  cheese  as 
though  the  consumers  were  watching  all  the  time. 

Wipe  the  cheese  ofif  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  then  put  them 
on  the  shelves,  marking  the  date  neatly.  Cheese  with  great 
big  marks  scrawled  over  them  do  not  look  attractive. 


88  Cheese  Making. 

190.  greasing  the  cheese. 

As  soon  as  the  rind  has  dried  off,  it  should  be  greased  with 
regular  cheese  grease.  The  practice  of  skimming  the  whey  after 
it  has  fermented  and  become  full  of  dirt  is  nothing  less  than  a 
dirty  trick.  Good  wholesome  cheese,  prepared  for  the  purpose, 
can  be  bought  of  regular  dealers  in  dairy  supplies,  and  nothing 
else  should  be  used. 

191.  CRACKS    IN    CHEESE. 

If  the  cheese  is  left  exposed  to  the  air  too  long  before  being 
greased,  it  will  crack.  Another  cause  of  the  rind  cracking  is  too 
much  acid  in  tlie  whey.  A  high  acid  cheese  will,  as  a  rule,  crack. 
A  draft  of  air  blowing  over  the  cheese  will  also  cause  it  to  crack. 
This,  of  course,  is  caused  by  the  air  absorbing  moisture  from 
the  rind.  We  think  that,  while  the  question  of  moisture  in  the 
curing  of  American  cheese  has  gone  almost  unconsidered,  more 
attention  must  be  paid  to  this  in  the  future. 

193.     CHEESE   IN   COLD    STORAGE. 

Cheese  held  in  cold  storage  are  very  likely  to  mould. 
Mould  works  into  the  cracks,  and  for  this  reason  buyers  do  not 
want  cracked  cheese.  The  rinds  of  high  acid  cheese,  held  in  cold 
storage,  will  also  begin  to  rot  at  the  middle. 

Sometimes  the  maker  leaves  the  caps,  or  press  cloths,  as 
they  are  sometimes  called,  on  until  a  few  days  before  shipping, 
and  then  pulls  them  off  and  greases  the  rinds. 

Sometimes  salt  sacks  made  out  of  heavy  ducking  are  used 
for  caps.  This  leaves  a  hard  but  very  rough  rind,  and  if  the 
cheese  is  held  in  cold  storage,  and  mould  grows  on  it,  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  get  the  mould  off,  and  buyers  are  strongly 
opposed  to  using  salt  sacks  for  this  purpose. 

193.     CLEANING   MOULDY    CHEESE. 

Cheese  that  gets  mouldy  in  cold  storage  is  put  into  a  sink 
of  hot  water,  to  which  a  little  ammonia  has  been  added,  and 
scrubbed  with  a  brush.  It  is  put  on  a  shelf  to  drain  and  dry,  and 
afterward  boxed  again. 

J  94.     CHEESE    CLOTH    CIRCLES. 

Sometimes  a  thin  "cap"  of  cheese  cloth,  called  a  "cheese 
cloth  circle,"  is  put  onto  the  end  of  the  cheese.  The  cheese 
cloth  circle  does  not  go  on  under  the  banda.ge  where  it  is  turned 


Salting  and  Pressing  the  Curd,  89 

down  on  the  end,  but  over  it.  In  using  the  circles  there  is  no 
need  of  cheese  grease  till  the  cheese  are  shipped.  The  circle  is 
then  pulled  off  and  the  rind  greased. 

The  circles  make  the  cheese  much  cleaner,  and  buyers  gen- 
erally prefer  them,  and  will  pay  more  money  for  the  cheese, 
usually  an  eighth  of  a  cent  a  pound  more.  The  cost  is  about 
one-sixteenth  of  a  cent  a  pound  on  flats.  Sometimes,  by  special 
agreement,  buyers  want  the  circles  left  on  the  cheese.  When 
the  cheese  come  out  of  cold  storages  they  are  cleaned,  the  cir- 
cles being  stripped  off,  leaving  a  clea.n  bright  rind,  which  is 
greased. 

They  should  be  but  twelve  or  thirteen  inches  in  diameter, 
as  they  sometimes  do  not  stick  under  .the  edge  where  they  lap 
over  the  bandage. 

195.     PRESS    CLOTHS. 

The  first  one  is  put  on  inside  the  "heavy  cap"  or  "press 
cloth,"  before  the  curd  is  put  into  the  hoop,  and  the  other  one 
is  put  in  when  the  cheese  is  "dressed." 


196.     KEEP  A   DAILY  RECORD. 

When  the  cheese  is  ready  to  ship  it  quite  often  happens 
that  a  maker  finds  something  peculiar  about  a  cheese  which 
he  wishes  to  avoid  or  reproduce  in  the  future,  but  he  does  not 
remember  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  making  of  that 
particular  cheese.  In  the  best  factories  a  daily  record  is  kept 
in  a  book  for  the  purpose  of  how  the  milk  and  curd  act.  This 
gives  them  a  history  of  each  cheese,  and  by  its  aid  the  maker  is 
often  able  to  remedy  defects  and  reproduce  the  better  points. 

The  following  is  a  blank  for  the  purpose : 

Date 190.. 

Vat  used  (Number  of  vat). 

Condition  g{  milk,  ^^ 

Per  cent  of  fat  in  milk,  "■ 


90  Cheese  Making. 

Pounds  of  milk  in  vat, 

Rennet  test  for  ripeness, 

Temperature  set, 

Time  set, 

Amount  of  rennet  used, 

Rate  of  rennet  per  1000  pounds  of  milk. 

Time  cut. 

Minutes  in  curdling. 

Time  steam  was  turned  on. 

Time  required  in  raising  to degrees, 

Hot  iron  test  when  dipped, 
Time  dipped. 

Time  from  cutting  to  dipping, 
Per  cent  of  fat  in  whey, 
Time  ground, 

Hot  iron  test  when  ground, 
Time  salted, 

Amount  of  salt  on  curd. 
Rate  of  salt  per  1000  lbs.  of  milk, 
Time  put  to  press, 
Kind  and  number  of  cheese  made. 
Time  dressed, 
Time  pressed. 
Weight  of  green  cheese, 

Average  weight  of  milk  per  pound  of  cheese. 
Highest  and  lowest  temperature  of  curing  room  for  last  twen- 
ty-four hours. 

Remarks — 

Under  the  head  of  remarks,  any  important  thing  not  in- 
cluded under  the  other  heads  may  be  noted,  such  as  a  gassy 
curd  or  washing  out  the  bad  flavor,  or  any  way  of  treatment 
different  from  the  ordinary  way. 

QUESTIONS  ON   CHAPTER  IX. 

1.  What  are  the  conditions  of  a  curd  when  ready  to  salt? 
2.  What  is  salt?  3.  Where  is  salt  found?  4.  What  are  the 
impurities  in  salt,  to  what  extent  do  they  occur,  and  what  are 
the  objections  to  them?  5.  What  does  salt  do  to  cheese?  6. 
Wihat  is  the  effect  of  too  much  salt?    7.  Does  salt  increase  or 


Salting  and  Pressing  the  Curd.  91 

diminish  the  weight  of  cheese,  and  why  ?  8.  Should  all  curds  be 
salted  aHke?  9.  How  should  salt  be  applied  to  a  curd?  10. 
When  is  a  curd  ready  to  press?  11.  What  prevents  cheese  from 
closing,  and  what  is  the  remedy?  12.  At  what  temperature 
should  curd  be  pressed,  and  why?  13.  What  are  the  common 
packages  of  cheese?  14.  How  do  upright  and  gang  presses 
compare?  15.  How  is  the  bandage  held  in  the  Fraser  hoop? 
16.  What  are  the  different  kinds  of  bandage  in  use?  17.  How  is 
the  bandage  put  onto  a  cheese?  18.  How  should  the  cap  cloths 
be  cut?  19.  How  full  should  a  hoop  be  filled?.  20.  How  fast 
should  the  press  be  tightened?  21.  What  is  meant  by  dressing 
the  cheese?  22.  Describe  the  Wilson  hoop.  23.  How  is  mois- 
ture expelled  from  a  cheese?  24.  Why  should  not  the  hoops 
be  pounded  to  get  the  cheese  out?  25.  Why  and  with  what 
should  cheese  be  greased?  26.  How  do  high  acid  cheese  behave 
in  cold  storage?  27.  How  can  mouldy  cheese  be  cleaned?  28. 
What  is  a  cheese  cloth  circle,  and  how  are  they  put  on  with 
reference  to  the  bandage?  29.  What  is  a  press  cloth?  30.  What 
is  the  advantage  of  a  daily  record? 


Chapter  X. 
CURING  AND  SHIPPING  THE  CHEESE. 


197.  CHANGES   IN    CURING. 

Wihen  cheese  is  caa.giilated  by  rennet,  the  coagulum  is 
called  paracasein.  In  curing  it  undergoes  changes  into  the  fol- 
lowing products  in  the  order  named.  Paracasein  changes  by 
the  action  of  lactic  acid  into  paracasein-monolactate  (lactic- 
acid-paracasein),  para  nuclein,  caseouses,  peptones,  amides  and 
ammonia.  The  first  changes  are  from  a  substance  insoluble  in 
water  to  substances  soluble.  These  substances  do  not  have 
much  flavor,  but  as  the  amides  develop  the  characteristic  flavor 
appears.  Dr.  Van  Slyke  has  shown  by  careful  chemical  analy- 
ses, extending  over  a  period  of  35  weeks,  that  the  rate  of  the 
formation  of  these  decomposition  products  is  dependent  upon 
the  temperature. 

198.  CURING  AT  DIFFERENT  TEMPERATURES. 

Cheese  will  cure  slowly  at  low  temperatures  and  be  of  fine 
flavor  a,nd  texture.  At  the  Wisconsin  Experimental  Station  a 
cheese  was  kept  at  a  temperature  of  15°  F.,  and  was  found  to 
have  cured  perfectly  and  to  be  of  a  very  fine  quality,  with  the 
exception  that  the  freezing  had  made  the  texture  crumbly.  As 
the  temperature  is  raised  the  cheese  cures  faster.  At  60°  to  65° 
the  most  rapid  curing  takes  place  at  which  a  good  cheese  can  be 
obtained.  A  temperature  of  70"^'  for  any  protracted  length  of 
time  will  injure  the  texture  and  flavor,  while  a  temperature  of 
80°  will  spoil  the  best  kind  of  a  cheese. 

199.  CURING   SHELVES,   HOW  MADE. 

The  cheese  should  be  cured  on  shelves  made  of  good  clear 
pine,  an  inch  and  a  half  thick  by  sixteen  inches  wide,  supported 
every  four  feet.  The  point  in  having  the  lumber  clear  is  that 
sap  and  pitch  will  be  in  the  knots  and  color  the  rinds.  The 
boards  should  be  wider  than  the  cheese,  for  if  the  cheese  pro- 
jects over  the  edge  a  mark  will  be  left  on  the  face  of  the  cheese. 
The  board  ought  to  be  heavy  and  the  supports  close  together 
in  order  to  prevent  sagging,  which  might  make  the  cheese, 
especially   Cheddars,   crooked.     The  cheese   should  be  turned 

92 


Curing  and  Shipping  the  Cheese.  93 

every  day,  and  the  shelves  wiped  with  a  clea.n  cloth.  Pains 
should  be  taken  not  to  soil  the  cheese  not  break  the  corners  in 
turning-  them. 

200.    ARRANGEMEi\T    OF    CHEESE. 

The  older  cheese  should  be  kept  on  the  lower  shelves,  and 
the  younger  ones  on  the  upper  shelves,  because  of  the  differ- 
ence in  temperature  between  the  upper  and  lower  portions  of 
the  room.  The  upper  shelves  being  warmer,  the  younger  will 
cure  faster  and  the  month's  make  of  cheese  will  be  evener  than 
if  this  rule  were  not  followed. 


Hygroiiiclcr   ui    llygiuscope. 

201.  MOISTURE    IN   THE    CURING   ROOM. 

A  matter  that  has  not  received  its  proper  attention  with 
American  or  Cheddar  cheese  is  the  humidity  of  the  air  in  the 
curing  room.  There  are  two  instruments  for  measuring  the 
humidity — the  hyg-roscope  and  psychrometer. 

202.  THE    HYGROSCOPE. 

The  hygroscope  is  an  instrument  consisting  of  a  coil  of  ma- 
terial very  sensitive  to  moisture.  As  it  takes  up  from  or  gives 
off  water  to  the  atmosphere  the  coil  moves  a  hand  around  a  dial 
which  shows  the  per  cent  of  saturation. 

203.  THE    PSYCHROMETER. 

The  psychrometer  consists  of  two  accurate  thermometers. 
On  the  bulb  of  one  is  a  wick  which  dips  in  a  cup  of  distilled 


94 


Cheese  Making. 


water.  When  the  air  is  saturated  it  has  all  the  water  it  will 
hold.  If  the  air  is  not  saturated  water  will  evaporate  from  the 
wick,  and  the  dryer  the  air  the  greater  the  evaporation.  As 
the  water  passes  from  around  the  bulb  into  the  air  it  lowers  the 
temperature.  The  United  States  Weather  Bureau  has  prepared 
a  table  of  readings  with  the  corresponding  humidity.  The  fol- 
lowing is  such  a  table  for  use  in  a  curing  room. 

The  thermometer  should  be  fanned  briskly  with  a  good  fan 
for  three  minutes,  and  then  the  leading  taken  quickly.  We  first 
find  the  dry  bulb  reading  on  the  chart  and  then  find  the  wet  bulb 


reading  in  the  next  column,  and  in  the  third  column,  opposite 
the  dry  bulb  reading,  is  the  relative  humidity,  or  per  cent  of  sat- 
uration, by  which  we  mean  the  per  cent  of  water  the  air  is  capa- 
ble, of  holding  at  that  temperature. 

The  psychrometer  is  not  as  handy  as  the  hygrometer,  but  is 
considered  to  be  more  reliable. 


Curing  and  Shipping  the  Cheese. 


95 


Table    Showing    the    Relative    Humidity    in    the    Air   of   Curing 
Rooms.     (King.) 


Directions. — Notice  that  the  table  is  in  three  column  sections.  Find 
air  temperature  in  first  column,  then  find  wet  bulb  temperature  in  second 
column,  same  division.    In  third  column  opposite  this  is  relative  humidity. 

Example. — Air  temperature  is  50°,  in  first  column;  wet  bulb  is  44°,  in 
second  column,  same  division.  Opposite  44°  is  61,  which  is  the  per  cent 
of  saturation,  or  the  relative  humidity  of  the  air. 


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Cheese  Making. 

HUMIDITY  IN  THE  AIR  OF  CURING  ROOM-Continued. 


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Curing  and  Shipping  the  Cheese. 

HUMIDITY  IN  the  AIR  OF  CURING  ROOM— Concluded. 


97 


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• 

98  Cheese  Making. 

204.  condition  op  the  curing  room  air. 

The  air  should  have  as  much  moisture  in  it  as  it  will  hold 
without  moulding-  the  cheese.  Cheese  will  stand  a  good  deal  if 
the  air  is  kept  moving,  perhaps  as  high  as  ninety  per  cent.  If 
kept  between  sixty  and  seventy  per  cent  it  is  very  fair,  but  the 
instruments  show  that  it  often  gets  down  to  twenty  or  thirty 
per  cent  and  the  cheese  dry  out  rapidly  and  crack. 

205.  SUPPLYING  MOISTURE. 

Moisture  can  be  supplied  by  sprinkling  the  floor,  or  T^etter 
still,  by  hanging  up  wet  sheets  that  are  constantly  supplied  with 
water. 

To  supply  a  curing  room  of  five  thousand  cubic  feet  ca- 
pacity, at  least  three  cloths  thirty  inches  wide  by  twelve  feet 
long  are  needed.  These  cloths  cannot  be  supplied  from  a  tank 
by  means  of  wicks,  but  if  there  is  plenty  of  running  water  a  pipe 
with  fine  holes  drilled  on  the  upper  side  might  be  arranged  to 
hang  the  cloths  on  and  water  run  through  the  pipe  would  keep 
the  cloths  saturated.  A  gutter  at  the  bottom  would  carry  ofif 
the  surplus  water. 

After  a  while  the  cloths  will  get  stiff  from  sediment  from 
the  w.a.ter.  ^  They  should  then  be  boiled  in  water  to  which  a 
little  hydrochloric  acid  has  been  added.  Do  not  use  enough 
acid  to  injure  the  cloth. 

SHIPPING  THE   CHEESE. 
206.     SHRINKAGE   IN  CURING. 

Loss  of  weight  in  curing  is  due  to  the  evaporation  of  the 
water  of  the  cheese  and  to*  chemical  changes.  The  factors 
aflfecting  the^  rate  of  loss  in  curing  are : 

1.  Temperature  of  curing  room. 

2.  Relative  humidity  of  the  air  of  the  curing  room. 

3.  Size  and  form  of  cheese. 

4.  Moisture  content  of  cheese. 

5.  -Protection  to  surfa.ce  of  cheese. 


Curing  and  Shipping  the  Cheese.  99 

The  following  table  taken  from  Bulletin  234  of  the  Geneva 
Experiment  Station  shows  both  the  effect  of  size  of  cheese  and 
temperature  of  room  on  shrinkage : 

PER  CENT.  OF  LOSS  IN  TWENTY  WEEKS. 


Weight  of 
Cheese. 

40  degrees. 

50  degrees. 

60  degrees. 

70  lbs. 

45  lbs. 

35  lbs. 

12>^  lbs. 

2.5 
2.7 
3.9 
4.6 

2.4 
3.7 
5.9 
8.1 

4.2 

5.1 

8.5 

12.0 

The  low  temperature  cheese  was  better  in  texture  and 
milder  in  flavor  than  the  cheese  cured  at  higher  temperatures 
and  the  low  temperatures  therefore  returned  more  money,  as 
shown  in  the  following  table: 


SHRINKAGE  IN  TWENTY  WEEKS. 

Temperature. 

Per  cent,  of 
Shrinkage. 

Scores  of 
Cheese. 

Value  of  100 
pounds  at  10c 
per  ponnd. 

40  degrees. 
50  degrees. 
60  degrees. 

3.8 
4.8 
7.8 

95.7 
94.2 
91.7 

$9.62 
9.52 
9.22 

At  the  end  of  twenty  weeks  the  cheese  cured  at  40°  F.  was 
worth  22>4  cents  more  per  100  pounds  than  that  cured  at  50°  F., 
and  60  cents  more  than  that  cured  at  60°  F. 


Cheese  Factory  at  Chimney  Rock,  Wisconsin.  The  cheese  is  not  cured  at  the  factory 
but  is  shipped  twice  a  week  to  a  central  curing  room  at  La  Crosse. 

207.     CEJVTRAL   CURING  ROOMS. 

It  seems  that  central  curing  rooms  will  be  the  most  eco- 
nomical method  of  handling  cheese.  A  small  building  con- 
taining the  machinery  for  making  cheese  can  be  erected  at  little 


100  Cheese  Making. 

expense.  Once  or  twice  a  week  the  cheese  from  a  number 
such  making  rooms  can  be  transferred  to  the  central  curing 
room  which  can  be  a  more  elaborate  affair — very  likely  cooled 
by  artificial  refrigeration.  It  will  reduce  the  labor  at  the  make 
rooms  vdry  materially  and  an  expert  can  spend  his  time  in  the 
curing  work. 

The  quality  of  cheese  is  not  only  enhanced  at  low  tempera- 
tures but  the  life  of  usefulness  of  the  cheese  is  greatly  extended. 

Combining  the  improved  quality  and  increased  quantity  of 
the  cheese  cured  at  40°  for  twenty  weeks  over  that  cured  at  60° 
for  the  same  length  of  time  according  to  Dr.  Van  Slyke  the 
saving  will  be  $1.08  per  100  pounds  of  cheese.  For  a  factory 
receiving  5,000  pounds  of  milk  per  day  this  would  mean  $5.40 
per  day.  For  ten  such  factories  $54  per  day.  Considering  the 
decreased  cost  of  handling  at  the  make  rooms  and  the  smaller 
cost  of  one  good  curing  building  in  the  place  of  ten  it  is  quite 
evident  that  the  central  curing  room  is  the  most  economical 
way  of  curing  cheese. 

208.     PARAFFINING  CUBBSE:. 

Evaporation  of  moisture  from  the  cheese  can  be  prevented 
by  applying  a  coat  of  paraffine  which  is  practically  impervious 
to  moisture.  If  applied  at  a  temperature  of  at  least  200°  F.  the 
cheese  will  remain  bright,  as  the  mold  spores  are  killed  at  that 
temperature  and  the  parafifine  adheres  firmly  to  the  surface  of 
the  cheese.  Applied  hot  less  parafifine  is  necessary,  thus  re- 
ducing the  expense  of  coating. 

The  vat  in  which  the  parafifine  is  melted  is  similar  to  a 
cheese  vat  but  much  smaller.  A  partition  three  inches  from 
one  end  does  not  reach  quite  to  the  bottom ;  the  large  cakes  of 
parafifine  are  slipped  behind  this  when  introduced  to  the  vat. 
The  parafifine  is  colored  a  light  yellow  with  a  little  cheese  or 
butter  color.  A  frame  for  holding  the  cheese  hangs  above  the 
vat  and  is  counterbalanced  by  a  weight  hanging  over  pulleys. 
The  cheese  is  placed  in  the  frame  over  the  vat  and  then  im- 
mersed for  a  few  seconds  in  the  hot  parafifine.  Then  it  is  allowed 
to  hang  for  a  few  minutes  to  harden  sufficiently  to  handle. 

Dr.  Van  Slyke  makes  the  following  statement  regarding 
parafifine  in  Bulletin  234  of  the  Geneva  Experiment  Station. 

"At  the  end  of  seventeen  weeks,  cheese  covered  with 
paraffine  had  lost  only  .3  pounds  for  100  pounds  of  cheese  placed 


CuRiNX.  Axi)  SiiiPi'iXG  TH1-:  Chei-:si-: 


101 


in  sioragc  at  in  i'".,  .5  pounds  at  oO"  F.,  and  l.t  pounds  at  (iO  F. 
The  saving  thus  effected,  based  on  the  uniform  price  of  cheese 
at  10  cents  per  pcjund,  would  average  about  35  cents  for  100 
pounds  of  cheese  cured  at  40^  F.,  43  cents  at  50'  F.  and  Gl  cents 


Paraffiniim  cheese  in  the 


-  oiiJ  dii  Lac.  Wi 


at  GO"  F. ;  or  comparing  cheese  kept  at  40"  F.  covered  with 
paraffine,  with  cheese  cured  at  GO^  F.  not  so  covered,  there 
would  be  a  difference  of  75  cents  an  hundred  in  favor  of  the 
paraffined  cheese." 

The  objection  has  been  made  that  hy  paraffming  cheese 
water  is  being  sold  for  cheese  which  is  a  fraud.  Dr.  \  an  Slyke 
answers  the  objection  by  saying  that  it  is  retaining  not  an  excess 
of  moisture  but  the  moisture  that  ought  to  be  kepi  in  the 
cheese.  The  English  trade  has  objected  to  coated  cheese  and 
Canadian  makers  are  conservative  alxnit  adopting  the  im-lliod. 
Some  factories  have  adoi)ted  the  method  of  coating  green 
cheese  fresh  from  the  hoop.  S<ime  Wisconsin  dealers  have  had 
trouble  with  some  such  cheese  turning  sour  and  going  off  flavor, 
^fost  wholesale  houses  are  jjaraffining  all  clu-ese  received,  but 


102  Cheese  Making. 

this    is    usually    two   or   three    weeks    old.      The    cheese-maker 
should  be  careful  about  paraffining  cheese  too  green. 

::oy.     CIIEESK,  HOW  BOXED. 

Young  Americas  are  shipped  four,  Chcildars  one,  and  flats 
generally  two,  in  a  box. 

Where  Mats  are  shipped  iwu  in  a  box  they  are  placed  one 
on  top  of  the  other,  and  are  in  that  case  termed  "twins."  When 
shipped  one  in  a  box  they  are  called  "singles." 

•^lO.     SCALE    BOARDS. 

That  the  rinds  of  the  cheese  may  be  well  protected  "scale 
boards,"  or  very  thin  basswood  or  whitewood  boards,  are 
placed  in  the  box.  Two  or  three  are  placed  on  each  end  of  the 
box,  and  two  or  three  between  twins.  This  number  is  more 
than  is  generally  used,  but  cheese  in  this  wa\-  keep  better  when 
placed  in  cold  storage,  if  Hats  are  put  ttjgether  without  scale 
boards,  and  left  for  any  great  length  of  lime,  they  will  stick 
together  so  tight  that  they  can  with  difficulty  be  pulled  apart. 
The  rinds  sweat  and  are  easily  broken.  They  therefore  need 
plenty  of  scale  boards.  The  boxes  should  be  trinnned  to  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  less  than  the  height  of  the  cheese,  so  that  it 
will  hold  its  place  and  arrive  in  market  in  good  condition.  They 
should  not  be  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  larger  in  diameter 
than  the  cheese  ;  if  there  is  too  much  room  in  the  box  the  cheese 
will  be  likely  to  roll  around  and  break  the  box.  ( Jn  the  other 
hand,  the  box  should  not  be  so  tight  that  the  clu-ese  will  stick 
in  it. 

Iloxes  that  are  split  or  poorly  nailed  should  be  thrown 
aside,  for  they  will  be  sure  to  arrive  in  the  market  in  a  dilapi- 
dated condition.  Cheese  makers  do  not  realize  that  boxes  tliat 
may  l)e  in  fair  condition  may  be  entirely  useless  al  the  other  end 
of  the  journey. 

211.     HOW    rilElOSE    AUE    UEKillEO. 

In  weighing  cheese  nothing  l)ut  full  pounds  are  counted. 
For  instance,  if  the  weight  is  60-'''4  pounds,  it  is  counted  but 
GO,  or  if  the  beam  barely  rises  at  (il  pounds,  it  is  counted  but  fiO, 
frir  in  coiu'se  of  transp<  irtation  it  would  lil<ely  lose  weight  and 
be  cut  down  when  it  is  in  the  hands  of  tiie  buyer.  In  the  large 
warehouses,  where  hundreds  of  boxes  arrive  in  a  single  day. 
thev  cannot  stop  to  weigh  every  box,  but  weigh  a   few  boxes. 


Curing  and  Shipping  the  Cheese.  103 

and  if  they  fall  short  the  whole  lot  is  docked  accordingly.    Such 
weighings  are  referred  to  an  official  weighmaster. 

212.  MARKING    OP    WEIGHTS. 

The  weight  should  be  stenciled,  or  plainly  marked,  on  the 
box  (not  the  cover)  next  to  the  seam,  where  it  can  readily  be 
found.  A  lead  pencil  hardly  makes  a  sufficiently  plain  mark  on 
a  cheese  box.  The  brand  of  the  firm  to  whom  the  cheese  is 
shipped  should  be  stenciled  on  the  other  side  of  the  box. 

213.  BUYER'S    STENCIL. 

The  buyer  generally  furnishes  a  stencil  for  this  purpose. 
Each  stencil,  so  issued  to  a  shipper,  has  a  distinguishing  number 
on  it,  which  is  recorded  in  the  buyer's  office,  and  by  referring 
to  the  number  he  can  tell  who  shipped  the  cheese.  This  is 
especially  necessary  where  several  factories  make  up  a  car  load 
of  cheese  for  a  firm. 

If  a  cheese-maker  has  any  cheese  tha.t  is  not  first-class  he 
should  put  a  distinguishing  mark  on  such  and  notify  the  buyer 
to  that  eflfect,  and  the  buyer  will  usually  deal  fairly  with  him,  for 
he  understands  that  the  maker  is  not  trying  to  take  advantage 
of  him. 

214.  HOW  TO   SELL   CHEESE. 

Cheese  is  sold  mostly  on  the  dairy  boards  of  trade.  The 
buyer,  after  he  bargains  for  the  cheese,  should  be  required  to 
inspect  the  cheese  at  the  factory  and  accept  or  reject  it.  He 
should  then  give  a  draft  on  a  local  bank,  for  the  amount.  The 
bank  then  draws  on  the  firm  for  the  amount,  at  the  place  of 
business  of  the  firm,  and  the  cheese  belongs  to  the  bank  till  the 
draft  is  honored.  This  is  a  strictly  cash  basis,  and  is  fair  to  both 
parties.  When  the  cheese  is  hauled  to  the  depot  the  boxes 
should  be  covered  with  blankets  to  protect  it  from  the  dust  and 
the  hot  rays  of  the  sun. 

QUESTIONS   on   CHAPTER   X. 

1.  What  is  the  curing  process  in  cheese?  2.  At  what  tem- 
perature should  cheese  be  cured?  3.  What  has  been  learned 
by  experiments  in  curing  cheese  from  the  same  lot  of  milk  at 
different  temperatures?  4.  How  should  the  curing  shelves  be 
made?     5.  How  should  the  cheese  be  arranged  on  the  shelves? 


104  Cheese  Making. 

6.  What  two  instruments  are  used  for  measuring  the  humidity 
of  the  atmosphere,  and  what  can  be  said  as  to  their  accuracy? 

7.  What  precautions  should  be  taken  in  reading  the  psychrome- 
ter?  8.  What  is  meant  by  relative  humidity,  or  per  cent  of 
saturation?  9.  What  should  be  the  relative  humidity  of  the 
curing  room?  10.  How  may  moisture  be  supplied  to  a  room 
artificially?  11.  How  much  cloth  surface  is  required  for  a 
room  containing  five  thousand  cubic  feet  of  space?  12.  How 
should  cheese  be  boxed?  13.  What  are  scale  boards  and  how 
should   they  be  used?     14.  How   should   cheese  be   weighed? 

15.  How  and  where  should  the  weights  be  marked  on  the  box? 

16.  Wliat  five  factors  affect  shrinkage  in  curing?  17.  What 
are  the  advantages  of  low  temperature  curing?  18.  What  are 
the  advantages  of  central  curing  rooms  ?  19.  What  is  the  pur- 
pose of  paraffining  cheese?  20.  At  what  temperature  should 
pa.rafHne  be  applied?  21.  How  does  the  shrinkage  between 
paraffined  and  unparaf^ined  cheese  compare?  22.  What  are 
the  objections  to  parafTfining? 


Chapter  XL 
JUDGING   CHEESE. 


215.    IDEAI.   CHEESE. 

One  trouble  that  cheese-makers  meet  with  is,  that  they  do 
not  have  the  proper  idea,  of  a  perfect  cheese  in  their  minds.  This 
arises  largely  from  the  circumstances  under  which  they  are 
placed.  The  cheese  are  shipped  out  of  the  factory  as  soon  as 
the  buyer  will  take  them,  the  youngest  being  but  a  week  or  ten 
days  old.  The  cheese  may  have  defects,  but  the  maker  does  not 
get  a  chance  to  see  how  it  will  turn  out. 

Cheese  exhibited  at  the  Wisconsin  Dairymen's  Convention 

is  scored  according  to  the  following  scale : 

Flavor    50 

Texture  30 

Salt  10 

Color 10 

Total  100 


i 


To  try  a  cheese,  a  plug  is  pulled  from  it  by  means  of  a 
cheese  trier.  The  trier  should  be  thin,  round  and  a  little  taper- 
ing, so  that  it  will  pull  a  round  smooth  plug.  A  plug  should 
always  be  taken  from  the  top  of  the  cheese.  Never  plug  it 
through  the  bandage. 

216.     FLAVOR. 

Flavor  is  the  most  important  item  in  the  quality  of  a  cheese. 
No  matter  how  good  the  other  points  may  be,  if  the  flavor  is 
bad,  the  cheese  will  be  condemned.  It  would  be  a  difficult  mat- 
ter to  describe  accurately  just  what  the  flavor  should  be  like,  for 

105 


106  Cheese  Making. 

there  are  different  flavors  in  cheese,  which  may  be  equally 
good.  This  comes  about  from  the  different  ferments  in  the 
cheese  which  we  cannot  as  yet  entirely  control.  In  another  five 
years,  bacteriological  research  will  probably  overcome  this  diffi- 
culty for  us. 

The  old  saying  that  "the  proof  of  the  pudding  is  in  the  eat- 
ing of  it,"  is  true  "of  cheese.  If  it  tastes  good  and  we  want  more 
of  it,  it  is  just  the  flavor  we  should  have.  It  should  not  be 
sharp  so  that  it  will  bite  the  tongue,  but  of  a  mild  lasting  taste. 
A  great  many  cheese,  in  which  the  flavor  cannot  be  termed  bad, 
are  still  on  the  negative  side ;  they  do  not  h'ave  that  fine  lasting 
aroma,  although  we  can  eat  them  quite  agreeably,  but  do  not 
feel  that  it  is  a  matter  of  very  great  importance,  whether  we 
can  have  more  of  the  same  or  not. 

Where  experts  are  judging  cheese,  they  seldom  taste  of  any. 
They  get  the  flavor  simply  by  the  smell,  for  if  they  tasted  of 
every  plug  they  would  soon  be  confused  as  to  flavor. 

If  a  cheese  is  cold,  it  should  first  be  warmed  up  in  the 
fingers,  before  looking  for  the  flavor. 

217.     TEXTURE. 

While  flavor  stands  first  in  importance,  the  texture  of  a 
cheese  comes  next.  The  plug  should  be  smooth,  not  fuzzy.  If 
the  cheese  is  not  fully  cured  the  plug  should  bend  a  little  before 
breaking.  When  held  between  the  eye  and  the  light  it  should  be 
slightly  translucent.  If  the  light  does  not  come  through  it,  it  is 
a  sign  that  the  texture  has  been  injured  in  the  manufacture, 
probably  by  too  high  acid.  When  a  piece  is  broken  from  the 
plug,  it  should  not  crumble  off,  but  should  show  a  surface  such 
as  flint  does  when  broken,  and  is  therefore  termed  a  "flinty 
breaJc."  When  pressed  between  the  fingers  it  should  not  stick 
to  them  but  should  mould  like  wax.  Cheese  that  is  tough  and 
will  not  come  down  readily  between  the  fingers,  is  said  to  be 
"corky,"  and  is  probably  due  to  over-cooking  or  insufficient 
quantity  of  rennet  to  cure  it  properly.  Cheese  should  not  be 
mealy,  as  is  the  case  with  high  acid  or  too  highly  salted  cheese. 

A  cheese  with  good  texture  should  not  have  any  round, 
smooth  or  ragged  holes  in  it ;  but  should  be  as  solid  as  a  board. 

Cheese  with  the  round  holes,  or  one  that  is  soft  and  pasty, 
will  go  off  flavor  on  further  keeping. 


Judging  Cheese.  107 

218.  SALT. 

As  was  said  under  the  subject  of  salting  the  curd,  salt  gives 
flavor  to  a  cheese.  In  fact,  the  whole  subject  of  flavor  is  affected 
by  the  salt.  Cheese  that  are  a  little  soft  and  a  little  inferior  in 
flavor  could  have  been  entirely  remedied  by  using  a  little  more 
salt.  It  has  also  been  stated  that  salt  may  injure  both  the 
texture  and  flavor  by  using  too  much.  The  influence  of  salt  is, 
therefore,  partly  considered  under  texture  and  flavor. 

219.  COLOR. 

Like  salt,  the  color  of  a  cheese  is  another  way  of  judging 
its  texture  and  flavor.  A  cheese  without  any  coloring  matter 
added  to  it  is  improperly  termed  "white."  An  uncolored  cheese 
should  never  be  white,  but  of  a  light  amber  color.  If  it  is  a 
dead  white,  it  is  so  because  the  acid  ha.s  cut  the  color  out  of  it. 
Of  course  in  a  colored  cheese,  these  things  would  be  more  easily 
seen. 

The  color  should  be  even  from  one  end  of  the  plug  to  the 
other.  A  high  acid  cheese  will  give  a  distinct  odor  to  the  trier, 
the  same  as  when  acid  attacks  steel. 

In  judging  cheese,  unless  some  particular  market  is  in  view, 
the  shade  of  color  cannot  be  taken  into  consideration.  New 
Orleans  requires  a  very  high  color,  St.  Louis  less,  and  Chicago 
still  less,  while  Boston  in  this  country,  and  Bristol  in  England, 
want  no  artificial  coloring.  The  tendency  toward  making  un- 
colored cheese  seems  to  be  increasing. 

220.  GROSS   APPEARANCE. 

A  good  judge  can  usually  tell  the  quality  of  a  cheese  from 
the  outside  appearance.  It  should  be  square,  ajid  the  rind  with- 
out cracks,  for  cracks  indicate  high  acid.  When  the  fingers 
are  run  over  the  surface,  it  should  be  springy,  that  is,  it  should 
give  readily  under  the  pressure  and  regain  its  position.  If  the 
finger  sinks  into  a  place  which  does  not  spring  back,  it  indicates 
a  hole  or  soft  place  in  the  cheese.  The  rind  should  not  have 
any  white  spots  on  it,  as  these  indicate  whey.  Sometimes  the 
white  spots  will  disappear  in  time,  but  it  is  a  weak  point  in  the 
quality  of  the  cheese.  When  the  plug  has  been  replaced  in  the 
cheese,  the  place  should  be  greased  over,  to  keep  the  cheese 
from  drying  out,  and  skippers  from  getting  into  the  same. 


108  Cheese  Making. 

221.  wisconsin  factory  chebsk  ihakdrs'  scale. 

The    scale    adopted    by    the    Wisconsin    Factory    Cheese 

Makers'  Association  at  Fond  du  Lac,  1895,  is  an  improvement 

over  the  old  one.     It  is  as  follows : 

Flavor 45 

Texture  30 

Color 10 

Make  up  and  general  appearance 15 

Total    100 

In  this  the  salt  is  judged  in  flavor  and  texture  w^here  it 

belongs,  while  the  very  important  item  of  the  neat  way  in  which 

the  cheese  is  put  up  gets  proper  consideration.     Under  the  old 

scale  a  dirty,  poorly  bandaged,  crooked  cheese,  might  get  as 

high  a  score  as  a  neat  square  one. 

The  English  scale  of  points : 

Flavor    35 

Quality    25 

Texture    ; 15 

Color    15 

Make    10 

Total 100 

In  the  above  English  scale  quality,  that  considers  that  the 
cheese  should  be  mellow,  rich,  melting  on  the  tongue,  applies 
to  an  old,  well  cured  cheese.  The  cheese  that  goes  onto  the 
market  in  this  country  would  not  do  that. 

222.  CORKY    CHEESE. 

A  corky  cheese,  as  its  name  implies,  has  a  texture  re- 
sembling that  of  cork.  It  does  not  break  down  and  probably 
will  crumble  in  the  fingers.  There  are  two  general  causes, 
over  cook  and  too  little  rennet.  If  the  cause  is  the  latter  the 
cheese  will  improve  with  age. 

223.  HARD,   CRUMBLY  OR  MEALY  CHEESE. 

Too  much  salt  will  make  a  hard  cheese  that  will  probably 
be  mealy.  A  high  acid  cheese  will  have  a  similar  texture,  but 
the  color  will  be  cut  and  the  flavor  affected  by  the  acid  so  that 
the  cause  can  be  distinguished. 

224.  WEAK   BODIED,  PASTY   CHEESE. 

Cheese  that  ha,s  too  much  whey  left  in  it  either  by  under 
cook  or  insufficient  stirring  when  dipped,  will  be  soft,  and  will 
not  mold  properly,  but  stick  to  the  fingers.     Such  a  cheese  will 


Judging  Cheese.  109 

show  mottled  spots  on  the  rind.  Too  much  piling  on  the  racks 
will  make  a  weak  bodied  cheese.  In  extreme  cases  the  whey 
will  run  out  causing  what  is  termed  a  leaky  cheese.  The  danger 
of  weak  bodied  cheese  is  that  they  may  become  sour. 

225.  CRACKED   CHEESE. 

Cracked  cheese  are  caused  either  by  sour  curds  or  by  in- 
sufficient closing  in  the  press.  The  latter  probably  comes  from 
fat  covering  the  particles  of  curd  and  preventing  their  cement- 
ing into  one  mass.  It  may  also  be  caused  by  over  cook  or 
by  a  draft  of  air  blowing  over  a  cheese  and  drying  it  out  rapidly. 
Cheese  are  more  apt  to  crack  in  a  dry  curing  room  in  dry 
weather. 

226.  POISON   CHEESE. 

There  are  occasional  reports  of  people  being  poisoned  by 
eating  cheese.  Fortunately  these  cases  are  quite  rare,  but  as 
these  cases  are  isolated  it  is  difficult  for  scientists  to  trace  the 
full  history  of  the  cheese.  Professor  Vaughan,  of  Michigan, 
some  years  ago  carried  on  quite  an  extensive  investigation  of 
the  chemical  nature  of  such  cheese  and  isolated  a  poison  called 
tyrotoxicon.  This  poison  causes  cramps,  acts  as  a  purgative 
and  paralyzes  the  lower  limbs.  The  author's  attention  was 
called  to  the  case  of  a  factory  in  which  some  poison  cheese  had 
been  made.  The  factory  was  kept  in  a  neat  and  tidy  manner 
so  that  it  is  not  probable  the  poison  resulted  from  carelessness 
at  the  factory.  The  maker  stated,  however,  that  every  cheese 
containing  poison  had  been  made  where  the  milk  was  held 
several  days  before  making  into  cheese,  and  in  no  case  was 
poison  in  the  cheese  where  the  milk  was  made  up  each  day. 
The  grea.t  majority  of  cases  of  ice  cream  poisoning  have  been 
traced  to  church  socials,  where  the  cream  was  gathered  and 
held  several  days  before  freezing.  This  evidence  would  indicate 
that  the  poison  is  more  likely  to  occur  where  the  milk  is  held 
several  days  before  being  made  up. 

227.     RUSTY   SPOTS  IN  CHEESE. 

Rusty  spots  in  cheese  are  caused  by  bacillus  rudensis,  first 
discovered  by  W.  T.  Connell  in  1896  in  a.  Canadian  factory. 
Spots  the  size  of  a  pinhead  or  larger  can  be  seen  at  a  distance 
of  several  feet.  In  bad  cases  the  cheese  is  colored  as  highly  as 
if  by  annate,  but  uneven  in  distribution.  It  is  more  prevalent 
around    gas    holes    and    moist    spots.     A    warm    curing    room 


110  Cheese  Making. 

hastens  and  a  cool  room  retards  them.  They  usually  appear  in 
four  to  eight  days.  If  they  do  not  appear  in  ten  days  there  will 
be  no  cut  in  price.  There  is  no  injury  to  texture  or  flavor,  but 
the  consumer  objects  to  the  appearance. 

It  broke  out  first  in  1883  in  a  mild  form  in  St.  Lawrence 
County,  N.  Y.  In  1884  it  was  worse,  occurring  mostly  in  the 
fall  months.  The  factory  at  Hailesboro  had  it  develop  in  1892 
and  the  factory  had  eventually  to  be  abandoned  for  cheese. 
Other  factories  in  New  York  and  Canada  have  been  troubled 
but  it  has  not  appeared  in  other  parts  of  the  country.  Harding 
and  Smith  of  the  Geneva  Experiment  Station  have  carried  on 
investigations  which  show  that  the  factory  is  usually  the  main 
seed  bed,  though  the  bacillus  is  found  in  the  milk  of  certain 
dairies. 

If  all  of  the  apparatus  is  put  into  the  cheese  vat  and  cov- 
ered tightly  and  a  jet  of  live  steam  turned  in  on  the  utensils  for 
an  hour,  this  operation  to  be  repea.ted  three  times  a  week,  the 
trouble  can  be  practically  eliminated. 

QUESTIONS   ON   CHAPTER    XI. 

1.  What  are  the  points  in  judging  cheese  and  what  im- 
portance is  attached  to  each?  2.  Describe  the  flavor  of  a  good 
cheese.  3.  Describe  a  good  texture.  4.  How  does  salt  aflfect 
flavor  and  texture?  5.  Describe  a  good  color.  6.  What  can 
be  learned  from  the  gross  appearance  of  a  cheese?  7.  What 
are  the  English  standards  for  cheese?  8.  What  is  a  corky 
cheese  and  its  two  principle  causes?  9.  What  are  the  causes 
of  hard,  crumbly  or  mealy  cheese?  10.  What  is  a  weak  bodied 
or  pasty  cheese  and  how  is  it  caused?  11.  What  are  the  causes 
of  cheese  cracking?  12.  What  are  rusty  spots  in  cheese  and 
how  caused?  13.  How  extensive  has  .the  trouble  of  rusty  spots 
been  ?     14.  What  is  the  method  of  combating  rusty  spots  ? 


Chapter  XII. 

HINTS  ON  THE  CONSTRUCTION  AND  OPERA- 
TION OF  CHEESE  FACTORIES. 


228.     INDEPENDENT    FACTORIES. 

In  the  closing  pages  of  Chapter  X  the  advantage  of  the 
central  curing  room  has  been  set  forth.  This  will  apply  only 
where  one  person  controls  a  large  territory  or  where  factories 
combine.  The  problem  of  the  single  factory  still  remains  and 
in  this  chapter  the  construction  and  operation  of  such  an  inde- 
pendent factory  will  be  presented. 

Our  factory  will  be  equipped  for  ten  thousand  pounds  of 
milk  a  day,  which  is  small  enough. 

239.     ONTARIO    CHEESE    FACTORIES. 

One  secret  of  Western  Ontario's  success  is  in  the  fact  that 
her  factories  are  large,  well  built,  and  properly  equipped. 
On  pages  105  and  109  the  plans  for  a  factory  are  given. 

230.  GOOD  FOUNDATIONS. 

In  the  first  place  there  should  be  good  solid  foundations, 
either  of  stone  piers,  or  gas  pipe,  which  allows  the  ground 
to  heave  and  settle,  without  raising  or  lowering  the  building. 
The  supports  should  be  close  enough  together  to  hold  the  sills 
in  place. 

231.  DIMENSIONS. 

Our  plans  call  for  a  making  room  20x30  feet,  with  an 
office  ten  feet  square  taken  out  of  one  corner  of  it,  a.nd  a  boiler 
room  10x16  feet  attached,  and  a  curing  house  20x40  feet,  two 
stories  high. 

232.  STOREROOM. 

The  upper  story  should  never  be  used  for  curing  cheese, 
but  for  storing  cheese  boxes  and  other  supplies. 
Ill 


112 


Cheese  Making. 


233.  CURING   ROOM. 

Some  Canadian  factories  have  the  curing  house  separate 
from  the  rest  of  the  factory,  but  we  can  build  them  together  and 
save  the  lumber  for  a  second  wall,  which  would  be  necessary 
if  they  were  separated. 

234.  SIULS. 

We  should  have  8xl2-inch  sills  around  the  outside  of  both 
parts  of  the  building.  There  should  be  two  6x8-inch  stringers, 
running  across  the  make-room,  and  one  of  the  same  dimen- 
sions running  through  the  middle  of  the  long  way  of  the  curing 

T 


Cu-r-ini  SKeluea 


Curinol^oom 


^ 


I'oom.  Ten-foot  joists  ca,n  be  put  between  the  sills  and  string- 
ers. The  dimensions  of  these  joists  should  be  2x10  inches,  and 
they  can  be  placed  eighteen  inches  apart. 

235.     CURING    ROOM    FLOOR. 

The  joists  under  the  curing  room  should  have  rough  boards 
nailed  close  together  on  the  under  side,  and  a  five-inch  layer 
of  tanbark  put  in  between  them.  There  will  then  be  a  five-inch 
space  left  above  the  tanbark,  over  which  a  tight,  heavy  floor  is 


113 


114  Cheese  Making. 

to  be  laid.  This  may  be  made,  by  first  laying  rough  boards, 
and  covering  with  paper,  and  then  laying  the  regular  flooring. 
The  tanbark,  air  space  and  tight  floor  are  to  protect  from  out- 
side temperature. 

236.  VAT   ROOM   FLOOR. 

The  making  room  should  have  a  heavy  two-inch  floor, 
preferably  of  maple.  It  must  slope  at  a  scale  of  one  inch  in 
five  feet,  toward  a  ditch  at  the  lower  end  of  the  vats  or  twenty 
feet  from  the  front  end  of  the  room. 

237.  CURING  ROOM  WALLS. 

Paper  can  be  put  on  the  studding  under  the  siding,  and 
the  walls  lathed  and  plastered.  The  studding  is  of  2x4,  such  as 
is  generally  used,  and  if  tanbark  can  be  easily  obtained,  it  can 
be  filled  in  between  the  studding.  Tanbark  is  better  than  saw- 
dust for  filling  in  such  places,  as  mice  are  not  inclined  to  work 
in  it  as  much.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say,  that  the  top  of  the 
room  should  either  be  ceiled  or  plastered. 

The  curing  room  must  practically  be  a  large  box,  with  walls 
so  constructed  that  the  temperature  inside  will  be  afifected  as 
little  as  possible  by  the  temperature  outside ;  some  means  of 
introducing  cool,  fresh  air  into  the  curing  room  is  highly  de- 
sirable. 

The  walls  and  ceilings  will  therefore  have  to  be  of  several 
thicknesses,  with  air  spaces  between,  like  the  floor  which  we 
have  already  described. 

238.  DOORS  AND  WINDOWS. 

We  must  not  forget,  after  we  have  built  such  walls,  to  have 
the  windows  fit  tight  and  have  shutters  on  the  outside.  The 
doors  must  be  heavy,  -with  air  spaces  in  them,  and  close  tight 
with  a  lever  latch  like  a  refrigerator  door. 

To  construct  our  walls,  we  may  put  our  2x4  studding  two 
feet  apart,  which  is  to  be  lathed  and  plastered  inside.  On  the 
outside,  rough  boards  and  paper  may  be  put,  and  then  another 
row  of  studding,  and  paper  nailed  on  with  boards  on  the  outside 
of  these.  In  the  spaces  in  the  outer  row  of  studding,  tanbark 
may  be  filled  in. 

239.  JOISTS. 

The  joists  in  the  ceiling  should  be  2x6,  ten  feet  long, 
eighteen  inches  apart,  supported  by  4x6  running  crosswise  of 


Construction  and  Operation.  115 

the  room.  If  the  room  is  ceiled  overhead,  tanbark  three  inches 
deep  can  be  filled  in  between  the  joists,  and  then  a  layer  of  paper 
put  down  before  the  floor  is  laid.  If  the  room  is  lathed  and 
plastered,  boards  must  be  put  in  to  hold  the  tanbark.  The 
second  story,  which  is  used  only  as  a  store  room,  need  not  have 
double  walls.  A  tight-fitting  trap  door  should  be  made  be- 
tween the  store  room  above  and  the  curing  room  below,  through 
which  to  get  the  cheese  boxes  down. 

240.  STONE   CELLAR. 

A  better  wall  for  the  curing  room  in  the  first  story  may  be 
made  of  stone,  and  built  into  the  side  of  a  hill,  for  still  greater 
protection  from  outside  temperatures,  as  in  the  case  with 
cellars  for  curing  of  brick  and  Swiss  cheese.  The  stone  and 
earth  help  to  keep  down  the  temperature  of  the  air  in  the  room. 

241.  CURING    CELLARS. 

In  some  places  cellars  made  for  curing  brick  cheese  have 
been  used  with  splendid  resuhs  with  Cheddar  cheese.  Such  a 
cellar  is  built  into  the  side  of  a  hill,  is  stoned  up  on  the  sides  and 
rises  above  the  ground  just  far  enough  for  small  windows 
around  the  top.  One  trouble  with  these  cellars  is  that  they 
are  sometimes  so  damp  that  cheese  will  mould  rapidly. 

243.     CELLAR,    HOW    VENTILATED. 

This  can  be  obviated  by  ventilation.  At  each  end  of  the 
room  is  an  eight-inch  pipe  running  up  through  the  roof.  One 
of  these  has  a  cone  above  it  to  prevent  the  rain  coming  in 
through  it.  On  the  top  of  the  other  is  a  hood  with  a  tail  that 
keeps  the  hood  always  facing  toward  the  wind,  and  the  wind 
striking  into  the  hood  carries  a  current  of  air  down  into  the 
room,  while  another  current  of  air  goes  out  of  the  other  pipe. 
Dampers  similar  to  those  piat  into  stovepipes  can  be  arranged 
ih  these  pipes  to  regulate  the  flow  of  air.  If  the  air  should  get 
too  dry,  moisture  could  be-supplied  by  means  of  wet  sheets.  We. 
have  seen  such  curing  cellars  where  the  inside  temperature  did 
not  go  above  sixty-five  degrees,  while  that  outside  was  eighty- 
five  to  ninety.  We  would  have  to  .change  the  plans  of  the  fac- 
tory here  given  for  such  a  curing  cellar. 

243.     SUB-EARTH  DUCTS. 

In  liis  first  edition  of  "Cheddar  Cheese  Making,"  published 
in   1893,  the  author  advocated   the  use  of  sub-earth  ducts  for 


116 


Cheese  Making. 


cooling  curing  rooms.  Since  then  the  system  has  been  put  into 
use  and  is  very  successful.  As  one  descends  into  the  ground 
the  effect  of  the  sun's  heat  is  left  behind.  Lower  down  the 
internal  heat  is  felt,  but  in  a  zone  said  to  be  between  twenty 
and  eighty  feet  below  the  surface  there  is  a  constant  tempera- 
ture of  48°  to  50°  or  possibly  colder.  This  is  indicated  by  the 
temperature  of  the  spring  and  well  water  that  comes  to  the 
surface.  By  conducting  air  down  into  the  ground  and  then 
through  a  system  of  tubes  ten  or  twelve  feet  below  the  surface 


<^^ 


Ventilation  of  a  cellar  curing  room  by  means  oi  a  cowl  and  ventilator  shaft. 


for  a  hundred  feet  or  more,  it  can  be  carried  into  the  curing 
room  at  a  temperature  of  not  over  60°  F.  If  the  curing  room 
is  well  insulated  the  air  cannot  get  in  at  any  other  place  and 
will  be  cool.  The  air  is  forced  into  the  duct  by  means  of  a 
cowl,  which  always  faces  the  wind,  which  is  thereby  forced 
down  a  tube  into  the  duct.  An  outlet  from  the  top  of  the  curing 
room  allows  the  warm  air  to  escape.  Our  curing  room  if  built 
as  described,  would  be  right  to  use  with  a  sub-earth  duct,  but 
we  would  suggest  that  double  windows  and  doors  be  put  in  to 
make  the  room  perfectly  tight.     The  illustrations  here  given  of 


Construction  and  Operation. 


117 


the  construction  of  the  walls  of  a  room  and  of  a  duct  are  taken 
from  Bulletin  70,  of  the  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station. 


Plate  showing  how  funnel  and  vane  may  be  mounted.  A,  funnel;  B,  shaft  of  fun- 
nel; C,  C,  C,  1-inch  gas  pipe;  D,  D,  1%-inch  gas  pipe;  E,  cap  for  support  of  1-inch 
gas  pipe;  F,  G,  H,  and  M  M  and  N  N  are  stays  of  band  iron  bolted  together  and  to 
the  sides  of  the  shaft  to  support  the  axis  of  the  funnel;  J,  weather  collar  to  turn  rain 
out  of  shaft.     K,  L,  band-iron  to  stiffen  vane  and  attach  it  to  funnel. 

Diagram  for  construction  of  a  cowl  for  a  sub-earth  duct. 

244.  USE  OF  A   WELL. 

One  of  our  illustrations  (page  114)  shows  how  a  well  was 
used  for  cooling-  the  air  for  a  curing-  room.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  successful  ducts  in  operation. 

245.  NUMBER  AND   SIZE  OF  TILES. 

The  first  ducts  constructed  were  single  tubes  and  were  too 
near  the  surface  and  therefore  unsuccessful.  The  first  success- 
ful duct  was  made  by  placing  thirteen  rows,  one  hundred  feet 
long,  of  six-inch  tiles  eight  to  ten  feet  in  the  ground.     These 


Plate  showing  the  construction  of  wood  curing  room.  1,  1,  1,  sill ;  2,  2,  2,  a  two- 
by-ten  spiked  to  ends  of  joist;  3,  3,  3,  a  two-by-four  spiked  down  after  first  layer  of 
floor  is  laid  to  toe-nail  studs  to;  4,  4,  4,  a  two-by-four  spiked  to  upper  ends  of  stud- 
ding of  first  story;  A,  A,  A,  A,  three-ply  acid  and  waterproof  paper.  The  drawing 
in  the  center  shows  space  between  studding  filled  with  sawdust  and  another  dead-air 
space  to  be  used  when  the  best  ducts  cannot  be  provided. 


118 


J 

-> 

I 

f  . 

"^ 

J 

'  H 

A 

Plate  showing  section  of  cheese  curing  room  and  horizontal  multiple  sub-earth 
duct.  A,  inlet  to  curing  room;  B,  end  of  sub-earth  duct  in  bricked  entrance  to  fac- 
tory; C,  cross-section  of  the  multiple  ducts  as  placed  in  the  factory  of  A.  C.  Werth, 
Neenah,  Wis.  D,  E,  bricked  entrance  under  funnel  at  outer  end  of  sub-earth  duct; 
F,  funnel  with  mouth  36  inches  across;  G,  vane  to  hold  funnel  to  the  wind. 


119 


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A 

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rr^ 

'-y:r--A 

•  '•..  ■•."  ■  •  •  .•  •  ••■•*^  1 

■■■■■•■■H, 

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11 

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lil 

^1-  '■'■•'■:  ■'•■.•' 

i  ="      ■  . ,      .     • 

Plate  showing  vertical  section  of  Mr.  J.  F.  Steinwahn's  factory  and  sub-earth  duct 
in  well  at  Colby,  Wis.  A,  A,  funnel  taking  air  into  well;  B,  B,  B,  duct  leading  air 
from  well  to  curing  room,  C;  D,  ventilator. 


120 


•  X    AND   (  )l'l-:i<.\riON'. 


12.1 


tiles  were,  however,  somewhat  small  in  diameter,  aiiil  bv  fric- 
tion hindered  the  passage  of  air  on  still  days  when  most  needed. 
Professor  King  recommends  not  less  than  three  ten-inch 
tiles  one  hundred  feet  long  for  a  curing  room  of  .j.OUU  cubic 
feet  of  space.  Longer  tubes  and  more  of  them  twelve  feet  down 
woidd  be  better. 

•2Ui.     WATER    MOTOil     KWS    KOIl    DKIVIM;    AlU. 

The  weak  point  in  the  sub-earth  duct  is  that  there  ma\-  be 
several  days  of  hot  weather  with  little  wind  when  the  cowl  will 
not   work.      .\t  such   a   time  a   water  motor  dri\-en    fan   will   cir- 


Eightcen-iiicli   cowl    lo   aiib-ci.nli    iliici    at    K.    11.    lUirick-,    iav;i..i>.    \\  cllini^ton.    C). 
The  duct  runs  clown  a  hill  ami  the-  factory  is  seen  nt   the   foot  of  the  liill. 

culate  the  air.  The  Triuini)h  Dairy  Co,  Triumph.  Trumbull 
County,  (  )hio.  h;is  such  a  contrivance.  .V  five-l)arrel  lank  of 
water  on  lop  ot  [he  building  will  run  the  fan  iiKist  of  ihe  night. 
The  tank  is  filled  with  water  by  a  steam  pump. 

2»7.     IIOII.KK    HOOM. 

The  lioiler  room  should  have  a  cement  floor  laid  iju  the 
ground,  and  it  should  be  lineil  with  corrugated  sheet  iron,  to 
insure  airaiust  tire. 


122  CniiESE  Making. 

:24S.   oi°irDi>«  sHori.D  nii:  raised. 

The  rest  of  the  building  should  be  raised  about  a  foot 
above  the  ground,  so  that  air  may  circulate  beneath  and  keep 
the  sills  from  rotting. 

24!>.     WATEK   SIJI'PI^Y, 

A  good  well  is  an  absolute  necessity  for  a  cheese  factory. 
Water  can  be  pumped  into  a  galvanized  iron  cistern  placed 
above  the  curing  room.  This  cistern  should  be  set  in  a  drip 
pan.  which  will  catch  anv  leak  or  sweat  from  it.  and  carry  it 
outside  without  leaking  through  into  the  curing  rcjom. 

y.'JO.     HOT    WATEU. 

I'^roni  the  cistern,  water  may  be  carried  in  pipes  to  the 
<lifferent  parts  of  the  building,  ddie  water  pipes  should  be 
galvanized  to  prevent  rusting.  There  can  be  a  steam  pipe  run- 
ning into  the  water  pipe  by  a  T,  and  the  flowing  water  can  be 
heated  by  turning  steam  into  it. 

2.'l.     SEPTIC    TAMv. 

Much  difficulty  has  been  experienced  in  getting  rid  of  the 
sewage  around  cheese  and  butter  factories.  The  blind  well  has 
been  a  source  of  contamination  for  the  water  supply  and  pollu- 
tion of  streams  has  been  the  occasion  for  law  suits  and  neigh- 
borhood quarrels. 

The  septic  tank  offers  a  simple,  cheap  and  efficient  means 
of  sewage  disposal.  It  has  been  presented  in  a  number  of  dairy 
papers. 

It  is  two  feet  deep  and  above  ground,  though  it  may  be 
covered  with  earth.  The  factory  must  therefore  be  built  high 
enough  to  empty  the  drains  into  the  top  of  the  tank.  The 
system  of  tiles  into  which  the  tank  empties  should  not  be  over 
one  foot  bellow  the  surface  and  slmuld  ])v  ])erfectly  U-vel. 

352.     SEWEK     IK  A  I* 

At  the  mouth  of  the  factory  drain  there  should  be  a  sewer 
trap,  which  is  simply   an    U)    shaped  pipe,  in   which   water  con- 
stantly  stands  and  keeps  gas  from  coming  up  from  the  sei)tic 
tank. 
2r.:{.    wiiEV  TAMv,  now  iicii.t. 

The  whev  tank  should  be  lined  with  galvanized  irou,  and 
be  place<l  liigh  enough  for  a  wagon  to  drive  under,  and  draw 
off  the   whey  by  simply   opening  a   valve.     The   ground   ought 


Construction  and  Operation. 


123 


to  be  paved  in  such  a  way  that  the  drip  will  run  off  into  the 
sewer.  A  skim  milk  weig-her  will  facilitate  an  equal  division 
of  the  whey. 


b>>SNNiIl]]lIIIK^XX^^ 


GI/9ZFO     T/LFS 


.^c' Oo    fi^ 


I'LAN  FOR  A  SEPTIC  TANK. 
(As  shown  in  Hoard's  Dairyman,  January  1,  1904.) 

This  is  a  cement  tank  8  feet' long,  4  feet  wide  and  21/2  feet  deep,  with  a  partition 
reaching  nearly  to  the  top  and  dividing  it  into  two  sections.  The  top  has  two  man- 
holes G  opening  into  the  sections.  The  sewage  enters  Section  1  through  pipe  E,  into 
part  A,  which  is  separated  from  part  B  by  a  plank  partition  having  1-inch  spaces 
between  the  planks,  to  keep  solid  matter  in  part  A.  Solid  matter  collects  on  the  top 
by  formation  of  gas.  The  liquids  flow  from  the  bottom  through  pipe  F  into  Section  2. 
When  this  fills  the  trap  valve  is  sprung  and  lets  the  liquid  run  out  into  the  under- 
ground system  of  tiles.  The  tiles  should  not  be  more  than  a  foot  below  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  and  should  be  level.  Their  volume  should  be  a  little  more  than  the 
volume  of  the  section  of  the  tank  emptied  into  the  tile.  While  the  tank  is  filling 
again,  the*  liquid  soaks  into  the  soil  and  bacteria  near  the  surface  decompose  the 
organic   matter. 

Prof.  John  Michels  of  Michigan  has  experimented  with  septic  tanks  and  finds 
the  tanks,  without  the  tiles,  to  be  sufficient  to  decompose  creamery  slops. 


254.    ELEVATING   WHEY. 

To  g-et  the  whey  from  the  vat  into  the  whey  tank,  it  can 
be  drawn  into  a  box  or  barrel,  and  from  there  forced  by  a 
steam  jet  into  the  whey  tank.  The  whey  should  be  scalded  to 
keep  it  sweet,  and  after  the  patrons  have  gone  every  morning, 
the  tank  should  be  scrubbed  out  and  steam  turned  into  it  to 


124  Cheese  Making. 

scald  it  out.     There  should  be  a  platform  around  the  tank  and 
steps  leading  up,  so  that  a  person  can  get  into  it  easily. 

»55.     BATH   ROOM. 

One  thing  that  a  factory  should  have,  though  generally 
unthought  of,  is  a  bath  room.  This  can  l^e  placed  above  the 
curing  room.  A  room,  five  by  eight  feet,  can  have  a  floor 
covered  with  galvanized  iron,  to  catch  any  drip  or  slop,  and  a 
bath  tub  put  in.  Hot  and  cold  water  can  be  connected  with  it, 
and  a  most  desirable  thing  supplied. 

256.  EQUIPMENT. 

For  a  factory  of  the  capacity  we  are  building,  an  eight- 
horse  power  boiler  will  be  required.  A  horizontal  brick  arch 
boiler  is  preferable  to  a  vertical  one,  as  it  will  hold  the  heat 
better,  and  a  person  can  more  easily  clean  the  flues. 

There  should  be  a  good  steam  pump,  and  possibly  an 
engine,  though  that  is  not  absolutely  necessary.  For  ten  thou- 
sand pounds  of  milk  two  vats  of  a  capacity  of  5,200  pounds 
will  be  needed ;  these  ought  to  be  provided  with  whey  gates  for 
emptying  them. 

257.  WATER  BOXES   OP   VATS    SHOULD    BE    LINED. 

It  is  quite  essential  also  to  have  the  water  boxes  of  the 
vats  lined  with  galvanized  iron,  or  they  will  leak,  making  a  bad 
muss  on  the  floor. 

258.  CURD   SINK. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  a  curd  sink  is  a  necessary  piece 
of  apparatus  in  getting  the  curd  drained  properly ;  we  must, 
therefore,  have  a  curd  sink  constructed  in  the  way  suggested. 

For  the  curd  from  10,000  pounds  of  milk,  two  gang  presses, 
and  either  twenty  Cheddar  or  forty  flat  hoops  will  be  required. 

259.  PRESSING    PLATS. 

One  should  not  attempt,  as  is  quite  commonly  done,  to 
press  two  flats  in  a  Cheddar  hoop  by  putting  a  divider  between. 
Artistic  looking  cheese  cannot  be  made  in  that  way. 

Flat  hoops  do  not  cost  nearly  as  much  as  they  did  a  few 
years  ago,  and  the  expense  will  be  but  slightly  increased  in 
providing  the  necessary  number  of  hoops. 

260.  SINK,  HOW   MADE. 

Another  necessary  thing,  which  is  seldom  found  in  a  fac- 
tory is  a  good  sink.  It  should  be  iron  or  galvanized  iron  lined, 
and  plenty  large  enough — say  three  feet  long,  by  twenty  inches 


Construction  and  Operation. 


125 


wide,  by  twelve  inches  deep,  properly  connected  with  the  sewer. 
At  the  end  of  the  sink  should  be  a  wide  shelf  or  table  inclined 
toward  the  sink,  so  that  drippings  will  run  off  into  the  sink. 
This  shelf  is  used  to  drain  tinware  on,  and  a  steam  jet  pro- 
jecting through  it,  can  be  used  to  sterilize  utensils. 

We  need  hot  and  cold  water  connections  at  the  sink,  and 
perhaps  a  hot  water  barrel  beside  it.  This  barrel  may  be  made 
of  galvanized  iron,  and  should  be  used  for  a  supply  of  clean, 
hot  water,'  rather  than  a  place  to  wash  dirty  tools.  This  latter 
operation  ought  to  be  performed  in  the  sink. 


261.     MILK,    HOW    LIFTED. 


If  the  roadway  is  not  high  enough  to  empty  the  milk 
directly  into  the  weigh  can,  a  large  wheel  fixed  tight  on  an  axle 
is  probably  the  best  appliance  for  lifting  the  milk.  An  endless 
rope  runs  over  the  wheel,  and  by  pulling  this  rope  the  wheel 
turns  and  winds  up  another  rope  on  the  axle.  This  rope  has 
tongs  on  it,  which  take  hold  of  the  milk  can. 


136  Cheese  Making. 

The  weigh  can  is  placed  on  an  800-pound  double  beam 
scale,  which  stands  in  a  receiving  room  or  covered  platform. 
This  vplatform  is  built  out  on  brackets  in  front  of  the  factory. 
On  one  side  of'  the  room  is  a  shelf  for  the  milk  book,  and 
another  for  the  sample  jars.  The  milk  is  run  from  the  weigh 
can  to  the  vat,  through  an  open  tin  conductor. 

263.    MILK   TESTING. 

For  testing  the  milk,  we  should  have  a  thirty-bottle,  steam 
turbine,  Babcock  test,  and  a  Ouevenne  lactometer.  The  Que- 
venne  lactometer  gives  a  direct  reading  of  the  specific  gravity, 
and  is  used  in  connection  with  the  Babcock  fat  test  for  detection 
of  watered  milk. 


Ik  Conductor  Head,  for  running  milk  from  weigh  can  to  vat. 


263.  APPLIANCES   NEEDED. 

We  will  name  over  some  of  the  minor  articles  needed  in 
the  factory,  for  some  'of  them  are  usually  found  lacking,  and 
sometimes  there  are  not  enough  of  the  articles  to  enable  one 
to  work  handily. 

There  ought  to  be  two  curd  knives — horizontal  and  perpen- 
dicular— and  they  should  be  six  or  eight  inches  wide  and  twenty 
inches  long. 

A  rennet  test  will  be  required,  and  two  or  three  reliable 
thermometers,  for  these  are  easily  broken,  and  we  must  not  run 
the  risk  of  being  without  one. 

■There  will  also  be  needed  a  hair  sieve,  linen  strainer  cloth, 
wash  dish,  two  curd  pails,  three  or  four  twelve-quart  tin  pails, 
several  dippers,  one  of  which  has  a  flat  side,  and  a  perforated 
tin  bottofn,  for  skimming  specks  off  from  the  milk. 

264.  CURING  SHELVES. 

The  shelves  in  the  curing  room  are  supported  by  cross- 
pieces,  attached  to  wooden  posts.  These  posts  are  4x4s,  reach- 
ing from  floor  to  ceiling.     The  cross  pieces  are  2x4s,  set  into 


Construction  and  Operation.  127 

the  4x4,  to  keep  them  from  tilting,  and  a  bolt  put  through  to 
hold  them  in  place.  The  shelves  are  sixteen-foot  boards;  six- 
teen inches  wide,  and  one  and  a  half  inches  thick.  -They  should 
be  the  clearest  pine  lumber  obtainable. 

The  shelving  can  run  crosswise  of  the  room,  and  if  the 
boards  are  sixteen  feet  long,  there  will  be  a  four-foot  passage 
on  the  side  of  the  room  next  to  the  making  room.  At  the 
further  end  of  the  room  from  the  door  to  the  making  room,  ten 
feet  of  space  can  be  left  for  boxing  cheese. 

265.     COST    OF    FACTORY. 

The  factory  we  have  suggested  will  cost  more  than  the 
ordinary  run  of  factories,  for  it  is  much  better.  Nothing  that 
will  be  a  wa.ste  of  money  has  been  suggested.  Certain  firms 
put  up  factories  which  are  inferior  to  this,  for  which  they  get 
a  third  more  money  than  this  would  cost. 

As  the  cost  of  material  in  different  localities  varies  so 
much,  we  have  not  set  a  price  on  this  factory,  but  the  necessary 
facts  are  given,  so  that  anyone  can  figure  on  the  cost  of  the 
building  for  his  own  locality,  and  then  reliable  firms  will  furnish 
machinery  at  reasonable  prices. 

QUESTIONS    ON    CHAPTER    XII. 

1.  What  is  the  necessity  of  good  foundations  for  a  factory? 
2.  How  should  the  curing  room  wall  be  constructed?  3.  Why 
are  double  windows  needed  in  the  curing  room?  4.  How  should 
the  curing  room  door  be  built?  5.  What  is  the  advantage  of 
a  curing  room  in  a  cellar?  6.  How  may  such  a.  room  be  ven- 
tilated? 7.  What  is  the  principle  on  which  a  sub-earth  duct 
works?  8.  How  many  and  how  large  tiles  should  be  used? 
9.  How  deep  should  the  tiles  be  placed  in  the  ground?  10. 
How  long  should  a  duct  be?  11.  How  may  air  be  forced 
through  the  duct?  12.  How  large  should  the  cowl  be  a.nd  how 
high  should  it  be  placed?  13.  How  can  a  well  be  utilized  as  a 
duct?  14.  How  can  hot  water  be  secured?  15.  Why  should 
the  water  pipes  be  galvanized?  16.  What  can  be  said  of  good 
sewer    connections?     17.  What    is    a    septic    tank?     18.  How 


128  Cheese  Making. 

should  the  whey  tank  be  constructed?  19.  How  should  the 
whey  be  drawn  off?  20.  How  can  the  whey  be  elevated?  21, 
Why  should  the  water  tanks  to  the  vats  be  lined?  22.  How 
should  the  curd  sink  be  constructed?  23.  Why  should  flats 
not  be  pressed  in  Cheddar  hoops?  24.  How  should  a  wash 
sink  be  made?  25.  How  should  the  curing  shelves  be  con- 
structed ? 


Chapter  XIII. 

ORGANIZATION    OF    CHEESE    FACTORY 
ASSOCIATION. 


266.     PLANS    OF   OPERATION. 

Cheese  factories  are  operated  on  two  plans,  namely,  the 
private  and  stock  company  systems.  In  the  first  named  plan 
the  factory  is  owned  by  an  individual  who  furnishes  everything 
in  the  manufacture,  and  receives  a  certain  price  per  pound  fur 
such  manufacture,  the  milk  and  the  cheese  being  all  the  time 
considered  the  property  of  the  patrons.  The  patrons  then  have 
some  form  of  organization  for  the  purpose  of  selling  the  cheese 
and  dividing  the  money,  and  looking  after  their  interests 
generally. 

Under  the  other  system  the  farmers'  organization  goes 
further  and  owns  the  factory,  and  the  officers  do  all  business 
and  hire  a  cheese  maker  to  manufacture  the  cheese.  Co-opera- 
tive associations  are  usually  not  successful  unless  a  business 
manager  is  given  full  authority  to  manage  the  business. 

The  following  by-laws  will  give  a  general  idea  of  how  to 
organize  such  an  association : 

367.     BY-LAAVS   FOR   A  CHEESE   FACTORY   ASSOCIATION. 

Article  I.     Name— This  Association  shall  be  known  as  the 

Cheese Company. 

Article  II.  Capital  Stock— The  capital  stock  of  the  Association 
shall  be  $4,000,  divided  into. two  hundred  shares  of  twenty  dollars  each. 

Article  III.  Officers— The  officers  shall  be  a  president  who  shall 
have  general  oversight  of  the  business  of  the  Association  and  prosecute 
any  case  at  law  that  may  arise.  A  treasurer  shall  receive  and  disburse 
all  money  and  keep  a  proper  set  of  books  which  shall  be  open  to  in- 
spection of  any  member  of  the  Association  at  any  time.     He  shall  be 

the  salesman  for  the  Association.     He  shall  receive  $ per  annum  for 

his  services.  There  shall  be  a  secretary  who  shall  figure  all  milk  divi- 
dends.    He  shall  be  Chairman  of  the  Test  Committee. 

Article  IV.  There  shall  be  semi-annual  meetings  of  the  Associa- 
tion on  the  first  Tuesday  in  March  and  October,  three  days'  notice  of 
the  time  and  place  of  meeting  to  be   given  by  the  president.     Special 

129 


I'M)  Cheese  Making. 

meetings  may  be  called  by  the  president,  three  days'  notice  of  the  time 
and  place  to  be  given,  and  upon  the  written  request  of  ten  members  of  the 
Association  the  president  shall  call  such  a  meeting. 

Article  V.  The  division  of  money  for  cheese  sold  shall  be  deter- 
mined by  the  fat  test  of  the  milk,  after  expense  of  making  has  been 
deducted.  The  remaining  amount  of  money  shall  be  divided  by  the 
number  of  pounds  of  butter  fat  delivered  during  the  time  said  cheese  was 
made,  to  determine  the  price  per  pound  of  butter  fat,  and  each  patron 
shall  receive  that  price  per  pound  for  the  butter  fat  delivered  by  him 
during  that  time. 

Article  VI.  Test  Committee — There  shall  be  a  test  committee  of 
three  members  beside  the  secretary  who  shall  assist  the  cheese  maker  in 
testing  the  milk. 

Article  VII.  The  price  for  making  cheese  shall  be  one  and  a  half 
cents  per  pound. 

Article  VIII.  The  cheese  maker  may  reject  any  milk  that  in  his 
judgment  will  not  make  first-class  cheese. 

Article  IX.  No  milk  will  be  received  at  this  factory  that  has  not 
been  properly  strained  and  aerated. 

Article  X.  These  by-laws  may  be  altered  at  any  legal  meeting  by 
a  two-thirds  vote  of  the  members  present,  providing  there  are  at  least 
ten  members  present  at  such  meeting. 

The  above  by-laws  can,  of  course,  be  changed  to  suit  any 
particular  Jocality  or  conditions.     The  amount  of  capital  stock 
may  be  altered,  or  such  articles  changed  to  make  them  suit  a 
private  factory. 
2GS.   tejT  committee:. 

Article  VI,  which  organizes  a  test  committee,  is  for  the 
purpose  of  preventing  dissensions.  We  quite  often  hear  it 
stated  that  the  maker  reads  the  tests  low  to  get  a  larger  yield, 
or  that  he  favors  one  patron  more  than  another.  Such  state- 
ments may  be  founded  on  facts,  but  are  generally  the  results  of 
suspicions.  Now  if  the  patrons  have  a  committee  of  their 
number  to  see  the  tests  made,  such  a  committee  cannot  fail  to 
secure  justice. 

209.     Q,UORDM. 

The  matter  of  the  number  that  shall  constitute  a  quorum 
has  been  purposely  left  out,  for  in  such  an  association  it  is  not 
very  important,  and  might  hinder  in  the  business  of  some  meet- 
ings. The  article  on  the  revision  of  the  by-laws  contains  a 
clause  that  practically  names  a  quorum  in  such  a  case. 

270.    RATES   FOR   MAKING. 

In  some  Canadian  stock  companies  there  are  two  rates 
charged   for  making  the   cheese,   a    stockholders'   rate   and   a 


Organization  of  Cheese  Factory  Association.      131 

patrons'  rate,  which  is  higher  than  the  former.  The  patron  is 
not  entitled  to  whey.  It  belongs  to  the  corporation,  to  be 
fed  to  hogs  owned  by  the  association,  or  disposed  of  as  the 
stockholders  see  fit.  Each  share  of  milk  entitles  the  owner  to 
have  fifteen  thousand  pounds  of  milk  made  up  at  stockholders' 
rates,  and  after  that  he  must  either  get  another  share  of  the 
stock  or  pay  patrons'  rate  for  all  milk  made  up  above  that 
amount.  The  object  of  this  rule  is  to  make  each  patron  take  a 
financial  interest  in  the  factory. 

271.     FIGURING   DIVIDENDS. 

Perhaps  this  is  the  proper  place  to  speak  of  figuring  divi- 
dends. As  is  indicated  in  one  of  the  by-laws  the  price  per 
pound  of  butter  fat  should  be  found,  and  each  patron  paid  for 
the  pounds  of  fat  delivered  by  him. 

Cheese  may  be  sold  each  week,  but  the  dividends  are  made 
for  the  month. 

The  composite  samples  of  milk  are  saved  as  described 
under  the  head  of  milk  testing,  and  tested  once  a  week.  The 
pounds  of  milk  delivered  by  the  patron  multiplied  by  the  per 
cent  of  fat,  gives  the  pounds  of  fat  delivered  by  him.  The 
amount  of  money  left  after  paying  all  expenses  is  then  divided 
by  the  total  pounds  of  fat  for  the  month  to  get  the  price  per 
pound  of  fat.  And  then  the  number  of  pounds  of  fat  delivered 
by  each  patron,  multiplied  by  the  price  per  pound,  gives  the 
amount  due  him.  Theoretically  the  pounds  of  milk  delivered 
each  week  should  be  multiplied  by  the  weekly  test,  but  the  tests 
from  week  to  week  if  averaged  together  for  the  month,  and  then 
the  monthly  milk  multiplied,  will  give  very  close  to  the  amount 
found  if  each  week's  fat  were  found  and  added  together  for  the 
month,  and  a  large  amount  of  labor  is  saved. 

If  there  is  a  small  surplus  or  shortage  of  money  in  figuring, 
it  can  be  added  to  or  subtracted  from  the  next  month's  money 
before  determining  the  price  per  pound. 

For  an  example  of  dividing  money  suppose  there  are  three 
patrons,  and  during  the  month  they  delivered  milk  as  follows : 

A 3,000  tbs.  milk  testinR  4.0     %=120  fts.  fat 

B 2,200  fts.  milk  testing  3.5     %=  77  lbs.  fat 

C 1,000  tbs.  milk  testing  4.5  •  %=  45  lbs.  fat 

Total  for  month 6,200  tbs.  milk  testing  3.90  %=:242  tbs.  fat 


132  Cheese  Making. 

By  dividing  the  pounds  of  fat  by  the  pounds  of  milk  for  the 
month,  and  multiplying  by  100  we  get  the  average  test  of  all 
the  milk  for  the  month.  It  is  not  needed  in  the  figuring  of  the 
dividends,  but  it  is  interesting  to  know  what  the  average  test  is. 

Suppose  the  cheese  made  from  the  milk  was  620  pounds 
and  sold  at  10  cents  per  pound.  We  then  have  $62.00.  The 
cost  of  making  was  $9.30,  and  we  have  left  $52.70  to  be  divided 
among  the  patrons.  By  dividing  this  amount  by  the  242  pounds 
of  fat  we  get  21.777  cents  per  pound.     Then 

A  has  120  tbs.  fat  @  21.777  cts.=: $26.13240 

B  has    70  tbs.  fat  @  21.777  cts.= 16.76829 

C  has    45  fts.  fat  @  21.777  cts.= 9.79965 

Total   $52.70034 

We  had  $52.70  to  be  divided.  One  should  always  prove  his 
figures  to  be  sure  they  are  correct. 

372.     FACTORY    STATEMENT. 

A  statement  containing  all  necessary  items  should  be  given 
each  patron  so  that  he  can  figure  the  dividend  himself.  There 
should  be  a  printed  form  for  this.     The  following  may  be  used : 

MUSCODA    CHEESE   ASSOCIATION    FACTORY. 

Statement  for   •  • 

Month  of 19 

Sales  include  following  dates to 

No    pounds  of  cheese  sold fts. 

Amount  of  money  received $ 

Average  price  per  pound cts. 

No.  pounds  of  milk  delivered 

No   pounds  of  fat  delivered 

Average  test   

Expenses   

Money  to  be  divided 

Which  leaves cts.  per  pound  of  fat 

No.  pounds  of  milk  delivered  by  you 

Your  average  test 

Pounds  of  fat  delivered  by  you -. 

At cents  per  pound $ 

Dr.  by pounds  of  cheese  at cts.  per  pound 

Money  due  you -- 

No.  pounds  of  fat  required  for  1  pound  cheese 

No.  pounds  of  cheese  from  100  pounds  milk 

Sec. 


Organ iZATicjx  of  CiiiiKsii  Factor v  Ass(jciatio\. 


133 


QUESTIONS  ON   CMAl'TKk    XIII. 

1.  \\  lial  arc  llie  two  general  plans  on  which  a  factory  may- 
be operated?  'L  Why  are  co-operative  companies  usually  not 
successful?  3.  Describe  how  dividends  are  figured.  4.  Why 
should  a  statement  be  made  to  each  patron  when  a  dividend  is 
declared?  5.  What  are  the  important  points  in  such  a  state- 
ment? 


Swiss   Cheese   Factory   ai    AxM, 


Chapter  XIV. 
SWISS  CHEESE     ITS  CHARACTERISTICS. 


:I7;5.     SWKKT    <l  III)    i.llKICSK. 

It  will  be  rcmeniberocl  that  ClioiMar  cheese  was  first  made 
in  England  and  was  introduced  into  America  by  the  emigrants 
from  England,  in  like  manner  the  manufacture  of  a  number  of 
other  styles  of  cheese  has  been  introduced.  These  styles  are 
w'hat  are  generally  termed  sweet  curd.  The  Cheddar  is  made 
from  ripened  milk  and  a  certain  amount  of  acid  is  develoi)eil 
in  the  whey.  \\  ith  the  sweet  curd  varieties,  however,  the  milk 
must  be  "sweet,"  the  milk  being  curdled  and  cooked  up  as 
rapidly  as  possible  and  then  put  into  the  moulds  before  salting. 
The  salt  is  nearly  all  appjied  to  the  outside  of  the  cheese  by 
means  of  dry  salt  rubbed  on  the  surface  or  by  soaking  the 
cheese  in  a  strong  brine. 

Among  these  cheese  are  "Swiss,"  of  the  round  and  block 
varieties,  brick  and  Limburger.  .^wiss  cheese  has  been  made 
in  this  country  quite  as  long  as  has  the  Cheddar  and  with  llie 
brick  and  Limburger,  will  soon  be.  if  it  is  not  already,  entitled  to 
the  name  ".American." 
271.    s\\  rry.KK,  ^vinoitio  >i ade. 

.\merican  Swiss,  ov  "Switzer."  as  it  is  called,  is  made  to  the 
greatest  extent  in  this  country  in  Green  and  Dodge  counties, 
Wisconsin ;  in  Wayne,  .^tark.  Sunnnit.  Columbiana  and  Tus- 
carawas counties.  </)hi(>;  and  in  Xew  ^'ork  State.  The  makers 
are  mostly  natives  of  Sw-itzerland.  who  have  emigrated  to  this 
country  and  brought  their  methods  of  making  with  them.  These 
methods  can  probably  be  improved  upnn  in  a  number  nt  wass 
as  will  be  indicated. 
•2-r,.    ni'.si  itii"ri(»\  <»r  s\>  ir/.ioit  ciieksk. 

Swiss  chee-e  i-  known  in  the  old  count i-y  b\  the  name  of 
Emmenthaler.  Its  origin  is  not  definitely  known,  but  it  has 
been  made  in  the  cant(Mi  of  Bern  since  in  the  rdieenth  century. 
Tn  this  couiUry  it  is  made  in  two  forms,  the  round  or  drum 
Swiss,  a.id  the'bl.K-k  Swiss. 

134 


A   typical   bwisi 
(if   it   shows   its 


checs 
size. 


,inK  characteristic   holes   ur   "cycb. 
■en<-ct   the   light,   showing    that    the 


._J& 

Wi 

W^^'                       '  •.  •        11, 

t:" 

'*   '^1~          ■    1 

-^ 

-    ^                  "^       """"k                      1 

fci.'  r  _"' 

yR?r^^ '"    -                   V  A"^''-.  -.  ^.vf 

i^ 

H 

£i"ii-.:  -^  -'-■'. 

u 

A  .11-  iliroim-h  a  Swiss  cheese  of  secon.l 
roim.l,  hut  has  a  dull  surface.  The  h.iles  near 
of  a  "niszler."  The  cracks  near  the  nunibci 
King  along  the  side  shows  the  relative  sizes  < 


•  luality.     The 

hole    next    to    ni 

niber 

1    is 

the  nuniher  I 

arc  small  and 

are  ty 

)ical 

3    are    tyi>ica 

of    a    glaesk-r. 

The 

rule 

f  the  holes. 

135 


13(;  CiiKKSK  Makixg. 

The  (Iruiii  Swiss  is  pressed  in  large  round  cakes,  twenty- 
four  to  possibly  thirty-six  inches  in  diameter,  and  four  to  six 
inches  in  thickness.  Such  a  cheese  will  weigh,  on  the  average, 
about  ISO  pounds.  The  block  Swiss  is  six  inches  square  by 
twenty  inches  long,  and  weighs  twenty-five  to  thirty  potinds. 
The  illustration  shows  a  drum  Swiss  cheese  cut  open.  ( )n  top 
is  laid  a  square  which  indicates  the  size  of  it.  The  illustration 
of  two  block  Swiss  on  page  l-"5".i  will  gi\'e  an  idea  of  their  pro- 
portions. 

27<i.     OE^TIOUMI.M.Vf;    UlAMTV    OK    CHIOESE. 

In  order  to  intelligently  discuss  the  manufacture  of  the 
cheese,  we  should  know  what  is  re(|uired  in  a  Swiss  cheese  to 
make  it  of  the  best  quality. 

i:t7.    flavor. 

First  as  to  flavor.  We  will  sa\-  that  flavor  is  a  hard  matter 
to  describe,  the  same  as  the  fiavor  of  a  Cheddar  cheese  is  hard 
to  express  in  words.  It  can  be  said,  however,  that  the  Swiss 
cheese  has  a  slightly  salty  taste  peculiar  to  itself,  a  tastfe  that 
is  very  pleasing.  A  cheese  that  is  ijitter  to  the  taste  is  to  be 
condemned. 

:i7S.      I'lOVTl  KIO. 

.\  good  Swiss  chet'se  .-hould  have  the  right  dough,  that  is. 
it  should  not  stick  to  the  fingers,  nor,  on  the  otlicr  h.and,  be  too 
dry.  but  should  mould  in  the  fingers  like  wax.  or  as  the  term 
indicates,  like  dough.  It  >honld  .also  have  plenty  of  eyes  or 
holes  about  a  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  evenly  distributed  through 
the  cheese,  as  is  seen  in  the  illustration.  These  holes  should 
have  a  glossy  surface,  which  is  again  an  indication  that  the 
dough  is  right.  If  it  is  loo  soft,  these  holes  will  have  a  dull 
sin"face.  In  an  old  cheese  ;i  drop  of  brine  ma\-  be  foiuid  in  the 
hole. 

a7!».    < oi.oit. 

Till'  color  should  be  white.  The  nati\e  Swiss  cheese  is  very 
light  colorecl,  pro])ably  on  acc(.unt  of  the  feed  tli;it  the  cows 
get,  the  character  of  the  fat  gi\eii  b\  the  native  cows  (we  know- 
that  (  iuernsey  milk  is  exceptional]}  yellow,  while  llolstein  milk 
is  light  coloreili.  .-nid  by  the  length  ol  linie  that  a  cheese  has 
cured.  Clu'cse  that  are  (|uile  \ellow-  will  turn  white  with  more 
age    and    cannot    be    dislinguishiMl    from    the    native   aiiicle,   ami 


Swiss  Ciieksi-— Its   Ciiakac 


137 


except  for  the  name  ••imported"  are  just  as  fine.  One  reason 
why  foreign  cheese  meets  with  so  much  favor  in  this  country 
is  that  it  does  not  reach  the  consumer  till  it  is  thoroughly  cured, 
and  if  the  American  cheese  of  the  various  kinds  be  allowed  to  get 
thorouohlv  cured  it  will  meet  with  the  same  favor. 


A  series  of  plugs  from  Swiss  cheese  of  difTcie.U  quality.  Nos.  1,  2,  :!  would  be 
classed  as  No.  1  cheese,  though  2  has  rather  too  many  holes.  Nos.  4  and  5  show  the 
cracks  of  a  glaeslcr  and  the  corresponding  pasty  appearance.  No.  6  at  the  upper  end 
indicates  a  niszler,  though  a  typical  niszler  would  have  the  small  holes  the  entire 
length  of  the  plug.  No.  7  is  what  would  be  termed  a  blind  cheese  as  there  are  no 
"eyes"    or   holes. 

•jiso.   <iu  vmos  OF  ciiroicsK. 

There  arc,  however,  poorer  grades  of  this  Swiss  cheese  that 
are  not  represented  by  our  illustration,  for  that  cheese  is  an  ideal 
one.  a  typical  article.  Cheese  are  really  put  into  three  grades. 
No.  1.  Xo.  2  and  Xo.  •'«.  Cheese  like  the  one  shown  on  page  129 
with  ilie  ri-lu  dough  and  flavor,  and  the  right  kind  and  distri- 
buii..n  oi  iioles  is  classed  as  No.  1  cheese.  Cheese  without  eyes 
or  holes  is  termed  blind  and  classed  as  No.  2.  A  cheese  with 
little  gas  holes  (called  pin-holes  in  Cheddar  cheese)  is  termed  a 
niszler,  meaning  "a  thousand  eyes."  One  that  is  pasty  and  will 
stick  {n  the  fingers  usually  has  few  round  holes,  and  if  it  does 
li.-.ve  them  thev  are  not  glossy  on  the  surface.     Such  a  cheese  is 


].'{8  C'mchsi-:  Maki.nc. 

likely  to  have  checks  (jr  craclcs,  runiiiiiij;-  usually  iu  a  horizontal 
direction,  throui^h  it.  These  cracks  are  supposed  to  resemble 
the  fracture  of  a  piece  of  glass  and  lunce'the  cheese  is  called  a 
glaesler.  The  illustration  (^n  page  135  shows  a  cut  through  a 
piece  of  cheese  whicli  presents  three  different  kinds  of  holes 
designated  by  the  numbers  on  the  surface.  Xo.  I  shows  a  round 
hole,  but  on  close  inspection  it  will  be  seen  that  the  surface  is 
not  glossy  as  is  the  case  with  the  holes  in  the  typical  cheese 
shown  on  page  13.').  Xo.  >  shows  smaller  IkjIcs  as  found  in  a 
niszler.  .\  niszler  ma\  have  the  small  holes  all  through  it  or  in 
local  portions  of  it.  X<i.  :)  shows  a  characteristic  crack  of  a 
glaesler.  The  pocket  rule  hung  on  the  cluH-se  indic:ites  the  size 
of  the  holes. 

a.Sl.     HOW     (iilOK.SIO    IS    TltlKI). 

When  a  buyer  goes  into  a  factory  to  buy  cheese  he  cannot, 
of  course,  cut  any  of  the  cheese  open,  as  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tions. He  sees  the  inside  of  it  by  drawing  a  plug  with  a  cheese 
trier,  as  is  done  in  buying  Cheddar  cheese.  The  picture  on  page 
137  is  a  photograph  of  typical  plugs  of  Swiss  clieese.  I'lugs  1. 
2  and  o  have  the  pr(jper  kind  of  holes,  though  .Xo.  •-'  has  rather 
too  many  to  be  classed  as  Xo.  1  cheese.  Again,  the  holes  in 
No.  n  or  at  least  one  hole,  was  too  large,  for  it  cut  the  ])lug  en- 
tirely off.  It  would.  iKnvever,  probably  pass  for  .Xo.  1.  IMugs 
■I  and  •')  have  the  cracks  of  a  glaesler,  and  the  utile  particles  of 
curd  rougheil  up  show  it  to  be  ])asiy.  I'lng  Xo.  fl  shows  a 
niszK'r  at  the  upper  en<!,  while  plug  No.  7  is  blind. 

Xow  to  review  the  classes  of  Swiss  cheese,  the  retpiirements 
for  Xo.   1  are  that  : 

I.   The  llavor  shall  be  go..d. 

■L  Till'  texture  shall  have  the  right  dou^h,  i.  e.,  it  must  not 
be  too  (h"\-.  neither  stick'  to  the  tinger>,  l)ut  mould  like  wax.  It 
shall  lia\-e  the  right  kind  of  (.'yes  evenly  dist  i-jbuted. 

:'..   The  color  should  be  light. 
For  No.  '!  cheese  would  be  inchnled  : 

1.   Cheese  of  a  second   rale  t1a\or. 

'2.   Cdaesler  or  blind  cheese. 

3.  Cheese  with  a  very  mieveu  or  ;il)norm;il  development  of 
eyes. 

4.  Niszlers. 


Block   Swiss  clieesc  as  it  ai)pcars  when  of  fine  quality. 


Block  Swiss  cheese  bulged  at   siiles  liuiii   tuu   ra|>iil   foriuati 
not   work  to   the  center  fast   ent.uRli. 


of  gas.     The  salt   did 


139 


140  CriEKsi-:  Makixg. 

No.  3  cheese  would  include : 

1.  Cheese  of  bad  flavor. 

2.  Cheese  damaged  by  rats  or  mice 

3.  Cheese  cracked  open. 

Cheese  damaged  b\-  rats  or  mice  or  cracked  are  vcr)  likely 
to  rot  at  such  points. 

The  buyer  in  the  presence  of  the  cheese  maker  determines 
the  grade  of  the  cheese,  and  marks  it  on  the  edge  with  his  trier 
by  gouging  out  I,  H  or  III  marks.  He  afterwards  brands  it 
with  a  hot  branding  iron,  the  brand  being  usually  his  initials. 
When  the  price  of  No.  1  is  9V2  cents,  the  price  of  No.  2  will 
likely  be  8  cents,  and  No.  3  will  sell  for  from  3  to  5  cents. 

Italians  like  glaeslers  better  than  cheese  with  the  eyes  in  it, 
and  will  often  pay  No.  1  price  for  the  glaesler  and  reject  a  No.  1 
cheese.  Some  makers  regularly  turn  out  cheese  of  No.  1  quality, 
while  others  have  considerable  difficulty  in  so  doing,  and  the 
difference  in  price  makes  a  very  large  difference  in  the  size  of 
the  maker's  pocketbook.  The  criticism  that  is  often  heard  re- 
garding our  Cheddar  cheese  is,  that  there  is  not  enough  distinc- 
tion made  in  price  between  good,  indifferent  and  bad  cheese. 
That  criticism  cannot  a|)ply  to  the  Swiss  cheese  markets  for  the 
judgment  in  buying  is  very  rigid. 

QUESTIONS   ON    CHAPTER   XFV. 

1.  \\'hat  arc  the  two  kinds  of  cheese  which  are  made  with 
reference  to  the  amount  oi  acid  developed?  2.  Under  what 
class  docs  Cheddar  fall?  3.  Under  what  class  does  Swiss  cheese 
fall?     4.  How  is  the  salt  usually  applied  to  sweet  curd  cheese? 

5.  \\"liere    is    American    Switzer    made    in    greatest    quantities? 

6.  By  what  name  does  Swiss  cheese  go  in  Switzerland?  7.  What 
are  the  two  kinds  of  Swiss  made  in  this  country?  8.  What  is  a 
good  flavor  in  a  Swiss  cheese?  !>.  W  hat  is  a  good  texture  in  a 
Swiss  cheese?  10.  What  is  meant  by  the  dough  of  a  Swiss 
cheese?  11.  What  is  meant  by  the  eyes  of  a  cheese?  1'3.  What 
should  l)c  the  size  oi  these  eyes,  how  should  tliey  appear  on  their 
surface  and  how  should  they  be  distributed?  13.  What  should 
be  the  color  of  a  .Swiss  cheese  and  what  conditions  intluenee  it? 
14.  What  are  the  three  grades  oi  cheese  and  what  conditions 
determine  the  grade  into  which  a  cheese  goes?  J."..  What  is  a 
niszler  cheese?      !•!.   What  is  a  glaesler  cheese?  v 


Chapter  XV. 

SWISS  CHEESE     FROM  MILK  TO  CURING 
CELLAR. 


282.  SELECTION    OF    THE    MILK. 

As  has  been  previously  explained,  Swiss  cheese  is  made 
from  sweet  milk.  So  important  does  this  seem  to  be  that  the 
milk  is  delivered  to  the  factory  twice  a  day  and  made  immedi- 
ately into  cheese.  It  is  believed  by  a  good  many  makers  that 
under  all  circumstances  the  rennet  should  be  gotten  into  the 
milk  just  as  soon  as  possible. 

283.  CAUSE   OF   GLAESLER   CHEESE. 

Exception  may,  however,  be  taken  to  the  opinion  that  all 
milk  for  Swiss  cheese  should  be  set  immediately  when  received 
at  the  factory,  for  as  may  have  been  observed  in  the  experiment 
with  rennet,  a  very  sweet  milk  does  not  curdle  rapidly  nor  is  the 
curd  as  firm  as  the  curd  from  riper  milk.  It  takes  a  certain 
amount  of  acid  (probably  about  .17  per  cent)  to  make  the  rennet 
expel  the  whey  properly.  With  too  sweet  milk,  such  as  is  ob- 
tained in  the  cool  weather  of  the  fall  months,  it  is  hard  to  get  a 
good  cook  on  the  curd  and  such  cheese  will  have  a  pasty  texture, 
and  a  pasty  texture  will  make  a  glaesler  cheese. 

284.  RENNET  TEST   SHOULD  BE  USED. 

The  milk  for  Swiss  cheese  should  not  be  as  ripe  as  for 
Cheddar  cheese,  but  the  rennet  test  should  be  used  to  determine 
the  condition  of  the  milk,  and  then  the  milk,  if  it  is  too  sweet, 
should  be  brought  to  this  point  each  day,  by  holding  or  by  the 
addition  of  a  small  starter.  One  of  our  students  reports  that 
with  the  Marschall  rennet  test  used  in  his  factory,  a  milk  that 
tests  five  or  six  will  be  sure  to  give  a  glaesler  cheese,  while  milk 
at  3%  will  not  do  so.  It  should  be  remembered  that  Marschall 
tests  vary  (89)  so  that  each  maker  will  necessarily  have  to  deter- 
mine at  what  point  by  his  particular  test  the  milk  should  be  set. 

285.  USE    OF    A   STARTER. 

Swiss  makers  very  largely  use  a  homemade  rennet,  which 
is  made  up  by  them  each  day  by  soaking  strips  of  rennet  in  whey. 
'l41 


142  Cheese  Making. 

It  is  even  claimed  that  commercial  rennet  extract  is  not  as  good 
as  the  whey  rennet,  for  they  cannot  obtain  the  eyes  with  it. 
The  explanation  for  this  probably  is^  that  the  whey  used  acts  as 
a  starter  which  supplies  the  necessary  acid  in  the  milk  to  make 
the  rennet  expel  the  whey  sufficiently.  At  the  same  time  gas 
germs  may  be  added  which  will  make  a  niszler  cheese  (280). 
Freudenreich  has  shown  that  the  lactic  acid  germ  is  desired  in 
making  good  Ementhaler.  By  using  a  commercial  rennet  ex- 
tract, after  adding  a  good  lactic  acid  starter,  a  cheese  with  a 
good  development  of  eyes  can  be  obtained.  As  this  is  being 
done  in  actual  practice  it  shows  that  the  idea,  prevalent  among 
Swiss  makers  to  the  extent  that  it  is  almost  a  law,  that  good 
eyes  cannot  be  obtained  with  commercial  rennet  extract,  is 
incorrect.  Of  course,  the  amount  of  starter  required  will  not  be 
as  much  as  for  Cheddar  cheese  (113). 

286.  TEST   OF   RENNET   SOLUTION   NOT   CORRECT. 

When  a  maker  makes  up  his  whey  rennet,  he  tries  a  certain 
quantity  of  it  on  a  sample  of  milk  to  see  that  it  is  of  the  right 
strength.  If  the  acidity  of  the  milk  were  the  same  each  time, 
as  well  as  the  acidity  of  the  whey  used,  this  might  be  correct,  but 
as  a  different  lot  of  millc  with  a  difference  in  acidity  is  used,  it 
will  be  seen  that  this  is  not  a  correct  way  of  determining  the 
strength  of  the  whey  rennet.  It  is,  therefore,  better  to  use  a 
commercial  extract  that  will  be  of  the  same  strength  each  day. 

287.  SWISS    KETTLES. 

Swiss  cheese  is  made  in  large  copper  kettles  that  vary  in 
size  from  a  capacity  of  600  pounds  to  3000  pounds  of  milk. 
There  are  two  kinds,  the  fire  kettle  and  the  steam  kettle. 

The  fire  kettle  hangs  on  a  strong  wooden  crane  and  the 
height  of  the  kettle  is  adjustable.  The  adjustment  is  obtained 
by  means  of  a  strong  iron  screw  on  which  it  hangs,  and  which 
passes  through  a  nut  in  the  crane.  The  kettle  hangs  over  a  fire- 
place. This  fireplace  is  built  in  a  semi-circular  form  just  large 
enough  to  receive  the  kettle,  and  connects  with  a  chimney  for 
the  exit  of  the  smoke.  The  front  of  the  fireplace  is  built  of 
sheet  iron,  and  is  semi-circular  in  form,  so  that  when  closed  it 
just  fits  around  the  front  side  of  the  kettle.  It  is  hinged  on  the 
brick  work  on  one  side  (the  side  opposite  the  kettle  crane)  and 
the  further  end  of  it  hangs  from  an  iron  crane  which  is  also 


Swiss  kettle  in  the  Raub  factory,  near  Munroe,  Wis.  The  kettle  hangs  on  a 
heavy  wooden  crane.  The  front  of  the  firsplace  over  which  the  kettle  hangs  also 
hangs  on  a  crane  and  can  be  swung  out  so  that  the  kettle  can  be  swung  away  from 
the  fire.  The  opening  below  the  ^,'rale  will  be  seen  in  frcjnt  (>(  the  kettle.  The  round 
cover  is  dropped  over  the  top  when  the  kettle  swings  forward. 


1 

4 

VieNS    111    tliL-    .--leiirn-   Kieiory. 
in  front  of  the  weigh  can.     The 


.M.Mir.K-.    \i  1-,.,   ^iiwuiuK   uiL-   kciiU-   ssvuiig  around 
to  the  fireplace  has  been  dropped. 


144  Chf.kse  Making. 

placed  on  the  side  of  the  fireplace  opposite  the  wooden  crane. 
By  turning  this  crane  this  sheet  iron  front  can  be  swung  out  of 
the  way  so  that  the  kettle  can  be  swung  out  into  the  room. 
When  the  kettle  is  swung  out  of  the  fireplace,  this  front  can  be 
closed  and  a  sheet  iron  lid,  hinged  against  the  chimney,  can  be 
dropped  to  cover  up  the  hole  for  the  kettle.  A  grate  is  placed 
in  the  bottom  of  the  fireplace,  and  a  fire  door  in  the  sheet  iron 
front  gives  a  place  for  the  operator  to  tend  the  fire  on  the  grate. 
The  steam  kettles  are  set  permanently  on  the  floor.  A 
steam  jacket  is  riveted  on  the  lower  part  so  that  steam  can  be 
used  for  heating  the  milk.  _  A  plug  in  the  bottom  connects  with 
a  pipe  for  carrying  off  the  whey. 


Interior   of   Swiss   cliecsc    factory   at    Florence,    Ohio.     Steam    kettles   are    used    and 
111-;  whey  is  skimmed  witli  a  ceiilrifuRal  separator. 

IISS.     FILLING    THE     KETTLK. 

The  milk  is  strained  into  the  kettle  the  same  as  into  a  vat 
for  Cheddar  cheese.  If  a  fire  kettle  is  used  the  kettle  may  be 
swung  in  front  of  the  receiving  window.  Milk  for  Swiss  cheese 
should  be  paid  for  by  fat  test,  the  same  as  for  Cheddar  cheese. 
It  is  sometimes  claimed  that  rich  milk  does  not  give  as  good 
eyes  as  poor  milk.     This  opinion  probably  comes  from  the  milk 


Swiss  Cheese — From  Mii.k  to  Curing  Cellar. 


145 


being  richer  in  the  fall  when  the  weather  is  also  cooler,  which 
of  course,  keeps  the  milk  sweeter  with  the  attendant  results  of 
very  sweet  milk.  (285.)  Rich-  milk  will  make  more  and  better 
Swiss  cheese  than  poor  or  skimmed  milk. 

280.     SETTING    THE    MILK. 

When  the  milk  is  all  in  the  kettle  the  temperature  should 
be  noted.  The  milk  has  probably  not  been  cooled  at  home, 
though  it  ought  to  have  been  aerated.  (33.)  It  is  therefore 
probably  warm  enough  for  setting.  If,  however^  the  tempera- 
ture is  found  to  be  below  86°  F.,  the  milk  should  be  warmed  to 
that  point.     The   rennet  is   then   added   and   stirred  in  with   a 


Keltle 


d  stirrer 


large  wooden  or  tin  scoop.  The  milk  is  put  into  a  whirling 
motion  in  the  kettle  by  this  operation,  and  after  stirring  for  four 
or  five  minutes  the  motion  should  be  stopped,  so  that  the 
coagulum,  when  it  begins  to  form,  will  not  be  broken  by  the 


146  Cheese  Making. 

force  of  the  current.     In  the  course  of  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 
the  curd  should  be  ready  to  cut. 

290.  CUTTING    SAVISS    CURD. 

A  Swiss  curd  when  ready  to  cut  should  be  of  about  the  same 
consistency  as  a  Cheddar  curd.  That  is,  it  should  make  a  clean 
break  over  the  finger  when  it  is  inserted  (131).  There  really 
ought  to  be  a  cover  for  the  kettle  so  that  the  surface  of  the  milk 
will  not  cool  off.  It  will  be  remembered  (95)  tha.t  rennet  will 
not  act  as  rapidly  when  the  temperature  is  reduced,  and  one 
should  aim  as  far  as  practical  to  keep  the  heat  from  radiating 
from  the  surface.  At  first  the  curd  is  turned  over  with  the 
scoop  so  that  the  surface  coming  in  contact  with  the  lower  layers 
will  warm  up.  After  the  surface  has  been  turned  over  very 
carefully  a  scoopful  at  a  time,  it  is  ready  to  be  cut  with  the 
Swiss  harp. 

291.  THE    SWISS    HARP. 

The  Swiss  harp  is  so  called,  because  it  is  shaped  like  a  harp. 
It  is  an  iron  frame  with  a  long  wooden  handle.  Fine  wires  are 
strung  lengthways  of  it  about  an  inch  apart.  This  is  carefully 
inserted  in  the  curd  and  by  circular  motions  across  the  kettle 
the  curd  is  broken  into  pieces  about  an  inch  in  diameter. 

292.  THE   WIRE   STIRRER. 

The  wire  stirrer  is  a  stick  five  or  six  feet  long,  through  one 
end  of  which  a  group  of  wires  are  worked  into  a  spherical  form. 
This  is  next  inserted  into  the  curd,  which  is  brought  into  a 
circular  motion  around  the  kettle.  The  curd  is  stirred  gently 
for  a  few  minutes  to  keep  it  apart  while  it  firms  a  little. 

293.  ANOTHER  METHOD   OP   CUTTING. 

By  means  of  the  stirrer  the  curd  has  become  about  as  fine 
as  Cheddar  curd.  By  using  the  knives  used  in  making  Cheddar 
cheese  (124  and  126)  the  curd  can  at  once  be  brought  to  this 
condition  without  breaking  and  jamming  the  curd.  It  is  from 
this  cause  that  so  much  fat  is  lost  in  Swiss  cheese  making.  (19 
and  20.) 

294.  INSERTING    THE    W^OODEN    BRAKE. 

A  wooden  brake  that  is  about  four  or  five  inches  wide, 
made  to  fit  the  side  of  the  kettle  closely,  is  now  fastened  in. 
This  breaks  the  current,  causing  an  eddy  in  the  whey  as  it  flows 
around  the  kettle  and  the  heat  is  more  evenly  distributed. 


148  CiiKiisii  Making. 

u!»r>.    <  <M»Ki>(;  Till-:  (;lki>. 

The  kettle  is  next  moved  over  the  fire,  or  tlie  steam  is 
turned  on  if  it  be  a  steam  kettle.  The  operator  stirs  it  vigor- 
ously with  the  wire  stirrer  mentioned  above,  and  the  curd  breaks 
and  contracts  inio  pieces  as  fine  as  wheat.  It  is  stirred  until 
the  temperature  has  been  raised  to  -tU"  or  4'^  Raumer.  Raumer 
thermi^meters  which  start  with  the  freezing  point  of  water  as 
<»  and  run  to  SO  at  the  boiling  point  are  used  almost  entirely 
by  .Swiss  makers.  in  and  4'2'  are  therefore  equal  to  I'.n  and 
l-">')  l''ahrenheit.  After  thr  whey  has  reached  this  temperature 
the  kettle  is  swung  away  from  the  fire  or  the  steam  is  turned 
off.  as  the  case  may  be.  The  stirring  is,  ht:)wever,  continued 
until  the  curd  is  quite  firm,  when  it  is  allowed  to  settle. 

2JMJ.     TKSTI\(;    (lUO    KOK    I'IIlll.\KS.s. 

.\  curd  is  considered  firm  enough  for  dipping  when  it  ceases 
to  feel  nmshy  and  will  squeak  between  the  teeth.  Some  makers 
test  the  C')()k  by  S(|uee/ing  it  into  a  roll  in  the  h;inil  ami  then 
noting  when  it  will  bre;d<  short. 

Thi.>    is   a    point    where    the    maker's   judgmenl    is    very    im- 
portant.     If  the   curd   i.-   not   cooked   enough   it   will   residt   in   a 
glaesler,   and   if  cooked   too  much    the   fermentations    will   wDrk 
so  slow  that  e\e>  will  not  form. 
•2U7.    niri'iNCi    I'liio    <  tun. 

\\  hen  the  ci'id  is  finally  firm  enough,  the  wooden  brake 
in  the  >iile  of  the  kettle  is  taken  out  and  the  curd  is  set  whirling 
in  the  kettle  so  that  when  it  settles  it  will  settle  in  a  lump  in  the 
miildle.  li  is  then  gathered  up  into  a  linen  strainer  cloth  for 
])res>ing.  The  clotii  is  gathered  at  one  edge  in  the  hand  and 
Wet  in  the  wlie\.  and  then  spreail  out  and  rolled  onto  a  llexib'.e 
iron  band.  The  oiiposite  end  is  held  b\-  an  assistant,  or  if  the 
ojierator  is  alone,  he  holds  ii  in  his  teeth,  and  then  tlu>  iron  band 
i>  bent  into  ;mi  arch  and  sliil  under  the  lump  of  curd.  The  cor- 
ners of  the  cloth  are  then  tiecl  together  and  the  whole  thing 
drawn  up  with  a  rope  and  tackle  which  runs  on  a  pulle\-  and 
track,  like  a  lia\-  fork,  to  the  pressing  table. 

It  is  claimed  that  if  the  jiieces  of  curd  that  .are  collected  at 
last  are  put  into  the  center,  they  will  cause  it  to  crack-  ami  from 
the  crack  a  rotten  place  will  start.  The  curd  sIktuM  therefore 
\)c  put  into  the  hoop  in  a  lum]).  and  as  qnickdy  as  possil)le,  S(^ 
that    it    will    noi    become    cool    an<l    brittle    and    therefore   crack. 


S\\ 


l-NMM     Mll.K 


L"i-;i.[-Ai 


149 


Where  lluTc  i.>  cur.i  enough  the  hiiii])  in  the  kellle  nia\   bo  cut 
in  two  and  put  into  two  h<)i)i)s  in  dilTerent  (hppings. 

We  have  seen  thai  the  curd  is  cooked  to  i:>-")  F..  and  it 
seein>  a  wvx  high  temperature  for  a  man  to  put  his  arms  into  as 
the  maker  has  to  do  when  he  scoops  the  curd  into  the  cloth. 
Some  observations  on  this  point  will  show  that  the  whey  cools 
down  to  115'  or  l-.'O'  before  the  curd  is  taken  out.  and  is  quite 
different  from  the  other  high  temperature  which  would  proli- 
ablv  scald  him. 


A  round  Swiss  chcc^e  in  tlio  ho..p-  ''"'>=  cliccso  is  ma.lt-  tlio  thickness  of  the 
lioiip.  :m<l  the  liianieicr  is  adjiustcd  accordingly  by  the  ropo  which  runs  around  it. 
A  round   board   lies  on   top  and  presses  the  cheese   into  the   hoop. 

•^US.     l>UIOSSi\<i   IJUl  .11    SWISS. 

The  pressing  lai)le  is  usu.'dly  on  a  brick  nv  stone  wall  and 
is  slig:hlly  inclined  so  that  the  whey  will  drain  off.  The  curd 
cloth  with  the  curd  in  it  is  init  into  ;i  hoop  made  of  a  band  of 
elm  wood  heltl  in  circular  shape  b\-  means  of  a  cord  that  runs 
around  it.  Our  illustration  shows  such  a  hoop  with  a  cheese 
in  it.  The  hoop  rests  on  a  circular  ])ress  board  while  a  similar 
board  is  placed  on  the  top  of  it.  The  hoop  is  adjusted  in  diame- 
ter 1)\-  means  of  the  cord  so  that  the  cunl  a  little  more  than 
fills  it. 

I'or  the  first  fifteen  minutes  it  is  pressed  lightly,  then  a  little 
more  pressure  is  applied,  and  in  half  an  hour  full  pressure  is  put 
on.  It  is  turned  several  times  a  day.  the  cloth  being-  taken  ofT 
and  readjusted  each  time.  There  are  usually  two  cloths  used  in 
the  operation,  one  cloth  lying  underneath,  and  the  other  spread 
over  the  top  and  tucked  in  between  the  hoop  and  the  cheese. 
The  last  time  it  is  turned  the  date  is  marked  on  it  with  lamp- 
black.    Dry  cloths  are  |)Ut  on  several  times  during  the  day.     The 


P.lock  Swiss  moulds.  A,  tin-  a(ljiistal)k-  end.  ni'ivcd  l)y  a  screw.  11,  the  partition 
wliieli  fits  int.!  (lie  srouves,  making  tlie  ri^;lit  sized  molds  after  the  hlocks  are  cut. 
C.    the    cover   or    follower. 


Itlock   Swiss   under  pressure  in   individu.il    m< 


150 


Swiss  Cmi-:i:si£ — Fkom  Milk  to  Cl'uix<j  Ckllau.       lol 

cloths  should  be  kept  clean  by  thorough  washinj;  and  scalding; 
The  press  may  be  worked  partially  by  means  of  a  screw  as 
shown  in  the  illustration,  but  the  main  pressure  is  obtained  by 
placing  a  post  between  the  cheese  board  and  a  heavy  beam. 
The  post  is  close  to  the  fulcrum  end  of  the  beam,  while  the  long, 
heavy  end  of  the  beam  gives  the  pressure. 
aoo.    iMiEssi.vc;  iilock  swiss. 

Block  Swiss  is  practically  the  same  as  a  round  Swiss  in 
every  way  but  the  form  in  which  it  is  pressed.  It  is  first  pressed 
into  a  rectangular  cake  twenty  inches  wide  and  si.x  inches  thick. 
A  sliding  end  regulated  by  a  screw  adjusts  the  volume  of  the 
mold  to  the  quantity  of  the  curd.  It  is  turned  and  pressed  in 
this  mold  just  like  a  drum  Swiss  for  the  first  twelve  hours.  It 
is  then  cut  into  blocks  six  inches  wide  and  put  into  another  mold 
with  partitions  in  it  just  large  enough  for  each  piece.  Some- 
times, however,  the  curd  is  pressed  from  the  start  in  a  mold  six 
inches  wide  by  six  mches  deep  and  twenty  inches  long. 

300.     MARKIXG   ClIKIi^.SE:. 

When  a  cheese  has  been  in  the  press  twenty-four  hours  it  is 
taken  out.  It  should  be  perfectly  square  at  the  edges  with  no 
wrinkles  left  in  it  by  folds  in  the  cloth.  A  black  paste  made  of 
butter  and  lampblack  is  used  for  marking  the  date  on  it.  It  is 
just  as  important  to  keep  a  record  of  the  way  a  Swiss  curd  may 
act  as  it  is  with  a  Cheddar  curd.  Such  a  mark  will  enable  the 
maker  to  follow  the  cheese  in  the  curing  cellar. 
«<M.   sAi/rixc;  TiiK  ciii5:i5:st:  i.\  dkixe. 

Most  makers  salt  their  cheese  in  a  brine  bath.  A  tank  of 
brine  is  kept  in  a  cool  room,  sometimes  right  in  the  cellar.  The 
brine  is  made  up  by  dissolving  salt  in  water  until  the  brine 
formed  is  dense  enough  to  float  an  egg.  As  cheese  are  salted 
in  the  bath  and  absorb  salt,  it  is  necessary  to  renew  the  salt 
quite  often.  The  cheese  is  innnersed  in  the  brine,  turning  it 
over  occasionally,  as  the  cheese  will  float  and  the  top  rise  a  little 
above  the  surface.  A  cheese  is  kept  in  the  brine  for  three  or 
four  days,  according  to  the  amount  of  salt  it  is  desired  to  work 
into  it. 
3<»3,   s.\i/ri\(;  WITH  nuv  s.\i,t. 

Some  makers  do  not  use  a  brine  bath  for  salting,  but  scatter 
coarse  salt  on  top  of  the  cheese.  The  cheese  is  kept  on  a  shelf 
in  the  cellar,  with  a  sailing  hoop  around  it.     This  hoop  is  used 


t'urinir    cellar    in 
^sc  nre  on  the  slit 


Corners    factory,    near    Monroe.      The    large    drum    Swiss 
The  small  boiler  supplies  steam  for  moisture  when  too  dry. 


I'.lock  Swiss  cheese  in  cellai 
brush  B  on  the  post  is  used  for 
be  seen. 


t    Stearns'    f.ictory,  nea 
^hing  drum  Swiss  chee 


e.    Wis.      The    larwe 
brine  tank  A   is  to 


Swiss  Cheese — From  Milk  to  Curing  Cellar.       153 

simply  to  keep  the  cheese  from  spreading  while  it  is  soft.  The 
salt  draws  moisture  from  the  cheese.  This  moisture  dissolves 
the  salt  and  acts  as  a  medium  for  the  transmission  of  the  salt  to 
the  interior  of  the  cheese.  No  more  salt  should  be  apphed  than 
can  be  absorbed  over  night,  so  that  the  cheese  will  be  dry  next 
morning.  It  is  claimed  that  with  the  brine  method  the  salt  is 
applied  more  evenly  to  all  parts  of  the  cheese.  A  cheese  is 
salted  with  dry  salt  from  three  to  five  days.  If  gas  shows  in  a 
cheese  by  its  huffing  or  bloating,  a  little  more  salt  apphed  to  that 
locality  will  check  the  gas. 

QUESTIONS    ON    CHAPTER    XV. 

1.  What  is  the  cause  of  glaesler  cheese?  2.  How  much 
acid  should  milk  for  Swiss  cheese  have  before  setting?  3.  How 
may  the  acidity  of  milk  for  Swiss  cheese  be  determined?  4. 
Why  are  makers  more  likely  to  have  glaesler  cheese  in  the  fall 
months  than  in  summer?  5.  What  is  the  effect  of  whey  rennet 
in  regard  to  the  acidity  of  milk?  6.  What  is  also  the  possibiUty 
with  regard  to  gassy  fermentations  when  whey  rennet  is  used? 
7.  What  is  the  probable  cause  of  glaesler  cheese  when  commer- 
cial rennet  is  used  and  how  may  this  be  remedied?  8.  How 
much  lactic  acid  starter  may  be  used  in  milk  to  be  made  into 
Swiss  cheese?  9.  Why  is  the  test  for  strength  of  whey  rennet 
as  generally  practiced  in  factories  not  correct?  10.  What  are 
the  two  classes  of  copper  kettles  used?  11.  How  are  the  fire 
"kettles  arranged?  12.  To  what  other  cause  than  rich  milk  can 
glaesler  cheese  in  the  fall  be  attributed?  13.  What  effect  on 
yield  and  quality  of  cheese  does  the  butter  fat  have?  14.  At 
what  temperature  should  milk  for  Swiss  cheese  be  set?  15. 
Why  is  the  current  of  milk  around  the  kettle  stopped  in  a  few 
minutes  after  adding  the  rennet?  16.  When  is  a  Swiss  curd 
ready  to  cut?  17.  How  much  rennet  should  be  used  in  making 
Swiss  cheese?  18.  How  is  a  Swiss  curd  cut?  19.  Describe  a 
Swiss  harp.  20.  Why  is  a  Cheddar  curd  knife  better  for  cutting 
a  Swiss  curd  than  a  Swiss  harp?  21.  What  is  the  purpose  of 
the  wooden  brake  placed  in  the  side  of  the  kettle  while  heating 
the  curd?  22.  At  what  temperature  should  a  Swiss  curd  be 
cooked?  23.  How  do  the  Raumer  and  Fahrenheit  scales  com- 
pare? 24.  When  is  a  curd  sufficiently  firm  for  dipping?  25. 
What  is  the  eflfect  of  an  over  cook?     26.  What  is  the  effect  of  an 


154  Cheese  Making. 

under  cook?  27.  How  is  the  curd  gathered  into  a  lump  or  cake 
when  firm  enough  to  dip?  28.  How  is  the  press  cloth  put 
around  the  cake?  29.  How  is  the  curd  transferred  from  tne 
kettle  to  the  pressing  table?  30.  How  is  a  drum  Swiss  pressed? 
31.  How  is  the  hoop  or  mold  adjusted?  32.  Why  should  care 
be  taken  in  putting  th€  last  pieces  of  curd  with  the  lump  on  the 
press?  33.  What  trouble  may  result  if  the  curd  cracks?  34. 
How  are  the  cloths  adjusted  on  the  cheese?  35.  How  is  a 
cheese  marked?  36.  What  two  methods  of  salting  Swiss  cheese? 
37.  How  strong  should  the  brine  be  made?  38.  How  long  is 
a  cheese  left  in  the  brine?  39.  How  is  a  cheese  dry  salted? 
40.  What  advantage  is  claimed  for  brine  salting  over  dry  salting? 


Chapter  XVI. 
SWISS  CHEESE -WORK  IN   THE    CELLAR. 


:{o:5.    s'rvn'i"i\<;  tiiI':  iovios. 

l-'roni  the  saltiiii;-  slult  or  brine  tank  the  cheese  is  taken  to 
the  curing  ceUar.  l  he  curing  covers  two  stages  and  the  cheese 
should  be  handled  in  two  cellars  to  secure  the  proper  conditions 
for  a  perfect  curing.  The  first  curing  cellar  should  be  kept  at 
a  temperature  of  about  70°  F.  At  this  temperature  the  gassy 
fermentations  set  in  and  start  the  eyes.  By  sounding  on  the 
cheese  by  tapping  with  the  finger,  the  eyes  can  be  located,  for 
the  cheese  will  begin  to  sound  hollow.  Care  should  be  taken  to 
prevent  the  eyes  forming  too  much  in  one  part.  Eyes  may  be 
checked  by  salt,  or  they  may  be  developed  by  a  little  higher 
temperature  and  more  moisture.  .A.s  a  cheese  dries  out  the 
eyes  are  checked.  .\  steam  jet  in  the  cellar  will  provide  desired 
moisture. 

:104.     IIK.VSOX    FOIl    >l.\lvl.\<i    Ill.tXIv    .SWISS. 

r>lock  Swiss  are  handy  for  cutting.  Sometimes  where  the 
fermentations  are  hard  to  control,  block  Swiss  is  made  instead 
of  the  round  variety,  for  the  blocks  being  smaller,  gassy  fermen- 
tations can  be  checked  quicker,  and  on  the  other  hand,  where 
the  eyes  are  slow  in  forming  they  can  be  coaxed  easier. 

a(»5.     li.WDMNO    OX    THE    SIIIOI.VIOS. 

The  large  round  cheese  is  kept  on  a  round  cheese  board. 
Jhis  is  so  that  the  cheese  can  be  handled  easier.  The  cheese  is 
kept  free  from  mold  by  frequent  scrubbing  with  a  long-handled 
brush  luade  f(^r  the  purpose.  When  it  becomes  neccssarv  to 
turn  a  cheese,  it  is  carried  on  this  cheese  board  to  a  table,  where 
it  is  l1op])o<l  over  onto  another  board  of  the  same  kinn.  Tlie 
turning  at  the  press  is  done  in  like  manner. 
:ioG.   tub:  .skcoxd  ckll.vk. 

Alter  the  eyes  have  been  well  started,  the  cheese  is  trans- 
ferrecl  to  a  second  cellar  which  is  kept  at  about  (I<^  I"".  Here 
the  eyes  may  still  develo])  slowly,  but  they  should  not  bloat  the 
cheese.     Tf  a  maker  attempts  to  cure  cheese   in  oiu-   cellar,   he 

1.=;' 


156 


CuiiEsii  AIakixi;. 


will  be  likely  either  not  to  get  the  eyes  started,  or  if  they  do 
start  they  may  develop  tO(j  far. 

307.     HA.\DLI.\(;    IILOCK    .SWISS    IX    CKKLAK. 

Block  Swiss  being  smaller  than  drums  are  UKjre  easily 
handled.  They  should  be  washed  often  enough  to  keep  them 
clean  from  mold.  Care  should  be  taken,  however,  not  to  keep 
them  wet,  for  in  that  case  the  rinds  will  soften. 

»OS.     I.KAGTH    OF    CURIXG    PKRIOD. 

Swiss  cheese  cures  slowly.  As  described  under  the  para- 
graph on  galactase,  this  enzyme  breaks  down  the  hard  curd  into 
soluble  peptones.  This  process  takes  a  nund)er  of  months  and 
a  fine  Swiss  cheese  should  be  at  least  eight  or  ten  months  old 
before  it  is  ready  for  consumption. 


\    b    I  1    '  ;    ;nric    tubs    of    cheese,    wcighinc 
LiriiiiLft's    w.Trehouse,    Monroe. 


ini;    delivered    ;U 


;{0!».     IIO.VIXO    DIIUM    SWIS.S. 

I  )nim  Swiss  are  shipped  in  large  tub>.  'i'lie  tub  is  made  a 
little  tapering,  ami  to  fil  the  diameter  ni  the  cheese.  First  a 
large  rouml  scale  board  is  put  in  the  b(jtl(_)m  of  the  tub.  A 
cheese  that  just  fills  the  tub  in  diameter  is  lifte<I  in  and  pressed 
tight  against  the  bottom.  .\.n(Jther  scale  ])oard  next  follows 
and  on  top  of  this  another  cheese  is  crowded.  In  this  way 
l)robal)l\-  six  cheese  are  put  in  a  tub.  (  )n  lop  of  the  last  a  scale 
board  is  placed  and  then  the  circular  cover  is  forced  dijwn  on 
top,  by  the  maker  standing  on  it  and   genil\    crowding  on  all 


Swiss  Cheese — Work  in  the  Cellar.  157 

sides.  With  this  pressure  on  it  the  cover  is  nailed  into  place. 
In  this  way  the  cheese  will  be  prevented  from  moving  and  being 
injured  thereby.  Quite  often  a  thousand  pounds  of  cheese  will 
be  filled  into  one  tub.  If  the  cheese  has  to  stand  in  storage  a 
long  time,  especially  if  warm,  it  may  sweat  some  and  the  scale 
boards  will  prevent  the  cheese  sticking  together  and  spoiling 
the  rinds. 

310.  BOXING  BLOCK   SWISS. 

Block  Swiss  is  put  up  in  boxes  six  inches  deep,  twenty 
inches  wide  and  three  feet  long.  Such  a  box  will  hold  a  row 
of  six  cheese.  A  paper  is  put  in  the  bottom  of  the  box,  scale 
boards  between  them,  and  another  paper  on  top.  The  method 
of  grading  cheese  has  been  explained  (281). 

311.  WHEY  BUTTER. 

It  has  been  explained  that  in  the  methods  of  making  Swiss 
cheese  more  fat  is  lost  in  the  whey  than  in  the  manufacture  of 
Cheddar.  It  is  the  general  practice  in  Swiss  factories  to  make 
butter  from  the  whey.  In  the  great  majority  of  factories  this 
butter  is  Httle  more  than  grease.  The  reason  for  this  is  that 
very  crude  methods  are  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  it.  The 
fat  as  it  rises  on  the  whey  is  soft  because  it  is  warm.  Under 
these  warm  conditions  bad  fermentations  are  at  work  causing 
poor  flavors.  The  cream  obtained  is  churned  without  being 
properly  cooled  with  ice  and  the  grain  is  therefore  soft  and 
greasy.  The  grease  thus  obtained  sells  for  about  ten  cents  a 
pound. 

By  the  use  of  a  separator  a  much  more  efficient  skimming 
can  be  done,  and  the  cream  will  be  thick.  With  ice  and  a 
proper  vat  for  holding  it,  fat  in  the  cream  can  be  hardened  and 
ripened  slowly,  and  fairly  good  flavors  obtained.  Then  if 
churned  at  a  low  temperature,  an  efficient  churning  will  be  pos- 
sible with  a  good  grain  and  a  very  fair  flavor  will  be  obtained  in. 
the  butter.  If  this  butter  is  then  held  in  a  refrigerator  until 
shipping,  a  much  better  price  can  be  obtained  for  it.  At  the 
present  writing  a  number  of  factories  where  the  whey  is  handled 
in  this  way  are  turning  out  butter  that  sells  for  twenty  cents 
per  pound,  whereas  the  factories  that  are  making  grease  in  the 
old  way  are  turning  out  an  article  that  brings  but  ten  cents.  It 
pays  to  do  things  right. 


158  Cheese  Making. 

questio]>fs  on  chapter  xvi. 
1.  At  what  temperature  should  Swiss  cheese  be  kept  to 
start  the  eyes?  2.  How  may  the  location  of  eyes  in  the  cheese 
be  determined?  3.  How  may  an  over  development  of  eyes  in 
local  points  in  a  cheese  be  checked?  4.  What  is  the  effect  of  a 
dry  atmosphere  on  the  development  of  eyes?  6.  How  may 
moisture  be  supplied  to  a  cheese  cellar?  7.  What  is  the  advan- 
tage in  making-  block  Swiss  instead  of  drum  Swiss?  8.  How 
are  drum  Swiss  handled  on  the  shelves?  9.  How  is  a  drum 
Swiss  cheese  turned?  10.  At  what  temperature  should  the  sec- 
ond cellar  be  kept?  11.  Why  should  old  and  new  cheese  not  be 
kept  in  the  same  cellar?  12.  How  often  should  Swiss  cheese  be 
washed?  13.  What  will  be  the  effect  of  keeping  the  cheese  too 
damp?  14.  How  long  is  it  necessary  to  cure  Swiss  cheese? 
15.  How  are  drum  Swiss  cheese  shipped?  16.  What  is  the  use 
of  the  scale  board  between  the  rinds?  17.  Why  should  the 
cheese  be  crowded  into  the  tub?  18.  How  many  cheese  are 
placed  in  a  tub  and  what  is  their  aggregate  weight?  19.  What 
is  the  size  of  a  box  for  block  Swiss  ?  20.  How  many  cheese  are 
put  in  a  box?  21.  How  can  whey  butter  be  made  to  bring  a 
much  better  price  than  is  usually  obtained  for  it? 


Chapter  XVII. 
BRICK  CHEESE. 


312.  CHARACTERISTICS   OF   BRICK   CHEESE. 

Brick  cheese  is  probably  so  called  because  it  is  made  in 
the  form  of  a  brick,  and  bricks  are  used  for  pressure  on  the  mold. 

It  is  of  a  milder  flavor  than  Cheddar,  is  moist  and  suits  a 
large  number  of  people  who  like  mild  cheese  especially.  It  can 
be  cut  into  thin  slices  which  do  not  crumble  and  this  brings  it 
into  favor. 

It  may  have  a  few  small  holes  in  it,  but  does  not  have  the 
large  eyes  of  a  Swiss.  It  is  softer  than  Swiss,  but  not  so  soft 
as  Limburger.  The  real  difference  between  brick  and  Limbur- 
ger  is  that  it  contains  less  moisture  and  is  cured  in  a  drier 
atmosphere,  which  conditions  of  moisture  in  and  out  of  the 
cheese  influence  the  character  of  the  fermentation  in  it. 

313.  QUALITY    OP    MILK    REaUIRED. 

For  brick  cheese,  the  milk  should  not  be  as  ripe  as  milk 
for  Cheddar,  and  on  the  other  hand  it  should  not  be  so  sweet 
that  the  rennet  will  not  expel  the  whey  properly,  for  it  will  have 
a  tendency  toward  Limburger  in  the  softness  of  the  texture  and 
gas  germs  may  get  more  of  an  ascendency  in  the  cheese  than 
when  the  milk  is  ripened  further  before  setting.  If  the  milk 
is  ripe  enough  so  that  the  curd  will  string  on  the  hot  iron  before 
it  can  be  gotten  out  of  the  whey,  a  Cheddar  flavor  will  develop. 
One  of  the  finest  Cheddar  flavors  that  the  author  has  ever  ob- 
served, was  in  a  brick  cheese  in  which  an  eighth  of  an  inch  of 
acid  was  developed  on  the  curd  at  the  time  of  dipping. 

314.  MILK,   WHEN    RECEIVED. 

It,  is  evident  that  milk  may  be  received  but  once  a  day  if  it 
is  properly  cared  for,  in  fact  it  will  be  less  liable  to  develop  gas 
in  the  cheese  if  the  milk  has  a.  few  hours  age.  On  the  other 
hand,  milk  that  is  over  ripe  cannot  be  used  without  destroying 
the  peculiar  character  of  brick  cheese. 

159 


160  Cheese  Making. 

The  rennet  test  and  the  acid  test  previously  described  (82 
and  108)  are  of  importance  in  obtaining  milk  of  the  proper 
acidity  for  brick  cheese.  If  the  milk  is  found  to  be  very  sweety 
a  lactic  ferment  starter  may  be  added,  so  that  a  pure  lactic  acid 
fermentation  may  predominate  over  the  gas  forms,  and  thereby 
secure  a  cheese  with  fewer  holes. 

315.  QUANTITY  OF  RENNET  REQUIRED. 

Brick  cheese  is  a  quick  curing  cheese^  and  a  little  more 
rennet  is  used  than  for  a  medium  curing  Cheddar,  The  milk 
will,  of  course,  be  a  little  sweeter  than  for  Cheddar  and  enough 
rennet  is  used  to  coagulate  it  in  twenty  minutes. 

316.  HOW    COOKED. 

Brick  cheese  is  made  in  a  steam  vat,  is  set  at  86°  F.,  the 
curd  cut  and  the  temperature  raised  for  firming,  the  same  as 
with  Cheddar  .The  temperature  at  which  the  firming  takes 
place  depends  on  the  acidity  of  the  milk.  With  milk  nearly  as 
ripe  as  for  Cheddar,  108°  F.  will  do,  while  118°  or  120°  may  be 
required  for  very  sweet  milk.  The  temperature  usually  em- 
ployed is  about  114°  F, 

317.  TESTING   CURD    FOR   FIRMNESS. 

Curd,  when  ready  to  dip,  should  feel  as  firm  as  curd  for 
Cheddar  cheese.  An  over  cook  will  make  the  cheese  dry  and 
corky,  and  an  under  cook  will  make  a  soft  cheese  approaching 
a  Limburger. 

318.  DIPPING   THE    CURD. 

When  the  curd  is  firm  enough,  the  whey  i§  drawn  of¥  so  that 
only  enough  is  left  in  the  vat  to  keep  the  curd  from  matting 
together.  A  few  handfuls  of  salt  per  1000  pounds  of  milk  are 
then  added  to  the  curd  for  the  supposed  reason  of  checking 
gas  fermentations,  but  as  the  salt  dissolves  in  the  whey  and 
runs  away,  this  operation  can  be  of  little  use.  Some  makers 
are  in  the  habit  of  salting  the  milk  by  placing  salt  in  the  strainer 
when  the  milk  is  running  into  the  vat,  to  check  acid  and  gas. 
This,  however,  is  positively  injurious  to  the  milk  (94)  and  does 
not  accomplish  the  object  sought. 

319.  BRICK    CHEESE   MOLDS. 

The  brick  cheese  mold  is  a  rectangular  box  without  bottom 
or  top.  The  common  size  is  ten  inches  long  by  five  inches  wide 
and  eight  inches  deep.  In  some  locaHties  they  are  eight  and  a 
half  instead  of  ten  inches  in  length. 


H)2  Cmicese  Making. 

Slits  sawed  on  the  inside  enable  the  whey  to  more  readily 
escape.     Sometimes  molds  are  made  of  perforated  tin,  bnt  they 
do  not  hold  the  temperature  as  well  as  wood. 
:5:i<».    nuAiM.XG  tabuk. 

These  molds  set  on  a  draining;  table.  The  tal)le  is  about 
thirty  inches  wide,  by  si.x,  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  and  inclined 
toward  one  end.  A  guard  two  inches  high  is  fastened  to  the 
upper  end  and  sides.  A  half-inch  strip  is  fastened  along  the 
inside  of  this  guard  to  rest  tlie  draining  boards  on. 

3'2t.     UltAIM.\(i    UUAKDS 

These  draining  boards  arc  a  foot  or  sixteen  inches  wide 
and  have  several  rows  of  inch  holes  bored  through  them.  These 
boards  are  laid  in  the  draining  table  with  their  ends  resting  on 
the  aforiementioned  half-inch  strips.  A  cloth,  such  as  is  used 
on  the  racks  in  Cheddar  cheese  manufacture,  is  thrown  over  the 
draining-  board,  and  tiie  molds  are  set  side  by  side  on  top  of  this 
cloth. 

;ta2.     FII.LI.\4;    TIIK    MOLDS. 

The  table  sets  close  to  the  vat,  and  the  operator  stands 
between  it  and  the  vat.  With  a  curd  pail  he  dips  the  curd  out 
of  the  vat  and  fills  it  into  the  molds.  The  whey  goes  through 
the  cloth,  and  the  holes  in  the  draining  boards,  and  runs  dowai 
tile  table  and  into  a  whey  gutter.  Care  should  be  exercised  to 
get  just  the  same  amount  of  curd  into  each  mold  so  that  the 
cheese,  when  the  curd  is  all  pressed  tight  together,  will  be 
about  three  or  four  inches  thick,  and  will  weigh  six  pounds 
green.  Wooden  followers  that  just  fit  in  the  molds  are  then  put 
in  on  top  of  the  curd. 

323.     PRESSING   THK    CIIKLOSE. 

One  or  two  bricks  are  placed  on  top  of  the  follower  in  each 
mold  for  pressure.  In  an  hour  or  two  the  mold  is  turned  over 
and  the  pressure  applied  to  the  other  side.  Tliis  may  be  done 
several  times  during  the  twenty-four  hours  that  the  cheese  is 
in  the  press. 

:V2t.     SAI/riXO    THE    CHEESE. 

-\t  the  end  of  twenty-four  hours,  the  cheese  is  taken  out 
of  the  molds  and  salted,  'i'he  salting  is  done  in  a  salting  room, 
which  is  reallv  a  cellar  room  l)etween  the  making  room  and  the 
curing  cellar. 


&s 


mijiii? 


■irr-r- 


163 


1G4  CiiiiESE  Making. 

The  salliiii,^  tabic  is  built  like  the  draining-  or  pressing-  table, 
with  the  exceptions  that  the  sides  are  ten  or  twelve  inches  high 
and  there  are  no  draining  boards  laid  on  it. 

Each  cheese  is  rubbetl  with  salt  on  all  sides  of  it. 

The  salt  dissolves  and  penetrates  to  the  interior  of  the 
cheese,  at  the  same  time  expelling  moisture  which  runs  ofi  from 
the  table.  When  the  cheese  is  partially  salted,  the  surface  is 
scraped  with  a  tool  which  is  much  like  a  [)iecc  of  a  saw  blade. 
The  small  teeth  scrape  up  small  particles  of  the  curd  which  are 
rubbed  into  the  little  crevices  left  between  the  particles  of  curd, 
and  in  this  way  a  smooth  rind  is  formed.  The  salting  usually 
extends  over  three  days,  the  cheese  being  turned  each  day  and 
a  little  coarse  salt  being  laid  on  the  upper  side. 

They  are  piled  two  or  three  layers  deep,  being  laid  on  their 
broad  sides.     l"lu'\-  may  be  piled  deeper  each  day. 

:v^r,.     <  IKI\(;    THK   CHEESK. 

I'rom  the  salting  table  the  cheese  is  carried  to  the  curing 
cellar,  where  it  is  laid  on  tiers  of  shelves  arranged  around  the 
room.  These  shelves  are  ten  or  twelve  inches  apart.  The  cheese 
are  laid  on  their  broad  sides  for  a  week  or  two  until  they  begin 
to  cure,  when  they  may  be  laid  on  their  edges. 

The  cellar  should  be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  about  (>o  1''. 
and  the.  relative  humidity  should  be  S"  t(^  90  per  cent.  This,  it 
will  be  seen,  is  a  little  higher  than  is  best  for  Cheddar  cheese. 
With  such  a  humid  atmosphere  the  cheese  will  probably  mould, 
and  the  maker  is  kejjt  busy  washing  the  mould  off  frt^ii  the 
cheese.  Tie  gets  around  to  wash  each  cheese  at  least  once  or 
twice  a  week,  and  if  necessary  oftener.  The  water  usimI  may 
be  clear  water,  or  it  may  have  a  little  salt  dissf^lved  in  it. 

a2«.     AIM'K.VR.VXCE    OF    GAS— REMEDY. 

Tf  gas  appears  in  the  cheese  it  will  huff  up  ami  bulge  out 
at  the  ends,  sides  and  edges.  Where  this  occurs  to  an\-  great 
extent  the  value  of  the  cheese  is  reduced,  and  the  best  remeilv 
is  to  apply  the  Wisconsin  curd  test  and  elminate  the  cause.  The 
value  of  this  test  was  first  demonstrated  in  brick  cheese  factories. 

:t::7.    (  irixg  proce.ss. 

.\  plug  from  a  green  cheese  will  be  very  harsh  to  the  fee!, 
.and  the  plug  will  benrl  like  rubber.     Tn  the  course  of  about  twO' 


Brick  Cheese.  165 

weeks  the  harshness  begins  to  disappear,  and  the  cheese  will 
break  down  in  the  fingers,  and  mold  like  wax,  though  it  is 
somewhat  softer  and  the  plug  more  elastic  than  Qieddar. 

Brick  cheese  is  usually  shipped  when  it  is  a  month  old.  If 
cured  slowly,  it  is  better  at  two  months  old,  but  being  softer  it 
is  not  as  long  lived  as  Cheddar. 

328.    HOW  THE    CHEESE   IS   SHIPPED. 

When  brick  cheese  is  ready  to  ship,  it  is  wrapped  in  a  good 
quality  of  Manilla  paper  and  packed  in  rectangular  boxes  that 
are  twenty  inches  wide,  five  inches  deep,  and  three  feet  long, 
the  same  size  as  a  Limburger  box  and  one  inch  shallower  than 
a  block  Swiss  box.  Each  box  will  hold  twenty  to  twenty-five 
cheese,  and  the  net  weight  of  the  cheese  in  the  box  will  be  one 
hundred  and  five  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds.  The  box 
weighs  about  fifteen  pounds  more. 

339.     KANCY    STYLES. 

It  has  been  pointed  out  that  the  market  calls  for  odd  sizes 
and  shapes  of  Cheddar  at  higher  prices  than  for  the  large  Ched- 
dar form.  The  same  thing  is  true  of  brick  cheese.  A  round 
cheese  called  a  Munster  is  made  in  every  way  the  same  as  brick, 
excepting  that  the  molds  are  round,  and  made  of  tin  with  holes 
punched  in  the  sides  for  the  whey  to  more  readily  drain  out. 
Being  round  they  are  always  laid  on  the  flat  ends  to  keep  them 
in  shape.  The  salting  and  curing  is  the  same  as  for  brick,  as  is 
also  the  method  of  shipping. 

QUESTIONS  ON  CHAPTER  XVII. 

1.  Why  is  brick  cheese  called  by  that  name?  2.  What  are 
the  characteristics  of  brick  cheese?  3.  What  quality  of  milk  is 
required  for  brick  cheese?  4.  How  often  should  milk  be  re- 
ceived? 5.  What  can  be  said  about  the  use  of  a  lactic  ferment 
starter  in  milk  for  brick  cheese?  6.  How  much  rennet  should 
be  used  to  set  milk  for  brick  cheese?  7.  In  what  kind  of  a  milk 
receptacle  is  brick  cheese  made?  8.  How  does  the  temperature, 
at  which  the  curd  should  be  cooked,  vary  with  the  acidity  of  the 
milk?  9.  How  firm  should  the  curd  be  for  dipping?  10.  What 
would  be  the  effect  in  the  cheese  of  an  over  cook?  11.  What 
would  be  the  effect  of  an  under  cook?  12.  How  far  is  the  whey 
drawn  off  from  the  curd  before  dipping?     13.  Describe  a  brick 


166  Cheese  Making. 

cheese  mold.  14.  Describe  a  draining  table  and  draining 
boards.  15.  What  kind  of  a  cloth  is  used  to  cover  the  draining 
boards?  16.  How  is 'the  curd  filled  into  the  molds?  17.  What 
are  the  dimensions  and  weight  of  a' brick  cheese?  18.  How  is 
the  pressure  applied  to  the  cheese?  19.  How  long  is  the  cheese 
kept  in  the  molds?  20.  Describe  a  salting  table.  21.  How  are 
brick  cheese  salted?  22.  How  are  the  little  crevices  on  the 
surface  between  particles  of  curd  filled  in?  23.  How  long  is  the 
cheese  salted?  24.  At  what  temperature  should  brick  cheese 
be  cured?  25.  What  should  be  the  relative  humidity  of  the  air 
in  the  cellar?  26.  Why  and  how  often  should  the  cheese  be 
washed?  27.  What  physical  change  does  brick  cheese  undergo 
in  curing?  28.  How  is  brick  cheese  packed  for  shipment? 
29.  How  long  should  brick  cheese  be  cured?  30.  How  does  the 
life  of  brick  cheese  compare  with  that  of  Cheddar  and  Swiss,  and 
why?     31.  What  is  Munster  cheese  and  how  is  it  made? 


Chapter  XVIII. 
LIMBURGER  CHEESE. 


330.  ORIGIN   OF    LIMBURGER. 

Limburger  cheese  is  of  foreign  origin,  having  come  from 
the  province  of  Luttick  in  Belgium.  Its  manufacture  in  this 
country  is,  however,  carried  on  by  the  Swiss  and  German  rather 
than  by  Belgian  emigrants. 

331.  CHARACTERISTICS    OF    I^IMBURGER. 

Limburger  is  perhaps  more  generally  known  by  its  odor 
than  by  anything  else.  Many  people  who  have  never  tasted  it 
recognize  the  odor.  But  while  it  is  kept  cool  it  does  not  have 
such  a  pronounced  odor  as  when  warm.  It  is  found  on  the 
market  in  blocks  five  inches  square  and  about  two  inches  thick, 
wrapped  in  Manilla  paper  and  tinfoil.  It  has  a  soft  texture  of  a 
yellowish  color, 

332.  KIND  OF  MII^K  REQUIRED. 

Limburger  is  made  from  sweet  milk.  Except  where  the 
milk  is  gassy,  very  sweet  milk  is  not  an  objection  as  with  Swiss 
or  brick  cheese,  for  the  reason  that  it  is  to  be  made  soft  and 
pasty  anyway,  and  if  the  milk  were  too  ripe  the  rennet  would 
expel  too  much  moisture. 

333.  UTENSILS    USED. 

A  steam  vat  and  curd  knives,  like  those  used  for  Cheddar 
and  brick  cheese  are  used  in  the  manufacture  of  Limburger. 
A  draining  table  like  those  used  for  brick  cheese  is  also  used  but 
the  molds  and  subsequent  handling  are  different  than  for  brick. 

334.  SETTING   THE   MILK. 

As  the  milk  used  may  be  sweeter  than  for  brick  it  should 
be  set  at  90°  F.,  which  is  a  little  higher  temperature  than  is  used 
in  making  brick  cheese.  It  is  proBably  made  up  twice  a  day 
and  the  temperature  of  it  when  received  may  be  a  little  higher 
than  this.  If  it  does  happen  to  be  higher  it  can  be  set  at  the 
temperature  it  happens  to  be  without  cooling  it  to  90°.  Enough 
rennet  should  be  used  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  twenty  to  thirty 
minutes. 

167 


1(58  Cheese  Making. 

335.  cooking  limburger  curd. 

The  curd  is  cut  when  as  firm  as  for  Cheddar  and  brick, 
that  is,  when  it  will  break  over  the  finger  with  a  clean  fracture. 
The  curd  is  stirred  and  the  temperature  raised  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  for  the  above  mentioned  kinds  with  the  exception  that  the 
firming  is  done  at  a  lower  temperature.  Ninety-six  degrees  is 
the  temperature  at  which  it  is  usually  cooked.  If  the  milk  is 
very  sweet  the  temperature  must  necessarily  be  a  little  higher 
than  when  some  acid  has  developed.  The  curd  is  dipped  when 
a  little  softer  than  in  making  brick  cheese. 

336.  DIPPING   THE   CURl>. 

When  the  curd  is  firm  enough  the  whey  is  drawn  down  so 
that  it  just  covers  the  curd  as  is  done  in  making  brick  cheese. 
The  Limburger  mold  is  made  just  like  the  brick  mold  with  the 
exception  that  it  is  twenty  inches  long  instead  of  ten.  The  curd 
is  dipped  into  these  molds  and  allowed  to  settle  together,  brick 
pressure  being  applied.  After  about  half  an  hour  it  may  be 
turned  over.  After  resting  in  this  position  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  the  mold  is  lifted  from  the  cheese,  which  is  then  a  block 
five  by  twenty  inches,  and  two  and  a  half  to  three  inches  thick. 
It  is  next  divided  into  four  sections  so  that  each  section  will  be 
five  inches  square.  The  cutting  may  be  done  with  a  common 
large  bladed  knife,  but  a  better  contrivance  is  a  knife  with  three 
blades  five  inches  apart.  It  is  made  in  the  following  manner : 
A  heavy  piece  of  tin  five  inches  wide  and  fifteen  inches  long  is 
reinforced  by  a  strong  wire  in  the  edge.  Three  pieces  of  heavy 
tin,  four  inches  wide  by  five  inches  long,  with  the  ends  turned 
over  to  stiffen  them,  are  soldered  five  inches  apart  on  one  side 
of  the  large  piece  of  metal.  By  simply  pressing  this  instrument 
down  on  the  block  of  curd,  the  three  bla.des  cut  into  four  equal 
sized  cakes. 

337.  lilMBURGER  PRESSING  TABLE. 

The  cakes  are  next  transferred  very  carefully  to  the  pressing 
table.  This  can  hardly  be  called  a  press,  as  the  cheese  get  no 
pressure  beyond  their  own  weight.  The  table  is  like  the  drain- 
ing table  with  sides  four  inches  high,  but  no  draining  boards 
are  used.  A  rectangular  frame  the  size  of  the  table  fits  inside 
the  table.  A  row  of  the  cakes  is  placed  along  one  side  and  are 
divided  by  wooden  partitions  four  inches  high  and  five  inches 
long.     When  the  row  is  completed  a  long  strip,  the  length  of 


I^iml)iirgiT    molds 
tions    between. 


ini;    table,    showing   the  long  pieces  antl  the  short   parti 


r.iiiiliiir^.  I  I         1         1   .nt    is    the    saliinR    table    with    the   cheese    in    the    salt, 

the   forenromiil   is  a  bu.\  containing   sah.     The  cheese   is   to   be  seen  on   the   shelve^ 

169 


170  Ciii:i:.siv  Making. 

the  tabic,  is  placed  ai^ainst  the  row  ami  another  row  is  laid 
down.  In  this  manner  several  rows  are  laid  down  and  the  last 
long  strip  held  in  place  by  several  sticks  wedged  in  between  the 
strip  and  the  opposite  side  ot  the  table.  The  cakes  are  turned 
a  number  of  times  in  order  to  drain  them  and  firm  the  surfaces. 
The  temperature  of  the  room  should  be  about  GO^  F.  In 
twenty-four  hours  they  go  to  the  salting  table. 

33S.     S.ILTING    L.I.MBI  R<iE:K. 

Limburger  is  salted  in  much  the  same  way  as  brick  cheese. 
First  the  edges  are  rolled  over  in  a  bo.x  of  salt  and  then  salt 
rubbed  on  the  two  broad  surfaces.  It  is  laid  on  the  draining 
table  in  single  layers  for  the  first  day.  The  second  day  it  is 
salted  again  in  the  same  way  and  piled  in  two  layers.  The  third 
day  it  is  salted  again  and  piled  three  or  four  layers  deep.  Lim- 
burger is  salted  on  the  average  about  four  days. 

33».     CUUI\G    LI.MBriKiEK. 

The  curing  of  Limburger  is  a  putrefactive  fermentation.  It 
goes  from  the  salting  table  to  the  curing  shelves,  where  the 
cakes  are  laid  on  their  broad  sides.  They  are  washed  every 
day  with  water  to  keep  them  free  from  mould  and  to  keep  them 
moist.  The  atmosphere  of  the  cellar  should  have  a  relative 
humidity  of  95  and  the  temperature  should  be  about  58^  tc. 
63°  F.  Lender  these  conditions  the  surface  soon  begins  to  get 
shiny  and  soft  and  change  from  white  to  a  reddish  yellow.  This 
change  works  its  way  to  the  center,  changing  the  harsh  curd  to 
a  soft  condition.  After  about  ten  days  the  cheese  may  be  set 
close  together  on  their  edges.  This  change  requires  from  four 
to  six  weeks  to  work  to  the  center,  and  the  cheese  is  then  ready 
to  ship. 

340.  SHIPl'ING   LIMBUKGER. 

The  cheese  is  first  wrapped  in  Manilla  paper  and  then  in 
tinfoil  and  is  packed  in  boxes  twenty  inches  wide,  five  inches 
deep  and  thirty-six  inches  long.  It  may  be  held  in  storage  for 
a  month  or  two  longer  before  it  reaches  the  consumer,  but  being 
so  soft  it  is  not  long  lived. 

341.  CAISE   OF   THE    IM  THE F ACTIVE    FERMENTATION. 

The  main  cause  of  the  putrefactive  fermentation  is  the  ex- 
tremely moist  condition  in  which  it  is  kept.  It  mav  be  brought 
about  in  harder  cheese  like  brick  and  Cheddar,  if  they  are  kept 


LiMBURGER  Cheese.  171 

wet,  or  come  in  contact  with  each  other  or  a  moist  wall^  in  a 
very  moist  atmosphere. 

QUESTIONS  ON  CHAPTER  XVIII. 

1.  Where  did  Limburger  cheese  originate?  2.  What  are 
the  characteristics  of  Limburger?  3.  In  what  kind  of  packages 
is  Limburger  found  in  the  market?  4.  What  quahty  of  milk  is 
required  for  Limburger  manufacture?  5.  What  kind  of  vat  and 
curd  knives  are  used?  6.  At  what  temperature  is  the  milk  set? 
7.  At  what  temperature  is  the  curd  firmed?  8.  What  would  be 
the  effect  of  over  ripe  milk  on  the  cheese?  9.  How  firm  should 
the  curd  be  when  ready  to  dip?  10.  What  kind  of  a  mold  is 
used  and  what  are  its  dimensions?  11.  How  much  pressure 
is  applied  to  the  curd  in  the  molds?  12.  What  is  the  treatment 
of  the  curd  in  the  molds?  13.  Into  what  sized  blocks 
is  the  curd  cut  when  the  mold  is  removed?  14.  How  is  the 
curd  cut  into  blocks?  15.  Describe  a  pressing  table,  16.  How 
long  is  the  cheese  ieft  on  the  pressing  table?  17.  How  is  the 
cheese  salted?  18.  How  long  is  the  cheese  left  in  the  salt?  19. 
How  is  Limburger  handled  in  the  curing  room?  20.  How  long 
is  Limburger  in  curing  and  what  is  the  physical  change  that 
takes  place?  21.  How  is  Limburger  packed  for  market?  22. 
What  conditions  especially  favor  the  characteristic  fermentation 
of  Limburger? 


Chapter  XIX. 
EDAM  CHEESE. 


342.  CHARACTERISTICS    OF   EDAM    CHEESE. 

In  our  best  grocery  stores  one  sees  cheese  put  up  in  the 
form  of  round  balls  about  six  inches  in  diameter.  They  are 
colored  a  dark  red  or  are  of  a  bright  yellow  color,  or  may  be 
wrapped  in  tinfoil.  E^ch  cheese  weighs  about  four  pounds 
and  sells  for  a  dollar,  or  at  the  rate  of  twenty-five  cents  per 
pound.  The  texture  is  perfectly  solid  and  has  a  flavor  much 
Hke  an  old  Cheddar  excepting  that  it  is  a  little  more  salty  and 
is  a  little  harder. 

343.  ORIGIN    OF   EDAM   CHEESE. 

I  By  referring  to  a   map  of 

Holland  it  will  be  seen  that 
*  North   Holland  is  that  por- 

tion of  the  country  west  of 
r  i      the    Zuyder    Zee.     Edam    is 

situated  on  the  Zuyder  Zee, 
about  twelve  miles  northeast 
of  Amsterdam.  Edam  cheese, 
together  with  Gouda,  is  made 

J      in  other  parts  of  Holland,  but 

that  portion  north  of  the  North  Sea  canal  on  which  Amsterdam 
is  situated,  and  west  of  the  Zuyder  Zee,  is  especially  devoted  to 
Edam  cheese.  Every  week  markets  are  held  at  Edam,  Purmer- 
end,  Alkmaar  and  Hoorn  for  the  sale  of  cheese. 

344.  FARMING   OF   HOLLAND. 

A  large  part  of  the  country  is  below  the  sea  level.  Shallow 
lakes  or  seas  like  the  Zuyder  Zee  have  been  surrounded  by 
dikes,  and  the  water  pumped  out.  leaving  level  stretches  of 
country  that  grow  luxuriant  crops.  The  cattle  are  of  the  breed 
known  in  this  country  as  Holstein  Friesian.  There  are  a  few 
cheese  factories,  but  the  farmer  usually  makes  his  milk  into 
cheese  in  his  own  dairy.  The  utensils  are  crude,  the  milk  being 
set  in  a   wooden  tub  and  the  necessary  rises  in  temperature 

172 


A    Dutch   farm   scene   in   the   Beemster   Polder.     Cattle   in 
niilkine    time. 

.    173 


l)arnvaril   just    before 


17^  Cheese  Making. 

secured  by  Iicating  a  part  of  tlie  milk  or  \vhc>-  in  a  kettle  and 
adding-  it  to  that  in  the  tub.  The  cheese  room,  stable,  living 
apartments  and  tool  rooms  are  usually  all  under  one  root.  In 
May  the  cattle  are  turned  out  in  the  fields  until  November,  and 
the  stables  are  cleaned  out  and  usually  used  for  curing  rooms. 
As  there  is  a  lack  of  wood  for  lumber  the  houses  are  built  of 
stone  or  brick,  which  holds  the  temperature,  and  as  the  country 
is  surroundcMl  and  tempered  by  the  sea,  ideal  conditions  are 
naturally  present  for  curing  cheese. 

The  factories  have  vats  which  are  healed  by  steam  as  in  this 
country. 

345.     BDAM    CHEEJsE    IS    IIOM.WO. 

Edam  cheese  has  been  classed  with  the  sweet  curd  cheese, 
but  we  believe  that  the  best  quality  of  it  really  approaches  very 
close  to  the  Cheddar.  Hollanders  have  considerable  trouble 
with  the  gassy  fermentations,  and  use  a  starter  of  sour  whey 
which  contains  a  lactic  acid  germ.  The  milk  is  also  made  up 
once  a  day,  which  gives  the  night's  milk  a  chance  to  ripen.  The 
author  observed  sour  Edams  in  the  factories  and  dairies,  and 
on  the  markets,  which  shows  that  the  lactic  acid  sometimes  gets 
the  start  of  the  makers.  The  purpose  of  the  whey  starter  is  to 
check  the  gaseous  fermentations. 
:m(;.   thkatmext  or  cheio.se  fok  market. 

The  cheese  is  marketed  when  it  is  about  a  month  old.  It 
may  mould  some  on  the  shelves,  and  is  therefore  washed  and 
then  dried.  A  coat  of  linseed  oil  is  rubl)ed  over,  which  makes 
the  cheese  shine.  It  is  loaded  into  cart-;  without  boxing  and 
carried  to  market. 

317.     UESCKII'TIOX    OF    A\    EDAII     ^lAKKET. 

( )n  arriving  at  the  market,  w  hich  is  a  large  open  space  in 
I  he  middle  of  the  city  paved  with  stones,  straw  is  first  laid  down 
on  tlie  ])aveuient  and  the  cheese  piled  on  il  in  pyramidal  pile 
like  so  many  cannon  ])alls.  The  pile  is  covered  over  with  a 
cloth  to  protect  it  from  the  heat  of  the  sun.  When  ihe  market 
opens,  buyers  pass  among  the  piles  and  try  a  sain])Ie  from  each 
pile  with  a  tryer  the  same  as  is  done  with  other  cheese.  If  the 
bargain  is  closed  the  salesman  and  buyer  shake  hands  as  if  thev 
wonld  ne\-er  let  go,  but  if  on  tlu'  conirar\  no  ba.rg.'iin  is  made, 
the  buyer  goes  on  and  the  salesman  tui-n-  the  plugged  cheese 
over  ami  places  it  in  the  IxXtom  of  the  pile,  .-ind  awaits  the  next 


..Mil    l.ul.lings  at    Oe    Uiju,    Xortli    llollaiul. 


i:g 


CiiiJcsi-:  Makim 


inspection  of  his  goods.  When  the  cheese  is  sohl.  it  is  phiceil 
on  skids,  which  will  hoM  ahoul  l-")0  cheese,  and  (jificial  weig-hcrs 
place  it  u])on  large  balances  in  the  market  Ijnilding  and  l)alance 
ihe  cheese  with  official  weights,  'idle  l)U\er  then  takes  pixs- 
session  ot  his  cheese.  The  price  paid  will  j^rohahly  correspond 
to  the  price  paid  for  Cheddar  in  this  countr\-.  The  liest  cheese 
reach  this  conntry,  but  are  not  consumed  until  they  are  eight, 
ten    or    |:)Ossiblv    twelve    months    oM.     'The    fine    characteristic 


Cnrum   i-...,n.   ..f  an    IC.l.ini  clicc^c   f;,ctnry   at    TIooKskar-pcl    in    Xmi-iIi    Ilollan.l. 

llavor  cannot  be  devehjped  in  le>s  time,  and  it  nnisl  be  (le\eloi)ed 
at  a  tem])t.ralure  not  to  exceed  (I.')  l'".  When  it  is  cured,  it  may 
be  sniooiheil  down  in  a  turning  huhe.  The  red  color  is  ob- 
laine(l  b\  immersing  it  for  half  a  minute  in  an  alcoholic  solution 
of  earnnne. 


:5is.    i'(»ssniii,i'rii':s  oi'   >i  \m  i- \< 'ii  ui-,  i\    aiiioick  v. 

As  the  milk  in  .\merica  i>  generall\-  richer,  the  sanitarv 
conditions  better,  and  the  climatic  conditions  can  be  artihcialh' 
supiilied.  it  i-,  po-sible  to  mnki'  an  l''<lam  in  this  country  that  is 
full\-  e(iual.  if  not   ->ui)erior.  to  the  be-t  imported   I'Mam. 


The   weekly  cheese   market   al    llo.^rn.    Ncuih    II..Iki 
the   cheese   is   wciKhe-l   is  ju.t    I.eyuna   tlic   slaliie. 


The   market    huihliiiK   where 


177 


178  Ciiiiiisi-:  AIakixg. 

»4y.     .>l.\RIvET    I"'(>lt    KIJVM    I\    .\>IKUICA. 

Edam  as  sold  at  wluilesale  in  this  countiy,  is  packed  in 
cases  of  one  dozen  cheese  each  or  about  fifty  pounds,  and  sells 
at  about  $^on  per  case.  This  is  fifteen  cents  per  pound,  and 
ought  to  encourage  the  manufacture  of  this  kind  of  cheese. 
Many  wholesale  houses  are  very  anxious  to  buy  it  in  large 
quantities. 

350.     METHOD    or    .HAXLFACTtRE. 

The  description  already  given  will  give  a  fair  idea  of  Edam 
cheese  as  found  in  Holland.     As  the  methods  of  manufacture 
used  in  Holland  are  crude,  the  method  here  given  will  be  for 
practical  and  scientific  conditions  as  found  in  America. 
:t.->i.    urvMi'v  oi'  >iii>K  Ki'MK  iuin>. 

As  has  been  explained,  Edam  is  reall\'  a  cheese  in  wliieh 
the  lactic  fermentation  is  developed,  'idle  milk  then  nui>t  be 
such  as  is  used  for  Cheddar,  and  the  acidity  should  be  deter- 
mined by  the  rennet  test  in  like  manner ;  in  fact,  the  milk  should 
be  colored  and  set,  and  the  curd  cut  and  firmed  in  the  same 
manner  as  for  Cheddar.  W  hen  one-eighth  of  an  inch  of  aci<l 
shows  on  the  hot  iron,  the  whey  shotild  be  drawn  and  the  ctu'd 
stirred  free  from  whey. 
:ir,-2.    iiAM)i,ix\ci  Till':  cuun  kor  kd.v.ii. 

ddie  curd  is  held   for  a  time  in  the  vat  or  curd  sink  in  a 
granular  condition,  to  air  and  develop  acid,  until  it  will  string- 
half  an  inch  to  an  inch  011  the  iron,  and  then  it  goes  into  the 
molds. 
:ir,:i.    ki>am  molds. 

The  molds  for  \-jh\n\  cheese,  as  fotnid  in  Tlolland,  are 
mostly  made  of  wood,  but  manufacturers  of  dairy  supplies  in 
this  country  have  found  difficulty  in  making  them  of  wood,  so 
that  they  will  hold  their  shape  and  not  check.  Thcv  arc  there- 
fore making  castiron  molds  which  are  turned  down  and  gal- 
vanized. Each  mold  consists  of  two  parts — a  bottom  part 
shape<l  like  a  bmvl  with  hemispherical  bottom;  and  a  top.  the 
interior  of  which  is  a  true  hemisphere  that  fits  into  the  bottom 
part,  and  when  pushed  into  it  leaves  an  interior  space  perfectlv 
spherical.  The  two  halves  have  flanges  on  the  ends  which 
make  them  set  squarely  against  other  molds  or  the  press  heads. 
Holes  drilled  through  these  flanges  enable  the  maker  to  insert 


179 


180  CiiEESt:  Making. 

an  iron  hook  and  pull  the  top  and  bottom  apart.  Several  small 
holes  through  the  ends  of  the  halves  allow  the  whey  to  escape 
from  the  imprisoned  curd. 

:{r.4.    .MKTHOD.s  OF  I'K i-:ssi.\«;. 

In  Holland  iwn  cheese  go  in  a  press  together,  one  mold  on 
top  of  the  other  with  a  briek  or  wooden  4x4,  3  feet  long,  above 
tlieui  both  for  pressure.  A  ^■oung  American  gang  press  is  better 
tlian  this,  as  it  saves  both  lal)or  and  space. 

::.-..■;.    iiooimxc;  tiik  ci  un. 

I'he  curd  is  packed  in  the  mold  as  tight  as  it  can  be  crowded 
with  ihe  hanils.  and  is  rounded  off  on  top.  The  cover  is  placed 
on  top  and  the  mold  placed  in  the  press.  Pressure  is  applied 
gradually  for  a  few  minutes  and  full  pressure  put  on  in  ten 
minutes.      In  half  an  hour  the  cheese  is  taken  out  and  dressed. 

-.tr.ii.    i)icKSM.\<;  l:d.v.m  cihoio.sk. 

If  just  the  right  amount  of  curd  is  placed  in  the  mold,  the 
cliee  e  will  be  spherical  and  not  much  of  a  paring  will  have  to 
be  taken  nff  where  the  c(\i::;t'  of  the  two  hemispheres  meet.  A 
bandage  of  chees  clotli  is  now  wet  with  warm  water  and  wrapped 
around  the  cheese,  and  a  small  cap  laid  nu  each  end.  This 
coming  between  the  iron  mold  and  curd  makes  the  cheese 
close  perfectlx.  Care  should  be  taken  to  la])  the  cloth  evenly 
so  that  wluMi  taken  off  from  the  clu-ese  deep  wrinkles  will  not 
be  left.  The  chc  c  is  pressed  for  the  remainder  of  twenty 
hours.  Tt  is  then  taken  out,  and  if  desired,  the  bandage  may 
be  taken  off  immediatel}'.  or  it  may  he  left  until  later  to  prevent 
cracking.  It  can,  however.  probal)ly  be  taken  off  more  easily 
when    fresh    from   the  mold. 

::.-,r.    '.vi/i"i\<;  Env:»is, 

Tlie  cheese  is  now  rubbed  with  salt  and  placed  in  a  salting 
cup.  This  is  a  cup  slightly  larger  than  the  l)ottoni  part  of  the 
mold.  Tt  holds  the  cheese  in  shai)e  and  allows  of  a  thin  la\er 
of  salt  on  the  underside.  Tt  is  salted  daily,  turning  it  each  time, 
until  it  feels  hard.     Tt  then  goes  to  the  curing  shelves. 

:ir,s.    (  ri<i\<;  lon.x^i. 

The  curing  ]irocess  is  practically  the  same  as  fi^r  Cheddar, 
and  the  same  conditions  must  be  obtained  :  that  is,  a  tempera- 
ture of  aT)out  sixty  degrees  anrl  a  relative  hiuuidity  of  ;ibout 
eight  V. 


Edam  Cheese.  181 

369.  shelves  for  new  cheese. 

The  shelves  for  the  new  cheese  have  holes  about  two  inches 
in  diameter  cut  out,  and  reamed  out  on  the  top  side  so  that  the 
cheese  does  not  get  out  of  shape,  setting  squarely  on  its  end. 
After  a  month  or  six  weeks  it  can  be  set  on  end  without  injury 
to  the  cheese.  Of  course,  each  cheese  is  turned  and  rubbed 
every  day  or  two,  and  if  any  tendency  to  crack  occurs  (which 
by  the  way  is  one  of  the  serious  difficulties  that  will  be  met)  a 
very  little  salt  scattered  on  the  surface  will  check  this  tendency. 
When  the  cheese  is  a  month  old,  a  little  cheese  grease  or  oil 
rubbed  on  the  surface  will  prevent  a  too  rapid  drying  out. 

360.  LENGTH   OP    CURING   PERIOD. 

This  kind  of  cheese  will  not  be  a  success  unless  it  is  cured 
at  a  temperature  not  to  exceed  sixty-five  degrees  for  at  least 
eight  or  ten  months.  A  year  of  curing  will  be  better.  The  fine 
flavor  comes  from  the  lactic  acid  fermentation  to  start  with,  and 
then  a  slow  curing  in  which  the  curd  is  changed  to  soluble 
peptones,  such  as  give  this  cheese  and  Cheddar  their  particular 
flavors. 

361.  PREPARING  THE   CHEESE   FOR  MARKET. 

The  cheese,  when  fully  cured,  should  be  washed  and  then 
scraped  or  turned  down  in  a  lathe.  If  the  fancy  requires  it, 
the  rind  may  be  colored  with  an  alcoholic  solution  of  carmine, 
as  previously  indicated,  and  then  wrapped  in  tinfoil  to  prevent 
further  evaporation. 

A  box  18x24  inches,  six  inches  deep  will  hold  a  dozen 
cheese.  Paper  should  be  put  in  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  box 
and  thin  pieces  of  board  placed  between  them. 

QUESTIONS   ON   CHAPTER   XIX. 

1.  What  are  the  characteristics  of  Edam  cheese?  2.  Where 
did  Edam  cheese  originate?  3.  Where  in  Holland  is  the  city 
of  Edam?  4.  What  is  peculiar  about  the  farms  in  Holland? 
5.  What  breed  of  cattle  is  kept  in  Holland?  6.  Do  farm  dairies 
or  cheese  factories  predominate?  7.  In  what  kind  of  a  vessel 
is  the  cheese  made  and  how  is  the  temperature  regulated?  8, 
Of  what  material  are  the  houses  in  Holland  built,  and  how  does 
this  aflfect  the  temperature  of  the  curing  rooms?  9.  What  are 
the  climatic  conditions  in  Holland  in  regard  to  the  conditions 
for  curing  cheese?     10.  Is  Edam  a   sweet  curd  or  acid  curd 


182  Cheese  Making. 

cheese?  11.  What  kind  of  a  starter  is  used  in  Holland?  L2. 
What  is  the  purpose  of  the  whey  starter  as  understood  by  the 
Dutchmen?  13.  How  is  the  cheese  in  Holland  treated  for 
marketing?  14.  Describe  an  Edam  cheese  market.  15.  Where 
are  the  principal  cheese  markets  in  North  Holland  held?  16." 
What  kind  of  Edams  reach  the  consumer  in  the  United  States? 
17.  How  are  some  of  the  cheese  colored?  18.  What  conditions 
are  necessary  to  obtain  a  fine  Edam  cheese?  19.  What  are  the 
possibilities  for  the  manufacture  of  Edam  in  America?  20.  What 
kind  of  a  market  is  there  for  Edam  in  this  country?  21.  What 
quality  of  milk  is  required  for  Edam  cheese?  22.  How  is  the 
milk  treated  until  the  whey  is  drawn?  23.  How  much  acid 
should  there  be  on  the  curd  at  the  time  of  dipping-?  24.  How 
long-  and  in  what  condition  is  the  curd  held  until  ready  for  the 
press?  25.  Of  what  material  are  Edam  molds  in  Holland  made? 
26.  Of  what  material  are  they  made  in  this  country?  27.  De- 
scribe an  Edam  mold.  28.  What  kind  of  a  press  is  required  for 
pressing   Edams?     29.  How   is   the   curd   put   into   the   mold? 

30.  How  long  is  the  cheese  left  in  the  press  before  dressing? 

31.  How  is  an  Edam  cheese  dressed?  32.  How  long  is  an 
Edam  cheese  pressed?  33.  What  particular  care  should  be 
taken  in  dressing  the  cheese?  34.  Why  is  the  bandage  used  on 
the  cheese?  35.  When  is  the  bandage  removed?  36.  What  is 
one  of  the  most  serious  difficulties  to  be  met  with  in  the  manu- 
facture of  Edam?  37.  How  is  Edam  salted?  38.  How  long  is 
Edam  cheese  salted?  39.  How  may  cheese  be  prevented  from 
cracking?  40.  On  what  kind  of  shelves  should  the  new  cheese 
be  placed  and  why?  41.  How  long  should  cheese  be  cured? 
42.  Upon  what  conditions  does  the  flavor  of  Edam  cheese  de- 
pend?    43.  How  are  Edams  prepared  for  market? 


Chapter  XX. 
COTTAGE  CHEESE. 


362.  UTILIZATION   OF   SKIM   MILlt. 

A  great  many  city  dairies  that  turn  a  large  part  of  their 
milk  into  the  form  of  cream  have  skim  milk  left  on  their  hands, 
and  to  make  the  business  pay  as  well  as  possible,  they  naturally 
look  for  a  means  of  disposing  of  this  skim  milk.  Usually  there 
is  quite  a  demand  for  the  sour  milk  curd,  known  as  Dutch 
cheese,  cottage  cheese,  or  smierkase. 

363.  METHODS   OF   MANUFACTURE. 

As  this  has  been  made  probably  for  centuries,  it  would 
seem  an  easy  task,  and  so  it  is,  if  conditions  are  just  right,  but 
as  large  dairies  sometimes  have  difficulty  in  obtaming  uniform 
results,  a  short  chapter  treating  about  the  manufacture  of  this 
cheese  from  a  scientific  standpoint  may  be  helpful. 

364.  CURDLING   POAVER   OF  ACID. 

As  has  been  explained  the  casein  of  milk  is  precipitated  by 
rennet  and  dilute  acids.  Sweet  milk  can  be  heated  to  the  boiling 
point  without  curdling,  but  as  acid  develops,  the  milk  will  first 
be  coagulated  at  the  higher  temperatures,  and  then  as  the 
acidity  increases,  the  temperature  at  which  it  will  curdle  is 
gradually  lowered  until  skim  milk  containing  .6  to  .7  per  cent 
of  acid  will  curdle  spontaneously.  At  about  70°  F.  skim  milk 
will  not  increase  in  a.cidity  above  nine-tenths  of  a  per  cent  as 
the  growth  of  the  lactic  acid  germ  is  inhibited.  Dr.  Van  Slyke 
found  approximately  5  per  cent  of  sugar  in  milk  used  by  him. 
When  the  milk  developed  .9  per  cent  acid,  the  maximum 
amount,  1.5  per  cent  milk  sugar,  or  28  per  cent  of  that  originally 
present  had  dieappeared;  62  per  cent  of  the  rhilk  sugar  that 
disappeared  wa.s  left  in  the  form  of  lactic  acid.  The  remainder 
probably  disappeared  in  the  form  of  CO2  and  other  volatile  sub- 
stances. 

183 


184  Cheese  Makixc. 

365.  effect  of  fat  on  per  cent  of  acid  in  milk. 

Fat  in  milk  or  cream  takes  the  place  of  some  of  the  milk 
serum.  Cream  containing  35  per  cent  fat  will  curdle  with  about 
five-tenths  of  a  per  cent  of  lactic  a.cid,  and  milk  containing  5 
per  cent  fat  will  develop  hardly  more  than  seven-tenths  per 
cent  of  acid.  This  is  because  the  fat  displaces  a  portion  of  the 
serum. 

see.     ABNORMAL,    FERMENTATIONS. 

When  other  fermentations  than  pure  lactic  acid  occur, 
trouble  may  ensue,  for  gas  may  make  the  curd  froth  so  that  it 
may  be  impossible  to  use  it,  or  the  curd  may  be  slimy  or  the 
flavor  may  be  impaired.  The  way  out  of  such  a  difhculty  is  to 
use  a  lactic  ferment  starter  (113)  in  the  milk. 

367.     MEASURING    THE   ACIDITY. 

As  acidity  plays  such  an  important  part,  it  may  be  desirable 
to  measure  the  acid.  For  this  a  Farrington  Acid  Test  outfit  is 
required.  In  addition  to  the  apparatus  previously  described 
for  testing  milk  for  an  acidity  of  two-tenths  per  cent  (108),  a 
graduated  glass  cylinder  of  100  c.  c.  capacity  is  required  for 
measuring  the  water  carefully.  One  tablet  is  used  for  each 
19.5  c.  c.  of  water,  or  five  tablets  for  97  c.  c.  of  water.  The 
titration  is  then  made  with  17.5  c.  c.  of  milk  measured  into  the 
teacup  with  a  Babcock  pipette.  Each  cubic  centimeter  of  the 
alkali  solution  required  is  equal  to  one  one-hundredth  of  one 
per  cent  of  lactic  acid. 

36S.     MOISTURE,   HOW    REGULATED. 

A  very  important  factor  in  the  manufa.cture  of  cottage 
cheese  is  the  control  of  the  moisture  content.  Seventy-five  per 
cent  of  moisture  makes  a  smooth  cheese  of  good  texture.  More 
water  makes  it  soft  and  sticky  and  less  makes  it  harsh  like  saw- 
dust. The  time  and  temperature  used  in  firming  is  the  im- 
portant thing  here  as  in  the  manufacture  of  Cheddar  cheese. 
The  following  rule  will  usually  apply:  Set  the  milk  at  70°  F. 
until  it  coagulates.  Cut  it  fine  with  a  curd  knife.  Then  heat  to 
90°  F.  in  thirty  minutes.  In  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  draw  the 
whey  and  dip  as  described  in  paragraph  369. 


Cottage  Cheese. 


185 


Dr.   Van   Slyke   has  made   careful   investigations   on   this 
point  as  shown  in  the  following  table : 


■s 

sS 

Texture  of  Cheese. 

1 

III 

■otO 

■BZ  1 
III  . 

Ik 

ii 

X 

M 

jeS 

ofef^S 

^1^gS 

«5S 

Per  cent. 

o 
6 

III 

ml 

ifil 

III 

Water  in 
Cheese. 

1 

60  deg.  F. 

80  deg. 

60 

15 

135 

77.6 

good 

2 

60  deg.  F, 

90  deg. 

20 

5 

145 

78.8 

soft 

3 

70  deg.  F. 

80  deg. 

30 

30 

150 

81.5 

mushy 

4 

70  deg.  F. 

9J  deg. 

40 

15 

10 

73.5 

good 

5 

80  deg.  F. 

90  deg. 

20 

m 

60 

74.9 

good 

6 

80  deg.  F. 

100  deg. 

35 

5 

50 

71.8 

slightly  dry 

7 

90  deg.  F. 

100  deg. 

20 

0 

5 

71.5 

slightly  dry 

8 

90  deg.  F. 

110  deg. 

30 

0 

5 

68.1 

tough,  hard 

369.     DIPPING   THE    CHEESE. 

As  soon  as  the  curd  has  settled  so  that  it  will  not  interfere 
with  the  whey  strainer,  the  whey  is  drawn  ofi  and  the  curd  is 
dipped  with  a  curd  pail  into  a  cloth  strainer.  This  strainer  is 
made  of  linen  strainer  cloth,  and  is  in  the  form  of  a  tube  so 
that  it  can  be  slipped  over  a  wooden  frame.  The  ends  of  the 
frame  are  supported  by  wooden  horses,  which  are  set  over  a 
drain  to  catch  the  whey.  The  curd  is  stirred  in  this  strainer  to 
free  it  from  the  excess  of  whey.  Perhaps  a  little  cream  or 
butter  may  be  added  to  the  curd  at  this  time  to  make  it  softer 
and  more  palatable.  Cottage  cheese,  like  other  kinds,  is  more 
desirable  if  it  contains  a  good  qua.ntity  of  butter  fat.  A  Httle 
dry  sage  or  caraway  seed  may  also  be  worked  into  it  to  give  it 
flavor.  Salt  to  suit  the  taste,  probably  about  two  pounds  to  the 
thousand  pounds  of  milk,  is  also  worked  in. 

3TO.     HYDROCHlvOKIC    ACID    CHEESE. 

Milk  may  be  coagulated  at  once  by  the  use  of  ten  ounces 
of  chemically  pure  hydrochloric  acid,  spg.  1.20,  diluted  to  ten 
times  its  volume.  The  milk  to  be  used  should  be  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  70°  to  80°  F.  The  acid  is  added  slowly  and  stirred  in 
carefully  to  evenly  distribute  the  acid.  Stir  it  until  the  whey 
appears  clear.  The  whey  is  then  drawn  ofif  and  the  curd  dipped 
and  salted  as  described  in  paragraph  369.  The  yield  of  cheese 
in  either  method   of  course  depends  upon  the  composition  of 


186.  Cheese  Making. 

the  skim  milk  and  the  water  retained,  but  it  will  be  from  sixteen 
to  twenty  pounds  per  100  pounds  of  skim  milk.  The  cost  of 
acid  is  four  or  five  cents  per  100  pounds  of  milk,  or  one-fourth 
cent  per  pound  of  cheese.  The  disadvantage  of  the  hydro- 
chloric acid  method  is  the  lack  of  sour  milk  flavor  to  the  cheese. 
This  can  be  produced  in  a  measure  by  adding  some  sour  cream 
or  sour  milk  to  the  curd. 

371.  MARKETING    THE   CHEESE. 

Local  conditions  may  affect  the  form  in  which  the  cheese 
is  put  up  for  sale.  It  can  be  put  into  balls  or  loaves,  which  are 
cut  later,  or  in  paper  packages,  such  as  are  used  for  oysters  and 
ice  cream.  It  always  pays  to  put  up  any  article  in  a.s  clean  and 
attractive  a  form  as  possible. 

372.  SOFT    CREAM   CHEESE. 

Imitation  Neufchatel  and  soft  cream  cheese  is  similar  to 
cottage  cheese,  but  made  in  a  slightly  different  ma.nner.-  The 
imitation  Neufchatel  is  made  from  milk  containing  three  or  four 
per  cent  fat  while  the  milk  for  the  cream  cheese  should  contain 
five  to  ten  per  cent  fat,  the  higher  per  cents  making  the  finer 
quality  of  cheese.  The  milk  is  first  treated  to  a  good  starter  of 
two  to  five  per  cent  of  its  bulk,  and  then  set  with  rennet  at  80°  F. 
When  coagulated  it  is  set  into  a  refrigerator  or  cold  water  is 
run  around  it  without  breaking  the  coagulum.  It  is  cooled  to 
60°  F.  if  possible  and  left  for  twenty-four  hours.  The  acid  will 
probably  develop  to  .6  per  cent,  giving  a  rich  ripened  cream 
flavor.  It  is  then  carefully  turned  into  a  cheese  cloth  bag  and 
hung  up  for  twenty-four  hours  to  drain.  If  too  moist,  a  twist- 
ing of  the  neck  of  the  bag  will  assist  in  the  expulsion  of  moist- 
ure. After  the  twenty-four  hours  draining  in  the  bag  it  is 
salted.  It  can  be  worked  into  rolls  by  filHng  a  tube  and  push- 
ing it  out  with  a  plunger.  The  rolls  are  wrapped  first  in  parch- 
ment paper  and  then  in  tinfoil. 

The  cream  cheese  can  be  printed  with  a  butter  printer. 

This  kind  of  cheese  is  perishable  as  it  contains  a  great  deal 
of  moisture  and  must  be  consumed  within  a  week.  It  should 
be  kept  in  the  refrigerator. 

QUESTIONS   ON    CHAPTER    XX. 

1.  What  two  classes  of  substances  curdle  the  casein?  2. 
What  per  cent  of  lactic  acid  must  be  present  in  skim  milk  to 


Cottage  Cheese.  187 

curdle  it?  3.  What  per  cent  of  lactic  acid  will  curdle  cream 
containing  35  per  cent  fat  ?  4.  Why  does  it  take  a  higher  per 
cent  of  la.ctic  acid  to  curdle  skim  milk  than  cream?  5.  What 
effect  has  temperature  on  the  curdling  power  of  lactic  acid? 
6.  What  will  be  the  effect  of  abnormal  fermentations  on  the 
quality  of  the  cheese  ?  7.  How  may  the  per  cent  of  lactic  acid 
in  the  milk  be  measured?  8.  What  is  the  effect  of  too  much 
acid  on  the  curd?  9.  At  what  temperature  should  the  milk  be 
set?  10.  How  high  is  it  necessary  to  heat  the  curd  to  get  it 
firm?  11.  How  is  the  curd  separated  from  the  whey?  12.  De- 
scribe the  strainer  into  which  the  curd  is  dipped?  13.  What  is 
the  object  of  adding  cream  or  butter  to  the  curd?  14.  How 
much  salt  is  required  for  cottage  cheese?  15.  What  substances 
may  be  mixed  with  the  cheese  for  flavor?  16.  How  should  cot- 
tage cheese  be  marketed?  17.  How  is  hydrochloric  acid  cheese 
made?*  18.  What  proportion  and  what  kind  of  acid  should  be 
used?  19.  What  is  the  disadvantage  of  making  hydrochloric 
acid  cheese?  20.  Describe  the  manufacture  of  imitation 
Neufchatel  and  soft  cream  cheese. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY. 


The  following  books  should  be  helpful  to  the  cheesemaker: 

Dairy  Bacteriology By  Dr.  H.  L.  Russell 

Testing  Milk  and  Its  Products By  Farrington  and  WoU 

Principles  of  Modern  Dairy  Practice  (Grotenfelt) 

Trans,  from  the  Danish  by  F.  W.  Woll 

Handbook  for  Farmers  and  Dairymen By  F.  W.  Woll 

Milk  and  Its  Products By  H.  H.  Wing 

Chemistry  of  Dairying By  Harry  Snyder 

A.  B.  C.  of  Cheese  Making By  J.  H.  Monrad 

Cheese  Making  in  Switzerland By  J.  H.  Monrad 

Creamery  Accounting By  J.  A.  Vye 

Canadian  Dairying By  H.  H.  Dean 


188 


REFERENCES  TO  EXPERIMENT  STATION 
REPORTS. 


The  following  list  of  references  are  to  the  bulletins  and 
reports  of  the  experiment  stations  and  the  United  States  De- 
partment of  Agriculture.  The  list  is  not  an  exhaustive  one  in 
the  field  of  experiment  station  literature,  but  is  intended  to  be 
helpful  to  the  student  who  wishes  to  follow  some  of  the  investi- 
gations which  have  helped  to  place  the  art  of  cheese  making  on 
a  scientific  basis. 
-  References  on : 

(1).     THE   COMPOSITION   OF   MILK   IN   GENERAL.. 

Wisconsin  Experiment  Station  Reports  VI,  pp.  42-63  and 
161-168;  VII,  pp.  114-119;  XI,  pp.  205-217;  XII,  pp.  120-126; 
XIII,  pp.  73-80;  XVI,  pp.  140-152.  Bulletins  15,  16,  18,  61. 
New  Jersey  Bulletins  61,  65,  68,  67.  Massachusetts  Reports 
1888,  1889,  1890,  1891,  1892.     Minnesota  Bulletin  19. 

From  Different  Breeds :  New  York  Experiment  Station 
Report  1891.  Michigan  Bulletin  68.  Nevada  Bulletin  16. 
Cornell  Bulletin,  How  Is  Milk  Formed?  Bulletin  173,  The 
Relation  of  Food  to  Milk  Fat.  Bulletin  169,  Studies  in  Milk 
Secretion.     Bulletin  92,  The  Efifect  of  Feeding  Fat  to  Cows. 

Compositions  of  Butter  Fat  as  Affected  by  Food:  New 
Hampshire  Bulletins  16  and  18;  Texas  Bulletins  11  and  14; 
Alabama  Bulletin  25;  Pennsylvania  Report  1890,  Bulletin  17; 
Maine  Reports  1890,  1891,  1893;  Iowa  Bulletins  13,  14,  16,  17. 

The  Chemistry  of  Dairy  Products,  Ontario  Report  1890,. 
pp.  237-241;  Bulletin  39. 

The  Mineral  Ingredients  of  Milk:  Maine  Report  1890,. 
Part  II,  pp.  52-67. 

Milk  Ash  Analysis:  New  Hampshire  Report  1888;  Min- 
nesota Bulletin  19. 

Variations  in  Milk:  Illinois  Bulletin  17,  pp.  9-16,  and 
Bulletin  24. 

Facts  About  Milk :  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture  .- 
Farmers'  Bulletin  42. 

189 


190  Cheese  Making. 

Variations  in  Milk  During  the  Period  of  Lactation:  Ver- 
mont Report  VI. 

The  Centrifugal  Separation  of  Casein  and  Insoluble  Phos- 
phates from  Milk:     Wisconsin  Report  XII,  p.  93. 

Photographs  of  Section  of  a  Cow's  Udder :  Cornell  Bulle- 
tins 158  and  178. 

The  Feeding  Value  of  Whey :  Wisconsin  Bulletin  27 ;  Re- 
port VIII,  pp.  38-48. 

Whey  Butter:     Cornell  Bulletin  85. 

(2).     FAT    GLOBUIiES    OF    MILK. 

The  Fat  Globules  in  Milk:     Maine,  Report  1890." 

The  Size  and  Number  of  Fat  Globules  in  Milk :  Wiscon- 
sin, Report  VII,  p.  238;  XI,  p.  223.  Pennsylvania,  Report 
1895.     Vermont,  Report  IV. 

In  Milk  From  Cows  of  Different  Breeds :  New  York  Ex- 
periment Station  Reports  1891-92. 

In  the  First  and  Last  Half  of  Milking:  Indiana,  Bulle- 
tin 24. 

The  Grouping  of  Fat  Globules :  Wisconsin,  Bulletin  18, 
Report  XIII,  p.  80. 

(3).    TESTING   MIIiK. 

Testing  Cream  and  Milk:     Maine,  Bulletin  4. 

Purchasing  Milk  by  Test :  Delaware,  Report  VII  and 
Bulletin  31. 

Babcock  and  Beimling  Tests :  Ontario,  Report  1890,  pp. 
183-184. 

Short's  Milk  Test:     Wisconsin,  Bulletin  16. 

Cochran's  Milk  Test:     Cornell,  Bulletin   17. 

Babcock  Milk  Test:     Wisconsin,  Bulletins  24,  31,  36,  52. 

Comparison  of  Milk  Tests :     West  Virginia,  Report  III. 

The  Composite  Test:  Wisconsin  Bulletin  36;  Iowa,  Re- 
port XI,  pp.  482-484;  Bulletins  9,  14,  22;  Illinois,  Bulletins  16 
a,nd  18. 

Detection  of  Adulterations:     Wisconsin,  Bulletin  31. 

Lactometer  and  Fat  Test:  Minnesota,  Bulletin  27,  pp. 
65-56 ;  Maine,  Bulletin  4  (new  series),  pp.  6-10. 

(4).     YIELDS  AND   LOSSES   IN  CHEESE  MAKING. 

The  Influence  of  Fat  Upon  the  Yield  and  Quality  of  Cheese 
— Babcock :     Wisconsin,  Report  XI,  pp.  131-146. 


References  to  Experiment  Station  Reports.       191 

The  Relation  Between  Milk  Solids  and  the  Yield  of  Cheese 
and  Between  Specific  Gravity  and  SoHds  of  Milk :  Wisconsin, 
Report  XII,  pp.  100-120. 

Cheese  Making,  Distribution  of  Ingredients  and  Loss  of 
Fat:  Ha.ndbook  Experiment  Station  Work,  U.  S.  Department 
of  Agriculture. 

The  Composition  of  Cheese,  Milk  and  Whey  and  Their 
Relation  to  One  Another:     Ontario,  Report  1894. 

The  Addition  of  Cream  to  Milk  for  Cheese  Making :  Min- 
nesota, Bulletin  19. 

A  Series  of  Investigations  in  Cheese  Making:  Geneva 
(N.  Y.),  Bulletins  43,  45,  60,  61,  62,  65,  68,  70,  82,  89,  105, 
110,  132. 

The  Loss  of  Cheese  in  Curing:  Wisconsin,  Report  XI, 
p.  144. 

Losses  in  Cheese  Making:  Vermont,  Report  1891,  pp. 
95-100. 

(5).    AERATION   OF  MIIiK. 

Aeration  and  Aerators:  Cornell,  Bulletin  39,  pp.  90-94; 
Vermont,  Reports  1892,  pp.  123-128;  Indiana,  Bulletin  44, 
pp.  37-39. 

On  Flavor  of  Curds :     Wisconsin,  Report  XII,  p.  127. 

Absorption  of  Odors  by  Milk :  Wisconsin,  Report  XV, 
p.  104. 

Flavor  of  Cheese  Affected  by  Foods :  Wisconsin,  Bulle- 
tin 115. 

(6).     ACIDITY. 

On  Acid  Test  of  Cream:     Illinois,  Bulletins  32  and  33. 

Alkaline  Tablets:     Wisconsin,  Bulletin  52,  pp.  8-16. 

The  Influence  of  Acid  on  the  Texture  of  Cheese :  Wiscon- 
sin, Report  XII,  p.  129. 

The  Hot  Iron  Test:     Wisconsin,  Report  XII,  p.  133. 

Experiments  in  Ripening  Milk  Before  Setting:  Wisconsin, 
Report  XII,  p.  136. 

(7).     ORGANIZED  FERMENTS. 

Pure  Lactic  Cultures  in  Cheese  Making  and  the  Rise  and 
Fall  of  Bacteria  in  Cheddar  Cheese :  Wisconsin,  Report  XIII, 
pp.  95  and  112. 

The  Wisconsin  Curd  Test:     Wisconsin,  Report  XV,  p.  45. 

Effect  of  Digesting  Bacteria  on  the  Cheese  Solids  of  Alilk : 
Wisconsin,  Report  XVI. 


192  Cheese  Making. 

Dairy  Bacteriology:  Bulletin  25,  Office  of  Experiment 
Stations,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture. 

Invasion  of  the  Udder  by  Ba.cteria :     Cornell,  Bulletin  178. 

The  Different  Species  of  Bacteria  Producing  Lactic  Acid. 
Connecticut  (Storrs  School),  Report  III. 

Blue,  Red,  Reddish  Brown,  Bitter  Milk:  Minnesota,  Re- 
port 1893. 

Tyrotoxicon — Cheese  Poisoning — Vaughan  :  Michigan 
State  Board  of  Health  Report,  1886. 

The  Fermentations  of  Milk — U.  S.  Department  of  Agri- 
culture; Office  of  Experiment  Stations,  Bulletin  9. 

Souring  of  Milk :  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture  ;  Farm- 
ers' Bulletin  29. 

Isolation  of  Rennet  from  Bacteria  Cultures  :  Connecticut 
(Storrs),  Report  1892,  pp.  106-126. 

Sources  of  Bacterial  Infection:  Wisconsin,  Report  XI, 
pp.  150-165. 

CleanHness  in  Handling  Milk:     N.  Dakota,  Bulletin  21. 

Care  of  Milk  on  the  Farm :  U.  S.  Department  of  Agricul- 
ture, Bulletin  63. 

Sources  of  Gas  and  Taint-Producing  Bacteria:  Cornell, 
Bulletin  158. 

Notes  on  Some  Dairy  Troubles :  I,  Fishy  Flavor  in  Milk  ; 
II,  Bitter  Flavor  in  Neufchatel  Cheese;  III,  Sweet  Flavor  in 
Cheddar  Cheese ;  IV,  Rusty  Spot  in  Cheese.  Geneva,  N.  Y., 
Bulletin  183. 

Control  of  Rusty  Spots  in  Cheese  Factories :  Geneva, 
Bulletin  225. 

Colored  Spots  in  Cheese :  Circular  No.  24,  R.  A.  Pearson, 
U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture. 

(8).     ENZYMES. 

Rennet  Extracts  of  Commerce:  Iowa,  Bulletin  22,  pp. 
845-851. 

The  Chemistry  of  Casein  and  the  Theory  of  the  Curdling 
Action  of  Rennet :     G.  Courant  in  Exp.  St.  Record,  Vol.  V. 

Commercial  Rennets :     Exp.  St.  Record,  Vol.  V,  p.  100. 

Experiments  With  Rennet:  Wisconsin  Report  XV,  pp. 
31-35. 

A  Study  of  Enz3mies  in  Cheese :     Geneva,  Bulletin  203. 


References  to  Experiment  Station  Reports.       193 

Rennet  Enzyme  as  a  Factor  in  Cheese  Ripening:  Geneva, 
Bulletin  233. 

Galactase:     Wisconsin,  Reports  XIV,  p.  161;  XV,  pp.  77- 
93;  XVI,  pp.  157-175. 
(9).   che}e:se:  makiing. 

Hints  to  Cheese  Makers :     Iowa,  Bulletin  19,  pp.  637-631. 

Investigations  in  Cheese  Making:  Iowa,  Bulletin  21,  pp. 
735-767. 

Experiments  in  Cheese  Making:  Minnesota.,  Bulletin  19, 
pp.  20-25. 

Changes  During  Cheese  Ripening:  Iowa,  Bulletin  24,  pp. 
969-984. 

Methods  of  Estimating  of  the  Proteolytic  Compounds  Con- 
tained in  Cheese  and  Milk :     Geneva,  Bulletin  215. 

A  Study  of  Some  of  the  Salts  Formed  by  Casein  with 
Acids — Their  Relation  to  American  Cheddar  Cheese :  Geneva, 
Bulletin  214. 

Some  Compounds  Present  in  American  Cheddar  Cheese: 
Geneva,  Bulletin  219. 

The  Relation  of  Carbon  Dioxide  to  Proteolysis  in  the 
Ripening  of  Cheddar  Cheese:     Geneva.,  Bulletin  231. 

Chemical  Changes  in  the  Souring  of  Milk  and  Their  Rela- 
tions to  Cottage  Cheese :     Geneva,  Bulletin  245. 

Conditions  Affecting  Chemical  Changes  in  Cheese  Ripen- 
ing:    Geneva,  Bulletin  236. 

The  Role  of  the  Lactic  Acid  Bacteria  in  the  Manufacture 
and  in  the  Early  Stages  of  Ripening  of  Cheddar  Cheese : 
Geneva,  Bulletin  237. 

Conditions  Affecting  Weight  Lost  by  Cheese  in  Curing: 
Geneva.,  Bulletin  207. 

Experiments  Upon  the  Curing  of  Cheese :  Cornell,  Re- 
port 1880,  p.  927. 

Moisture  Supplv  in  Curing  Rooms :  Wisconsin,  Report 
XIII,  p.  156. 

Experiments  in  Curing  Cheese  at  Dififerent  Temperatures: 
(jeneva.  Bulletin  234. 

The  Influence  of  the  Temperature  of  Curing  Upon  the- 
(rommercial  Quality  of  Cheese :     Geneva,  Bulletin  184. 

Shrinkage  of  Cold  Cured  Cheese  During  Ripening:  Wis- 
oonsin.  Bulletin  101. 


194  Cheese  Making. 

Curing  of  Cheddar  Cheese,  with  Special  Reference  to  Cold 
Curing:     Wisconsin,  Bulletin  94. 

The  Cold  Curing  of  Cheese.  U.  S.  Department  of  Agricul- 
ture, Bureau  of  Animal  Industry:  Bulletin  49.  A  combined 
report  of  work  done  for  the  Department  of  Agriculture  by  the 
Wisconsin  and  Geneva,  N.  Y.,  Experiment  Stations. 

Cheese  Making — Recent  Work:  Experiment  Station  Rec- 
ord, Vol.  V. 

Manufacture  and  Production  of  Cheese — Alvord:  Year 
Book,  1895 ;  U,  S.  Department  of  Agriculture. 

The  Manufacture  of  Some  Fancy  Brands  of  Cheese — Lusch- 
inger:     Minnesota  Dairy  Association,  Report  XVI. 

The  Ma^nufacture  of  Edam  and  Gouda  Cheese :  Minnesota, 
Bulletin  35,  Report  1894,  pp.  104-128;  New  York  Experiment 
Station's  Report  1893,  pp.  244-269. 

Milk  for  Cheese  Making:     Ontario,  Bulletins  28,  41,  94. 

Notes  for  Cheese  Makers:  Ontario,  Bulletins  40,  43,  44, 
47;  and  Reports  1889,  pp.  163-179;  1893,  pp.  167-170. 

Method  of  Handling  Sour  Milk  in  Making  Cheese :  Wis- 
consin, Report  XV,  p.  42. 

Influence  of  Temperature  on  the  Ripening  of  Cheese :  Wis- 
consin, Report  XIII,  p.  194. 

Coating  Cheese  with  Paraf!ine :  Wisconsin,  Report  XVI, 
p.  153. 

Cleaning  Milk  for  Cheese  with  a  Centrifugal  Separator: 
Wisconsin,  Report  XI,  p.  146. 

Albumen  Cheese :     Wisconsin,  Report  XII,  p.  134. 

Wisconsin  Cheese  Makers'  Association  Reports. 

(lO).     SALT. 

Effect  of  Salt  in  Cheese :     Wisconsin,  Report  XI,  p.  220. 
Salt  and  Its  Prevention  of  the  Swelling  of  Cheese — Freu- 
denreich:     Experiment  Station  Record,  Vol.  V,  p.  91. 
Analyses  of  Salt :     Wisconsin,  Bulletin  74. 

(11).     STATISTICS. 

The  Distribution  of  Cheese  Factories  in  Wisconsin:  Wis- 
consin, Bulletin  60,  Report  XIV. 

Statistics  of  the  Dairy :  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Bureau  of  Animal  Industry,  Bulletin  11. 


References  to  Experiment  Station  Reports.       195 

Statistical  Data  Relative  to  the  Cheese  Industry  of  Wis- 
consin:    Wisconsin,  Report  XIV,  p.  113. 

National  and  State  Dairy  Laws — R.  A.  Pearson:  Bulletin 
of  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture. 

By-Laws,  Rules  and  Regulations  for  Cheese  Factories: 
Canada  Central  Exp.  St.,  Farm  Dairy,  Bulletin  9. 

The  Dairy  Industry  in  Wisconsin:     Wisconsin,  Bulletin  88. 

Wisconsin  Report  XX,  pp.  188-240,  gives  a  resume  of  all 
cheese  investigations  conducted  at  the  Wisconsin  Experiment 
Station  during  the  previous  ten  years. 

Statistics  of  the  Dairy :  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Bureau  of  Animal  Industry,  Bulletin  55,  1903. 


ANALYTICAL  INDEX. 


THE    NUMBERS    REFER   TO    PARAGRAPHS. 


Acid.— Effect  of  on  curd,  137,  138,  189,  164.  Effect  of  too  much  in  milk, 
IIG.  Effect  on  rennet  action,  81,  92.  Farrington's  test  for,  108.  How 
much  required  for.Vs  in.  on  hot  iron,  136.  In  milk  for  Swiss  cheese, 
286.  In  water  for  washing  cloths,  205.  Lactic,  source  of,  28.  Meas- 
ure for  Babcock  test,  57.  Measuring  by  hot  iron,  136.  Sulfuric,  for 
milk  test,  60.     Threads  on  hot  iron  due  to,  137. 

AciDiMETER. — Dean's,  137. 

Acidity. — Effect  -of  fat  content  on  possible,  365.  In  relation  to  curdling 
temperature,  364.  Measure  for,  138,  367.  Of  milk  for  brick  cheese, 
314;  for  Cheddar,  111-116;  Cottage,  364;  Edam,  345,  351,  352;  Swiss, 
285. 

Aerators. — Kinds  of,  34. 

ALBUMINOIDS. — How  divided,  4. 

Albumen. — Character  of,  6. 

Albumose.— Character  of,  7. 

Alkali. — Effect  on  rennet  action,  92. 

Amides. — Formation  of  in  cheese,  197. 

Antiseptics. — Use  of  in  factory,  50. 

Ash. — Character  of,  8.  Effect  of  heat  on,  8.  Reaction  with  Ammonium 
Oxalate,  8.     Soluble  and  Insoluble,  8. 

Babcock  Milk  Test,  54.  Acid  measure,  57.  Bottle,  55.  Centrifuge,  58. 
How  operated,  59.  Kind  and  strength  of  acid  for,  60.  Pipette,  56. 
Reading  of  fat,  62.  Speed  of  centrifuge,  61.  Testing  cheese  with, 
63.     Weight  of  milk  samples,  56. 

Bacteria. — How  introduced  into  milk,  28.  In  barn  air,  35.  Varieties 
of  in  milk,  29. 

Bandage. — How  put  on  cheese.  183.  Starched,  seamless  and  ready 
made,  182. 

Boxes. — For  brick,  328;  for  Cheddar  cheese,  207;  Edam,  361;  Limburger, 
340;  Swiss  block,  310;  Drum,  309. 

Brick  Cheese.— Characteristics  of,  312.     Curd,  how  cooked,  316.     Gas 
fermfentations  in,  326.     How  presed,  319-323.     Quality  of  milk  for, 
313.     Quantity  of  rennet  required  for,  315.     Salting,  324. 
Business. — By-laws  for  factory,  267.     Factory  statement,  272.    Test  com- 

,  mittee,  268.  Figuring  dividends,  271.  Operation  of  factories,  266. 
Prices  for  making  cheese,  270. 

197 


198  Cheese  Making. 

Cap  Cloths.— 183,  184,  192,  194,  195. 

Casein. — Character  of,  5.     How  separated  from  milk,  5. 

Cheddar  Cheese. — Cheddar  system  proper,  107.     Cleaning  mouldy,  198. 

Cracks  in,   190.     Greasing,   190.     Hoops   for,   258.     In   cold  storage, 

192.     Made  from  ripened  milk,  273.     Size  of,  181.     Two  processes  of 

manufacture,  106.     Where  originated,  102. 
Cheese. — Amount  of  from  skim  milk,  13.     Characteristics  of  brick,  312. 

Cheddar,  102.     Corky,  222.     Cottage,  362.     Cracked,  225.     Edam,  342. 

Fancy  styles  of,  329.     Hard,  crumbly,  223.     Limburger,  330.     Poison, 

226      Sweet    curd,    273      Swiss.    273.     Weak    bodied    or    pasty,    224. 

Yield  of  per  100  lbs.  of  milk,  14. 
Cleianliness. — Of  cows,  36;  factory,  41;  utensils,  39  and  40. 
Cloth. — Caps,   183,  184,   192.     Circles,   194.     For  supplying  moisture  to 

air,  205.     Press  cloths,  195. 
Color. — From  annatto,  117.     Of  an  uncolored  cheese,  117.     Of  Cheddar, 
.     219;  Edam,  351,  361;  Limburger,  331;  Swiss,  279.     Requirements  of 

different  markets,  117.     Source  of  in  commerce,  117.     When  added  to 

the  milk,  117. 
Colostrum  Milk. — Characteristics  of,  15. 

Cooking  the  Curd.— Brick,  316,  317.  Cheddar,  122.  Definition  of  term, 
122.'  Effect  of  overcook,  135.  Effect  of  undercook,  135,  188.  For 
an  over-ripe  curd,  131.  Swiss,  295.  Test  for  proper  performance 
of,  135.    When  to  begin,  130. 

Corky  Cheese.— Cause  of,  135,  222.     Described,  222. 

Cottage  Cheese. — Moisture  in,  369.  Marketing,  371.  Method  of  manu- 
facture, 369.     Several  names  for,  362. 

Cracked  Cheese. — How  caused,  225. 

Curd. — Composition  of,  16.  Condition  of  for  salting,  167.  Cutting  into 
blocks,  142.  Piling  of,  160.  Pin-holey,  144.  Steaming  of,  163. 
Sweet,  273.  Turning  on  the  rack.  143.  Washing  of,  145.  Wisconsin 
C.  test,  31.    When  ready  to  mil,  151. 

Curd  Mills. — Advantages  and  objections  to  knife  mills,  161.  Descrip- 
tion of,  152.  Kinds— Barnard,  159;  B.  &  W.,  154;  Elgin,  152;  Fuller, 
158;  Gosselin,  156;  Harris,  157;  Kasper,  160;  McPherson,  155;  Peg, 
152;  Pohl,  153;  Roe,  149;  Whitlow,  154.     Time  to  mill,  163. 

Curd  Sink. — How  constructed,  147.  How  to  fill,  144.  Required  in  fac- 
tory, 258.     Use  of,  148. 

Curing.— Brick  cheese,  325,  327.  Edam,  358.  Effect  of  different  tem- 
peratures on,  198.  Effect  of  humidity  on,  201.  How  long  a  process, 
200.  Length  of  period  for  Edam,  360.  Length  of  period  for  Swiss, 
308.  Limburger,  339.  Shelves.  264.  Shelves  for  Edam,  359.  Shelves, 
how  made,  199.  Temperature  of  room  for  Cheddar,  197.  Chemical' 
changes  in,  197. 


Analytical  Index.  199 

Curing  Room.— Cellars  for,  240,  241.     Cellars  for  Swiss,  306.     Floor  for, 

233.     How  ventilated,  242.     Walls  for,  237,  238. 
Cutting  the   Curd. — ^Cutting   into   blocks   on   racks,    142.     For    Swiss 

cheese,  289-293.     How  to  cut,  123-127.     Rapidity  of  stroke  a  factor 

in,  128.    Test  when  ready  for,  121. 
Daisies.— Size  of,  181. 

Dipping  the  Curd.— Cheddar.  141.     For  brick,  318.     For  Swiss,  297. 
Dressing  the  Cheese. — Cheddar,  186.     Edam,  356. 

Edam  Cheese. — As  found  in  Holland,  345.  Characteristics  of,  342. 
Cheese  market,  347.  Market  for  in  America,  349.  Method  of  manu- 
facture, 350.     Origin  of,  343.    Treatment  of  for  market,  346  . 

Emulsion. — Definition  of,  11. 

Enzymes.— Described,  71.     Galactase,  72.     Rennet,  73. 

Factories. — By-laws  for  association,  267.     Cost  of,  265.     Equiprtient,  258. 

In  Ontario,  229.     Plans  for,  230-242.   Plans  of  operation,  266.    Private 

ownership,  266.     Stock  company,  266. 

Factory  System. — History  of  in  Ohio,  104.  History  of  in  Wisconsin, 
105.     How  carried  to  England,  107.     Where  and  when  started,  103. 

Fat. — As  basis  for  making  dividends,  271.  Characteristics  and  compo- 
sition, 10-11.  Effect  of  on  possible  acidity,  365.  Eflfect  of  on  quality 
of  cheese,  13,  14.  Effect  of  on  quality  of  cottage  cheese,  369.  Effect 
of  on  quantity  of  cheese,  14.  How  excessive  losses  in  Swiss  cheese 
.  may  be  avoided,  20,  Removing  from  curd  for  pressing,  178.  Rule 
for  calculating  yield  of  cheese  from  fat  test  of  .jiiilk,  14.  Specific 
gravity  of,  12.    Value  of  for  Swiss  cheese,  288. 

Fat  Globules. — Number  and  size,  11. 

Fermentation. — Gas  in  brick  cheese,  326.  How  kept  up  in  curd,  141, 
149.  In  curing  process,  197.  In  Limburger  cheese,  339,  341.  In 
manufacture  of  cottage  cheese,  364,  366. 

Ferments. — Two  general  classes  of,  71. 

Flats.— Hoops   for,  259.     How  boxed,  206,   207.     Pressing   in   Cheddar 

hoops,  258.     Size  of,  181.     Twins  and  singles,  206. 
Flavor.— Of  Brick  cheese,  312,  313;  Edam,  342;  Limburger,  331;  Swiss, 

277.     Three  causes  for  in  milk.  25.     In  cheese  due  to  amides,  197. 

Fraser  Hoop. — Bandage,  how  held  in,  181.  Followers  and  fibro.us 
ring   184. 

Glaesler  Cheese.— Cause  of,  283.     Grade  of,  280,  281. 

Health. — Effect  of  rubber  boots  and  wet  floors  on,  42. 

Helmer. — Automatic  pressure  press,  181. 

Hoops— Do  not  pound,  189.  For  Edam,  253.  For  flats,  259.  Fraser, 
181.     Number  required,  258.     Wilson,  187. 

Hydrochloric  Acid.— Use  of  in  Cottage  cheese,  370. 


200  Cheese  Making. 

Judging  Cheese.— Color,  219.  Corky  cheese,  222.  Cracked,  225.  Eng- 
lish standard,  221.  Flavor,  216.  Gross  appearance,  217  Hard  and 
crumbly,  223.  How  sample  is  taken,  215.  Poison,  226.  Salt,  218. 
Rusty  spots,  227.  Swiss,  281.  Texture,  217.  Weak  bodied  or 
pasty,  224.  Wisconsin  Cheese  Makers'  Standard,  221.  Wisconsin 
Dairymen's  Standard,  215. 

Kettles.— For  Swiss  cheese,  287.     How  filled,  288.     Wooden  brake,  294. 

Lactometers.— Board  of  Health,  65.     Quevenne,   64. 

LiMBURGER  Cheese.— Characteristics  of,  331.  Curing,  339.  Draining 
curd,  336,  337.  Origin  of,  330.  Quality  of  milk  required,  332.  Salt- 
ing, 338.  Setting  milk  and  cooking  curd,  334,  335.  Shipping,  340. 
Utensils  used,  333. 

Marketing  Cheese.— Brick,  328.  Cheddar,  208.  Cottage,  371.  Edam, 
361.     Limburger,  340.     Swiss,  308,  309. 

Milk.— Absorption  of  flavors  in,  27:  Aeration  of,  26,  33.  Bacterial  in- 
fection of,  28.  Care  of,  32.  Cause  of  souring,  28.  Composition  of, 
2.  Cooling  of,  37.  Constituents  of  in  curd  and  whey,  16.  Effect  of 
food  upon,  26.  Fore  and  strippings,  analysis  of,  23.  How  lifted, 
261.  Man's  use  of,  3.  Purpose  of,  1.  Quality  required  for  brick, 
313,  314.  Secretion  of,  23.  Specific  gravity  of,  64.  Three  causes  of 
bad  flavors  in,  25.     Time  of  secretion,  24.  Varieties  of  bacteria  in,  29. 

Moisture  in  Air  of  Curing  Room.— Brick,  325.  Cheddar,  201,  204. 
Limburger,  339.  Swiss,  303.  Measure  for,  202,  203.  Supply,  205. 
Regulation  of^jn  Cottage  cheese,  368. 

Niszler  Cheese.— Cause  of,  280.     Grade  of,  281. 

Paraffine. — Use  of  for  coating  cheese,  214. 

Para  Casein.— Cheese  curing,  197. 

Peptones — 197. 

Pin-Holey  Curds. — How  caused,  144.     Treatment  of,  144,  165,  166. 

Poison  Cheese. — How  caused,  226. 

Presses.— Helmer,  181.  Required,  258.  Sprague,  181.  Tightening  the, 
185.     Upright,   181. 

Pressing  Cheese.— Block  Swiss,  299.  Brick.  323.  Drum  Swiss,  298. 
Edam,  354,  355.  Limburger,  337.  Packages  used,  181.  Tempera- 
ture for,   179,  180. 

Racks. — How  made,  140.     How  used,  141.     Turning  curd  on,   143. 

Records. — Form  for,  196. 

Rennet. — Action  dependent  on  three  factors.  81.  A  powerful  agent,  83. 
Effect  of  acid  on,  79.  Effect  of  heat  on,  77.  Extract  brands  to  be 
preferred,  76;  how  prepared,  75;  not  alike,  80,  110.  For  fast  and 
slow  curing  cheese,  118.  Inexhaustible,  78.  Quantity  required  for 
brick  cheese,  315.     Should  be  diluted,  119.     Source  of,  74. 


Analytical  Index.  201 

Rennet  Action.— Effect  of  acid  and  alkali  on,  92;  of  anaesthetics  on,  96; 
of  boracic  acid  on,  100;  formaline  on,  100;  salt  on,  94;  strength  of 
rennet  on,  98;  temperature  on,  81,  95;  of  watered  milk  on,  92. 
Soluble  calcium  salts  required  for,  99.  Thermal  destruction  point 
of,  97. 

Rennet  Test. — Discovered  by  Harris,  82.  Errors  to  be  avoided  with 
Marschall  test,  90.  For  Edam,  351.  Glass  graduates  for,  84.  Mar- 
schall  tests  vary,  89.  Of  milk  for  brick  cheese,  314.  Practical  ap- 
plication of,  110,  111.     The  Marschall  test,  87.     The  Monrad  test,  85. 

Rusty  Spots. — Description  of,  etc.,  227. 

Salt. — Amount  required,  172,  173.  Chemical  composition  of,  168.  Con- 
sidered in  judging,  218.  Effect  upon  cheese,  171,  172.  How  applied, 
174,  175.     How  tested,  170.     Impurities  in.  170.     Where  obtained,  169. 

Salting  the  Curd. — Brick,  318,  324.  Condition  of  curd  for,  167.  Edam, 
357.  Limburger,  338.  Swiss  cheese,  in  brine,  301;  with  dry  salt,  302. 
Temperature  for,  176. 

Scale  Boards. — For  Cheddar  cheese,  207. 

Scale  Pepsin.— Substitute  for  rennet.  73,  120. 

Score  Cards.— For  Cheddar  cheese,  215,  220. 

Setting  the  Milk.— Brick,  316;  for  Cheddar  cheese.  118;  Cottage,  368; 
Edam,  351;  Limburger,  334;  Swiss,  289.     Temperature  for,  118. 

Shrinkage. — In  curing,  212.     Septic  tank,  251. 

Sink. — For  washing,  how  made.  260. 

Solids  of  Milk. — Not  fat,  2;  total,  2. 

Sprague. — Automatic  adjustable  gang  press,  181. 

Starter. — Definition  of,  112.  For  Brick  cheese,  314;  Edam,  345:  Swiss, 
285.     How  to  select  one,  113,  115.     Lactic  ferment,  114. 

Stirring  the  Curd.— How  done,  J32,  292.  295.     On  racks,  162.     Uten- 
'    sils  for,  133,  134.     Why  done,  129 

Sub-earth  Ducts. — Electric  fans  for,  244.  Number  and  size  of  tiles, 
245.     Principle  of,  243.     Use  of  a  well  for,  244. 

Sugar  of  Milk. — Character  of,  9.     Use  of  in  medicine  and  as  food,  9. 

Sweet  Curd. — Kinds,  273. 

Swiss  Cheese.— Blind,  280.  Block  and  drum,  275.  Block  Swiss,  304. 
Boxing,  309,  310.  Cellars  required.  306.  Characteristics,  273.  Color, 
279.  Cutting  curd  for',  289-293.  Description  of.  275.  Eyes,  278. 
Flavor,  277.  Glaeslers,  283.  Grades  of,  280,  281.  Handling  on 
shelves,  305,  307.  How  tried.  281.  Kettles  for,  287.  Length  of 
curing  period,  308.  Niszler,  281.  Quality,  how  determined,  276. 
Rennet  test  for,  284.  Salting  of,  302.  Selection  of  milk  for,  282. 
Setting  milk  for,  289.  Starting  eyes,  303.  Texture,  278.  Use  of 
starter  for,  285.     Where  made,  274. 


202  Cheese  Making. 

Temperature. — Different  degrees  of  for  curing,  198.  For  cooking- 
Brick,  316;  Cheddar,  131.  Cottage,  369;  Edam,  351;  Limburger,  355; 
Swiss,  295.  For  curing— Brick,  325;  Cheddar,  198,  199;  Edam,  360; 
Limburger,  339;  Swiss,  303,  306.     For  Rennet  test,  85. 

Testing  Milk. — Apparatus  for,  262.  Babcock  test,  54.  Committee  for, 
268.  Composite  sample,  67.  Detecting  watered  milk,  66.  Rapid 
progress  in,  53.     Sampling  tube,  68. 

Texture— Of  Brick  cheese,  312,  313.  327;  Cheddar,  217;  Edam,  342; 
Limburger,  331;  Swiss,  278. 

Tyrotoxicon. — In  poison  cheese,  226. 

Udder. — Structure  of,  22. 

Utensils. — Brick  cheese  draining  boards,  321.  Draining  table,  320. 
Molds,  319.  Curd  rakes,  133,  134.  Curd  sink,  147.  148.  Herrick's 
curd  cutter,  142.  Horizontal  curd  knife,  124.  Hygroscope,  202. 
Kind  and  care  of,  39,  40.  Perpendicular  curd  knife,  127.  Psychrome- 
ter,  203.  Scrubbing  brushes,  etc.,  45.  Swiss  curd  stirrer,  292.  Swiss 
harp,  290.     Wooden  kettle  brake,  294. 

Vats.— Size  of,  256.     How  lined,  257. 

Washing  Cheese. — In  cold  storage,  193. 

Washing  Curd,  145. 

Weak  Bodied  Cheese. — Cause  of,  135,  150. 

Weighing  Cheese.— Cheddar,  208.     Weights,  how  marked,  209,  210. 

Whey. — Butter,  311.  Composition  of,  17,  18.  From  Swiss  cheese,  20. 
How  elevated,  254.     Loss  of  fat  in,  19.     Tanks,  253. 

Young  Americas. — How  boxed,  206.     Size  of,  181. 


Elements  of  Dairying 

IS    AN    ILLUSTRATED    BOOK    BY   THE 
SAME  AUTHOR  AS  "CHEESE  MAKING" 


The   subjects   treated   in   the   eleven  chapters  are 
as  follows: 

I.  Historical  and  Introductory. 

II.  The  Secretion  of  Milk. 

III.  Water  and  Solids  of  Milk. 

IV.  Milk  Fat. 

V.  Milk  Solids  not  Fat. 

VI.  The  Physical  Properties  of  Milk. 

VII.  Butter  and  Cheese. 

VIII.  Contamination  of  Milk. 

IX.  Testing  Cows, 

X.  Market  Milk. 

XL  Dairy  Refrigeration. 

IT  IS  PUBLISHED  BY  THE  AUTHOR  . 

Any  Dairy  Supply   House    or    Book    Dealer    can   furnish 
it   (post  paid)   for  $1.00. 


This  book  is  a  preservation  facsimile. 

It  is  made  in  compliance  with  copyright  law 

and  produced  on  acid-free  archival 

60#  book  weight  paper 

which  meets  the  requirements  of 

ANSI/NISO  Z39.48-1992  (permanence  of  paper) 


Preservation  facsimile  printing  and  binding 

by 

Acme  Bookbinding 

Charlestown,  Massachusetts 


2006 


